405 


i-NRLF 


*B   73 


UST  BATED. 


GIFT  ©F 
Proi*    E.J.ftickson 


THE 


HOME    FLORIST: 


A  TREATISE  ON  THE 


CULTIVATION,  MANAGEMENT  AND  ADAPTABILITY 


OF 


FLOWERING  AND  ORNAMENTAL  PLANTS, 


DESIGNED    FOR    THE    USE    OF 


AMATEUR    FLORISTS. 


BY    ELIAS    A.    LONG. 

\\ 


ILL  USTRA  TED. 


BUFFALO,  N.  Y. 
LONG      BROTHERS. 

1874. 


U 


y 


MAIM  LlMRAKY-AGUkCULTUHE  DEPT. 


Entered  according  to  Act  of  Congress,  in  the  year  1874,  by  Long  Bro's,  in  the  office  of  the  Librarian  of 

Congress,  at  Washington. 


PRESS    OF 

MATTHEWS  &  WARREN, 
BUFFALO,  N.   Y. 


526673 


CONTENTS. 


PAGE. 

Introduction, 3 

Do  Plants  Poison  the  Air  we  Breathe,   .     .     4 
Notes   on   Landscape  Gardening  Adapted 

to  Common  Practice, 5 

What  is  Desirable  in  a  Place,    ...     5 
A  few  Things  to  be  Avoided,    ...     6 

Planning  the  Work, 6 

Grading  and  Leveling, 7 

The  Lawn  and  Tree  Planting,   ...     8 

Sodding, .     9 

Walks  and  Drives,       ......     9 

Designs  for  Flower  Beds  on  the  Lawn,     9 

Open  Air  Floriculture, 10 

Planting  in  Masses  of  Color,     .     .     .10 

Ribbon  Gardening, 10 

Planting  Mixed  Borders  and  Beds,      .    1 1 
Flower  Beds  for  Constant  Cutting,      .    1 1 
The  Soil :    Its  Preparation  and  Treat- 
ment,     12 

Sowing  Seeds, 12 

Hot-Beds,    Cold-Frames,    and    Seed- 

Beds, 13 

Transplanting, 13 

Summer  Culture, 14 

Preparatory  Treatment  of  Plants  De- 
signed for  Winter  Flowering,      .      .14 
Watering  Plants,  The  Lawn,  etc.,  in 

Summer, 14 

Autumn  Planting  of  Hyacinth,  Tulips, 

and  other  Hardy  Bulbs,    ,     .     .     .14 
Taking    up    Plants    from    the    Open 

Ground  in  the  Fall, 15 

Simple  Instructions  for  Propagating  from 

Cuttings  and  Layers, 15 

1  langing  Baskets  and  Garden  Vases,     .     .17 

Culture  and  Treatment, 17 

Select   List   of    Trailers   suitable    for 

Baskets,  Vases,  Trellises,  etc.,   .     .18 

Plant  Culture  in  and  about  the  House,       .    19 

Open  Air  Window  Boxes,    .     .     .     .19 

Plant  Culture  in  Winter,       .     .     .     .19 

The  Winter  Quarters, 20 

Temperature,    Selection    of    Suitable 

Plants,  Protection,  etc.,     ....   20 
General  Directions  for    Indoor    Plant 

Management, 20 

Culture  of  Hyacinths  and  other  Hardy 
Bulbs  in  Glasses,  Pots,  etc.,  for 
Winter  Decoration,  .  21 


PAGE 

Fei-neries  and  Wardian  Cases,      .     .     .     .21 

The  Amateur's  Conservatory,       ....   22 

Utility  of  a  Conservatory,     ....   22 

Plans  and  Approximate  Cost,    ...   23 

Winter  Management,        24 

Summer  Management, 24 

Propagation, 24 

Insects,  etc., 24 

Cold  Pits  for  Winter  Protection,       .     .     .24 

The  Rose  Family, 25 

Hardy  Roses, 26 

Hybrid  Perpetual  Roses,       ....   26 
June,  or  Summer  Roses,       ....   26 

Hardy  Climbing  Roses, 26 

Moss  Roses, 26 

Varieties  of  Hardy  Roses,    ....  26 

Tender  Roses  (monthly), 28 

Bourbon  Roses, 28 

Bengal,  or  China  Roses,       ....   28 

Tea- Scented  Roses, 28 

Noisette  Roses, 29 

Varieties  of  Tender  Roses,   ....   29 
Cultivation  and  Management,        .      .      .31 

The  Rosary, 31 

Pruning,        31 

Insects  Injurious  to  Roses,    .     .      .     .31 

Mildew  and  Rust,        31 

Protection  during  Winter,     ....   32 
Roses   for    Pot    Culture    and    Winter 

Blooming, 32 

Descriptions  of  Important  Ornamental  and 
Flowering  Plants,  with  Cultural  Direc- 
tions,   33 

Annuals  :  Their  Characteristic  Habits,   33 
Biennials :  Their  Characteristic  Hab- 
its,   33 

Perennials:  Their  Characteristic  Hab- 
its,    33 

Comparative  Value, 33 

List  of  Plants,  alphabetically  arranged,     34-82 
The  Floricultural  Operations  of  the  year,. 

arranged  by  Weeks, 83 

Improving  Plants  by  Pinching  and  Pruning,   87 
Removal  of  matured  Flowers,      ....  87 

Keep  Plants  Clean,        87 

Convenient  Fertilizers  for  Pot  Plants,    .     .87 
Treatment   of    Plants    that    have   become 
Frozen, 88 


THE  HOME  FLORIST. 


INTRODUCTION. 

rPHE  cultivation  of  plants  for  the  sake  of  their  beautiful  or  fragrant  flowers,  and  for  other 
pleasing  attractions,  has  from  the  earliest  ages  received  attention  wherever  civilization 
has  made  considerable  progress.  Floriculture,  however,  is  an  art  which  is  strikingly  sus- 
ceptible to  influences  of  climate,  soil,  heat,  cold  and  other  conditions,  and  notwithstanding 
its  antiquity,  uniform  and  universal  progression  has  been  impeded  by  reason  of  this  fact. 
Any  experience  and  knowledge  derived  from  the  attainment  of  a  certain  degree  of  perfection 
in  the  art,  during  one  age  or  in  one  country,  when  applied  to  another,  is  practically  useful 
only  to  the  extent  in  which  it  finds  a  state  of  adaptability  in  the  other.  In  our  own 
country  the  cultivation  of  plants  and  flowers  has  only  of  late  years  received  much  attention, 
while  from  the  first  it  has  been  realized  that  a  course  of  floriculture  distinct  from  any 
practiced  in  foreign  countries,  would  be  a  necessity,  and  after  years  of  practical  schooling, 
we  may  claim  to  have  adopted  a  system  which  in  the  fullest  sense  is  American.  It  has 
been  within  the  last  dozen  years,  that  a  general  manifestation  of  interest  in  floriculture, 
by  the  masses  of  people  has  been  appai-ent,  and  from  a  perceptible  awakening  early  in 
this  time,  there  has  been  a  continual  and  rapid  increase,  until  the  present  time,  which  finds 
nearly  everybody  devoting  more  or  less  attention  to  their  culture. 

What  is  felt  to  be  the  greatest  need  of  the  day  is,  the  more  general  dissemination  of 
practical,  useful  knowledge,  for  acquainting  people  with  the  kinds  of  plants  and  flowers  most 
suitable  for  the  American  cultivator,  and  also  their  culture,  all  adapted  to  the  wants  of 
inexperienced  amateurs.  It  is  with  a  realization  of  this  need,  that  the  author  and  publishers 
of  the  present  little  work,  take  pleasure  in  presenting  it  to  the  public,  as  a  book  of  instruc- 
tions, relative  to  the  proper  means  of  managing  plants  for  the  adornment  of  American  homes. 
It  is  designed  to  aid  all  classes  of  cultivators,  but  especially  those  who  aspire  to  the  rearing 
of  a  higher  and  choicer  order  of  plants  and  flowers  than  are  common  in  perhaps  the 
majority  of  homes  where  floriculture  has  been  receiving  attention,  aiming  to  carry  those 
who  adopt  its  teachings,  over  obstacles  which  tend  to  cause  failure  and  discouragement, 
and  to  promote  an  interest  in  every  plant,  bulb,  seed  or  tuber  whose  culture  is  attempted. 

A  good  indication  of  progression  in  American  amateur  floriculture  is  evinced  in  the  fact 
that  people  of  floricultural  taste  are  learning  to  act  upon  the  knowledge  that  more  than  seeds 
alone,  or  bulbs,  or  plants,  are  required  for  beautifying  gardens  and  homes  with  flowers  ;  that 
in  the  best  kept  gardens,  are  used  judicious  selections  of  some  of  each,  with  most  gratifying 
results.  No  matter,  scarcely,  to  how  limited  an  extent  the  culture  of  plants  and  flowers  is 
engaged  in,  it  can  be  more  advantageously  done,  and  becomes  more  interesting,  by  including 
in  the  stock  cultivated,  perennial  greenhouse  and  hardy  plants,  bulbs,  and  tubers,  annual  and  bi- 


THE  HOME  FLORIST. 


ennial  seed-grown  plants — than  by  limiting  the  stock  to  varieties  of  any  one  class.  Where  the 
stock  must  be  purchased  from  the  florist  and  seedsmen,  this  rule  will  hold  good,  with  most  any 
amount  to  be  invested,  no  matter  how  small.  I  have  seen  gardens  where  none  but  annuals  and 
other  seed-grown  plants  were  employed,  which  were  beautiful  and  pleasing  during  the  entire 
summer  season;  and  I  always  advise  persons  who  expend  but  little  for  floral  decorations  to 
depend  largely  on  these  for  their  flowers.  But  where  richness  of  color,  exquisite  fragrance,  and 
strong  contrasts  in  foliage,  are  sought,  some  plants  that  are  propagated  and  sold  from  green- 
houses, and  also  bulbs,  etc.,  are  unapproachably  effective.  Planting  even  a  very  few  Scarlet 
Geraniums,  Lantanas,  Gladiolus,  Heliotropes,  Hyacinths  and  other  hardy  bulbs,  monthly 
Roses,  and  others,  add  to  the  grounds  a  brilliancy  of  color,  and  afford  abundant  daily  bloom, 
from  early  in  the  spring,  until  October,  and  with  many,  even  in  November,  which  find  no  equal 
in  seed-grown  things.  It  is  also  next  to  impossible  to  nicely  stock  a  hanging  basket,  vase  or 
window  box  without  the  use  of  greenhouse  plants. 

New  beginners  at  flower  growing  are  apt,  sometimes,  to  have  over-ambitious  ideas  in  regard 
to  selecting  stock  for  their  first  attempts;  they  invest  largely  in  all  kinds  of  stock  found  in  the 
catalogues  of  their  suppliers,  only  to  regret  the  injudicious  step  when  the  time  of  planting  and 
cultivation  comes.  I  advise  those  making  first  selections  to  begin  by  selecting  vai'ieties  that  are 
easily  grown,  gain  all  the  information  possible  relative  to  the  treatment  they  require,  not  over- 
looking the  important  matters  of  soil,  time  of  sowing,  planting,  etc.,  and  then  give  them 
the  very  best  attention.  A  dozen  choice  plants,  besides  the  production  from  half  a  dozen  pack- 
ets of  flower  seeds,  well  cared  for  will  give  more  real  enjoyment  to  the  cultivator  than  a  hun- 
dred plants  and  other  stock  left  in  a  neglected  condition  to  take  care  of  themselves.  The  most 
careful  new  beginner  is  likely  to  meet  with  little  difficulties  and  drawbacks,  which,  by  unpropi- 
tious  weather,  or  other  causes,  are  to  be  expected  will  attend  floricultural  operations.  In 
these  the  young  florist  who  has  a  love  for  the  work  and  its  fruits  should  find  no  cause  for  being 
discouraged.  The  most  skilled  florist  has  always  something  to  learn  ;  and  no  mistake  will  be 
made  but  you  will  be  wiser  for  it,  and  the  better  prepared  for  future  emergencies.  Suc- 
cess, gained  at  the  expense  of  slight  failures  and  inconveniences,  will  be  enjoyed  the  more  for 
them  afterwards.  After  each  succeeding  season's  experience  you  will  see  the  safety  of  striking 
out  more  boldly  in  purchases  and  plans,  and  each  year  will  place  you  higher  up  that  scale  to 
perfection  which  every  cultivator  of  flowers  aspires  to.  E.  A.  L. 

BUFFALO,  N.  Y.,  October,  1874. 


DO  PLANTS  POISON  THE  AIR  WE  BREATHE.— There  is  a  notion  prevalent  that  the 
presence  of  growing  plants  in  the  sleeping  or  living  room  is  detrimental  to  a  healthy  atmosphere 
by  their  giving  out  poisonous  carbonic  acid  gas  in  the  night  time.  The  investigations  of  chem- 
ists demonstrate  that  growing  plants  do  exhale  an  almost  imperceptible  quantity  of  carbonic  acid 
gas,  which,  in  very  small  proportions,  is  necessary  in  the  air  we  breathe.  They  also  show  that 
the  quantity  exhaled  at  night  is  but  the  one-sixteenth  part  of  what  the  same  plants  absorb  from 
the  atmosphere  during  the  day,  and  convert  into  nearly  its  own  weight  of  oxygen,  thus  render- 
ing a  poisonous  gas,  that  derives  its  origin  from  various  sources,  into  one  of  the  principal  ele- 
ments of  pure  air. 

If  carbonic  acid  gas  is  emitted  from  plants  in  dangerous  quantities,  it  certainly  would  exist 
largely  in  the  night  atmosphere  of  a  close  greenhouse  heated  to  a  tropical  temperature,  and 
crowded  from  floor  to  rafter  with  rank  vegetation.  Yet,  in  my  experience,  I  have  never 
known  the  slightest  ill  effects  to  be  realized  from  night  work  in  greenhouses,  neither  in  cases  that 
have  frequently  occurred  of  workmen  making  the  warm  greenhouses  their  sleeping  quarters  of 
a  night,  and  even  for  an  entire  winter,  which,  to  my  satisfaction,  affords  practical  proof  that  the 
notion  is  a  fallacy  ;  and  the  fact  that  perhaps  no  healthier  class  of  men  can  be  found  than  green- 
house operators,  who  work  constantly  in  an  atmosphere  where  plants  are  growing,  would  prove, 
instead,  that  living  plants  exert  a  beneficial  influence  upon  the  air  we  breathe. 


THE  HOME  FLOP,  1ST; 


NOTES  ON  LANDSCAPE  GARDENING  ADAPTED 
TO  COMMON  PRACTICE. 

As  being  somewhat  distinct  from  laying  out  ornamental  grounds,  parks,  etc.,  of  large  extent, 
the  present  article  is  devoted  to  that  more  limited  branch  of  rural  adornment,  in  which  the 
majority  of  people  outside  of  crowded  districts  in  large  cities  are  interested,  namely :  the 
beautifying  and  improving  of  grounds  of  moderate  extent,  which  lay  adjacent  to  dwellings — the 
planning  of  which  usually  devolves  upon  the  owner  or  occupants  of  the  place.  That  a  marked 
degree  of  incongruity  and  dullness  is  observable  in  the  surroundings  of  the  majority  of  Ameri- 
can homes,  cannot  be  denied,  but  this  arises  far  oftener  from  lack  of  sound  and  useful  informa- 
tion, ignorance  of  correct  principles,  and  through  not  fully  realizing  the  importance  of  thoroughly 
executing  work  of  this  nature,  than  from  want  of  appreciation  of  what  is  tasteful  and  elegant  in 
ornamental  gardening,  in  the  minds  of  the  people. 

What  is  Desirable  in  a  Place.  —To  be  most  delightful,  a  place  of  residence  should 
be  surrounded  with  ground  of  sufficient  area  to  devote  to  ornamental  purposes  of  lawn,  flower 
beds,  walks  and  drives,  and  for  admitting  the  planting  of  shrubbery,  trees,  etc.,  in  groups 
or  singly.  The  area  need  not  be  very  extensive  to  allow  of  this,  and  be  rendered  very 
attractive  and  pleasant,  provided  the  various  parts  are  arranged  in  good  taste,  and  all  operations 
which  contribute  to  their  improvement  and  after  care  are  thoroughly  performed.  In  all  cases 
of  improving  grounds  the  house  should  be  considered  as  the  chief  feature  with  which  we  have 
to  deal,  and  the  chief  point  of  vision  in  a  place.  When  the  house  is  already  standing,  and  the 
grounds  have  been  improved  in  a  measure,  perhaps,  it  may  be  desirable  to  introduce  some  new 
improvements  or  to  remove  or  alter  any  features  which  it  is  shown  are  objectionable ;  while 
with  homes  still  in  contemplation,  we  have  the  advantage  of  being  able  to  arrange  the  various 
features  at  will,  giving  to  each  ample  study  and  forethought,  and  finally  deciding  upon  such  a 
plan  as  combines  the  greatest  number  of  excellencies. 

Largeness  of  extent  is  desirable  in  ornamental  grounds,  but  the  fact  that  everything 
connected  with  constructing  and  maintaining  them  requires  considerable  labor  and  expense, 
should  never  be  lost  sight  of.  In  every  instance  it  would  be  better  to  decide  upon  a  retraction 
of  area,  than  to  attempt  work  on  a  large  scale  with  too  small  an  outlay.  Surroundings  consist- 
ing of  a  fourth  of  an  acre  of  land,  improved  in  the  most  perfect  manner,  will  be  infinitely  more 
satisfactory  and  enjoyable  to  the  owner  than  a  half  or  whole  acre,  with  the  same  amount  of 
labor  and  expense  bestowed  upon  their  improvement.  There  is  such  a  thing,  too,  as  augmenting 
the  appearance  of  extent,  in  a  place,  be  it  large  or  small,  and  it  would  be  well  for  all  to  study 
the  subject  who  are  interested  in  this  matter.  A  garden — no  matter  what  its  size  may  be — will 
always  look  meagre  in  breadth  without  a  good  open  lawn,  and  one  broad  glade  of  grass  at  least 
should,  therefore,  stretch  from  the  best  windows  of  the  house  to  within  a  short  distance  of  the 
boundary,  at  the  farthest  point,  if  the  place  .be  small,  with  as  little  interruption  from  walks, 
trees  or  other  objects  as  possible.  Harmony  of  parts  and  simplicity  of  arrangement  also  main- 
tain the  idea  of  size,  for  where  everything  is  linked  together  to  form  a  united  whole,  there  will 
be  none  of  that  division  of  interest  which  tends  to  make  a  place  appear  still  smaller.  A  place 
that  is  laid  out  in  a  formal  manner — in  the  geometrical  style — where  all  walks,  flower  beds  and 
plantings  are  arranged  with  a  degree  of  regularity,  in  which  the  various  lines  and  parts  bear  a 
geometric  relation  to  each  other,  will,  unless  very  extensive,  always  look  smaller  than  it  really 
is,  and  very  much  less  than  one  treated  in  a  more  irregular  and  natural  way.  Where  the  space 
will  at  all  justify  it,  the  walks,  shrubs,  flower  beds,  etc.,  should  be  so  disposed  of  as  to  afford  as 
many  different  views  as  possible.  Walks,  in  which  graceful  and  easy  curves  are  introduced,  are 
more  pleasing  than  if  made  entirely  straight,  especially  in  small  places,  as  straight  walks  or  any 
straight  lines  require  length  to  show  them  to  advantage. 

Trees  and  shrubs  should  be  located  mostly  in  groups  at  various  points  about  the  grounds — 
making  the  plantings  heavier  next  the  boundary  fences — in  preference  to  the  style  of  planting 
in  straight  lines,  parallel  with  the  walks.  The  projections,  made  by  curves  in  the  walks  and  the 
points  formed  by  angles,  are  suitable  for  accommodating  groups,  and  these  may  extend  back  from 
the  walk  somewhat,  but  the  inner  points  should  be  limited  to  such  a  distance  as  will  keep  the  center 
of  the  grass  plat  open.  It  will  be  alloAvable,  however,  even  in  a  small  place,  to  plant  here  and 
there  a  small  irregular  group,  or  a  single  tree  or  shrub,  which  is  notable  for  its  fine  form  and 
appearance,  while  in  large  plans,  with  extended  areas  in  lawn,  large  groups  may  be  set  with 
a  view  to  breaking  the  distance  and  opening  new  scenes  or  parts  in  the  grounds. 

Flower  beds  are  most  effective  if  located  in  outward  bends,  formed  by  walks,  or  in  chaste, 
well-balanced  designs  across  the  walk  and  opposite  a  bay  or  other  window  of  the  dwelling,  or 
arranged,  either  as  borders  or  else  as  numerous  small  beds,  of  round  or  other  forms,  on  each  side 
of  walks,  or  at  distant  points  across  the  lawn,  to  be  viewed  from  the  dwelling  or  street,  and  in 
other  similar  places.  Sometimes  an  excellent  effect  is  created  by  making  them  in  the  line  of 
the  walk,  with  the  walk  passing  on  each  side,  as  shown  in  Fig.  14. 

Where  there  is  an  opportunity  of  connecting  a  lawn  with  a  closely  fed  meadow  or  pasture 
lot,  which  is  almost  on  the  same  level,  separating  the  two  by  means  of  a  wire  fence  or  a  sunk 


7Y/41  HOME  FLORIST. 


fence,  constructed  in  a  depression,  either  natural  or  artificial,  a  place  will  be  much  enlarged  in 
appearance.  Trees  may  be  planted  in  such  a  meadow,  which  will  impart  to  it  a  park-like 
character. 

It  is  frequently  possible  to  keep  some  object  outside  the  grounds  in  view  from  a  principal 
window  or  garden  seat,  and  where,  from  its  attractiveness,  it  may  seem  desirable  to  do  so,  the 
planting  of  trees  should  be  done  to  effect  this.  It  may  be  a  neigh- 
boring village,  a  distant  mountain  peak,  or  a  steeple,  or  some  edifice 
possessing  an  air  of  romance,  and,  perhaps,  the  plantings  may  be  so 
arranged  as  to  give  it  a  beautiful  setting  between  the  trees,  as  it  were. 
By  Fig.  I  it  will  be  seen  how,  if  a  desirable  view  is  in  the  direction 
of  A,  the  trees  should  be  planted  on  each  side  of  the  line  of  vision, 
to  keep  the  object  in  sight.  Sometimes  an  object  in  some  direction 
possesses  an  offensive  appearance,  making  it  desirable  to  shut  it  from 
sight.  In  the  same  figure  we  will  suppose  such  is  the  case  in  the 
direction  of  B.  It  is  plainly  noticeable  how  trees  can  be  thrown 
across  the  line  of  vision  to  entirely  hide  the  object.  For  this  latter 
purpose,  evergreens  are  to  be  preferred,  because  of  their  being  continu-  \  %1 

ally  in  foliage.  Fig.  I. 

A  few  Things  to  be  Avoided. — In  the  first  place  let  me  say,  avoid  attempting  too 
much  by  applying  the  labor  and  expense  necessary  to  put  a  place  of  certain  size  in  order  to  one 
of  twice  or  three  times  the  size,  and  consequently  doing  the  work  only  one-half  or  one-third 
as  well. 

Simplicity  is  a  prime  element  in  beauty,  and  nothing  can  be  more  objectionable,  in  small 
places  especially,  than  intricacy  of  design,  or  the  prevalence  of  an  air  of  ostentation.  Avoid 
crowding  numerous  flower  beds  or  groups  of  shrubs  or  trees  about  the  lawn,  especially  if  it  be 
a  small  one. 

In  deciding  upon  a  plan  for  your  place,  avoid  the  two  extremes  of  exposing  it  too  much,  or 
of  rendering  it  too  secluded  by  planting  too  many,  especially  of  large  growing  trees.  Errors 
are  frequently  committed  in  planting  Hardy  Evergreen  and  Deciduous  trees,  by  not  taking  "one 
long  look  ahead."  Many  instances  have  come  under  my  observation  where  Norway  Spruce, 
Pines,  or  other  trees,  which,  with  age,  grow  to  large  size,  have  been  planted  while  small  close 
to  walks,  or  perhaps  the  fence,  house  or  other  trees,  in  groups,  without  calculating  for  their 
future  growth  or  spread.  Such  mistakes  are  not  so  evident  to  the  planter  while  the  trees  are 
young,  but  after  some  years  of  growth,  and  after  it  is  too  late  to  remedy  the  matter,  they 
encroach  upon  the  walks  or  house  or  injure  other  trees,  which  it  is  now  also  noticeable  where 
planted  too  close. 

Planting  ornamental  trees  is  a  work  requiring  forethought,  and  it  is  not  altogether  for  the 
present  immediate  effect  that  it  is  done,  but  for  time  far  distant  as  well,  and  one  needs  to  have 
the  full-grown  form,  size  and  appearance  in  his  mind's  eye  at  the  time  of  planting,  if  he  would 
avoid  making  blunders  which  never  can  be  corrected. 

Never  locate  walks  and  drives  unless  there  -is  either  a  real  or  apparent  need  of  them. 
They  may  lead  to  a  flower  bed  in  the  lawn  or  to  a  seat  or  arbor,  or  be  carried  through  the  out- 
skirts of  the  grounds,  but  there  should  always  be  a  meaning  connected  with  their  existence — • 
some  objects  of  interest  in  close  proximity  to  them,  or  to  be  seen  from  various  points  along 
their  course.  A  writer  of  note  has  well  said  that  "a  walk  leading  nowhere  and  ending  in 
nothing  is  never  satisfactory."  A  practice  which  should  never  be  allowed  in  walks  and  drives 
is  for  two  bays  or  two  projections  on  the  same  side  to  be  seen  at  once.  Use  curves,  as  many  as 
may  be  desired,  but  no  serpent-like  twistings.  Avoid,  however,  making  the  curves  too  short ; 
they  should  be  fair  and  continuous,  and  reasonably  direct,  otherwise  in  a  roadway  a  horse 
drawing  a  carriage  would  be  likely  to  shave  projections  and  avoid  the  indentations,  and  the 
track  of  the  wheels  would  soon  show  the  fault  of  the  design. 

In  this  country,  where  we  are  subject  to  severe  dry  spells  almost  every  summer,  terraces 
(earth  thrown  up  above  the  common  surface,  and  made  uniformly  level,  usually,)  should,  as  a 
rule,  be  avoided,  unless  means  are  at  hand  for  watering  the  grass  growing  upon  them  whenever 
necessary.  The  same  might  be  said  of  rockeries,  unless  they  can  be  constructed  in  a  shady 
situation,  or  where  they  can  be  readily  sprinkled  in  dry  weather. 

The  introduction  of  miscellaneous  ornaments  about  gardens,  such  as  statuary,  groups  of 
stones,  artificial  basins  of  water,  or  other  objects  of  similar  nature,  should  be  undertaken  with 
caution,  for  although  there  are  places  in  which  these  may  be  desirable,  yet  it  is  easy  to  have 
more  than  are  compatible  with  correct  taste.  A  vase  filled  with  vigorous  plants  seldom  appears 
out  of  place. 

Planning  the  Work. — The  best  time  to  avoid  the  bad  effects  which  naturally  arise 
from  a  poor  arrangement  of  ornamental  grounds,  is  before  the  work  is  commenced.  How  this 
may  be  clone,  is,  by  making  an  outline  plan  of  the  grounds  to  be  improved,  upon  paper,  locating 
existing  objects,  such  as  the  dwelling,  outhouses,  trees  that  may  be  standing  on  the  grounds,  the 
highway,  etc.,  in  their  correct  position  on  the  map,  and  then,  with  a  pencil,  do  the  planning 
throughout  upon  this,  until  a  satisfactory  plan  has  been  arrived  at,  which  can  be  transferred  to 
the  grounds  in  parts,  as  the  work  of  improving  goes  on.  It  does  not  require  much  skill  to 


THE  HOME  FLORIST. 


draw  the  necessary  map  for  this  purpose,  as  the  grounds  or  their  outlines  serve  to  guide  the 
making  of  it,  and  with  a  pencil,  rubber,  and  foot-rule  (with  the  inch  and  the  divisions  of  the 
inch  marked  upon  it)  you  can  get  along  well  enough,  as  regards  drawing  instruments.  First 
measure  each  boundary  with  a  measuring  tape — or  a  ten-foot  pole  will  do  (land  surveyors  would 
use  a  Gunter's  chain,  but  the  tape  or  pole  will  answer  for  ordinary  use  quite  as  well),  represent- 
ing each  in  its  relative  position  on  the  paper,  by  a  line  reduced  to  a  certain  scale — say  an  inch, 
or  any  division  of  the  inch,  to  represent  ten  feet  on  the  ground  ;  then  measure  the  distance  the 
house  and  other  objects  are  from  the  boundary  line,  and  from  each  other,  locating  each  correctly 
on  the  map,  by  measurement  with  the  scale  adopted  for  the  boundary  lines.  Being  these,  and 
the  boundary  lines  are  objects,  which  will  not  be  changed  in  the  design,  their  outlines  may  be 
drawn  with  ink  on  the  map,  to  prevent  their  being  erased  by  subsequently  using  the  rubber. 
The  map  is  now  ready  for  locating  the  various  features  to  be  introduced  into  the  plan;  this 
should  be  done  with  a  lead  pencil,  to  allow  of  erasing  and  changing  as  often  as  may  be  neces- 
sary, until  a  plan  is  found  which  seems  best  suited  to  the  place  and  to  your  wants.  Everything 
should  be  drawn  by  the  adopted  scale  of  measurement,  and  located  in  its  correct  position,  so 
that  it  can  easily  be  transferred  to  the  ground,  by  measuring,  when  operations  are  under  way. 
Occasionally,  as  the  work  of  planning  progresses,  each  feature  should  be  viewed  from  various 
directions,  by  holding  the  upper  surface  of  the  paper  nearly  in  line  with  the  eye ;  this  will  give 
a  better  view  of  them,  as  they  will  appear  on  the  grounds,  than  when  seen  by  looking  in  a 
perpendicular  line  down  upon  the  paper.  The  reason  of  this  is  obvious,  when  we  cons'  ;1~r  that 
objects  upon  a  landscape  or  garden  are  viewed,  in  this  way  the  beholder  standing  upon  the  level 
of  the  grounds,  and  not  above  them. 

It  is  well  to  make  several  maps,  and  draw  a  different  plan  upon  each,  thus  securing  the 
means  of  making  comparisons,  and  choosing  the  one  which  combines  the  greatest  number  of 
good  points.  Fac-similes  of  the  first  map  are  easily  produced  for  this  purpose,  by  laying  this 
one  on  top  of  half-a-dozen  or  less  .papers  of  the  same  size,  and  then  thrusting  the  point  of  a  thin 
pin-like  instrument  down  through  the  papers  at  the  corners  of  all  angles,  and  the  various  points 
on  the  map.  This  will  leave  distinct  marks  on  each  paper,  which  will  serve  to  guide- 
drawing  the  lines  for  making  each  a  fac-simile  of  the  upper  one.  Too  great  care  cannot  be 
taken  in  making  various  plans  and  in  finally  deciding  upon  one,  and  any  inconsideratenesss  in 
these  respects  may  be  the  source  of  regret  afterwards.  This  is  work  for  the  leisure  hours  of  winter, 
and  it  should  be  engaged  in  early  enough,  so  that  each  and  all  distinct  features  that  suggest 
themselves,  may  be  deliberately  pondered  over  and  studied  in  their  relation  to  the  whole 
design,  for,  bear  in  mind,  when  a  plan  is  once  fully  decided  upon,  and  the  work  of  completion 
executed,  it  is  done  for  a  long  time  distant  in  the  future,  and  will  stand  as  a  monument,  pointing 
either  to  the  wise  and  deliberate  or  to  the  reckless  action  of  the  projector. 


Fig.  2.     Arranging  Stakes  to  facilitate  Grading. 

Grading  and  Leveling. — After  the  plan  has  been  completed,  the  work  of  grading 
the  surface,  which  if  generally  more  or  less  uneven,  is  first  in  order  if  it  has  not  been  done  pre- 
viously. Grading  is  one  of  the  distinguishing  features  of  a  complete  garden,  and  if  nice  and 
evenly  done,  does  more  to  give  to  grounds,  otherwise  well  improved,  a  finished  appearance 
than  any  other  one  operation.  The  lawn  if  properly  made  will  then  present  the  appearance 
of  a  carpet  of  velvety  green,  and  flower  beds,  shrubs  and  trees  will  stand  in  delight- 
ful relief  above  the  surface.  The  propriety  of  preserving  natural  undulations,  or  attempting 
artificial  variety  of  surface  in  moderate  sized  or  small  grounds,  is  always  questionable;  although 
in  large  grounds  planted  in  irregular  style  these,  if  softly  and  appropriately  finished  off,  may  be 
made  to  improve  the  general  appearance  of  the  grounds.  The  work  of  grading  is  commenced 
by  passing  over  the  grounds  and  leveling,  being  guided  only  by  the  eye  ;  all  elevations  should  be 
plowed  up,  and  the  ground  from  them  should  be  hauled  or  scraped  into  the  depressions  which 
may  exist.  It  should,  however,  be  observed  that  at  least  six  inches  of  good  soil  overlay  the 
Avhole  in  all  places,  and  where  any  considerable  hills  are  removed,  sufficient  subsoil  is  also  to  be 
removed  to  be  replaced  with  top  soil  to  this  depth.  Wherever  walks  and  drives  are  to  come, 
the  ground  may  now  be  excavated  to  a  proper  depth  for  filling  in  with  the  road  material,  and 
be  used  in  low  places.  When  this  rough  grading  is  completed,  drains  should  be  laid  wherever 
necessary,  after  which  the  work  should  be  planned  for  finishing  the  grading  to  a  nicety,  and  to 
do  this  it  will  be  necessary  to  set  guide  stakes  in  rows  across  the  grounds,  driven  down  so  that 
the  heads  be  in  line,  and  exactly  marking  where  the  new  surface  is  to  come.  To  accom- 
plish driving  the  guide  stakes  so  that  the  heads  will  thus  be  in  line  I  shall  presently  explain. 
If  a  heavy  rain  can  be  had  on  the  grounds  before  the  work  at  this  stage  is  advanced,  it  will 
be  all  the  better,  otherwise  it  will  become  necessary,  with  the  finishing  work,  to  leave  the 
ground  sufficiently  elevated  wherever  filling  in  of  low  places  was  done,  to  allow  for  what  the 


THE  HOME  FLORIST. 


•„  AC 


loose  earth  will  settle.  In  Fig.  3  we  will  suppose  the  ground  on  each  side  of  the  dwelling 
slants  away  towards  the  boundaries.  The  first  step  to  take  towards 
setting  the  stakes  for  guiding  the  work  of  final  grading  is  to  pass 
along  the  boundary  and  drive  a  stake  at  each  corner  of  the  lot  to  a 
depth  so  that  the  head  is  at  the  desired  height  for  the  to  be  grade 
in  each  place.  Then  drive  four  corresponding  stakes  also  to 
a  depth  at  which  the  head  will  indicate  the  desired  surface  when 
completed,  around  the  dwelling,  setting  each  far  enough  from  the 
corner  to  enable  sighting  from  it  to  the  next  one  to  it  on  all  sides  of 
the  dwelling.  After  this,  stakes  are  to  be  set  in  rows  across  each 
section  or  slant  of  the  grounds  to  guide  the  leveling ;  but,  as  this  can 
only  be  done  over  one  part  at  a  time,  we  will  illustrate  how  to  pro- 
ceed by  directing  the  reader  through  each  step  of  setting  the  stakes 
on  the  wide  plot  of  ground  laying  to  the  left  of  the  house  in  Fig. 
3.  Let  us  suppose  that  the  line  b  in  Fig.  2  represents  the  surface 
between  the  corner  stakes  driven  at  A  b  and  A  c  in  the  upper  part  of 
Fig.  3,  and  that  the  stakes  shown  at  each  end  of  this  sectional  cut, 
with  their  heads  to  line  (7,  are  these  two  corner  stakes  (A  b,  A  c, 
Fig.  3).  Now  drive  a  stake  at  the  side  of  each  of  these  stakes, 
but  with  the  heads,  we  will  say  exactly,  18  inches  above  them.  These  stakes  are  for 
the  purpose  of  sighting  over  to  place  three  or  five  or  more  stakes  between  the  two  corner  ones. 
One  person  should  sight  while  another  drives  the  stakes;  the  former  observing  and  directing  the 
depth  they  are  to  be  driven.  This  sighting  is  illustrated  in  Fig.  2.  After  these  intermediate 
stakes  are  set,  another  stake  should  be  driven  at  the  side  of  each,  with  the  top  18  inches 
lower  than  top  of  the  sighting  stake,  which  it  is  obvious  will, bring  the  heads  of  them  in  line 
with  the  corner  stakes  just  driven,  as  is  shown  by  dotted  line  C  in  Fig.  2,  which  is  the  line  of 
the  desired  grade.  We  next  proceed  with  the  sighting  and  staking  operation  along  the  bound- 
ary, from  the  upper  corner  stake  A  b  to  the  lower  corner  stake  A  b,  and  also  from  A  c  to  A  c, 
driving  the  same  number  of  stakes  on  each,  although  line  A  b  A  b  is  much  longer  than  the 
other.  The  distance  they  are  to  be  apart  on  each  line  may  be  arrived  at  by  guess,  as  it  is  not 
material  that  they  be  exactly  the  same  distance  apart.  A  good  way  is  to  set  one  at  what  would 
be  taken  as  half  way  between  the  corner  stakes,  and  then  dividing  the  distance  to  the  corner  on 
each  side  in  the  same  way,  and  so  on  until  enough  have  been  placed,  being  certain,  however, 
that  the  same  number  are  on  each  line.  After  this  is  done,  crosslines  of  sighting  and  guide 
stakes  are  to  be  run  from  each  stake  in  line  A  b  A  b  to  the  corresponding  stake  in  line  A  c  A  c, 
in  the  manner  described  in  my  reference  to  Fig.  2,  commencing  at  one  end  of  the  plot.  The 
other  quarter  sections  around  the  house  are  each  in  turn  to  be  laid  out  in  the  manner  I  have 
described,  after  which  the  work  of  leveling  may  finally  be  completed.  With  these  stakes  at 
ten,  fifteen  or  twenty  feet  apart  each  way,  it  is  easy  to  grade  the  earth  evenly  between  them. 
With  the  completion  of  grading  and  the  removal  of  the  stakes,  we  are  brought  to  making  walks 
and  drives,  and  sowing  the  lawn,  each  of  which  are  considered  in  a  separate  article. 

The  Lawn  and  Tree  ^Planting. — A  good  lawn,  clean  and  well  kept,  one  which 

presents  a  lively  green  appearance,  from  early  in  the  spring  until  cold  weather,  is  a  sight  worth 
witnessing,  and  one  well  worth  expending  some  labor  and  money  upon  to  obtain.  After  the 
ground  is  shaped  to  the  desired  grade,  as  described  above,  then  the  whole  should  be  thoroughly 
plowed,  a  sub-soil  following  in  the  wake  of  the  common  plow  until  it  is  thoroughly  pulverized. 
The  soil  from  the  first  furrow  made  in  plowing  will  be  thrown  above  the^ommon  level,  and 
after  the  piece  is  overturned  this  should  be  drawn  or  wheeled  into  the  open  furrow  left  by  the 
plow  in  finishing,  that  all  may  become  even  again.  A  heavy  harrow  should  then  be  applied 
until  the  surface  is  thoroughly  fined  down.  It  may  now  be  noticed  by  the  careful  eye  that  slight 
undulations  still  exist  here  and  there  about  the  grounds ;  these  can  be  leveled  with  a  shovel  or 
hoe.  All  stones,  roots,  etc. ,  should  also  be  removed  so  that  a  smooth  surface  may  be  obtained  ; 
these  will  be  found  useful  for  filling,  in  making  walks  and  drives.  To  facilitate  the  work  of 
tree  planting,  which  next  should  receive  attention,  small  stakes  should  be  set  at  the  points 
marked  on  the  plan  ;  the  planting  should  be  done  carefully  and  without  unnecessarily  digging  or 
disturbing  the  graded  surface.  After  this  the  harrow  or,  better  yet,  the  rake  may  again  pass 
over  the  surface,  with  afterwards  the  roller,  and  the  lawn  is  ready  to  be  sown.  For  small  plats, 
of  course,  digging,  trenching,  and  raking  must  be  done,  instead  of  plowing,  sub-soiling  and 
harrowing.  Do  not  fall  into  the  common  error  of  using  seed  sparingly.  Four  bushels  to  the 
acre  is  the  proper  quantity.  I  do  not  consider  it  very  important  what  kind  is  sown.  The 
Red  Top  or  Blue  Grass  are  about  the  best,  or  the  "mixtures"  of  desirable  kinds.  It  is  well 
to  add  a  pound  or  two  of  Sweet  Vernal  grass  to  the  acre,  for  the  delightful  fragrance  it  emits; 
also  a  quantity  of  White  Clover,  say  one  or  two  pounds  to  the  acre.  These  are  usually  included 
in  the  mixtures  prepared  by  seedsmen. 

When  the  seed  is  sown,  a  light  harrow  or  rake  should  be  applied,  and  after  that  a  thorough 
rolling  given,  so  that  the  surface  become  as  smooth  as  possible.  The  seed  may  be  sown  any 
time  during  the  months  of  April  and  May,  and  will  form  a  good  lawn  by  August,  if 
the  preparation  has  been  good.  If  sown  in  the  hot  months  of  June  or  July,  a  sprinkling  of 
oats  should  be  sown  at  the  same  time,  so  that  the  shade  given  by  the  oats  will  protect  the  young 


THE  HOME  FLORIST. 


grass  from  the  sun.  Frequent  mowing  of  the  grass — and,  let  rhe  add,  weeds,  also,  for  the  first 
few  months  at  least — should  be  attended  to.  The  weed  seed  lying  dormant  in  the  ground  at 
sowing  time,  will  spring  up  thick  and  rank  with  the  grass,  but  will 
finally  succumb  to  the  frequent  use  of  the  lawn  mower  or  scythe, 
while  the  grass  will  improve  in  strength  and  appearance  with 
each  cutting.  Mowing  every  week  or  two  will  not  be  too  often. 
The  grass  should  be  raked  off  after  each  mowing  with  a  fine- 
toothed  rake.  Lawns  are  frequently  sown  during  the  early  fall 
months  with  excellent  results. 

Sometimes  after  a  good  sod  has  formed  on  the  lawn,  it  is 
desirable  to  remove  a  tree  or  shrub  from  one  part  of  the  grounds 
to  another,  or  to  plant  a  new  one.  In  Fig.  4  we  illustrate  how 
this  can  be  accomplished,  without  mutilating  or  otherwise  injur- 
ing the  sod,  by  making  four  cuts,  two  or  three  feet  in  length, 
away  from  the  tree,  and  rolling  the  sod  back  while  taking  up 
or  planting,  and  again  unfolding  it  into  its  original  position  after 
the  soil  has  been  properly  leveled.  With  a  little  care  th'is 
operation  may  be  so  nicely  performed  as  scarcely  to  leave  any 
visible  marks  afterwards. 

Sodding, — The  edges  of  grass-sown   lawns,  bordering  on 
walks,  drives,  flower  beds,  etc.,  should,  for  protection,  be  sodded 
4-  one  or  two  feet  wide,  with  turf  obtained    from  an  even  grassy 

spot  in  the  meadow,  where  no  weeds  are  growing,  and  cut  into  square  blocks,  or  into  lengths  of 
five  or  six  feet  and  one  foot  wide,  which  can  be  conveniently  rolled  up  for  handling ;  they  may 
be  cut  two  inches  thick  and  should  be  laid  closely  and  compactly  together,  beating  down  smooth 
with  the  back  of  the  spade,  so  that  there  will  be  no  crevices  between  the  cut  portions  or 
beneath  them.  This  work  is  best  done  early  in  the  spring  or  late  in  autumn. 

Walks  and  Drives. — Good  dry  roads  or  walks  are  a  great  comfort  about  the  home, 
and  when  well  made  and  finished  they  impart  decided  character  and  finish  to  grounds.  The 
ordinary  method  of  securing  the  curves  which  has  been  decided  upon,  is  by  measurement  or  by 
setting  small  stakes  on  the  line  of  the  road,  and  moving  them  until  the  curve  seems  graceful 

A      A^ and   pleasant   to  the  eye.     We  find  a  very 

Jllllllllllljj,  A  good    plan    in    J.     Weidemann's    excellent 

work  on  Landscape  Gardening,  published 
by  the  Orange  Judd  Co.,  for  accomplishing 
this.  In  the  engraving,  it  will  be  readily 
seen  how,  by  means  of  a-  stout  cord  and 
stakes,  the  curve  is  secured.  After  the 
desired  course  and  width  of  walks  and 
drives  are  decided  upon,  the  work  of  mak- 
ing may  commence.  Excavate  from  one 
to  two  feet,  fill  in  with  large  stones,  upon  these  put  smaller  ones,  diminishing  the  size  as  the 
surface  is  reached,  and  finish  off  with  coarse  gravel,  and  then  with  a  coat  of  finer,  roll  well, 
and  there  will  be  a  road  that  will  need  little  mending  and  fit  to  travel  in  all  weather. 

Designs  for  Flower  Beds  on  the  Lawn. — With  a  ten-foot  pole,  two  stakes 
eighteen  inches  long  and  a  cord  to  connect  them,  and  several  dozen  small  stakes  for  defining 
outlines,  the  following  designs  may  easily  be  made.  In  Fig.  6  ascertain  the  points  of  the  star 
by  setting  five  stakes  at  equal  distance  from  each  other  on  the  circle ;  lay  the  ten-foot  pole  from 
each  stake  to  the  second  one  from  it  both  ways,  and  mark  with  a  pointed  stick.  For  the  Moon 
make  one  large  circle  for  the  circumference,  and  another  smaller  with  the  center  a  little  moved 
to  give  the  inside  shape.  To  make  an  Oval,  first  lay  out  an  oblong  square  of  the  desired  size, 
placing  slakes  at  the  corners.  Then  set  five,  seven  or  any  like  number  of  stakes,  on  each  side, 
as  is  shown  in  Fig.  7-  Now  lay  the  pole  against  the  middle,  long  side  stake,  and  the  first 
stake  from  the  corner  on  the  short  side,  and  draw  a  mark ;  then  move  it  to  the  stake  next  the 
middle  on  the  long  side  and  stake  number  two  on  the  short  side,  and  draw  another  mark,  pro- 
ceed in  this  manner  around  the  entire  square,  and  a  well-proportioned  oval  will  finally  result. 
Triangular  and  other  forms  are  readily  made  with  the  pole,  stakes  and  line. 


Fig.  6. 


Fig.  7. 


Fig.  8. 


IO 


THE  HOME  FLOXIST. 


FIG.  9.  FIG.  10. 

Figs.  9  and  fo,  Designs  of  Compound  Flower  Beds. 


FIG.  ii. 
Fig.  n,  a  Circular  Ribbon 


OPEN   AIR  FLORICULTURE. 


Planting  in  Masses  of  Color. — This  style  of  adornment  with  plants  and  flowers  is 
one  of  the  most  effective  that  can  be  adopted,  when  applied  to  ornamenting  the  grounds  about 
the  home,  and  it  possesses  the  merit  of  being  exceedingly  simple.  It  consists  of  planting  beds 
which  are  cut  in  the  lawn,  or  otherwise  located,  with  a  single  kind  of  plant,  or  with  various 
kinds,  arranged  in  groups, — the  object  being  to  plant  so  thickly  that  the  ground  will  become 
entirely  concealed,  thus  creating  the  effect  of  one  or  more,  as  the  case  may  be,  individual  and 
distinct  masses  of  bloom  or  color.  Or  the  beds  may  be  of  compound  form,  consisting  of 
separate  parts,  each  planted  with  a  distinct  color.  Sometimes  an  edging  of  a  beautiful  plant 
may  be  uniformly  set  around  these  masses,  with  good  advantage.  Only  certain  plants  are  desira- 
ble for  planting  in  masses,  being  such  kinds  as  are  of  free  blooming  habit,  or  which  have  attractive 
foliage  of  distinct  form  or  color.  Several  designs  of  beds  suitable  for  this  purpose  are  repre- 
sented herewith,  and  the  reader  is  referred  to  the  article  on  "Laying  out  Flower  Beds  in  the 
Lawn,"  for  others.  It  should  not  be  inferred  that  beds  planted  in  this  style  need  be  either  large  or 
costly  to  be  effective.  Beds  three,  or  even  only  two,  feet  across,  if  cut  in  the  green  lawn,  and 
planted  with  such  valuable  plants  for  this  purpose,  as  Gen.  Grant  Geraniums,  Coleus  Vershaffeltii, 
or  others,  say  five  well-established  plants  for  the  smaller,  and  eight  for  the  larger  sized  bed,  will 
become  amazingly  attractive,  and  appear  complete  in  any  grounds.  Amateurs  trying  one  or 
more  beds  in  massing  could  scarcely  fail  to  be  pleased  with  the  result.  Fig.  12  is  a  perspective 
representation  of  a  round  bed  planted  in  three  different  colors,  as  shown  by  the  dark  and  light 
colors.  The  centre  is  occupied  by  a  distinct  color  and  variety,  somewhat  taller  than  the  others. 
Fig.  9  represents  a  compound  bed  of  circular  outline.  The  centre  bed  may  be  divided  into  four 
equal  parts,  each  planted  with  a  distinct  color  of  Phlox  Drummondii,  or  only  two  colors,  as 
white  and  brilliant  scarlet,  each  color 'occupy ing  two  opposite  quarters.  The  small  outside 
beds  might  be  planted  with  mixed  Pansies,  and  the  large  ones  respectively  with  crimson  and  rose- 
colored  Portulaca.  Fig.  10  is  a  very  easily  planned  compound  bed,  more  elaborate  than  the  last 
one  described,  but,  like  it,  is  well  adapted  for  any  grounds.  The  former  may  be  twelve  feet  in 
diameter,  from  outside  to  outside,  and  the  latter  twenty-four  to  thirty  feet  across,  between 
extreme  points.  A  star,  the  body  of  which  is  planted  with  Achryanthes  Verschaffeltii,  and  the 
points  with  Alternanthera  Versicolor,  a  plant  of  the  same  color,  forms  a  very  attractive  orna- 
ment. We  have  planted  round  beds  with  the  dark  and  other  colored  Cannas,  placing  a  row  of 
White  Centaureas  around  the  edge  with  the  most  pleasing  results.  There  is  in  fact  no  limit  to 
the  forms  and  varied  arrangement  of  plants,  which  may  be  adopted  with  pleasing  effects  in  this 
style  of  planting.  To  render  the  present  article  on  this  subject  more  complete,  I  give  a  list  of 
the  plants  best  suited  to  this  purpose.  The  reader  is  referred  to  the  description  of  each  kind, 
which  will  be  found  in  other  parts  of  the  work. 


Ageratum  in  variety. 
Abutilon    Thompsonii. 
Achryanthes,  various  colors. 
Alyssum  and  Thy  me, variegated 


Alternantheras,  various  colors. 
Artemesia  Stellaris. 
Candytuft,  various  colors. 
Cannas,  various  colors. 


Centaurea  Candida,  and  Gym- 

nocarpa. 

Coleus  Verschaffeltii  and  others. 
Divarf  Convolvulus. 


Leptosiphon,  various  colors. 
Lobelia. 

Pansies,  various  colors. 
Petunias,  various  colors. 
Phlox  Drummondii,  var.  colors. 
Portulaca,  various  colors. 
Stocks,  various  colors. 
Verbenas,  various  colors. 


Geraniums,    Gen.    Grant    and 

others. 

Golden  Feather  Feverfew. 
Heliotrope. 

Ribbon  Gardening. — This  method  of  ornamental  planting  consists  in  placing  plants 
with  distinct  contrasting  colored  flowers  or  with  showy  foliage,  in  lines  either  circular  on 
round  or  oval  beds,  or  straight  on  borders  or  square  beds  ;  this  produces  an  effect  somewhat 
resembling  a  ribbon  when  viewed  from  a  distance.  To  give  a  correct  idea  of  this  matter,  I 
illustrate  in  Fig.  1 1  the  placing  of  the  plants  in  position  in  a  circular  bed;  it  will  be  seen  that  the 
work  of  planting  may  be  guided  by  striking  circles,  with  a  line  attached  to  a  stake  in  the  cen- 


THE  HOME  FLORIST, 


II 


ter.  I  have  found  in  practice  that  in  planting  circular  or  oval  ribbon  beds  it  is  best  to  plant 
the  largest  or  outside  circle  first,  finishing  in  the  center.  Fig.  13  represents  a  long  ribbon 
bed  planted  with  five  lines  of  plants  of  various  colors.  One  of  the  finest  specimens  of  ribbon 
planting  which  I  have  seen,  was  a  large  oval  bed  12  by  1 8  feet  in  diameter,  with  the  first  row 


Fig.  12.  Planting  in  masses  of  color. 


I3-    Long  Ribbon  Bed. 


next  the  edge  planted  with  Variegated  Sweet  Alyssum,  eight  inches  apart,  the  second  from  the 
edge  with  Alternantheras  ten  inches  apart ;  third,  Centaurea  Candida,  fourteen  inches  apart  ; 
fourth,  Coleus  Verschaffeltii,  sixteen  inches  apart  ;  fifth,  Caladium  Esculentum,  a  foot  and  a  half 
apart;  sixth,  Abutilon  Thompsonii,  fifteen  inches  apart  ;  the  centre  was  planted  with  large  Can- 
nas,  intermixed  with  Gladiolus.  This  bed  was  exceedingly  beautiful  for  months.  It  will  be 
noticed  that  the  tallest  plants  occupied  the  center,  while  each  circle  toward  the  edge  contained 
plants  of  less  height.  Where  smaller  beds  are  desired,  a  less  number  of  circles  or  lines  will  be 
necessary  ;  one  might  be  made  with  a  large  scarlet  Geranium,  Gladiolus  or  double  Zinnias,  for 
the  centre,  with  white  Feverfew,  Centaurea  or  white  Phlox  Drummondii  next,  and  surrounding 
these,  Larkspur,  Heliotrope,  or  other  blue  flowers,  with  yellow  Calceolaria  or  Dwarf  Nastur- 
tium next,  and  outside  of  all  plant  a  circle  of  Variegated  Thyme,  Sweet  Alyssum,  Mignonette, 
or  other  low-growing  plant.  A  very  pretty  long  ribbon  bed  is  made  by  taking  different  colors 
of  the  same  flower,  like  Phlox  Drummondii,  Portulaca,  Verbenas,  Stocks,  and  others  described 
as  being  suitable.  With  a  little  care  in  studying  descriptions,  and  a  little  experience,  the  work 
of  arranging  these  beds  becomes  easy,  pleasant  and  interesting. 

Planting  Mixed  Borders  and  Beds. — A  very  common  arrangement  of  flower 
beds  consists  in  making  borders  along  the  walks,  four,  five  or  more  feet  wide;  large  beds  in  the 
lawn  or  separate,  or  a  centre  bed  in  the  vegetable  garden,  and  planting  promiscuously  with  a 
general  variety  of  all  kinds  and  seasons  of  flowering.  Be  careful  at  planting  time  to  place  the 
tallest  growers,  such  as  Hollyhocks,  Ricinus,  Dahlias,  etc.,  in  the  background  of  the  border 
beds,  or  in  the  center  of  beds  sur- 
rounded by  walks,  else  they  might 
hide  some  smaller  growths.  Where 
it  is  possible,  plants  and  flowers  of 
contrasting  colors  should  be  set 
to  show  to  the  best  advantage , 
and  those  flowering  at  different 
times,  to  make  the  display  contin- 
ual throughout.  Fig.  14  illus- 
trates a  plan  for  flower  beds  in  a 
walk  bordered  with  shrubbery. 

Flower  Beds  for  Con- 
stant Cutting  .-It  never  seems 
right  to  see  beds  that  were  planted 


of  young,  fresh  flowers  for  the  table,  bouquets,  or  to  cut  for  friends.  It  is  much  better 
to  have  a  bed  or  mixed  border  near  at  hand  planted  with  free  blooming  varieties  that  are  desira- 
ble for  fragrance  and  brilliant  colors,  especially  for  this  purpose.  These  will  bloom  all  the 
more  constant  for  having  the  young  flowers  cut  as  fast  as  they  open,  and  it  is  surprising  to  see 
the  amount  of  flowers  that  can  daily  be  cut  from  quite  a  small  bed.  Such  a  bed  snould  be 
planted  largely  with  annual  Phlox  Drummondii,  vSweet  Pea,  Zinnia,  Stocks,  Candytuft,  Mig- 
nonette, besides  Heliotrope,  monthly  Roses,  Gladiolus,  Dahlia,  Geranium,  Verbena,  Pansy 
and  others.  An  abundance  of  green  snould  also  be  provided  for,  as  foliage  is  an  important  item 
in  all  floral  arrangements,  a  matter  which  is  too  frequently  overlooked  by  both  amateur  and  com- 
mercial florists.  Nothing  can  be  cultivated  to  supply  this  better  than  Shrubland  Pet  and  the 
Rose  Scented  Geraniums,  two  varieties  of  this  valuable  family  of  plants  that  are  easily  propa- 
gated by  every  one,  and  which  grow  with  great  vigor  if  taken  from  the  pots  and  planted  in  fertile 
soil.  A  few  plants  of  each  will  afford  a  large  supply  of  delightful  green  foliage,  unequalled 
in  the  first  named  variety,  for  its  beautiful  dense  foliage  and  many  clusters  of  brilliant  crimson 
flowers  all  summer,  and  in  the  latter  for  the  agreeable,  refreshing  fragrance  of  the  foliage,  which 
is  also  of  a  deep  green  color  and  of  beautiful  form.  There  are  several  varieties  of  so-called 
Rose  Geraniums,  all  differing  somewhat  in  fragrance  and  appearance,  most  of  which  are  vastly 
inferior,  in  all  important  respects,  to  the  true  rose-scented  variety.  Then,  some  plants,  with  beau- 
tiful foliage,  such  as  Abutilon  Thompsonii,  Centaurea  Gymnocarpa  or  the  Achryanthes,  Amar- 
anthus,  etc.,  should  not  be  everlooked.  These  will  furnish  a  variation  of  material  for  intermix- 
ing with  and  edging  flowers  in  bouquets,  baskets,  and  other  arrangements,  that  is  very  desirable 
along  with  green.  Smilax  is  a  plant  with  finer  green  foliage  than  the  Geraniums  alluded 


12  THE  HOME  FLORIST. 


to,  but  it  is  not  so  good  for  constant  daily  cutting,  being  a  climber,  and  hardly  available  until  it 
has  made  a  growth  of  from  three  to  six  feet,  as  the  vine  with  leaves  attached  are  too  succulent 
for  use,  with  less  than  several  months'  age.  Another  plant  deserving  of  more  general  cultiva- 
tion, and  valuable  for  this  purpose,  is  Lemon  Verbena  (Aloysia  Citriodord),  which  is  of  easy 
culture,  and  is  a  favorite  wherever  its  delightful  fragrance  and  delicate  form  of  leaf  are  known. 

The  Soil:  Its  Preparation  and  Treatment.— It  we  would  be  successful  in 
cultivating  flowers  under  any  circumstances,  it  is  of  the  greatest  importance  that  we  give  our 
plants  a  deep,  fertile  and  well  drained  soil  to  grow  in.  That  attempts  at  floriculture  may  be 
shrouded  in  irremediable  failures  from  other  causes  is  possible  ;  but  I  freely  assert  that  lack  of 
attention  to  thoroughly  securing  these  requisites  is  the  direct  cause  of  nearly  every  failure  to 
produce  fine  flowers  in  abundance.  This  should  be  understood  by  beginners.  Not  a  season 
passes  but  in  July,  August  and  September,  flower  beds  are  to  be  seen  which  were  laid  out  and 
planted  with  much  taste  and  expense  perhaps,  that  contain  at  this  season,  only  poor,  unthrifty, 
flowerless  plants,  an  eye-sore  to  the  beholder,  and  a  testimonial  to  the  one  fact,  that  the  soil  was 
unsuitably  prepared  for  flowers.  Few  soils  are  so  stubborn  that  with  perfect  drainage,  either 
natural  or  artificial — and  this  if  well  done  once  will  last  a  lifetime — with  being  trenched  eighteen 
inches  or  two  feet  deep,  and  annually  supplied  with  a  dressing  of  manure,  together  with  being 
well  tilled,  will  not  produce  flowers  in  abundance. 

Trenching  is  an  operation  which  consists  in  working  the  soil  to  a  great  depth,  with  the 
use  of  the  spade.  It  serves  to  promote  the  growth  of  vegetation,  by  giving  to  the  roots  ample 

room  for  extension  ;  besides,  with  retaining  moisture 
the  entire  depth  to  which  the  soil  is  stirred  and 
broken,  it  prevents  injury  to  plants  in  severe  drouths, 
where  they  might  be  effected  by  drying,  were  the  soil 
only  worked  to  a  shallow  depth.  In  ordinary  culture 
the  surface  soil,  only,  is  overturned  or  stirred  by  the 
plough  or  spade,  leaving  the  subsoil  underneath, 
which  is  usually  hard  and  compact,  untouched  ;  but 
with  trenching  the  operation  is  conducted  to  work  up 
the  latter  as  well  as  the  former,  keeping  each  part  by 
Fig.  13.  Trenching  itself>  tne  surface  soi[  above  and  the  subsoil,  which 

is  of  a  sterile  nature  underneath.  The  annexed  cut,  representing  a  section  of  soil  to  be 
trenched,  shows  how  this  is  accomplished.  The  surface  soil  shown  in  section  A,  to 
the  width  of  about  six  feet  across  the  bed,  is  first  thrown  out  entirely  and  the  subsoil 
underneath  (a)  is  turned  with  the  spade,  moving  it  only  enough  to  facilitate  the  work  ;  a  section 
of  surface  soil  about  four  feet  wide,  represented  in  the  cut  by  B,  is  next  thrown  over  in  the 
space  A,  on  subsoil  a,  and  the  subsoil  now  turned  to  light  is  overturned  in  like  manner  as  that 
represented  by  a  was.  The  soil  in  section  C,  to  the  width  of  about  four  feet,  is  in  turn  thrown 
into  space  B,  and  the  subsoil  underneath  is  overturned.  The  operation  is  continued  in  the 
same  manner  across  the  bed  or  lot,  and  the  opening  remaining  at  the  end  after  the  other 
side  has  been  reached,  can  be  filled  up  with  the  surface  soil  first  thrown  out. 

Manure  should  be  applied  to  flower  beds  in  the  fall,  after  severe  frosts  have  finally  cut 
down  the  plants,  and  annual  bulbs  and  tubers  are  removed.  Spread  evenly  over,  the  surface, 
and  incorporate  well  with  the  soil  by  spading  up  thorough  and  deep.  Always  have  a  supply  of 
manure  in  some  corner  for  such  purposes.  Those  who  keep  a  cow  or  horse  will  of  course  have 
enough.  If  you  manage  to  have  it  six  or  twelve  months  old  before  using,  it  is  best,  although 
some  fresher  from  the  stable  will  answer  the  purpose.  Those  who  cannot  get  manure  readily 
should  make  a  compost  heap  by  gathermg  up  a  store  of  leaves  in  the  fall  and  leaving  them  lay 
until  spring,  when  they  should  be  piled  up  in  alternate  layers  with  a  cartload  of  sods  from  some 
meadow  or  roadside  to  rot,  giving  the  heap  a  weekly  soaking  of  soapsuds  on  washing  days. 
Throw  on,  during  the  summer  months,  rakings  and  scrapings  from  the  garden,  and  once  in  a 
while  add  a  shovelful  of  lime,  and  a  barrow  load  of  black  earth  from  the  street,  and  by  early 
winter  you  will  have  a  mound  of  rich,  black,  crumbly  loam,  of  fine  fertilizing  quality. 

Where  hardy  plants,  shrubs,  or  Roses  that  remain  in  the  ground  from  year  to  year,  are 
growing  in  the  beds,  care  should  be  taken  not  to  cut  or  spade  so  near  them  as  to  injure  the 
roots  at  the  annual  fall  spading.  These  are  benefited  by  receiving  a  dressing  of  strawy  manure, 
over  their  roots,  late  in  the  season,  which  should  be  raked  off  again  in  the  spring.  In  spring 
the  beds  are  to  be  worked  over  again  with  the  spade,  or  digging-fork.  If  the  manure  worked 
in,  in  the  fall,  appears  to  have  been  ample,  none  need  now  be  applied.  We  take  exception, 
however,  to  new  beds  to  be  planted  for  the  first  time  ;  better  give  these  another  moderate  dress- 
ing before  spading.  In  no  case  do  spading  in  the  spring  until  the  soil  is  dry.  Imprudence 'in 
this  respect  will  cause  most  land  to  become  rough  and  cloddy,  which  cannot  be  remedied  during 
that  season.  After  nicely  raking  up  the  beds,  always  leaving  the  middle  slightly  elevated,  you 
can  carry  out  your  plans — which  should  have  been  perfected  before  planting  time — by  setting 
out  the  hardiest  plants  first,  finishing  with  the  more  tender  kinds  in  May. 

Sowing  Seeds. — Some  flower  seeds,  like  those  of  Candytuft,  Convolvulus,  Escholtzia, 
Larkspur,  Mignonette,  Poppy,  Portulaca,  Sweet  Pea,  etc.,  do  better  to  sow  directly  where 
they  are  to  bloom.  As  soon  as  the  ground  becomes  warm  and  friable,  say  in  April  and 


THE  HOME  FLORIST.  13 


May,  open  drills — not  too  deep — and  drop  in  the  seed  ;  draw  in  fine  earth  and  beat  it  down  a 
little  with  the  hoe  or  spade.  Where  whole  or  parts  of  beds  are  sown  with  a  single  kind  of 
seed,  they  may  be  scattered  broadcast,  covering  with  light  sandy  soil,  sprinkled  on  with  the 
hand  or  through  a  fine  sieve,  or  a  slight  raking  will  answer  the  same  purpose.  Never  cover 
seeds  of  any  kind  too  deep.  Failures  often  arise  from  this  cause  alone.  I  consider  the  old 
rule  of  covering  twice  the  depth  of  their  own  diameter  to  be  reliable,  and  applicable  to  any 
kind  of  sowing.  As  soon  as  seedlings  have  made  a  second  growth  of  leaves,  they  should  be 
thinned  to  a  distance  which  will  give  each  plant  space  sufficient  to  develop  in  size.  Pansies, 
Hollyhocks,  Delphiniums  and  a  few  others,  by  sowing  in  August  and  September,  will  flower  the 
next  year,  and  earlier  than  if  their  sowing  is  deferred  until  spring.  These  should  be  slightly  cov- 
ered at  the  approach  of  cold  weather.  For  further  remarks  on  time  of  sowing  various  seeds  in 
the  open  ground,  see  Weekly  Classification  of  Work  for  May,  June,  July,  August  and  September. 
Most  other  seed-grown  plants,  besides  those  named  above,  are  benefited  by  being  trans- 
planted, and  should  be  started  in  a  prepared  seed-bed,  cold-frame,  hot-bed,  or  a  box  in  the 
house.  In  either  case,  a  rich,  light,  sandy  loam  should  be  used,  as  with  plants  intended  for 
removal  when  they  have  attained  a  certain  size,  an  abundance  of  fibrous  roots  is  of  import- 
ance, which  can  never  be  obtained  if  the  seedlings  are  brought  forward  in  a  soil  of  a  hard 
"bakey"  character.  Decomposed  grass  sods  from  a  sandy  meadow  make  excellent  soil  for 
this  purpose. 

Hot-Beds,  Cold-Frames  and  Seed-Beds. — Every  family  possessing  a  garden 
ought  to  have  a  hot-bed,  even  if  it  be  only  small,  in  which  to  start  their  seedling  plants,  Dahlia 
roots,  Tuberose  bulbs,  etc.,  and  also  to  root  cuttings.  Tender  annuals  and  vegetables  of  all 
kinds  for  planting  could  be  had  three  or  four  weeks  earlier  than  if  the  seeds  were  sown  in  the 
open  ground,  thus  advancing  their  season  of  maturity  materially.  A  hot-bed  is  made  by  form- 
ing a  pile  of  fresh  strawy  horse  manure  some  three 
feet  in  height,  slightly  elevated  at  what  is  to 
be  the  back  end  of  the  bed.  As  a  number  of 
loads  will  be  required  for  an  ordinary  sized  bed, 
it  may  be  necessary  to  gather  up  manure  for  the 
purpose  for  some  time  previous  to  using  it,  in 
which  case  the  accumulations  should  be  kept 
from  the  wet  under  cover,  and  be  frequently  over- 
turned to  check  its  heating  before  needed.  The 
bed  may  be  sunk  a  foot  or  eighteen  inches  in 
the  ground,  if  drained,  and  should  be  a  foot  larger 
Fig.  1 6. — Hot  Bed.  each  way  than  the  frame  which  is  to  be  used.  The 

manure  should  be  well  trodden  down  to  prevent  settling  when  finished.  Lying  thus  causes  it 
to  ferment,  which  fermentation  produces  the  lasting  bottom  heat  that  warms  the  soil  and  renders 
the  bed  essentially  a  miniature  greenhouse.  After  the  manure  is  in  shape,  the  frame,  which 
should  be  made  of  i^"  or  i^  inch  plank  18  inches  wide,  can  be  placed  on  at  once  and  filled  in 
with  about  four  or  five  inches  of  light  soil  well  enriched  with  fine  manure.  Banking  up  over 
the  projecting  portion  of  the  manure  on  the  outside  with  ground,  will  tend  to  confine  the  heat 
to  the  inside  of  the  frame,  and  will  also  improve  the  appearance  of  the  bed  by  .hiding  the 
manure.  Keep  the  sash  closed  until  the  heat  has  warmed  the  soil  well.  Then  better  wait  a 
day  or  two  before  sowing  the  seed.  I  prefer  sowing  in  drills,  about  two  or  three  inches  apart, 
running  across  the  bed.  Care,  however,  is  required  in  clear  weather  to  prevent  the  heat  rising 
to  an  injurious  temperature.  Abundant  air  should  be  given  when  the  sun  shines,  by  moving 
the  sash  up  or  down.  The  safest  way  is  to  be  governed  by  a  thermometer,  which  should  be 
placed  where  the  sun's  rays  will  not  strike  it ;  keep  the  temperature  as  near  sixty  degrees  in  the 
shade  as  possible.  When  the  mercury  indicates  higher  than  that  point,  give  air ;  when  below 
—as  it  will  in  frosty  nights— cover  with  mats.  By  being  attentive  in  this  matter,  seeds  that 
were  sown  in  April  will  have  become  thrifty,  well-tempered  plants  by  the  latter  part  of  May. 

The  principal  advantages  of  a  hot-bed  maybe  secured  by  what  is  called  a  Cold-Frame.  This 
is  formed  without  manure,  by  placing  the  hot-bed  frame  upon  a  bed  of  soil  in  some  sheltered 
place  in  the  garden,  protected  from  cold  M'inds.  Do  not  start  the  cold-frame  until  the  latter 
part  of  April  in  this  latitude,  as  we  depend  wholly  on  the  sun  for  heating  it.  It  requires  much 
the  same  care  with  reference  to  airing  on  sunny  days,  and  protecting  with  mats  in  cold  nights,  as 
does  the  hot-bed.  Both  should  be  watered  occasionally  when  the  soil  demands  it. 

Many  readers  of  the  FLORIST  can  have  neither  of  these  conveniences.  By  starting  a  week  or 
two  later,  seeds  may  be  sown  in  a  bed  of  good,  mellow  soil,  made  in  some  warm,  sunny  spot 
about  the  house,  with  good  results.  On  the  east  or  south  side  of  a  building  is  just  the  place,  where 
the  sun's  rays  reflected  on  the  building,  causes  the  bed  to  be  some  degrees  warmer,  consequently 
earlier  than  if  made  out  in  an  open  space.  I  will  here  remark,  that  all  seeds  come  up  sooner 
for  having  the  ground  shaded  with  shutters,  mats,  or  perhaps,  better  than  all,  paper,  until  the 
shoots  have  reached  the  surface,  when  the  covering  must  be  removed  at  once. 

Transplanting. — I  prefer  to  transplant  seedling  plants  with  a  dibble  or  pointed 
stick,  and  pot  grown  plants  with  a  garden  trowel,  just  before  or  after  a  shower.  Sometimes 
transplanting  must  be  done  in  a  dry  spell.  The  best  way  then,  is  to  plant  carefully  towards 


14  THE  HOME  FLORIST. 


evening  of  the  day,  leaving  a  depression  in  the  soil  around  each  plant,  which  should  be  filled 
with  water  and  allowed  to  settle  away  until  the  soil  is  thoroughly  saturated.  Next  morning 
the  earth  should  be  drawn  in,  to  prevent  the  wet  soil  from  baking. 

Slimmer  Culture. — In  summer  the  earth  between  the  plants  should  be  frequently 
stirred,  after  each  rain  at  least.  Some  things,  like  Double  Geraniums  and  Carnations,  it  is  well 
to  mulch  with  straw.  Beds  are  better  if  calculated  so  that  flowers  or  plants  can  be  reached 
without  treading  on  the  ground. 

The  flowering  season  of  many  things,  like  Verbenas,  Geraniums  and  Dahlias,  may  be 
lengthened,  almost  every  autumn,  by  covering  the  plants  with  mats,  etc.,  on  cool  nights  to 
protect  from  the  first  September  frosts.  After  some  quite  sharp  frosts  the  weather  usually  comes 
off  warm  and  pleasant  for  some  time  yet,  and  it  is  well  to  have  the  benefit  of  this  on  the  plants. 

Preparatory  Treatment  of  Plants  designed  for  Winter  Flowering. — 

It  should  be  borne  in  mind  that  in  winter  the  natural  conditions  of  heat,  sunlight,  and  the 
lessened  length  of  daylight,  are  adverse  to  the  profuse  growth  of  vegetation,  and  particularly 
the  production  of  flower  buds  ;  for  this  reason,  it  is  of  the  greatest  importance  in  plant  culture, 
at  this  season,  either  in  the  dwelling  or  conservatory,  to  have,  at  the  outset,  good  plants  of 
strong  vitality.  When  plants  pass  into  the  winter  quarters  in  a  weakened  condition,  from  any 
cause,  they  will  be  apt  to  remain  weak  all  winter.  The  best  way  of  securing  plants  for  winter 
flowering,  especially  rapid  growing  kinds,  is  to  start  with  young  plants  the  spring  previous,  and 
prepare  them  for  this  purpose  during  the  summer,  by  giving  them  a  favorable  opportunity  for 
making  a  healthy  growth  in  the  open  air,  either  in  pots  plunged  to  their  rims  in  soil,  refuse 
hops  or  other  material,  or  by  being  bedded  out,  and  during  this  time,  and  until  within  a  month 
or  two  of  cold  weather,  practice  a  system  of  heading  them  in  to  cause  a  compact  stocky  growth, 
and  also  to  prevent  the  exhaustion  of  plant  force  by  flowering,  which,  if  allowed,  would  be 
detrimental  to  the  crop  in  winter.  For  special  r^narks  on  the  culture  of  all  suitable  varieties, 
see  the  directions  accompanying  each  kind. 

The  plants  that  were  bedded  during  summer,  such  as  Carnations,  Violets,  etc.,  should  be 
taken  up  and  potted  as  early  as  the  first  two  weeks  of  September,  in  order  that  they  may  fully 
recover  from  the  effects  of  the  operation  before  cold  weather  sets  in.  With  plants  grown  for 
the  beauty  of  their  foliage,  it  is  needless  to  adopt  this  course  of  summer  treatment,  further  than 
to  have  them  healthy  and  of  fine  form,  whether  they  be  large  or  small.  Some  small  pots,  con- 
taining pretty  plants,  placed  among  the  larger  ones  of  a  collection  will  enhance  appearances 
greatly.  In  the  fall  avoid  taking  plants  into  their  winter  quarters  too  soon,  but  gradually  inure 
them  to  the  confined  air  of  the  room  or  bay  window,  by  keeping  them  inside  during  cold  nights 
or  cool  weather,  allowing  them  to  be  fully  exposed  to  the  air  in  partial  shade,  as  under  the 
piazza,  or  at  the  side  of  the  house,  during  fine  weather.  In  the  case  of  having  a  conservatory 
for  the  plants  they  may  be  placed  in  it  at  once,  but  an  abundance  of  air  should  be  allowed  to 
circulate  through  the  structure  at  all  times  when  the  temperature  will  allow.  The  plants  grown 
in  pots  should  receive  their  final  shift  into  the  pots  or  boxes  they  are  to  occupy  during  winter,  in 
September  or  October.  We  find  that  a  soil  made  of  two  or  three  parts  of  decomposed  turf  and 
one  part  of  well  rotted  stable  manure,  with  the  addition  of  a  little  clean  sand,  is  suited  to  nearly 
every  plant  grown,  and  is  better  than  "chip  ground,"  so  commonly  used. 

Watering  Plants,  the  Lawn,  etc.,  in  Summer. — Whenever  it  becomes  neces- 
sary to  resort  to  watering  in  dry  weather,  it  is-  much  better  to  apply  sufficient  water  to  thoroughly 
soak  the  soil  while  about  it,  than  to  apply  a  small  quantity  day  by  day,  a  custom  very  prevalent 
among  cultivators.  When  about  to  water  plants  first  draw  the  soil  away  from  the  base  of  the 
stalk  in  order  to  form  a  sort  of  basin  in  which  to  pour  the  water  ;  fill  this  up  and  let  it  settle 
away  repeatedly  until  a  sufficiency  has  been  applied,  then  draw  the  earth  again  to  the  plant, 
which  will  prevent  the  soil  from  becoming  baked  by  the  sun.  A  thorough  watering  in  this 
manner  ought  to  last  for  several  weeks  in  the  driest  time  of  summer.  When  entire  beds  are  to 
be  watered  the  soil  should  be  opened  by  thrusting  a  digging-fork  into  it  in  numerous  places 
before  sprinkling  ;  then  the  beds  should  be  passed  over  again  and  again  with  the  pot  and  sprink- 
ler until  a  sufficiency  has  been  absorbed.  The  next  day  the  surface  of  the  bed  should  be  mel- 
lowed up  with  the  rake  or  hoe. 

This  rule  of  thoroughly  watering  each  time  water  is  needed,  and  then  not  again  until  it  is 
really  necessary,  applies  quite  as  well  to  watering  plants  in  pots  at  all  seasons  of  the  year,  either 
out  of  doors  or  in  the  house  and  conservatory,  as  in  the  open  ground.  Do  not  over- water  pot 
plants,  however,  as  it  is  contrary  to  the  nature  of  the  generality  of  plants  to  thrive  in  soil  in 
such  a  condition. 

Autumn  Planting  of  Hyacinths,  Tulips  and  other  Hardy  Bulbs.— 
Were  the  Bulbs  which  are'  known  as  Hardy  or  Dutch  Bulbs  grown  by  planting  in  the  spring 
time  of  the  year  with  the  Gladiolus,  Tigriclia,  etc.,  their  culture  would  be  more  common,  and 
collections  of  the  choicer  varieties,  such  as  are  conspicuous  for  their  beauty  and  grandeur,  would 
be  less  rare.  Planting  at  the  approach  of  winter  is  rather  contrary  to  the  general  rule  of  garden 
management,  and  we  are  inclined  to  neglect  this  only  means  for  securing  the  flowering  of 
Hyacinths,  Tulips,  Crocus,  etc.,  early  the  following  spring,  or  for  improving  the  collections 
that  may  be  growing  in  our  gardens,  which  consist  far  too  often  of  inferior  varieties,  considering 
the  trifling  outlay  which  is  necessary  for  obtaining  a  better  quality  of  stock. 


THE  HOME  FLORIST.  15 


The  planting  of  these  may  be  done  at  any  time  during  the  months  of  September,  October 
and  November,  or  even  later,  provided  the  ground  remain  unfrozen  later,  which  is  sometimes 
the  case.  To  be  entirely  safe  it  is  best,  perhaps,  not  to  defer  the  work  much  after  October. 
Bulbs  will  succeed  in  any  good  garden  soil ;  in  order,  however,  to  secure  the  highest  degree  of 
success  in  their  culture,  it  is  necessary  to  plant  in  a  soil  that  is  well  drained  and  enriched  with 
thoroughly  decayed  manure.  When  all  plantings  have  been  completed,  and  before  winter  sets 
in,  cover  the  beds  with  several  inches  of  leaves,  straw  or  other  coarse  litter,  to  prevent  the 
severe  action  of  freezing  from  injuring  the  Bulbs.  In  situations  much  exposed  to  the  wind,  a 
few  brush  or  sticks  thrown  on  will  prevent  its  being  blown  off.  Early  in  the  spring  this  fall 
covering  should  be  removed.  Where  beds  planted  with  hardy  spring-flowering  Bulbs  are 
required  for  summer  flowers,  Hyacinths,  Tulips,  etc.,  may  safely  be  taken  up  to  prepare  for 
planting  the  subsequent  fall,  as  early  as  two  weeks  after  the  flowers  have  disappeared,  provided 
the  precaution  of  covering  the  Bulbs  with  soil,  to  allow  the  foliage  to  become  gradually  ripened, 
is  observed. 

Taking  up  Plants  from  the  open  ground  in  the  Fall.— Many  kinds  of 
bedding  plants,  such  as  Geraniums,  Veronicas,  Stocks,  Salvias,  Ageratums,  Roses,  Carnations, 
etc.,  can  be  taken  up  from  the  flower-beds  at  the  approach  of  frosts,  and  transferred  into  pots, 
or  even  packed  thickly  in  boxes  of  soil,  by  taking  care  to  have  some  earth  adhering  to  the  roots, 
and  by  keeping  in  a  rather  dry  and  cool  cellar,  or  better  yet  in  a  cold  pit  through  the  winter. 
It  must,  however,  be  done  at  the  sacrifice  of  much  autumnal  beauty,  as  they  require  a  severe 
cutting  back  of  at  least  one-third  or  one-half  of  the  shoots.  But  this  is  gain  after  all,  for  such 
plants,  when  kept  over,  in  most  cases,  make  a  better  show  the  next  year  than  the  plants  of  the 
present  season's  striking.  They  may  receive  one  thorough  watering  when  potted  ;  after  which 
they  should  be  kept  quite  dry  until  spring,  when  water  should  be  applied  every  few  days  in 
increased  quantities  as  they  commence  making  a  new  growth. 


•      SIMPLE   INSTRUCTIONS    FOR   PROPAGATING   FROM 
CUTTINGS   AND    LAYERS. 

The  larger  proportion  of  plants  that  do  not  seed  freely,  if  at  all,  or  which  cannot  be 
increased  by  division  of  the  roots,  may  be  propagated  from  cuttings  or  layers  of  the  young 
growing  shoots.  How  important  a  thorough  understanding  of  these  methods  of  propagation 
is  to  the  florist,  may  be  comprehended  when  we  consider  that  this  is  about  the  only,  and 
really  the  best,  means  of  increasing  the  majority  of  that  class  of  plants  commonly  known  as 
perennial  greenhouse  and  bedding  plants,  in  which  may  be  included  Tender  and  Hardy  Roses, 
Geraniums,  Fuchsias,  Carnations,  Verbenas,  Heliotropes,  and  very  many  others  of  equal  import- 
ance as  decorative  plants.  As  the  two  methods  are  quite  distinct,  I  shall  treat  upon  each 
separately,  commencing  with  that  of  propagating  from  cuttings,  as  this  is  the  more  commonly 
employed  method  of  the  two. 

The  principal  conditions  essential  to  successfully  propagate  from  cuttings  are  nearly  the 
same  with  all  plants  susceptible  of  being  perpetuated  by  this  means.  These  are  first,  that  the 
cutting  be  in  a  proper  condition ;  second,  that  it  be  rightly  pruned  or  trimmed ;  third,  that  it 
receive  suitable  treatment  and  care  while  rooting;  and  fourth,  that  after  it  is  rooted  it  be  trans- 
planted from  the  cutting  box  or  bed  to  soil  at  the  right  time,  and  that  it  be  properly  attended  to 
until  it  becomes  a  well  established  plant. 

With  the  generality  of  kinds  the  ends  of  newly  formed  shoots  make  the  best  cuttings,  and 
are  greatly  preferable  to  old  hardened  growth.  There  is  a  certain  time  and  condition  in  the 
growth  of  all  plant  shoots  in  which,  if  a  cutting  be  taken,  it  will  strike  root  and  make  a  plant 
sooner  and  better  than  at  any  other  time.  To  ascertain  this  condition,  and  how  far  back  it 
extends  from  the  growing  terminal  bud,  it  should  be  understood  that  there  are  different  degrees 
of  hardness  present  in  the  wood — the  youngest  part  being  the  softest,  while  towards  the  base  of 
the  shoot  it  is  harder  and  more  fibrous  as  the  oldest  portion  is  reached.  By  taking  a 
cutting  off,  clown  in  this  hardened  portion  of  the  shoot,  it  would  be  found  to  root  slowly,  and  in 
some  plants  not  at  all,  and  at  best  would  make  a  plant,  comparatively,  of  inferior  quality ;  while 
with  adopting  the  opposite  extreme,  making  a  short  cutting  of  the  succulent  young  growth  only, 
it  would  be  still  less  likely  to  root,  and  instead  would,  perhaps,  quickly  decay.  Now  the  right 
place  to  cut  or  break  it  off  (breaking  is  generally  practiced  by  florists)  is  at  the  furthest  point  in 
from  the  end  where  a  condition  can  be  found  that  is  somewhat  hardened,  and  yet  sufficiently  brittle 
or  crisp,  that  it  will  snap  off  with  a  clean  break,  instead  of  bending  without  breaking,  or  of 
parting  with  a  rough  break  in  which  the  fibers  of  the  bark  portion,  or  perhaps  the  whole, 
will  protrude,  showing  them  to  have  become  hardened  and  tough.  Practice  will  demonstrate 
that  in  the  difference  of  one  joint  there  is  considerable  variation  in  the  hardness  of  the  growth  ; 
it  is  always  better  to  break  or  cut  at  a  point  which  is  rather  soft  than  at  one  that  has  become  too 
hard.  Experience  will  put  the  careful  operator  in  the  way  of  determining  the  right  place  with 
scarcely  a  failure. 

To  rightly  prune  or  trim  a  cutting  it  is  required  that  the  superfluous  leaves  and  leaf  stalks  be 


1 6  THE  HOME  FLORIST. 


removed,  and  that  the  base  be  cut  away  with  a  sharp  knife.  Cuttings  of  some  plants  will  callus 
and  form  roots  at  the  base,  no  matter  whether  it  be  just  below 
a  leaf  joint  or  not,  while  others  seem  to  root  best  from  the  leaf 
joints,  and  these  should  accordingly  be  cut  off  just  below.  It 
would  be  best,  perhaps,  for  amateurs  to  cut  all  below  a  joint,  as 
with  limited  experience  they  have  little  opportunity  for  ascertaining 
which  varieties  do,  and  which  do  not,  require  it.  Fig.  17  repre- 
sents a  Geranium  shoot  as  taken  from  the  plant,  and  also  a  cutting 
ready  for  striking  made  from  it.  A  point  below  the  joint  of  the 

fourth  leaf,  counting  from  above,  was  found  in  suitable  condition 

for  the  lower  part  of  the  cutting,  and  here  the  cut  was  made  close 
J?  •      h      d  C  t   UP  to  ^e  Jomt-     ^ne  fourth  leaf  was  removed,  and  also  parts  of 
*/'      .  1^nc    ^n          ~  the  largest  remaining  leaves  were  cut  away  to  admit  air  and  light 
to   the   cutting,    which   is   especially    necessary   where   many   are 

put  in  close  together ;  this  cutting  away  the  tips  is  well  with  all  varieties  having  large  leaves, 
as  it  also  prevents  an  unnecessary  absorption  of  moisture  from  the  material  in  which  the  cutting 
is  placed  to  root. 

Clean  sand  is  the  material  usually  preferred  in  which  to  strike  cuttings.  Whether  placed  in 
a  propagating  house  where,  in  cool  or  cold  weather,  the  sand  may  be  heated  from  the  bottom, 
to  be  fifteen  degrees  warmer  than  the  air  in  the  house,  or  in  a  box  or  pan  in  the  dwelling  or 
garden,  it  should  be  about  three  inches  deep,  and  be  underlaid  by  broken  pots  or  other  material 
to  allow  for  the  escape  of  an  excess  of  water  which  it  may  chance  to  receive  occasionally. 
According  to  their  size,  cuttings  may  be  put  into  the  sand  at  various  depths  and  distances  apart, 
but  seldom  deeper  than  an  inch  for  long-jointed  cuttings,  or  less  than  a  third  or  half  inch  for 
small  ones,  and  at  such  a  distance  that  the  leaf  points  of  the  different  ones  just  touch  each  other; 
water  thoroughly  when  the  cuttings  are  first  set,  and  then  daily  or  every  other  day  as  they  require 
it,  only  guarding  against  allowing  the  surface  to  become  dry.  A  bright,  sunny  place  in  the 
window,  where  some  air  can  be  admitted,  is  the  best  place  for  the  cutting  box,  but  whenever 
the  sun  shine,s,  shade  them  by  laying  a  paper  over  them.  The  "saucer"  system  of  propagating 
plants  is  a  very  excellent  one  for  amateurs  to  practice.  It  consists  of  placing  the  cuttings  very 
close  together  in  a  water-tight  saucer  or  dish  containing  several  inches  of  sand,  and  then  keeping 
the  sand  thoroughly  saturated  with  water  until  the  cuttings  are  rooted.  There  is  not  the  least 
necessity  of  shading  the  cuttings  from  the  sun,  and  the  saucers  may  be  keep  constantly  in  its 
full  glare,  provided  sufficient  water  is  at  all  times  present. 

From  one  to  three  or  four  weeks  is  the  required  time  for  cuttings  to  root,  depending  some- 
what upon  the  condition  of  the  cutting  and  treatment  received,  but  principally  upon  the  differ- 
ence in  kinds,  some  rooting  much  sooner  than  others.  It  is  better  to  pot  them  off  as  soon  as 
the  roots  are  a  fourth  or  even  an  eighth  of  an  inch  long,  than  to  wait  until  they  become  an 
inch  or  two  long,  which  endangers  their  being  broken  off;  when  it  is  supposed  that  nearly 
sufficient  time  has  ensued  for  them  to  root,  their  state  may  be  ascertained  by  drawing  one  out 
for  examination,  which  can  be  replaced  again.  Callusing  always  directly  precedes  the  forma- 
tion of  roots ;  this  is  an  irregular  growth  which  forms  upon  the  base  or  along  the  side  of  a 
cutting,  and  its  presence  is  a  healthy  sign  that  roots  will  soon  appear.  After  the  cuttings 
have  been  potted  off,  much  the  same  care  should  be  given  them,  as  regards  shading  and  wa- 
tering, as  they  received  in  the  cutting  bed,  for  a  week,  or  until  the  roots  have  started  into 
growth  in  the  soil.  Never  put  the  most  common  plant  in  a  dirty  pot.  Never  fill  a  pot  so 
full  of  soil  but  that  it  may  receive  and  hold  water  enough  to  go  through ;  every  pot  should 
have  half  an  inch  of  vacancy  above  the  soil.  A  frost  which  could  not  reach  the  roots  of  a  pot 
plant  that  is  plunged  in  earth  to  the  rim,  may  destroy  all  the  fibres  of  even  a  hardy  one  if  the 
pot  be  exposed. 

Some  plants,  such  as  Carnations,  Roses  and  many  of  the  hardy  shrubs,  are  best  propagated 
by  layering,  especially  if  there  is  no  convenience  of  a  good  greenhouse  propagating  bed  at  hand. 
Layering  consists  in  bending  and  fastening  a  growing  branch  into 
a  slight  depression  at  the  side  of  the  plant,  covering  a  portion 
of  it  from  which  it  is  to  throw  roots,  and  allowing  the  growing 
extremity  to  extend  out  of  the  soil  to  form  a  new  plant.  In 
preparing  the  layer,  at  the  lowest  point  of  the  bend  an  oblique 
cut  is  made  from  the  under  side,  about  half  or  two-thirds  way 
through  the  branch.  This  is  done  for  the  purpose  of  preventing 
the  free  return  of  the  sap  to  the  plant,  which  greatly  promotes 
the  formation  of  roots.  Fig.  18  represents  a  Carnation  branch 
prepared  for  layering.  To  keep  a  layer  firmly  in  its  place  it 
should  be  pegged  down  as  shown  in  the  cut.  A  small  bit  of 

&•„  ,j?      T  „,<,„;*,„  ti,*  r*v>  r,    wood  or  other  substance  should  also  be  inserted  in  the  cut  to 
Fig.  18.     Lay*r™fthe  Carna'  keep  it  open  that  it  may  not  grow  together.      The  separation 
from  the  parent  plant  is  not  effected  till  the  layer  is  sufficiently 

provided  with  roots,  which  will  usually  be  in  from  six  to  twelve  weeks,  although  layers  of  some 
plants  require  a  year  or  two  to  become  rooted,  but  these  are  hardly  in  the  line  of  plants  which 
amateurs  propagate. 


THE  HOME  FLORIST. 


HANGING  BASKETS  AND  GARDEN  VASES. 

The  plants  of  drooping,  trailing  and  climb- 
ing habits  are,  with  scarcely  an  exception,  of 
easy  growth,  and  always  interesting  and  at- 
tractive, if  planted  where  their  peculiar 
growth  can  be  accommodated.  The  proper 
situations  are  afforded  by  hanging  baskets 
and  garden  vases,  which,  with  judicious 
planting,  form  very  effective  means  of 
adornment.  Hanging  baskets  are  becom- 
ing very  popular,  because  they  are  so  easily 
given  a  place  where  they  will  thrive, — 
accommodating  themselves  to  positions  such 
as  being  suspended  from  a  piazza,  or  tree,  or 
a  trellis  on  the  side  of  a  house  or  in  front  of 
a  window  afford,  thus  enabling  thousands 
of  plant  admirers  to  possess  a  luxuriant 
growth  of  plants,  and  also  flowers,  who  for 
want  of  a  garden  would  be  deprived  of 
the  pleasure.  Another  recommendation  to 
their  general  introduction,  is  their  slight 
cost,  which,  indeed,  need  be  very  little 
aside  of  the  cost  of  necessary  plants,  where 
a  person  possesses  any  skill  at  construc- 
tion. A  piece  of  strong  wire,  shaped  and 
fastened  into  a  circle,  and  several  yards 
of  lighter  wire  attached  to  it  and  woven  into 
a  sort  of  basket  or  dish-shaped  structure, 
which,  with  being  moss-lined,  will  answer 
for  holding  soil,  is  all  that  is  necessary  for 
producing  the  most  beautiful  effect.  The 
manufactured  earthen  hanging  pots,  rustic 
and  wire  baskets,  if  of  tasty  design,  are 
beautiful  for  this  purpose,  but  where  their 
expense  might  be  an  objection,  such  a  home- 
made basket  will  do  quite  well.  Persons 
unacquainted  with  plants  and  selecting  for 
this  purpose  should  discriminate  between 
droopers  or  trailers  and  climbers,  and  the 
upright  growing  plants  which  are  to  be 
used  as  "body"  to  the  display,  such  as 
Begonia,  Centaurea,  Geranium,  Cuphea, 
etc.  By  carefully  reading  descriptions 
you  will  scarcely  fail  to  make  a  suitable 
selection.  I  will  suggest  that  it  is  scarcely 
possible  to  stock  a  hanging  basket,  much 
less  a  garden  vase,  with  plants  grown  from 
seed,  as  seventy-five  or  even  more  out  of 
every  hundred  cultivators  who  have  made 
the  attempt  could  testify.  The  trouble  is, 
that  seed-grown  plants  cannot  be  reared  strong  enough  by  spring  to  make  any  show  ;  besides 
only  a  few  are  suitable,  Sweet  Alyssum,  Thunbergia,  Petunia  and  Maurandia  being  the  best  that 
can  be  recommended  and  these  should  be  sown  very  early. 

For  adorning  the  lawn,  the  terrace  or  the  garden,  nothing  can  be  finer  than  a  vase  of  chaste 
design,  made  of  iron,  stone  or  earthenware,  and  planted  with  droopers  around  the  edge,  and 
Geraniums,  Heliotropes,  Abutilons,  Fuchsias,  Caladiums,  Cannas,  or  other  attractive  flowering 
and  showy  plants  in  the  center.  Vases  are  usually  somewhat  costly,  being  manufactured  from 
expensive  material,  but  by  removing  them  into  a  shed  or  outhouse  at  the  approach  of  winter 
they  may  do  service  for  a  lifetime,  on  which  account  they  arc  not  so  expensive  after  all. 
Many  people  prefer  a  rustic  vase  to  any  other  kind  ;  these  need  not  be  costly,  as  they  are 
readily  made  in  winter  with  the  use  of  a  few  tools,  from  material  procured  from  the  woods. 

Culture  and  Treatment. — The  culture  of  vases  and  hanging'baskets  is  nearly  iden- 
tical. I  desire  to  impress  upon  the  minds  of  those  who  have  their  care  in  hand,  the  import- 
ance of  supplying  them  with  an  abundance  of  water  at  all  times  ;  especially  during  hot 
weather,  water  should  be  poured  on  them  in  sufficient  quantity  to  thoroughly  moisten  every  por- 
tion of  soil  every  time  it  is  required.  This  is  about  the  only  matter  in  which  vases  and  baskets 


Fig.  iq.    A  Hanging  Basket  of  Plants. 


1 8  THE  HOME  FLORIST. 


need  attention,  after  once  established,  and  the  difference  between  their  being  well  grown  or 
poorly  grown,  nine  times  out  of  ten,  may  be  directly  ascribed  to  the  amount  of  attention  or 
neglect  they  receive  in  this  respect.  (Temperature  32°,  45°,  80°,  except  where  noted  or  else- 
where described. ) 


Fig.  20.      Tradescanthia  ,Repens  Vittata. 

Select  List  of  Trailers  Suitable  for  Baskets,  Vases,  Trellises,  etc. 

Alternantheras.     See  description  of  varieties  in  general  list  of  plants. 

Coliseum  Ivy,  a  rapid  growing  drooper,  forming  a  dense  mass  of  long,  dark  green  foliage. 

Deeringia  Variegata,  a  beautiful  variegated  plant  of  climbing  habit.     (35°,  50°,  80°. ) 

Ficus  Repens,  an  admirable  climbing  or  drooping  plant  for  baskets,  etc.,  having  small,  almost 

round  leaves,  and  wiry  stems  ;  distinct  and  beautiful.     (40°,  50°,  80°. ) 
Gazanias.     See  description  of  varieties  in  general  list  of  plants. 
Geraniums.     See  description  of  Ivy-leaf  section  in  special  article. 
German  Ivy  (Senecio   Mikanoides),  not  an  ivy  at  all,  but   so-called  because  of  its  ivy-shaped 

leaves  ;  one  of  our  most  rapid  growing  climbers,  always  healthy,  beautiful  and  attractive  ; 

very  desirable.      (33°,  45°,  75°.) 
Isolepsis  Gracilis,  one  of  the  grasses,  forming  a  dense  plant  of  gracefully  drooping  round  blades 

of  lively  green  color,  each  bearing  a  small  tuft-like  bud  at  its  end.     (35°,  50°,  90°.) 
Ivies.     See  description  of  varieties  in  the  article  on  Ivies. 

Lobelias,   exceedingly  valuable  droopers  ;  see   description  of  varieties  in  general  list  of  plants. 
Lonicera  Aurea  Reticulata,  a  pretty  climber  ;  the  foliage  is  distinctly  reticulated  or  netted  with 

gold  upon  green  ;  very  desirable  for  trellis  culture  ;  the  root  is  hardy,  with  slight  protection. 
Lophosphernum  Scandens,  a  climber,  with  attractive  heart-shaped  foliage.   (34°,  50°,  80°. ) 
Maderia  Vine,  well-known  as  an  excellent  climber  for  both  summer  and  winter  culture,  with 

beautiful  thick  glossy  foliage  ;  excellent  to  train  up  the  window  and  for  trellis;  a  tuberous 

plant,  very  easily  grown.    The  dry  tuber  should  be  kept  in  a  warm,  dry  place  in  winter. 

(For  forcing,  34°,  50°,  90°.) 
Mahernia  Odorata,  a  beautiful  plant,  with  finely  cut  foliage,  covered  in  spring  with  very  many 

sweet-scented,  bright  yellow  flowers,  of  bell  shape;  excellent  in  pots.     (34°,  50°,  75°.) 
Maurandia  Barclayana,  a  superb  climber,  of  rapid  dense  growth,   producing  many  flowers  of 

foxglove  shape;  among  the  best  of  plants  for  covering  trellises  in  the  open  ground.      It  is 

readily  grown  from  seed,  which  should  be  sown  early.  (34°,  50°,  75°.) 
Mesembryanthemums.  See  description  of  varieties  in  general  list  of  plants. 
Mimulus  Moschatus,  the  Musk  Plant,  the  leaves  of  which  emit  a  genuine,  yet  delicate,  musky 

odor;  of  compact,   di'ooping   habit;  very  attractive  as  a  pot  plant.     It  can  be  propagated 

either  from  seed,  cuttings,  or  by  division  of  the  roots  in  the  spring.     The  plant  may  be  kept 

in  a  half  dormant  state  during  winter.      (This  and  the  following,  34°,  45°,  89°.) 
Mimulus  triginoides,    a  variety  producing  exceedingly  beautiful  golden  and   orange  flowers  of 

tubular  shape,  with  the  richest  maroon  spots  and  blotches.     Both  delight  in  moisture. 
Money  vine  (Lysimachia  nummelaria),  one  of  our  most  valuable  droopers,  has  handsome  dark 

green,  chain-like  foliage;  its   rapid   growing  shoots  will   fall  over  the  edge  of  a  vase  or 

basket,  and  grow  to  the  length  of  three  or  more  feet;  flowers  beautifully  in  June. 
Moneyvine,  Golden  (L.  nummelaria  aurea).     This  is  a  new  variety,  quite  similar  to  the  above,  in 

form  of  foliage  and  habit,  but  the  color  of  the  leaves  is  nearly  golden  yellow;  not  so  rapid 

a  grower;  I  have  not  tested  its  hardiness,  but  presume  it  will  stand  the  winter  unprotected. 


THE  HOME  FLORIST. 


Poa  trivalis,  another  fine  grass,  with  narrow  white  and  green  variegated  leaves.     (40°,  60°,  80°. ) 

Saxifraga  Sarmentosa  (Strawberry  Geranium),  a  running  strawberry-like  plant  of  curious  and 
interesting  growth,  with  striped  and  mottled  foliage;  very  valuable. 

7^orrcnia  Asiatica,  a  pretty  drooping  plant;  will  not  bear  much  cold;  flowers  blue,  of  lovely 
tint  and  shape,  and  extremely  beautiful;  excellent  for  pot  culture.  (40°,  60°,  80°. ) 

Tradescanthia  Vulgaris  (Joint  Plant — Wandering  Jew),  an  old-fashioned  drooper,  of  the  easiest 
culture,  with  beautiful  dark  glossy  foliage.  It  is  quite  certain  of  giving  satisfaction. 

Tradescanthia  Repens  Vittata.  (See  Fig.  20. )  This  is  a  Tradescanthia  of  comparative 
recent  origin,  and  is  generally  considered  to  be  the  most  beautiful  of  all  the  varieties  of 
this  desirable  family  of  plants.  The  leaves  are  beautifully  variegated,  as  shown  in  the 
engraving;  the  stripes,  which  are  of  a  clear,  waxy  white  and  whitish  yellow  color,  on  bright, 
glossy  green  ground,  extend  the  entire  length  of  the  leaf  usually.  Like  all  Tradescanthias, 
it  is  particularly  recommcndable  for  home  cultivation  either  in  baskets  or  pots,  as  it  will 
thrive  in  a  temperature  either  high  or  low,  in  a  moist  atmosphere  or  in  desert  dryness,  and 
is  not  at  all  particular  as  regards  light,  in  this  respect  being  almost  equal  to  the  Ivy. 

Tradescanthia  Zebrina,  a  variety  with  finely  striped  green  and  reddish  leaves. 

Variegated  Thyme,  very  desirable  as  a  drooper  and  bedder,  the  foliage  being  distinctly  variegated. 

Vinca  minor  vari-egata,  one  of  the  best  and  most  attractive  droopers  in  cultivation;  the  leaves 

are  from  one  to  two  inches  in  diameter,  and  distinctly  variegated;  a  rapid  grower. 
Other  suitable  varieties  are  desci'ibed  throughout  the  general  list. 


PLANT  CULTURE  IN  AND  ABOUT  THE  HOUSE. 

Among  the  readers  of  the  HOME  FLORIST  will  be  those  whose  surroundings  restrict  them  to 
engage  only  in  cultivating  plants  in  and  about  the  house,  converting  a  sunny  or  bay  window 
into  a  green-house  in  winter,  and  moving  their  plant  stand  under  the  veranda,  or  into  the  open 

air  when  warm  weather  approaches.  This, 
with  the  planting  of  an  outside  window  box  in 
summer,  the  growing  of  hanging  baskets  (see 
article  on  Hanging  Baskets  and  Garden  Vases), 
Ferneries,  or  Wardian  cases,  and  Ivies  for  per- 
manent it  might  be  added,  are  about  the  limit  to 
which  they  can  indulge  in  such  decorations.  It 
is,  however,  a  pleasure  to  know  that  with  these 
a  beautiful  show  of  plants  and  flowers  may  be 
maintained  continually  throughout  the  year, 
with  little  trouble  and  expense. 

Open- Air  Window  Boxes. — Fig.  21 
is  an  illustration  of  this  ready  means  of  grow- 
ing plants  and  flowers,  which  is  adapted  for 
ornamenting  the  windows  of  any  room,  either 
inside  or  outside,  be  it  in  the  first  or  fifth 
story  of  a  building,  as  some  living  rooms  are  in 
the  city.  These  are  boxes  made  to  fit  the  win- 
dow-casing or  sill,  and  planted  with  Scarlet 
Geranium,  Mignonette,  the  pretty  blue  Lobe- 
lia, Verbena,  and  even  Roses,  etc.  Morning 
Glory,  Ivy,  Maderia  Vine,  or  other  climbers 
are  planted  at  the  ends  of  the  box,  to  be 
trained  on  wires  up  and  around  the  windows. 
Very  beautiful. 

Plant  Culture  in  Winter.— To  learn 
what  can  be  done  at  plant  forcing  in  winter, 
under  favorable  circumstances,  it  is  only  neces- 
sary to  witness  the  extensive  crop  of  flowers  in 
large  variety  that  are  daily  cut,  and  also  the 
beautiful  foliage  plants  grown  at  this  season,  in 
the  commercial  greenhouses  of  all  large  Ameri- 
can cities  and  towns ;  and,  although  I  would 


Fig.  21.      Open- Air  Window  Box. 


not  encourage  the  thought,  that  plants  can  be  grown  to  an  equal  degree  of  perfection  in  the 
dwelling  as  in  the  florist's  well  appointed  structures,  yet  very  satisfactory  results  can  be  obtained 
by  nearly  every  one  if  the  matter  is  properly  entered  upon  and  executed,  and  beautiful,  vigorous, 
blooming  plants  be  the  result.  Sometimes  those  whose  efforts  in  growing  plants  and 
flowers  in  the  open  air  in  summer  are  bountifully  rewarded,  find  vexatious  disappointments 
attending  similar  undertakings  in  winter  greatly  to  their  surprise.  Unquestionably,  the 
cause  of  this  lies  more  frequently  in  the  fact  that  the  necessary  course  of  treatment  is  not  suffi- 
ciently understood,  than  that  the  conditions  of  light,  heat,  etc.,  which  the  dwelling  affords,  are 


20  THE  HOME  FLORIST. 


unfavorable  to  plant  life.  These  latter  conditions  have  their  marked  influence  on  growth  it  is 
true,  but,  then,  the  adaptability  of  plants  is  so  varied,  that  at  least  several  varieties  may  be 
employed,  which  will  thrive  under  any  circumstances,  that  are  likely  to  exist  in  our  dwellings. 
In  "Open-Air  Floriculture"  are  given  directions  for  preparing  plants  for  winter  flowering. 

The  Winter  Quarters. — Next  to  a  conservatory,  built  expressly  for  plants,  a  bay 
window,  off  from  the  living  room,  and  from  which  it  will  receive  sufficient  warmth,  is  the  best 
place  for  cultivating  plants  in  winter,  although  a  window  facing  east,  south  or  west,  answers  the 
purpose  very  well,  and  should  we  even  be  less  fortunate  and  have  only  windows  with  northern 
exposure,  where  the  sun  in  winter  never  strikes  in,  there  is  no  need  of  being  entirely  deprived  of 
the  beauty  of  plants  and  flowers,  because  the  Ivies,  Begonias,  Euonymus,  Callas,  Tradescanthias, 
Lobelias,  Achryanthes,  Centaureas,  etc.,  and,  perhaps,  most  important  of  all,  the  entire  list  of 
Hardy  Bulbs,  for  fl6wers,  all  of  which  readily  dispense  with  direct  sunlight,  will  thrive  beauti- 
fully here,  provided  the  conditions  of  heat,  air,  moisture,  etc.,  are  correct.  But  these  are 
essential  to  plant  growth  under  any  other  circumstances  as  well. 

Temperature,  Selection  of  Suitable  Plants,  Protection,  etc. — The 
amateur,  who,  for  the  first  time  perhaps,  might  desire  to  engage  in  the  cultivation  of  plants  in 
winter,  would  naturally  be  anxious  to  know,  What  plants  can  best  be  grown  in  my  house? 
The  answer  to  this  question  is  easily  arrived  at  by  each  of  us,  provided  the  temperature  which 
can  be  maintained  for  the  plants  is  known,  and  also  the  temperature  in  which  the  various  plants 
suited  to  winter  culture  will  best  thrive.  Recall  to  your  mind  the  lowest  temperature  of 
previous  seasons,  as  indicated  by  the  thermometer,  or  if  you  were  without  this  almost  indis- 
pensable instrument,  recollect  whether  it  ever  fell  to  32° — the  freezing  point — and  allow  this 
knowledge  to  be  your  guide  on  the  one  hand,  while  for  guidance  in  reference  to  making 
selections  suited  to  your  temperature,  observe  the  figures  and  degrees  in  parenthesis  following 
the  names  of  the  varieties  described  throughout  this  work  as  suitable  for  window  culture.  These 
figures  indicate  the  extremes  of  temperature,  both  high  and  low,  that  each  plant  will  bear,  and 
also  the  degree  most  congenial  to  its  growth,  as  a  night  temperature.  To  render  this  more  clear, 
let  us  take  as  an  instance  the  Abutilons,  described  on  the  34th  page.  The  descriptions  and 
cultural  directions  of  this  family  are  preceded  by  (33,  45,  85°),  which  indicates  that  these  plants 
will  bear  a  temperature  of  33°  as  one  extreme  and  85°  as  the  other,  for  some  time  without 
injury,  while  45°  is  best  suited  to  the  plant  as  a  night  temperature ;  ten  to  twenty-five  degrees 
above  this  is  to  be  considered  nearest  right  for  their  growth  in  the  daytime. 

The  various  varieties  of  the  Ivy  family  possess  so  many  desirable  qualities  as  house  plants, 
and  will  thrive  under  such  widely  varying  conditions,  that  they  are  recommendable  to  all 
cultivators  as  a  class  with  which  failure  to  cultivate  successfully  is  scarcely  possible. 

It  should  be  understood  in  this  connection  that  plants  can  be  safely  kept  through  several 
additional  degrees  of  cold  than  indicated  by  t\\e  first  figure  (lowest  extreme)  by  protection,  and 
it  is  safe  to  calculate  somewhat  on  this  for  the  few  excessively  severe  nights  of  each  winter,  by 
giving  the  more  tender  ones  especial  attention  at  such  times.  Simply  pinning  several  thick- 
nesses of  newspaper  over  a  plant,  as  shown  in  the  annexed  cut, 
would  protect  it  sufficiently  for  remaining  a  number  of  hours  in  a 
temperature  from  five  to  ten  degrees  lower  than  it  would  otherwise 
bear.  Ordinarily  where  danger  is  apprehended  from  leaving 
plants  next  to  the  window,  during  severe  nights,  they  can  be 
moved  to  the  middle  or  further  side  of  the  room,  which  is  sure 
to  be  several  degrees  warmer.  By  setting  them  close  together 
it  is  easy  to  protect  the  lot  by  spreading  newspapers  on  them 
and  throwing  a  blanket  over  all.  To  correct  too  high  a  tempera- 
ture admit  air  from  the  outside. 

General  Directions  for  Indoor  Plant  Manage- 
ment*— Airing. — As  often  as  the  weather,  from  its  mildness,  will 
allow  of  introducing  air  among  the  plants,  from  the  outside,  it 
should  be  done,  but  be  careful  to  avoid  a  strong,  direct  draft  of 
wind  upon  them.  Cold,  fresh  air  striking  on  Roses  may  bring  on 
mildew.  Maintain  a  temperature  as  nearly  uniform  as  possible, 
endeavoring  to  keep  it  at  a  degree  best  suited  \o  the  majority  of 
the  plants  in  the  collection,  being  guided  in  this  respect  by  the 
figures  in  parenthesis  throughout  the  descriptions. 
Fig.  22.  Protection.  Moisture  and  Watering. — One  difficulty  amateurs  have  to  con- 

tend with  in  growing  plants  in  the  living  room — especially  if  heated  with  anthracite  coal  stoves 
and  I'anges — is  dryness  of  the  atmosphere.  This  can  in  a  measure  be  obviated  by  nailing  a  narrow 
strip  of  board  on  the  front  and  back  edges  of  the  plant-stand  shelves,  or  false  bottom  of  the 
window  sill,  and  filling  up  with  three-fourths  of  an  inch  of  sand,  upon  which  the  pots  are  to  be 
placed;  keep  the  sand  quite  wet.  The  moisture  escaping  is  what  counteracts  the  dryness  of  the 
air.  It  will  improve  appearances  to  cover  the  surface  between  the  pots  with  moss.  Sprinkle 
the  foliage  of  plants  occasionally,  and  whenever  the  surface  of  the  earth  shows  signs  of  dryness, 
water  so  that  the  soil  be  saturated  and  no  more.  Too  much  water  passing  through  impoverishes 
the  soil  in  a  short  time,  besides  doing  the  plant  no  good.  As  a  rule,  never  allow  water  to  stand 
in  the  saucers  as  it  tends  to  sour  the  earth. 


THE  HOME  FLORIST. 


21 


Insects. — If  any  plants  become  infested  with  Aphis  or  Green-fly -,  take  a  handful  of  tobacco 
stems,  steep  in  water  until  it  looks  like  strong  tea,  and  wash  the  affected  foliage,  or  else 
fumigate  the  plants  by  burning  tobacco  stems.  The  presence  of  Red  Spider  indicates  too 
dry  an  atmosphere.  Any  plants  affected  should,  several  times  daily,  receive  a  thorough 
sprinkling  or  washing  with  water.  Meally  Bug  and  Scale,  if  they  appear,  may  be  exterminated 
by  washing  and  brushing  the  affected  part  of  the  plant.  To  remove  Angle  Worms,  plants 
should  be  tapped  out  of  the  pots  and  the  worms  picked  from  the  ball  of  earth. 

Pruning,  etc. — Any  tendency  in  plants  to  become  irregular  in  shape  or  too  tall,  should  be 
corrected  by  pinching.  Unless  it  is  desirable  to  have  a  showy  window,  as  seen  from  the 
street,  the  pots  should  be  turned  frequently,  to  prevent  the  plants  from  growing  towards  the  light. 

Ferneries  and  Wardian  Cases. — Lovers  of  plants  and  flowers  should  by  no  means 
overlook  the  advantages,  presented  by  these  novel  and  successful  appliances,  for  growing 

plants  in  the  dwelling  in    the    autumn,  winter   and    spring. 
Dryness   of    atmosphere    and    dust   are    among    the    detri- 
mental influences  which  we  meet  in  winter  plant  culture,  but 
by  adopting  the  Wardian  case  principle  of  growing  plants, 
these   are   entirely   avoided,    and    instead,   a   uniform   moist 
atmosphere   is   secured,    which   is    altogether    congenial    to 
plant   growth,   no   matter   how    dry  the  air   outside   in    the 
drawing  room  or  parlor  may  be.     A  glass  case  or  shade  is 
the  principal  agent  employed. 
This    is    placed    over    plants 
growing  in   a  vase  or  stand, 
to  which  it  is  fitted,  and  com- 
pletely surrounding  the  plants. 
It  retains  the  moisture  of  the 
atmosphere,     and    constantly 
returns    it   to    the   bed,    thus 
also   making  frequent  water- 
ingunnecessary.    Usually 
plants  with  striking  foli- 
age    are     employed     in 
Fernery    culture,     the 
Ferns  and  Lycopodiums 
being    especially    prized 
for  the  purpose,  although 
all  mentioned  in  the  de- 
scriptions,   including  the 
flowering  Begonias,    are 


Fig.  23.     Round  Fernery. 


Square  Fernery. 


quite  as  suitable.  After  planting  the  Fernery,  the  only  care  necessary  to  its  management  is 
to  prop  up  the  glass  on  one  side,  or  entirely  remove  it  for  a  short  time  daily  after  the  mottling 
dusting,  and  decaying  flowers  or  foliage  should  be  removed.  Water  should  be  given  only  when 
the  surface  of  the  soil  becomes  dry,  which  will  not  be  often. 

Culture  of  Hyacinths  and  other  Hardy  Bulbs  in  Glasses,  Pots,  etc. , 
for  Winter  Decoration. — Taking  advantage  of  the  peculiarity  of  these  bulbs  to  grow 
and  flower  freely  in  any  medium  capable  of  retaining  moisture,  we  find  it  easy,  with  a  little 
forethought,  to  have  a  profusion  of  bloom  in  the  house  or  conservatory  during  the  winter, 
and  the  presence  of  their  brilliant  colors  among  the  various  pot  plants  is  very  desirable 
for  adding  to  the  attractiveness  of  the  winter  collection.  Whether  bulbs  are  grown  in  glasses 
of  water  or  in  pots,  vases,  or  other  articles,  they  should,  in  either  case,  to  make  a  complete 
success  of  the  undertaking,  be  removed  after  planting,  to  a  cellar,  or  any  cool,  dark  place,  here 
to  remain  six  or  eight  weeks,  for  the  purpose  of  causing  a  growth  of  roots  before  the  leaves  and 
flower  stems  start  into  growth.  From  this  place  they  can  be  brought  directly  into  the  parlor  or 
conservatory  where  they  are  to  flower.  The  difference  of  a  week  or  two  between  the  periods 
of  starting  will  produce  a  corresponding  difference  in  the  periods  of  bloom.  When  growing 
Hyacinths  or  Crocus  in  the  glasses  made  for  the  purpose,  it  is  necessary  to  see  that  the  base  of 
the  bulb,  only,  touches  the  water ;  also,  after  admitting  to  the  light,  the  water  should  be  changed 
occasionally.  In  pot,  box  or  vase  culture,  bulbs  should  be  planted  one-third  or  one-half  of  their 
heights  in  the  soil  or  other  material  employed,  moderately  pressing  the  same  around  the  bulb 
and  applying  water  sufficient  to  soak  thoroughly  before  placing  into  the  dark  quarters  above 
alluded  to.  Bulbous  plants  of  any  kind  should  never  be  allowed  to  suffer  for  lack  of  water 
while  in  a  growing  state.  A  very  good  course  to  pursue  in  managing  bulbs  in  glasses,  is  by  first 
starting  them  in  clean  sand  in  some  cool  place,  and  after  they  have  become  well  rooted,  trans- 
ferring them  to  the  glasses,  first  washing  all  sand  from  the  roots.  Dark  colored  glasses  are 
preferable  to  clear  ones  for  bulb  culture.  Any  attempt  at  forcing  the  hardy  bulbs  will  be  quite 
certain  of  being  attended  with  successful  results,  only  take  care  that  the  temperature  be  not  too 
high  where  they  are  to  flower.  The  flowers  Mail  develop  most  beautifully  in  a  rather  cool 
place,  where  the  thermometer,  however,  never  falls  to  the  freezing  point,  for,  although  a  slight 
freeze  will  not  destroy  them,  it  will  lessen  the  beauty  of  the  flowers. 


22 


THE  HOME  FLORIST. 


THE 


Fig.  25. 

AMATEUR'S    CONSERVATORY. 


A  well  managed  Plant  Conservatory  opening  from  the  living  room,  and  accessible  at 
all  times,  is,  perhaps,  the  most  beautiful  and  ever-changing  source  of  recreation  that  can  be 
introduced  in  connection  with  the  home,  and  in  consideration  of  the  attractive  features  it  pos- 
sesses is  comparatively  an  inexpensive  source  of  gratification,  particularly  if  the  duties  connected 
with  its  management  are  discharged  by  the  patrons  of  its  innumerable  stores  of  interest. 

The  subject  of  conservatories  is,  at  the  present  time,  comparatively  new  and  unde- 
veloped. This  is  especially  true  outside  of  our  large  cities,  and  doubtless  many  amateurs  have 
given  the  subject  of  possessing  one  some  consideration,  only  to  finally  drop  it  entirely  with  the 
belief  that,  however  desirable  this  would  be,  the  erection  of  one  for  a  moderate  amount,  and  the 
after  management  of  it,  would,  in  their  case,  be  hardly  practical,  if  not  wholly  impossible. 

It  is  my  desire  to  present,  in  the  pages  of  the  HOME  FLORIST,  such  facts  and  suggestions 
relative  to  building,  stocking  and  managing  home  conservatories  as  experience  points  out  as 
being  applicable  to  the  wants  of  amateur  florists,  hoping  by  these  means  to  remove  erroneous 
impressions,  and  enable  the  reader  to  view  the  matter  in  a  proper  and  practical  light. 

Utility  of  a  Conservatory. — With  the  erection  of  a  suitable  structure,  cut  flowers 
for  bouquets  and  other  means  of  adornment  can  be  grown  quite  as  well  in  winter  as  in  the  open 
ground  in  summer,  thus  affording  a  continuous  season  of  flowers;  besides,  all  beautiful  and  rare 
plants  may  be  grown  of  large  size,  and  to  greater  perfection  than  is  possible,  without  means  of 
the  perpetual  growing  state  of  atmosphere  which  should  here  exist,  and  young  plants  for  the  flower 
garden,  hanging  baskets  and  other  purposes  can  be  propagated  and  reared  without  addi- 
tional expense,  while  vegetable  and  flower  seeds  of  all  kinds  may  be  started  into  growth.  These 
various  last-named  items,  with  the  growing  of  flowers,  which  would  otherwise  be  bought 
at  the  florist's  greenhouses  in  winter,  may  be  made  to  go  far  towards  balancing  the  expense  and 
investment  account.  Besides,  in  most  small  towns,  where  no  regular  florist  is  located,  or  in  the 
rural  districts,  the  home  conservatory,  aside  of  serving  the  purpose  for  which  it  was  intended, 
might  readily  be  made  self-supporting,  and  more,  if  those  who  have  the  management  in  hand 
would  desire  to  engage  in  growing  a  stock  of  plants  and  some  extra  hanging  baskets,  and  offer- 
ing them  for  sale  at  a  reasonable  price.  They  would  be  surprised  to  see  how  eagerly  neighbors 
and  friends  would  purchase  all  their  surplus  that  could  be  spared,  in  the  spring,  when  the  plants 
Avoulcl  be  in  full  vigor  and  flower.  I  also  venture  the  assertion,  that  were  more  cut  flowers 
and  nice  foliage  grown  in  winter,  than  would  be  needed  for  home  use,  by  making  such  fact 
known,  a  demand  could  easily  be  created  for  them  at  paying  prices,  to  be  used  for  bouquets  and 
decorating  at  weddings,  parties,  etc.  I  make  these  suggestions  in  the  belief  that  in  thous- 
ands of  vicinities  throughout  our  country  persons  might  combine  profit  with  pleasure  in  cultivat- 
ing plants  and  flowers  in  the  conservatory  with  the  most  pleasing  results.  Ladies  and  young 
people,  especially,  would  find  this  a  pleasing  and  fascinating  employment  for  spare  moments, 
and  one  devoid  of  heavy  or  irksome  toil. 


THE  PIOME  FLORIST. 


23 


Plans  and  Approximate  Cost. — Although  con- 
servatories that  are  erected  in  connection  with  the  home  are 
usually  built  in  costly  style,  and  to  serve  an  ornamental  purpose 
in  an  architectural  sense,  I  would  by  no  means  have  it 
inferred  that  a  good  one  cannot  be  erected  for  quite 
a  small  sum  of  money.  I  can  call  to  mind  structures  of 
this  kind,  on  private  places,  that  have  cost  various  figures,  from 
$2,000  or  $3,000  each,  down  to  $100  and  less.  One  very 
simple  structure,  which  is  heated  by  an  ordinary  base-burn- 
ing coal  stove,  and  in  which,  at  any  time,  can  be  seen  a 
_  fine  growth  of  plants,  hanging  baskets  and  flowers,  has  pleased 
me  so  much  that  I  have  had  an  engraving  made  of  the  ground 


Fig. 


D 


26.     End  View  of  a  Cheap   pian  (Fig.  27).  The  building  is  ten  feet  by  twelve  feet,  and  is 
Conservatory.  seven  feet  to  the  rafters  at  the  lower  end  it  being  a  lean-to 

against  the  dwelling.  The  beds  or  benches  are  two  and  a  half 
feet  high,  and  nearly  two  feet  wide.  On  the  floor  at  the  sides 
and  ends  of  the  aquarium,  are  placed  tall  plants,  such  as  the 
side  •  benches  will  not  accommodate.  In  case  an  aquarium 
were  not  wanted,  a  plant  bench  might  be  built  up  a  foot  or 
more  from  the  floor  in  its  stead.  The  sides  of  the  house  from 
the  benches  upward  are  of  glass,  and  the  ventilators  are  fixed 
in  the  roof.  The  rafters  support  a  number  of  fine  growing 
hanging  baskets  and  altogether  the  house  is  quite  complete, 
and  cost  the  owner,  perhaps,  inside  of  $60. 

The  large  view  shown  of  a  conservatory,  above  Fig.  25, 
represents  a  house,  size  sixteen  by  twenty-four  feet,  the  cost  of 
which  would  be  $700  and  upwards,  if  heated  in  the  most 


Fig.  27.    A  Ground  Plan. 
A  represents  the  coal  stove  ;   B,  a 

approved  style,  with  hot  water  boiler,  and  one  hundred  and  ^creen  placed  at  a  height  allowing  the 
fifty  to  two  hundred  feet  of  four-inch  cast  iron  pipe.  The  0^  i^-^acquaVium^or  plam^blnch- 
same  sized  house  might,  however,  be  built  in  plain,  durable  L),  plant  'bench ;  E,  water  barrel  of 
style,  similar  to  Fig.  26,  for  about  half  that  figure  and  be  pre-  sink ;  F,  entrance  from  dwelling, 
cisely  as  valuable  for  plant  growing,  while  by  employing  another  means  of  heating,  which  is 
very  extensively  in  use  by  florists,  being  much  cheaper,  namely,  the  brick  furnace  and  flue,  the 
cost  might  again  be  lessened  $150,  which  would  bring  the  entire  cost  down  to  $200,  and  per- 
haps even  less,  for  quite  a  large-sized  house.  By  building  of  smaller  dimensions  than  sixteen 
by  twenty-four  feet  the  cost  would  be  proportionately  less.  In  a  house  like  that  represented  in 
Fig.  25,  the  ventilators  for  admitting  fresh  air  consist  of  the  side  sashes,  of  the  raised  portion  of 
the  roof ;  these  are  hung  by  hinges  above,  and  are  worked  by  means  of  pulleys  or  rods  from  the 
interior.  The  roof  of  Fig.  26  is  built  more  simple,  and  consists  of  sashes,  which  reach  from  the 
plate  board  to  the  ridge  piece.  Every  alternate  sash  serves  the  purpose  of  a  ventilator,  by  being 
hinged  on  the  plate  or  gutter  board,  and  is  raised  or  lowered  by  mean  of  a  light  iron  bar  eight- 
een inches  long,  with  holes  in,  attached  to  the  top  of  the  sash,  and  which  is  secured  to  a  nail 
in  the  ridge  piece.  Fig.  28  represents  the  cross  section  of  this  house,  showing  the  internal 
arrangement  of  the  beds  and  walks,  and  also  the  brick  flues  for  heating,  which  are  under  the 
side  beds.  The  walks  should  be  two  and  a  half  to  three  feet  wide,  and  extend  from  the  dwell- 
ing entrance  to  the  outside  door  on  each  side  of  the  middle  bed.  A  shows  a  cross  section  of 
bed  in  a  house,  heated  by  two  four-inch  hot  water  pipes.  The  brick  furnace  or  the  hot  water 
boiler  for  heating,  may  be  placed  to  be  fed  with  fuel,  from  the  basement  of  the  dwelling. 

In  heating  with  a  hot  water  boiler  and  pipes  the  heat  is  imparted  to  the  atmosphere  inside 
the  structure  by  laying  the  pipes  from  the  boiler  in  one  continuous  line  throughout  the  building, 
under  the  beds,  and  returning  to  the  boiler  again.  The  smoke  from  the  boiler  may  be  con- 
ducted to  the  chimney  of  the  dwelling.  Through  these  pipes  the  water  circulates,  continually 
flowing  from  and  returning  into  the  boiler  while  the  latter  is  heated.  It  becomes  necessary  to 
turn  the  course  of  the  pipes  at  the  corners,  and  at  the  extreme  end  by  means  of  elbows,  but  this 
does  not  materially  retard  the  circulation.  With  furnace  and  flue  heating  it  is  different;  here  the 

heat  is  distributed  directly  from  the  latter,  which  is  built 
to  pass  nearly  around  the  house,  under  the  side  beds,  with 
a  gradual  ascent  the  entire  distance,  to  give  draft,  opening 
into  a  chimney  built  at  the  side  of  the  conservatory  near 
the  house  end.  At  the  outside  door  it  will  be  necessary  to 
cover  the  pipes  or  flue  with  a  low  platform  raised  six  or 
more  inches  above  them.  The  sides  and  ends  of  a  con- 
servatory, up  to  the  glass,  should  be  built  by  boarding 
against  the  studs  with  matched  flooring,  the  tongue  side 
up,  both  inside  and  outside;  by  lining  the  outside  with 
tarred  building  felt  or  boards  against  the  studs,  it  will  be 
warmer.  After  the  wood  work  is  finished  it  should  receive 
several  coats  of  paint,  white  being  the  color  generally 
Fig.  28.  preferred. 


2 4  THE  HOME  FLORIST. 


Winter  Management, — The  conservatory  in  winter  should  be  kept  at  as  uniform  a 
temperature  in  the  night  time — that  is  one  night  with  another — as  possible,  and  at  a  figure 
adapted  to  the  requirements  of  the  majority  of  the  collection.  I  say  night  time,  because  the 
inside  atmosphere  is  not  then  affected  by  influences  of  sun  and  clouds,  which  renders  it  easier 
thus  to  give  and  observe  directions,  besides  in  the  day  time  a  uniform  temperature  is  undesirable, 
as  plants  in  the  conservatory  require  more  heat  when  it  is  sunny  than  in  cloudy  weather.  This 
should  be  carefully  observed  by  inexperienced  operators.  A  thermometer  is  indispensable  to 
indicate  the  temperature.  A  temperature  of  70°  or  even  above,  will  suit  any  kind  of  plants, 
when  the  sun  shines,  provided  air  is  admitted  at  the  same  time,  while  in  cloudy  days  more  than 
IO°  above  a  suitable  night  temperature  should  be  guarded  against  by  checking  the  fire  or  admit- 
ting air.  When  airing,  do  not  open  the  ventilators  so  much  at  once,  as  to  greatly  affect  the  tem- 
perature ;  a  little  air  daily  is  desirable  if  the  weather  is  not  too  severe.  In  warm  spring,  sum- 
mer and  autumn  weather  the  ventilators  may  be  kept  wholly  or  partially  open  all  the  while. 
When  the  surface  of  the  soil  in  pots  indicates  dryness,  water  should  be  freely  applied  with  the 
watering  pots,  as  plants  are  easily  injured  by  becoming  too  dry.  Looking  over  the  collection 
every  second  day  in  winter,  and  daily  in  spring,  watering  where  it  is  required,  is  none  too  often; 
in  a  house  heated  with  the  flue  it  is  necessary  to  water  daily  over  the  hottest  part.  Water  occa- 
sionally sprinkled  over  the  plants  renders  the  air  humid,  which  is  beneficial  to  all  kinds  of  plant 
growths.  The  matter  under  head  of  a  Classification  of  the  Amateur's  Work  for  Every  Week 
in  the  Year,  contains  much  other  important  information  that  has  a  bearing  on  conservatory 
management  in  winter  as  well  as  summer. 

Summer  Manar/ement. — If  the  glass  roof  be  whitened  on  the  outside  with  a  thin  wash 
made  of  quicklime  and  water,  the  home  conservatory  can  be  made  a  most  delightful  place  all 
summer,  otherwise  the  scorching  rays  of  the  summer  sun  would  create  a  heat  of  sufficient 
intensity  to  nearly  or  quite  cause  the  destruction  of  all  plant  life  in  the  building;  this  wash 
should  be  applied  about  the  first  of  June.  With  doors  and  ventilators  open,  by  dashing  water 
on  the  walks,  and  profusely  sprinkling  and  watering  the  plants,  etc.,  the  atmosphere  maybe 
kept  agreeable,  and  hanging  baskets  and  all  plants  will  thrive  amazingly,  particularly  if  abun- 
dant pot  room  has  been  afforded  the  latter.  With  the  return  of  August  and  the  two  following 
months,  the  securing  of  plants  from  the  open  ground  will  require  attention,  and  fire  heat 
may  be  started  a  little  in  cool  nights,  but  during  the  day,  as  late  as  possible  in  the  season,  the 
ventilators  should  be  kept  open.  Always  have  a  little  sand  on  the  benches  where  pots  are  set. 

Propafffltion  of  all  kinds  of  plants  may  be  successfully  done  at  any  time  in  the  con- 
servatory. The  bed  in  which  the  cuttings  are  struck  should  be  boarded  up  on  the  sides,  under- 
neath, to  cause  the  heat  from  the  pipes  or  flue  to  rise  up  through  the  sand,  for  imparting  the 
desired  bottom  heat  to  the  bed.  See  special  article  on  the  subject  of  Propagation. 

Insects,  etc. — Aphis  or  Green-fly  are  very  common  intruders ;  these  may  be  destroyed,  and 
also  prevented,  by  dampening  one-fourth  or  one-half  pound  of  dry  refuse  tobacco  or  stems  from 
the  cigar  maker,  and  after  placing  it  on  a  handful  of  shavings  or  live  coals,  on  the  ground  or 
stone  floor,  burning  to  ashes.  The  smoke  thus  produced  may  be  strong  enough  to  be  insup- 
portable to  human  lungs  and  senses,  without  affecting  plants.  The  presence  of  Red  Spider 
indicates  too  dry  an  atmosphere,  which  should  be  corrected  by  dashing  water  about  the  house. 
Any  plants  affected  by  this  insect  should  daily  receive  a  thorough  sprinkling  or  washing  of  water. 
Mealy  Bug  and  Scale  may  be  exterminated  by  washing  and  brushing  the  affected  part  of  the 
plant.  To  remove  Angle  Worms,  plants  should  be  tapped  out  of  the  pots,  and  the  worms 
picked  from  the  ball  of  earth.  Should  mildew  at  any  time  put  in  an  appearance,  scatter  a  little 
flour  of  sulphur  over  the  plants  after  the  foliage  is  wet  from  watering. 

COLD  PITS  FOR  WINTER  PROTECTION.— A  cold  pit,  made  by  excavating  the 
soil  in  some  dry  spot  in  the  garden,  to  the  depth  of  two  feet  and  upwards,  and  of  a  size  suitable 
to  be  covered  with  glass  sash,  forms  one  of  the  most  inexpensive  and  efficient  appliances  that 
can  be  introduced  into  the  flower  garden.  It  will  answer  the  purpose  of  wintering  tender  Roses, 
Carnations,  and  many  other  plants,  much  better  than  a  cellar,  especially  if  the  latter  is  too  dark, 
too  damp  or  too  warm ;  and,  besides,  provides  a  means  of  keeping  up  a  succession  of  flowers  of 
Alba  Fimbriata  and  other  Pinks,  Roses,  Deutzia,  Iberis,  Violets,  Lily  of  the  Valley,  etc., 
during  the  winter  in  the  house  or  conservatory,  by  carefully  taking  these  up  from  the  garden,  and 
after  potting,  storing  them  in  the  cold  pit,  until  they  are  brought  into  the  heat  and  better  light, 
which  may  be  done  at  intervals  during  the  winter  and  spring.  Indeed,  a  conservatory  can 
hardly  be  considered  completely  equipped  without  a  cold  pit  near  at  hand  to  serve  such  a  pur- 
pose. The  sash  used  to  cover  the  pit  may  be  similar  to  those  made  for  hot-beds,  an  ordinary 
size  being  six  feet  long,  by  three  and  one-half  feet  wide.  The  sides  against  the  soil  should  be 
boarded  up  or  walled  up  with  brick  or  stone,  which  should  run  a  foot  above  the  surface  at  the 
rear,  and  nine  inches  above  it  on  the  front  side,  the  top  of  the  end  walls  having  a  regular  slope 
from  rear  to  front,  and  all  finished  to  give  support  to  the  sash.  Bank  up  the  part  of  the  wall 
that  projects  above  the  surface,  and  scatter  an  inch  or  two  of  coal  ashes  or  gravel  in  the  bottom 
of  the  pit,  on  which  to  place  the  plants.  About  all  the  attention  such  a  pit  requires  after  the 
plants  are  in,  is  to  ventilate  when  the  weather  will  allow,  and  to  cover  the  glass  with  shutters  or 
mats  of  straw  or  other  material,  sufficient  to  keep  out  hard  frost  in  severe  cold  weather.  Aside 
from  one  thorough  watering  when  plants  are  potted,  water  should  be  sparingly  given  during  winter. 


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25 


Fig.  29.     Climbing  Rose — Gem  of  the  Prairie. 

THE    ROSE    FAMILY. 

As  a  rule  I  think  experienced  cultivators  are  all  ready  to  admit  that  Roses  are  easier  to  rear, 
in  proportion  to  their  value,  than  any  other  family  of  plants  in  cultivation ;  and  yet  there  is 
scarcely  a  subject  connected  with  floriculture,  in  which  amateurs  generally  realize  so  great  a 
lack  of  knowledge,  as  on  the  subject  of  Roses  and  their  management.  This  can  be  accounted 
for  by  the  fact  that  the  family  is  extensive  and  greatly  diversified,  and  consequently  rather  diffi- 
cult to  comprehend  and  become  intimately  acquainted  with ;  but  by  carefully  discriminating 
between  the  various  classes  into  which  the  family  is  divided,  bearing  in  mind  the  nature,  adap- 
tability and  also  treatment  of  each,  there  need  be  no  more  difficulty  in  becoming  familiar  with 
their  culture,  than  with  the  cultivation  of  Lilacs  and  other  hardy  shrubs,  Geraniums,  or  the 
tropical  Coleus  or  Cannas,  whose  real,  individual  requirements,  although  simple  and  generally 
understood,  are  together  quite  as  varied,  as  are  the  different  classes  of  Roses,  but  as  they  do  not 
belong  to  one  natural  family,  and  are  known  each  by  the  distinct  name  it  bears,  their  culture 
collectively  appears  more  simple.  Being  desirous  of  rendering  all  possible  aid  in  making  Rose 
culture  as  popular  as  it  deserves  to  be,  I  have  treated  the  subject,  with  due  regard  to  simplifying 


26  THE  HOME  FLORIST. 


it,  by  treating  upon  the  Hardy  and  Tender  divisions  of  the  family  separately,  and  then  describing 
the  classes  that  are  included  in  each,  following  up  with  directions  for  cultivating  and  managing 
the  plants  in  summer  and  winter. 

HARDY  ROSES. 

This  division  of  Roses  includes  the  classes  Hybrid  Perpetual,  June  or  Summer,  Climbing, 
Moss,  etc. ,  and  are  all  noted  for  their  hardiness  and  easy  culture. 

HYBRID  PERPETUAL  ROSES.— This  is  by  far  the  most  desirable  class  of  hardy 
Roses  for  general  cultivation,  being  vigorous  and  robust  in  habit  and  producing  flowers, 
usually  very  fragrant,  that  for  immense  size,  perfect  form  and  gorgeous  and  brilliant  colors  are 
unequaled.  This  class  is  of  comparative  recent  introduction,  having  originated  from  hybrid- 
izing the  June  or  Summer  Rose  with  the  ever-blooming  section.  Although  the  name  would 
indicate  the  quality  of  blooming  perpetually,  only  some  varieties  are  strictly  deserving  of  the 
term,  as  they  flower  freely  but  once  in  early  summer,  after  which  they  can  not  be  depended 
upon  for  more  than  a  few  flowers;  but  as  an  offset  to  such  mis-application  of  the  term 
"  perpetual,"  the  flowers  of  these  varieties  are  likely  to  be  possessed  of  more  than  ordinary 
perfect  form,  fragrance  or  color.  The  more  prolific  varieties,  however,  not  only  produce  a 
wealth  of  flowers  in  June  and  July,  but  again  at  intervals  during  the  summer,  with  usually  an 
increase  towards  autumn.  Although  this  class  is  comparatively  hardy  in  this  latitude,  it  is 
always  best  to  protect  with  straw  in  winter.  The  remarks  elsewhere  relative  to  removing 
matured  flowers  apply  with  particular  stress  to  Hybrid  Perpetual  Roses. 

JUNE  OR  SUMMER  ROSES.— The  varieties  of  this  class  are  all  perfectly  hardy, 
free  growers,  producing  an  abundant  crop  of  flowers  in  June  or  early  summer,  and  will 
thrive  in  any  soil  and  under  almost  any  circumstances.  Specimens  of  this  class  are  to  be  found 
in  nearly  every  garden  in  the  country.  Many  of  the  improved  varieties  are  very  desirable. 
The  Hybrid  China,  Damask  and  Provence  sections  belong  to  this  class. 

HARDY  CLIMBING  ROSES.— This  class,  of  which  the  Prairie  Roses  are  the  prin- 
cipal varieties,  are  adapted  for  covering  walls,  trellises,  arbors,  etc.  They  are  well  known 
for  their  perfect  hardiness,  rapid  growth,  fine  foliage  and  beautiful  and  finely-shaped  flowers, 
comprising  many  different  colors.  Gem  of  the  Prairie,  of  which  an  illustration  is  given  (Fig.  29), 
is  noticeable  as  one  of  the  best  of  this  class. 

MOSS  ROSES. — An  elegant  and  well  known  class  of  Roses,  in  most  varieties  producing 
large  clusters  of  buds,  entirely  covered  with  a  delicate,  mossy  growth  which  renders  them  the 
perfection  of  beauty  while  in  a  bud  or  half  open  state. 

VARIETIES  OF  HARDY  ROSES. — To  distinguish  the  classes,  the  following  abbreviations  are 
used  in  the  description  of  varieties :  H.  Perp.,  Hybrid  Perpetual;  Climb.,  Climbing. 
Achille  Gounad  (H.  Perp.),  deep  rose  and  crimson;  full  form,  and  large  size. 
Anna  de  Diesbach  (H.  Perp.),  bright  rosy  carmine;  a  fine,  large  showy  variety. 
Augusta  Mie  (H.  Perp.),  clear  waxy  rose,  large  and  finely  cupped,  very  fragrant;  an  excellent 

Rose. 
Baltimore  Belle  ( Climb.),  white  with  blush  tint,  very  compact  and  double;  of  rapid  growth; 

one  of  the  best  of  the  class  ;  excellent. 

Baron  Prevost  (H.  Perp.),  bright  rose  shaded  with  crimson;  large,  free  bloomer. 
Beauty  of  Waltham  (H.   Perp.),  bright  rosy  crimson,  very  large  and  fragrant,  free  bloomer; 

should  be  in  every  collection. 
Blanch  Vibert  (H.  Perp.),  white. 
Boursalt  Elegans  (Climb.),  flowers  purple  crimson;  a  hardy  rapid  grower,  with  long  flexible 

reddish  shoots. 

Cardinal  Patrizzi  (H.  Perp.),  brilliant  dark  crimson;  very  full  and  attractive. 
Celine  (June),  cupped  Rose,  large  and  fine ;  a  rapid  grower,  suitable  for  planting  to  pillars,  etc. 
Comte  de  Boubert  (June),  rosy  red,  of  large  size  and  free  blooming  habit. 
Countess  de  Murinais  (Moss),  a  pure  white  moss  rose,  large  and  double. 
Couquette  des  Alpes  (H.  Perp.),  shell-tinted  white,  of  delicate  appearance  and  beautiful  color. 
Claude  Millon  (H.  Perp.),  deep  violet  crimson;  very  desirable. 

Crimson  Moss  (Moss),  a  beautiful  mossy  variety,  of  crimson  color;  free  growing  and  attractive. 
Double  Margined  Hep  (June),  a  beautiful  semi-double,  nearly  white,  Rose,  shaded  with  pink. 
Dr.  Faust  (H.  Perp. ),light  crimson;  robust  grower  and  free  flowering. 
Due  de  Rohan  (H.  Perp.),  bright  crimson,  large  and  double;  beautiful. 
Duplessis  Morny  (H.  Perp.),  bright  purplish  crimson;  a  good  bloomer,  particularly  in  autumn; 

free  and  healthy  grower. 

Eveque  de  Nimes  (H.  Perp;)  deep  bright  crimson,  large  and  fine  form. 
Francis  I.  (H.  Perp.),  deep  rose  color;  a  steady,  rapid  grower. 
Gem  of  the  Prairie  (Climb.),  light  shade  of  crimson,  large,  perfectly  double  and  of  beautiful 

form ;  the  flowers  are  borne  on  trusses  numbering  from  ten  to  twenty  buds  on  each ;  an 

excellent  pot  Rose  if  kept  pruned  to  a  bushy  form;    not  perfectly  hardy  in  the  North, 

requiring  to  be  protected.      See  engraving,  Fig.  29. 
Gen.  Jacqueminot  (H.  Perp.),  brilliant  crimson  scarlet,  fragrant,  very  large  and  attractive,  free 

grower  and  abundant  bloomer ;  one  of  the  best  of  this  class.     See  engraving,  Fig.  30. 


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Fig.  jo.     Hybrid  Perpetual  Rose — General  Jacqueminot. 

Gen.   Washington  (H.  Perp.),  brilliant,  dazzling  crimson,  approaching  vermillion,  very  large  and 

perfectly  double,  free  and  constant  bloomer ;  should  be  in  every  collection. 
George  IV.  (June),  dark  crimson,  shaded  with  purple ;  attractive. 
Grevillei,  or  Seven  Sisters  (Climb.),  a  remarkably  vigorous  grower,  but  rather  too  tender  in  our 

climate  to  be  reliable  ;  flowers  in  clusters  very  profusely  ;  color,  several  shades  of  rose. 
Joasine  Hanet  (  H.  Perp.),  reddish  purple,  blooming  in  clusters. 

John  Hopper  (H.  Perp.),  deep  rose,  with  crimson  center,  large  and  fine  form ;  very  beautiful. 
Jules  Margotten  (H.  Perp.),  brilliant  carmine,  somewhat  imbricated;   a  very  fine  Rose,  being 

large  and  attractive,  fragrant,  and  a  free  bloomer. 

King's  Acre  (H.  Perp.),  deep  purplish  rose,  very  large  and  double;  strong  grower. 
LaReine(H.  Perp.),  beautiful  clear  bright  rose;   fine,  full  form,  large  and  fragrant;  a  strong 

grower. 

Leon  des  Combats  (H.  Perp.),  reddish  scarlet;  a  beautiful,  distinct' and  attractive  Rosa. 
Leopold  Hausburg  (H.  Perp.),  brilliant  carmine ;  very  handsome. 

Louis  Odier  (H.  Perp.)  crimson;  globular  in  form  and  exceedingly  regular;  very  fragrant. 
Louis  Napoleon  (H.  Perp.),  rosy  crimson  ;  large,  full  and  fragrant. 
Madame  Chas.  Crapelet  (H.  Perp.),  bright  rosy  crimson,  large  and  vigorous;  distinct. 
Madame  Chas.  Wood  (H.  Perp.),  brilliant  crimson,   shaded  with  purple,  large  and  double;   a 

profuse  bloomer  and  one  of  the  finest  sorts. 
Madame  de  Trotter  (H.  Perp.),  bright  red,  double  and  fine. 
Madame  Hardy  (June),  a  double  white  Rose,  large  and  full. 
Madame  Laffay  (H.  Perp.),    beautiful  clear  flesh  color,  changing  to  transparent  rose;  very  fine. 


28  THE  HOME  FLORIST. 


Madame  Louise  Cari'que  (H.  Perp.),  bright  rosy  carmine,  large  and  full;  cupped. 

Madame  Plantier  (Hybrid  China),   one  of  the  finest  hardy  pure  white  Roses;    large  fragrant 

flowers,  bloom  in  clusters  very  profusely ;  a  variety  well  suited  for  cemetery  planting. 
Marquis   de   Boccella   (H.   Perp.),  light    flesh-colored    rose,   petals  edged  with  crimson;   very 

desirable. 
Mi's.  Reynolds  (H.   Perp.),   clear   cherry  red   and   crimson,  brilliant;   good   grower   and    free 

bloomer. 
Pceonia  (H.  Perp.),  rich  transparent  carmine,  large,   finely  cupped  and  double;   fine  growing 

habit  and  every  way  desirable. 
Pius  IX.  (H.  Perp.),  clear  bright  purplish  rose,  changing  to  rosy  pink  delicately  shaded;  large 

and  desirable. 
Prairie  Queen  (Climb.),  deep  pink,  sometimes  with  a  white  stripe,  compact  and  globular;   a 

valuable  Climbing  Rose. 
President  Lincoln  (H.  Perp.),  bright  cherry  crimson,  large  fragrant  flowers;  a  strong  grower  and 

free  bloomer;  one  of  the  best. 

Princess  Camile  de  Rohan  (H.  Perp.),  rich  velvety  crimson,  shaded  to  dark  rose;  large  and  fine. 
Queen  of  the  Belgians  (Climb.),  a  white  Rose  of  rapid  slender  growth. 
Reine  des  Violettes  (H.  Perp.),  deep  violet  red  ;  double  and  of    fine  form.     This  is  a  seedling 

from  Pius  IX. 

Scarlet  Greville  (Climb.),  scarlet  crimson. 

Souv.  de  Henry  Clay  (H.  Perp.),  bright  rosy  pink;  large  and  fine;  vigorous  grower. 
Sydonia  (H.  Perp.),  light  pink;  very  large  and  full;  one  of  our  best  fall-blooming  Roses. 
Triumph  de  V Exposition  (H.  Perp.),  bright  reddish  crimson,  beautifully  shaded. 
Violet  Blue  (June),  dark  violet  purple;  very  distinct. 

William  Griffeth  (H.  Perp.),  rosy  lilac,  cupped  and  perfect  form;  vigorous  and  profuse. 
William  Jesse  (II.  Perp.),  very  dark  velvety  crimson;  an  attractive  and  distinct  variety. 

TENDER    ROSES   (MONTHLY). 

In  the  division  of  Tender  Roses  we  find  characteristics  that  render  the  various  classes  of 
them,  perhaps,  the  most  desirable  of  all  Roses  for  ordinary  cultivation.  They  are  natives  of 
warm  countries,  like  China,  Bengal,  the  isle  of  Bourbon,  etc.,  and  although  all  the  varieties  will 
bear  considerable  freezing,  and  some  are  almost  entirely  hardy  as  far  North  as  this  latitude,  their 
natural  propensities  to  grow  and  flower,  more  or  less,  continually — monthly,  as  it  is  termed — 
remains  unchanged  with  being  removed  to  our  climate,  and  with  proper  treatment  and  a  suitable 
temperature  in  winter,  in  the  window  or  conservatory,  they  may  be  had  to  flower  the  year  through. 
In  the  mild  climate  of  our  Southern  States  they  continue  to  grow  and  bloom  in  the  open  air  with 
little  interruption.  By  suitable  protection  at  the  approach  of  cold  weather,  or  by  wintering  in 
a  cold  pit  or  cellar,  they  are  easily  managed  to  thrive  in  the  open  air  in  our  Northern  States,  and 
produce  an  abundance  of  bloom  from  June  until  October  and  November. 

BOURBON  ROSES. — This  is  the  hardiest  class  of  this  division  of  Roses,  being  nearly,  but 
not  quite,  hardy  in  the  latitude  of  Buffalo,  and  although  some  of  the  varieties  do  not  flower  as 
frequently  as  do  those  of  other  classes,  the  flowers  are  produced  in  large  clusters,  are  of  large 
size,  well  shaped,  bright  and  varied  in  color,  fragrant  and  lasting.  Some,  however,  among  which 
Hermosa  stands  prominent,  are  unequaled  for  their  free  flowering  qualities,  in  the  open  air,  and 
also  for  pot  culture  and  winter  flowering.  All  are  vigorous  growers,  with  rich  luxuriant  foliage, 
and  are  quite  certain  of  giving  satisfaction  to  the  cultivator. 

BENGAL  OR  CHINA  ROSES.— The  varieties  of  these  Roses  throughout  are  very  free 
flowering,  of  thrifty  growth  and  rather  compact  form,  and  while  the  flowers  probably  do  not 
average  as  large  as  those  of  the  Bourbon  and  other  sections,  the  plants,  if  bedded  out,  are 
certain  to  be  covered  with  a  larger  number  of  buds  and  flowers,  of  their  characteristically  bril- 
liant colors,  than  any  other  class  cultivated.  Require  protection  during  winter  in  the  North. 
Very  desirable  for  pot  culture.  The  Agrippina  is  a  well  known  and  unequaled  type  of  this 
class. 

TEA-SCENTED  ROSES.— Of  the  beautiful,  sweet  Tea-scented  Roses  it  may  be  said, 
with  mild  justice  to  their  many  good  qualities,  that  while  the  Rose  finds  devoted  cultivators  this 
class  will  rank  highest  among  really  fine  kinds,  in  many  respects ;  this,  particularly,  is  true  of 
the  exquisite,  deliciously  fragrant,  bud  varieties,  which,  in  the  estimation  of  cultivated  tastes, 
are,  without  exception,  lovely  and  attractive  above  any  flower  in  our  collections,  and  they  are 
nearly  all  remarkably  suitable  for  pot  cultivation,  in  the  window  or  conservatory,  as  they  are  of 
fine  habit  and  very  productive.  In  our  own  experience  in  cultivating  these  in  greenhouses 
(conservatories),  where  the  varieties  Safrano,  Isabella  Sprunt  and  Bon  Silene  are  grown  largely 
for  our  cut-flower  trade,  the  plants  never  fail  to  produce  a  constant  daily  supply  during  winter 
and  almost  continually  through  the  entire  year.  To  show  their  appreciable  value,  I  will  state 
that  these  find  ready  purchasers  all  through  cold  weather,  at  the  uniform  price  of  fifteen  cents 
per  bud,  just  as  cut  from  the  plants,  which  is  nearly  twice  the  money  realized  for  other  Roses  at 
the  same  time.  True,  the  entire  class  are  more  susceptible  of  injury  from  cold  than  most  Roses, 
nevertheless  their  general  habit  is  healthy  and  vigorous,  and  when  growing  in  the  open  ground 
they  are  amazingly  prolific  of  buds  and  flowers,  and  by  carefully  lifting  the  plants  in  November, 


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giving  protection  in  a  cold  pit  or  cellar  and  returning  to  the  open  ground  in  spring,  they  will 
thrive  from  year  to  year  the  same  as  any  other  class  of  tender  Roses.  Some  of  the  Tea- 
scented  Roses  are  too  double  to  be  classified  as  bud-varieties — a  few  of  which  are  not  fully 
double  when  open.  These  produce  large  flowers  of  the  unapproachable  tints,  shades  and  colors, 
and  possessed  of  the  tea- fragrance,  for  which  this  class  is  peculiar. 

NOISETTE  ROSES. — This  class,  although  quite  limited  in  number  of  varieties,  is  of 
great  value  for  permanent  planting  in  the  soil  of  a  greenhouse  or  conservatory,  as  by  means  of 
their  free  climbing  habits  they  can  be  permanently  trained  to  the  rafters  and  trellises.  Plants, 
after  having  spread  to  some  distance,  produce  immense  crops  of  beautiful,  fragrant  and  fine 
colored  flowers  at  intervals  of  quick  succession.  Severe  pruning  of  the  young  shoots  is  neces- 
sary to  secure  the  best  results.  By  keeping  the  leading  branches  well  cut  back,  numerous  varie- 
ties of  this  class  are  excellent  for  growing  as  ordinary  pot  Roses  and  for  bedding  in  summer. 

VARIETIES  OF  TENDER  ROSES. — To  distinguish  the  classes,   the  following  abbreviations 
are  used  in  the  description  of  varieties:  Bour.,  Bourbon;  Beng.,  Bengal  or  China ;  Tea,  Tea- 
scented  ;  Nois.,  Noisette.     When  the  term  hardy  is  employed,  it  is  in  a  comparative  sense : 
Adam  (Tea),  pinkish  purple  color,  of  large  size,  but  not  blooming  as  freely  as  some. 
Adrienne  Christople  (Tea),  apricot  yellow,  shaded  with  rose ;  a  beautiful  variety. 
Agrippina  (Beng.),  one  of  the  brightest  and  most  free-blooming  Roses  in  cultivation  and  one 

that  should  be  found  in  every  collection ;   the  flowers  are  of  a  deep  crimson  color,  and 

double ;  excellent  in  the  open  ground  or  for  pot  culture. 
Alice  Walton  (Beng.),  rosy  pink,  very  double  and  of  fine  form,  flowers  of  small  size;  unrivalled 

as  a  hardy,  free-flowering  variety. 

Appoline  (Bour.),  a  fine  large  Rose,  of  robust  growing  habit,  light  pink,  double  and  compact. 
Arch  Duke  Charles  (Beng.),  rose,  changing  to  deep  crimson;  good  form  and  habit. 
Beau  Carmine  (Beng.),  light  satiny  crimson,  double,  medium  to  large  size;  fine  compact  grower. 
Beauharnois  (Beng.),  a  bright  amaranth-colored  Rose,  quite  distinct;  of  vigorous  growth,  and 

free-blooming  habit. 
Bella  (Tea),  perhaps  the  finest  pure  white  Tea-scented  Rose  in  existence  when  it  is  well  grown. 

I  find   that  the  greatest  difficulty  with  this  recently  introduced  variety  is,  that  being  very 

double,  it  does  not  always  open  perfectly ;  vigorous  and  remarkably  healthy. 
BMe  of  Orleans  (Nois.),  this  is  a  beautiful  white  Rose,  and  although  small,  it  is  perfectly  double 

to  the  center ;  blooms  with  amazing  freedom,  in  clusters,  all  through  the  season ;  a  Noisette 

Rose,  but  well  adapted  to  garden  or  pot  culture,  as  its  growth  is  easily  controlled. 
Bon  Silene  (Tea),  very  beautiful  and  desirable  as  a  bud  Rose;  color  purplish  carmine  with  a 

peculiar  bright  rosy  shade;  rich,  delicate  tea-scented  fragrance;  good  healthy  grower. 
Bouquet  de  Marie  (Beng.),  deep  pink,  of  good  form  and  habit. 

Bourbon  Queen  (Bour.),  rose  color  with  salmon  tint,  large  and  double;  a  very  fine  variety. 
Caroline  de  Manaise  (Tea),  white ;  a  good  bloomer  and  double ;  vigorous. 
Cels  (Beng.),  blush;  a  very  profuse  bloomer,  good  and  healthy  grower;  excellent. 
Count  de  ^Ure  (Bour.),  salmon  and  carmine,  quite  double  and  fine ;  a  very  desirable  Rose. 
Count  le  Bart  he  (Tea),  flesh  color,  changing  to  deep  blush;  very  fragrant. 
Compte  Bobrinsky  (Beng.),  crimson  scarlet,  of  good  form. 
Devoniensis  (Tea),  creamy  white  with  rosy  center;  large  and  fine. 
Duchess  de  Brabant  (Tea),  blush  shade  on  rosy  ground ;   unequaled  for  its  delicate  tint  and 

satiny  texture. 

Fallemburg  (Nods.),  deep  rose,  fine  form,  and  attractive. 
Gen.  Tartas  (Tea),  rosy  pink  of  various  shades;  large,  rather  irregular,   but  very  attractive; 

free  bloomer,  and  healthy  grower. 
Gen,   Wayne  (Beng.),  a  medium  sized  deep  crimson  Rose  of  good  substance,  and  a  very  free 

bloomer ;  sometimes  the  petals  around  the  center  are  green. 

Geo,  Peabody  (Beng.),  light  crimson,  nearly  white;  free  bloomer  and  a  good  compact  grower 
Gigantesque  (Tea),  flesh  color,  large  size. 

Glorie  de  Dijon  (Tea),  yellow  shaded  with  salmon  and  rose ;  distinct  and  large. 
Hermosa  (Bour.),  an  old  but  very  excellent  Rose;  clear  rose  color;  double  and  very  fragrant; 

a  healthy,  free-blooming  variety.      Should  be  in  every  collection. 
Homer  (Tea),  rosy  pink  with  salmon  shade ;  fine  form  and  a  good  bloomer. 
Hymenee  (Tea),  a  whitish  rose  with  blush  yellowish  center. 
Indica  Alba  (Beng.),  pure  white;  small,  free  flowering. 
Isabella  Sprunt  (Tea),  a  gem  among  Tea-scented  Roses.     Canary  yellow;  beautiful  large  buds, 

very  sweet ;  profuse  bloomer  and  free  grower. 

Joseph  Gourdon  (Bour.),  a  beautiful  Rose;  deep  rose  color;  compact  and  double;  very  fragrant. 
Julia  Mansaise  (Tea),  pure  white  with  slight  yellowish  tint;  large  and  full;  desirable  in  every 

collection ;  fragrant. 

Lady  Warrcnder  (Tea),  a  beautiful  white  Rose,  of  fine  habit  and  form. 
Ijzmarque  (Nois.),   valuable  white  Rose;    very  double  and  fragrant;  a  luxuriant  grower  and 

very  prolific ;  one  of  the  best  Roses  in  cultivation  for  conservatories. 

Laurencia  or  Fairy  Rose  (Beng.),  rosy  pink ;  very  small,  of  fine  form  and  healthy  growth. 
Laurette  (Tea),  creamy  white,  shaded  with  rosy  amber,  very  full  and  sweet;  a  free  grower  and 

excellent  bloomer. 


THE  HOME  FLORIST. 


Fig.  jf.     A   Tea-Scented  Rose-bud.  Fig.  32.     Hybrid  Perpetual  Rose  in  Pot. 

Leveson  Gower  (Bour.),  deep  rose;  large  and  full. 

Louis  Phillippe  (Beng.),  bright  dark  crimson;  profuse  bloomer;  much  like  Agrippina. 

Marechal  Niel  (Tea),  the  largest  Tea-scented  Rose  in  existence ;  perfectly  double ;  finest  pure 

chrome  yellow,  very  fragrant ;  excellent  for  the  conservatory  and  desirable  for  the  garden  ; 

but  requiring  very  careful  culture  when  young ;  the  buds  are  of  immense  size. 
Madame  Bravy  (Tea),  creamy  white ;  large  and  fine. 

Madame  Breon  (Beng.),  rich  rose  changing  to  bright  crimson,  beautifully  shaded  ;  fragrant. 
Madame  Dumage  (Tea),  light  rosy  pink  ;  a  free-growing  variety. 
Madame  Barrilld  Deschamps  (Tea),  white,  shaded  with  yellow ;  large  and  beautiful. 
Madame  Falcot  (Tea),  bright  yellow  shaded  with  crimson ;  a  very  attractive  and  desirable  Rose. 
Madame  Jules  Margotten  (Tea),   new;    a  very  attractive  Rose,   with  a  novel   intermixture  of 

colors,  ranging  from  canary  yellow  to  apricot  and  violet. 

Madame  Russel  (Tea),  light  pink  shaded  with  a  coppery  hue;  an  excellent  grower. 
Madame  de  Vatry  (Tea),  deep  rose  shaded  with  dark  crimson. 
Malmaison  (Bour.),  a  magnificent  Rose;  pale  blush  with  fawn  shade;  large,  double  and  full 

to  the  center ;  very  fragrant ;  an  excellent  grower. 
Marie  Sisley  (Tea),  white,  tipped  and  shaded  with  carmine. 
Pactole  (Tea),  light  canary  shade;  a  good  bloomer. 
Pauline  Labonte  (Tea),  bronzy  yellow,  large  and  sweet,  very  fine  bud. 
Paxton  (Bour.),   deep  rose  shaded  with  crimson;   very  strong  grower,   rich   foliage    and    free 

bloomer. 

Phcenix  (Bour.),  bright  rosy  purple;  large  flower;  a  good  grower  and  free  bloomer. 
Pierre  St.  Cyr  (Bour.),  rosy  crimson,  large  and  full;  very  fragrant. 
Premiere  de  Charissimer  (Tea),  a  beautiful  bud  Rose;  color  bright  purplish  crimson. 
President  (Tea),  rich  light  purplish  crimson,  with  deep  rose  shading  at  base  of  petals;  large 

and  very  attractive. 

President  dOlbecque  (Beng.),  deep  rosy  crimson;  free  grower  and  bloomer. 
Prince  Eugene  (Beng.),  deep  crimson;  medium  size. 
Princess  cVEsterhazii  (Beng.),  bright  crimson  with  usually  light    stripes    through    the    petals; 

double  and  very  profuse ;  a  fine  garden  Rose. 
Pumilia  (Tea),  rich  apricot  tint,  excellent  either  as  a  bud  or  an  open  Rose ;  dwarf,  compact 

grower;  free  flowering  and  desirable. 
Purple  Crown  (Beng.),  rich  purplish  crimson,  fine  habit. 
Roi  des  Cramoises  (Beng.),   deep  crimson,  very  double  and  full,  a  dwarf  compact  grower,  and 

profuse  bloomer.     An  excellent  variety. 
Safrano  (Tea),  a  bud  Rose  of  lovely  color,  which  is  somewhat  difficult  to  describe,  being  a 

blending  of  rich  apricot  and  saffron  yellow  colors;   fragrant;    free  grower  and  abundant 

bloomer;  one  of  the  best  Tea-scented  Roses  for  pot  or  garden  culture. 
Sanguined,  (Beng.),  deep  crimson;  a  profuse  and  showy  variety  for  bedding;  semi-double. 
Solfaterre  (Nois),  a  bright  straw-colored  Rose,  free  grower  but  well  adapted  for  pot  culture  if 

kept  pruned  ;  a  lovely,  fragrant  bud. 


THE  HOME  FLORIST.  31 


Triumphant  (Beng.),  deep  crimson,  medium  sized,  quite  full  and  showy. 
Triumph  de  Luxemberg  (Beng.),  brilliant  crimson  shaded  with  purple. 

Washington  (Nois. ),  white  tinged  with  blush,  blooms  very  freely  in  large  clusters;  vigorous. 
White  Tea  (Tea),  an  old  pure  white  Tea-scented  Rose,  still  very  desirable;  free  bloomer  and 
good  grower. 

CULTIVATION  AND  MANAGEMENT. 

The  Itosnry. — Roses,  to  be  most  effective,  should  be  planted  in  a  bed  by  themselves, 
where  it  is  possible  to  do  so.  A  dozen  Roses  scattered,  about  the  garden  lose  their  individuality, 
and  are  not  nearly  as  attractive  and  interesting  as  when  planted  in  a  rosary  of  any  shape  the 
grounds  may  allow  or  fancy  suggest.  Any  fair  garden  soil  that  is  well  drained  will  answer 
for  them  to  grow  in,  although  where  a  choice  among  different  soils  can  be  had,  one  of  a  loamy 
clay  nature  would  be  found  by  cultivators  preferable  to  any  other,  but  whatever  its  character 
may  be,  to  attain  anything  like  perfection  in  their  culture  it  should  be  dug  two  spades  deep, 
and  plenty  of  good  stable  manure  thoroughly  incorporated  with  it.  During  summer  the  surface 
of  the  soil  should  be  kept  loose  by  cultivation.  In  planting  the  hardy  varieties,  including 
Hybrid  Perpetuals,  which  are  to  remain  permanently  in  the  beds,  do  not  plant  so  close  that  they 
will  become  crowded  after  attaining  to  some  size;  four  feet  is  about  right  for  this  division, 
although  the  tender  varieties  will  do  very  well  some  nearer.  Roses  will  not  thrive  in  a  situation 
much  shaded,  and  like  all  other  fine  plants  they  do  better  if  not  exposed  to  sweeping  winds. 

Pruning. — Usually  the  most  pleasing  shape  to  have  Rose  plants  of,  is  a  symmetrical, 
bushy  one,  which  can  be  produced  by  judicious  pruning.  With  out-door  Roses  the  proper 
time  to  prune  those  that  are  entirely  hardy  is  late  in  the  fall,  while  the  varieties  that  are  liable 
to  be  frozen  back  in  winter  should  have  the  pruning  deferred  until  early  spring.  All 
strong  shoots  of  the  last  season's  growth  should  be  cut  back  to  two  eyes,  making  the  cut  with 
an  upward  slope  directly  above  the  upper  eye,  and  weak  growths  should  be  entirely  removed. 
This  will  cause  a  vigorous  growth  of  young  wood,  and  will  tend  to  increase  the  size  and  beauty 
of  the  flowers.  In  pruning  climbing  Roses,  only  side  shoots  and  such  upright  ones  as  may 
appear  superfluous,  and  all  old  wood  that  can  be  spared,  should  be  cut  away.  The  varieties  of 
the  tender  division,  whose  growth  is  almost  continual,  require  pinching  back  of  the  strongest  new 
shoots  during  the  season  to  keep  them  shapely,  and  all  branches  after  they  have  budded  and 
flowered  should  be  cut  back  sufficiently  to  induce  a  desirable  number  of  new  flowering  shoots 
to  start  into  growth  from  the  buds  which  are  allowed  to  remain. 

Insects  injurious  to  Hoses. — The  most  troublesome  insect  enemies  of  the  hardy 
Roses  ai-e  the  Rose  Saw-fly,  especially  in  its  caterpillar  state— then  known  as  the  Rose  Slug — and 
the  Rose  Chafer  or  Bug.  As  the  depredations  of  each  of  these  sometimes  assume  a  serious  form, 
I  will  endeavor  to  describe  them  so  that  they  may  be  known  at  their  first  appearance,  and 
that  proper  remedies  may  be  applied  in  time  for  checking  their  ravages.  During  the  last  two 
weeks  of  May,  and  until  the  middle  of  June,  the  Rose  Saw-flies  make  their  appearance  upon  the 
plants,  pair  and  lay  their  eggs  in  the  incisions  made  with  their  saws  in  the  leaves.  They  are  of 
a  shiny  black  color,  about  one-fifth  of  an  inch  in  length,  and  will  be  found  mostly  on  the  under 
side  of  the  leaves,  or  flying  around  from  bush  to  bush.  The  first  young  slugs  hatch  out  in  a  few 
weeks  after  the  flies  appear,  usually  showing  themselves  about  June  1st,  and  increasing  in  num- 
ber during  the  month.  These  are  of  a  pale  green  color  and  have  an  almost  transparent,  jelly-like 
appearance.  They  feed  upon  the  leaves,  which  soon  look  as  if  they  had  been  burned,  and  drop 
if  the  slugs  are  not  destroyed.  Dry  slacked  lime  scattered  over  the  leaves  while  wet  with  dew 
is  the  most  convenient  remedy  for  destroying  them,  and  will  often  prove  effectual ;  but  a  more 
destructive  one  may  be  had  in  frequently  syringing  the  plant  with  whale  oil  soap  dissolved 
in  water  in  the  proportion  of  one  pound  to  eight  gallons  of  water ;  many  of  the  female  insects 
in  their  beetle  state — being  more  sluggish  than  the  males— can  be  destroyed  with  this  solution  if 
thoroughly  applied  by  sprinkling  or  with  a  syringe  every  day  as  they  first  appear.  No  pains 
should  be  spared  to  lessen  the  number  as  much  as  possible  by  this  means.  The  Rose  Chafer 
is  a  small  insect  with  a  slender  body,  which  tapers  before  and  behind,  measuring  near  three- 
eighths  of  an  inch  in  length,  and  entirely  covered  with  ashen-yellow  down.  They  usually  appear 
towards  the  middle  of  June,  sometimes  in  large  numbers,  and  remain  from  four  to  six  weeks, 
also  feeding  on  some  other  plants  besides  the  Rose.  The  usually  efficacious  remedies  employed 
in  destroying  other  insects,  scarcely  effect  these  at  all ;  and  about  the  only  way  of  destroying 
them  is  to  pass  over  the  plants  daily,  shake  or  brush  them  into  tin  vessels  containing  water, 
or  they  may  be  gathered  on  sheets  and  burned.  Red  Spider  and  Green-fly  are  the  most  common 
insects  met  with  in  cultivating  Roses  in  the  window  and  conservatory,  and  directions  are  given 
for  preventing  and  destroying  them,  in  the  articles  on  "The  Amateur's  Conservatory,"  and 
"  Plant  Culture  in  and  about  the  House." 

Mildew  and  Rust. — Mildew  is  a  fungoid  growth  which  shows  itself  upon  the  leaves 
and  small  twigs  of  Roses  and  some  other  plants,  both  indoors  and  out.  It  has  a  gray  mould  - 
like  appearance,  and  seems  to  be  invited  by  anything  that  causes  the  growth  of  the  plant  to  be 
suddenly  checked.  Roses,  making  a  vigorous  growth  in  the  window  or  conservatory,  if  exposed 
to  a  strong  draft  of  cold  air  from  the  outside,  will  frequently  be  troubled  with  mildew,  or  by 


32  THE  HOME  FLORIST. 


allowing  the  soil  to  become  dry  enough  to  cause  the  leaves  to  droop  will  generally  effect 
them  similarly.  All  such  unfavorable  causes  should  be  strictly  guarded  against.  The  ordinary 
agent,  and  undoubtedly  the  best,  for  eradicating  and  also  preventing  its  appearance  is  flour  of 
sulphur,  which  may  be  applied  by  dusting  it  upon  the  leaves  after  wetting  down  the  foliage, 
every  few  days,  until  it  is  no  more  to  be  seen.  Rust  frequently  troubles  Roses  in  the  garden,  by 
appearing  upon  the  leaves.  The  most  efficient  mode  of  preventing  its  spreading  is  to  cut  olf 
and  burn  the  infected  branches,  although  if  badly  affected  it  may  necessitate  the  sacrifice  of  the 
greater  part  of  the  plant. 

Protection  duririff  Winter.— Wherever  it  is  possible,  by  means  of  protection,  to  keep 
Roses  in  the  open  ground  during  winter,  I  advocate  the  plan  of  so  doing ;  but  there  will  be  little 
use  of  attempting  to  winter  any  but  the  most  robust  varieties,  unless  the  ground  is  thoroughly 
drained,  and  when  the  rosary  is  in  such  condition,  little  loss  need  occur  in  leaving  out  many  of 
the  tender  varieties  in  any  part  of  the  North,  if  suitable  protection  be  provided.  A  most 
efficient  method  to  adopt  in  protecting  tender  kinds,  is  to  bend  the  plant  to  the  ground,  and 
completely  cover  with  fine  soil,  from  six  to  ten  inches  deep.  In  protecting  Roses  in  a  bed,  the 
plants  should  all  be  bent  in  one  direction,  and  the  entire  bed  covered  to  the  same  depth. 
Another  good  way  is  to  remove  the  top  and  bottom  from  a  barrel  or  box,  and  placing  it  over 
the  plant,  fill  loosely  with  leaves  or  straw.  An  amateur  cultivator  in  Pennsylvania  informs  me 
that  she  succeeds  in  wintering  tender  Roses  by  laying  them  flat  on  the  ground,  and  covering  them 
with  a  board.  Where  the  winters  are  very  severe,  and  it  is  not  considered  desirable  to  risk  tender 
kinds  out  of  doors,  they  may  be  carefully  taken  up,  pruned  slightly,  and  placed  in  a  cold  pit 
until  spring.  By  admitting  an  abundance  of  air  in  sunny  spring  days  and  warm  weather  they 
may  be  planted  into  the  beds  again  by  May  1st  in  this  latitude.  They  should,  however,  be 
pruned  again  before  planting  out.  Although  most  varieties  of  Hybrid  Perpetual  Roses  will 
survive  the  coldest  winters,  unprotected,  if  growing  on  drained  ground,  it  is  a  wise  policy 
to  cover  them  with  straw  late  in  autumn,  being  but  little  trouble,  and  they  generally  flower  better 
with  such  treatment.  A  stake  is  firmly  driven  into  the  ground  to  each  plant,  and  the  plant  tied 
nicely  and  rather  close  to  it ;  then  some  straightened  straw  is  placed  around  the  entire  length  of 
the  plant — it  need  not  be  very  thick — and  the  operation  is  completed  by  binding  twine  or  straw 
bands  around  the  whole,  in  several  places.  An  application  of  stable  manure  or  leaves  around 
the  base  of  the  plant  affords  ample  protection  to  the  roots.  All  Roses,  including  the  most 
tender  kinds,  will  stand  quite  severe  freezing  without  injury,  and  protecting  the  plants  of  any 
class  should  be  deferred  as  late  as  possible  in  the  fall.  In  spring,  as  soon  as  frost  is  out  of  the 
ground  and  growing  weather  at  hand,  all  protection  should  be  removed. 

Hoses  for  Pot  Culture  and  Winter  Bloomirtff. — The  tender  monthly  Roses  are 
nearly  all  suitable  for  pot  culture  and  winter  flowering,  the  Tea-scented  section,  with  its 
unapproachable  bud  varieties,  being  usually  preferred.  Plants  designed  for  winter  bloom- 
ing should  be  grown  in  pots  during  the  previous  summer.  These  should  be  plunged  to 
the  rim  in  earth  or  refuse  hops,  in  order  to  prevent  their  drying  out.  Roses  under  any  circum- 
stances are  quite  susceptible  of  being  injured  by  becoming  too  dry,  and  the  condition  should 
always  be  guarded  against  in  pot  culture.  In  the  remarks  on  page  12,  entitled  "Preparatory 
Treatment  of  Plants  designed  for  Winter  Flowering,"  directions  are  given  which  apply  to  summer 
treatment  of  Roses  grown  in  pots  for  this  purpose.  In  August  or  September  the  plants  should 
be  repotted  into  larger  sized  pots,  or  planting  into  a  box  will  ansAver  quite  as  well.  If  they  are  to 
be  grown  in  the  window,  they  should  now  be  gradually  inured  to  the  changed  light  and  heat  by 
keeping  in  the  house  part  of  each  day  only,  and  in  the  intervening  time  be  given  an  airy 
exposure  under  the  piazza  or  at  the  side  of  the  house,  lessening  it  by  degrees  as  the  season 
advances.  If  to  be  grown  or  "forced"  in  the  conservatory,  this  means  of  acclimating  is 
unnecessary,  provided  plenty  of  air  is  allowed  to  circulate  through  the  structure  after  they  have 
been  taken  in.  Their  winter  position  should  be  as  much  exposed  to  sun  as  possible,  and  the 
temperature  kept  at  between  50°  and  60°  at  night,  with  an  increase  of  15°  higher  during  the  day. 
Sprinkle  the  plants  frequently,  and  never  allow  them  to  suffer  from  dryness  of  the  soil. 

Before  dismissing  this  subject,  I  will  explain  how,  by  means  of  a  cold  pit,  the  Hybrid 
Perpetuals  and  many  other  hardy  Roses,  besides  the  entire  division  of  tender  Roses,  may  be 
taken  up  and  made  to  do  a  kind  of  double  duty,  safely  and  with  little  trouble,  by  flowering 
profusely  in  the  house  or  conservatory  in  March  or  later,  and  after  being  returned  to  the  garden 
thrive  there  as  usual.  For  this  purpose  any  of  the  plants  growing  and  flowering  during 
summer  are  suitable  without  extra  treatment.  Dig  them  carefully  late  in  October  or  November, 
in  this  latitude,  and  prune  away  the  old  straggling  wood  and  superflous  shoots,  cutting  the 
remaining  shoots  back  to  several  eyes ;  then  pot  into  good  fresh  soil,  one-third  part  of  which 
should  consist  of  well  rotted  manure,  pressing  it  down  quite  firmly,  and  give  a  thorough  water- 
ing when  done.  After  this,  place  the  potted  Roses  in  the  cold  pit,  where  they  are  to  remain 
until  the  middle  of  January  and  later  for  a  succession.  In  bringing  them  in  from  the  cold  pit  to 
the  window  or  conservatory,  do  not  place  in  too  high  a  temperature  at  once.  A  situation 
indicating  40°  or  45°  will  answer  for  them  at  first,  and  from  this  they  may  be  changed  to  a 
temperature  of  from  50°  to  60°  at  night,  and  receive  treatment  as  directed  for  winter  blooming 
plants.  Contrary  to  what  many  persons  might  suppose,  thus  forcing  Roses  does  not  materially 
injure  the  usefulness  of  the  plants,  for  by  planting  again  into  the  garden  in  May,  the  monthly 
varieties  will  flower  considerable,  and  all  will  regain  their  usual  vigor  during  the  summer. 


THE  HOME  FLORIST. 


DESCRIPTIONS   OF  IMPORTANT   ORNAMENTAL 

AND  FLOWERING  PLANTS,  WITH  CULTURAL  DIRECTIONS. 

The  various  families,  species  and  varieties  of  plants  which  are  desirable  for  cultivation  on 
account  of  their  flowering  or  other  qualities,  may  be  arranged  according  to  their  habits,  means 
of  reproduction,  time  and  age  at  which  they 'flower  and  mature,  hardiness,  etc.,  into  a  number 
of  divisions  and  subdivisions,  those  commonly  recognized  being  named  and  described  herewith. 

ANNUALS. 

Plants  that  flower  the  first  year  from  seed,  and,  after  yielding  a  new  crop  of  seed,  die, 
root  and  all.  Annuals  are  subdivided  into  two  kinds — Hardy  Annuals  and  Half-Hardy  and 
Tender  Annuals. 

Hardy  Annuals  are  those  that  germinate  and  make  their  growth  to  full  maturity  in  the 
open  air,  without  the  aid  of  artifical  heat,  such  as  Sweet  Pea,  Nemophila,  Mignonette,  etc. 

Half -Hardy  and  Tender  Annuals  differ  from  the  Hardy  Annuals  in  being  more  tender, 
on  which  account  most  of  them  should  receive  the  assistance  of  artificial  heat  or  protection  dur- 
ing germination  and  in  the  early  stages  of  their  growth,  although  nearly  all  flower  well  later  in 
the  season  if  the  seeds  are  sown  in  the  open  ground  after  all  danger  of  frost  to  the  young  seed- 
ling is  over.  The  Portulaca,  Phlox  Drummondii,  Marigold,  etc.,  belong  to  this  division. 

BIENNIALS 

flower  the  second  and  sometimes  the  third  year  after  sowing,  then  ripen  their  seed  and  die,  root 
and  all. 

PERENNIALS 

live  and  blossom  from  year  to  year,  and,  although  some  seed  freely,  as  a  rule  they  are  shy  in 
this  respect,  and  are  best  increased  by  layers,  cuttings,  separation  of  the  roots,  etc.  This 
division  is  subdivided  into  Hardy  Herbaceous  Perennials,  and,  in  our  latitude,  Tender  or 
Greenhouse  Perennials,  each  of  which  include  some  Bulbous  and  Tuberous  plants. 

Hardy  Herbaceous  Perennials  are  understood  to  be  plants,  such  as  Paeonies,  Hardy  Phlox, 
Lychnis,  Hyacinths,  Lilies,  etc.,  whose  roots  continue  to  live  year  after  year,  although  the 
growth  above  ground  dies  annually,  either  soon  after  flowering  or  in  the  fall.  Most  kinds 
are  propagated  by  division  of  the  roots,  which  should  be  taken  up  for  this  purpose  every  few 
years,  and  then  be  reset.  Some  can  also  be  increased  from  seed,  others  by  layering. 

Tender  or  Greenhouse  Perennials  for  the  most  part  consist  of  plants  whose  entire 
growth,  both  plant  and  root,  is  continual,  and  which  are,  with  few  exceptions,  increased  by  slips 
or  cuttings  taken  from  growing  plants.  These  plants  are  usually  reared  in  pots,  and  belong  to 
a  division  that,  in  some  respects,  is  old  and  well-known,  while  in  others  it  is  still  enveloped  in 
clouds  of  ignorance  and  distrust  relative  to  the  kinds,  in  the  minds  of  many  amateurs.  The  well- 
known  monthly  Rose ;  Rose,  Fish  and  Horseshoe  Geraniums ;  the  Lady's  Ear-Drop ;  Snake  and 
other  Cactuses,  Oleanders,  Rosemary,  etc.,  which  all  of  us  have  been  familiar  with  from  infancy, 
almost,  belong  to  this  division,  while  many  varieties  and  kinds,  quite  as  easy  of  cultivation,  and 
greatly  improved,  which  have  originated  or  been  discovered  within  a  score  or  a  few  years,  are 
still  comparatively  unknown,  and  receive  little  attention,  except  from  professional  florists,  and 
the  more  enthusiastic  amateurs.  It  is  to  this  class  of  plants  that  we  are  really  indebted  for 
many  of  our  choicest  floral  gems,  either  for  cultivating  in  the  house,  conservatory  or  garden. 
Sometimes  plants  belonging  to  the  same  botanical  family  vary  so  much  that  the  family  is  properly 
arranged  in  several  of  the  above  divisions.  This  is  the  case  with  the  Phlox  family,  some  kinds 
of  which  are  Hardy  Annuals,  and  others  Hardy  Herbaceous  Perennials ;  also  with  the  flowering 
Pea  and  other  families. 

COMPARATIVE  VALUE. — In  this  connection  .it  may  be  well  to  consider  the  comparative 
value  and  prices  of  various  kinds  of  plants,  presuming  that  the  reader,  who  purchases  stock, 
desires  to  make  the  best  possible  investment  with  the  money  expended.  Although  prices  of 
pot  and  other  plants  range  higher  than  those  of  packets  of  flower  seeds,  it  should  be  remem- 
bered that  the  former  are  always  of  considerable,  often  of  a  flowering,  size  when  purchased, 
while  plants  stiil  require  to  be  reared  from  the  latter ;  then,  again,  when  once  a  plant  is  pur- 
chased it  can  be  increased  by  cuttings,  divisions,  etc.,  to  any  desired  extent,  and  the  quality 
of  the  variety  is  never  impaired,  because  the  new  propagation  is  part  of  the  original  plant 
with  a  root  of  its  own.  With  seeds  it  is  quite  different ;  every  experienced  amateur  knows  that 
it  is  next  to  impossible  to  keep  up  a  superior  strain  or  variety  of  plants  with  seed,  unless  the 
seed  is  saved  from  plants  grown  isolated,  after  the  manner  practiced  by  professional  seed-growers. 
The  trouble  is  they  are  so  apt  to  hybridize  or  mix,  which  necessitates  the  purchase  of  the 
same  kind  or  variety  each  spring  if  it  is  considered  desirable  to  keep  up  the  stock ;  but  even 
with  this  being  necessary  with  varieties  that  cannot  be  saved  sufficiently  pure,  the  outlay  to 
procure  superior  new  seed  need  not  be  large  each  year,  and  it  should  be  remembered  that  many 
of  the  cheap  annuals  and  other  seed-grown  plants  ean  be  used  with  unequaled  effect  in  produc- 
ing display  in  the  house  or  about  the  grounds. 

In  the  descriptions  of  kinds  which  follows,  the  division  to  which  each  belongs  is  named  in 

3 


34  THE  HOME  FLORIST. 


the  parenther.is  preceding  the  regular  matter.  For  an  explanation  of  the  figures  and  degrees 
which  follow  the  names  of  Greenhouse  Perennials,  for  instance  ABUTILON  (Greenhouse 
Perennial,  jj,  45,  85°},  see  "Temperature,"  etc.,  page  20. 

ABUTILON  (Greenhouse  Perennial,  jj,  45,  Sf  ). 

This  is  a  family  of  plants  that  are  noted  variously  for  their  peculiar  bell-shaped  flowers  of 
several  beautiful  colors,  for  the  variegated  character  of  the  foliage  of  some  varieties,  and  for  the 
fine  habits  of  others.  All  are  adapted  for  house  and  conservatory  culture  in  pots ;  some  for 
bedding  and  others  for  planting  vases  and  hanging  baskets,  and  there  is  not  a  delicate  or  feeble 
growing  variety  among  them.  When  bedded  out  in  summer  they  can  be  taken  up  about  Septem- 
ber ist  and  potted  for  winter  decoration  more  readily  than  the  average  of  plants.  All  should 
receive  occasional  pruning. 

A.  Mesopotamicum,  calyx  of  the  flower  scarlet ;  petals  yellow;  of  straggling,  slender  growth ; 
excellent  for  training  to  a  stake  or  trellis.  A.  Mesopotamicum  Pictum  a  new  variety,  and  one 


Fig.  jj.     A  Fine  Double  Balsam.     See  page  39. 

of  the  finest  drooping  plants  in  existence  for  planting  at  the  edge  of  baskets  and  vases,  or 
for  pot  culture.  The  leaves  are  narrow,  of  beautiful  shape  and  rather  small,  and  are  richly 
variegated  with  golden  yellow  on  green,  which  renders  the  plant  exceedingly  valuable  for  con- 
trasting with  other  drooping  plants;  as  vigorous  and  healthy  a  grower  as  any.  A.  Mesopotami- 
cum variegata,  leaves  are  like  Mesopotamicum,  lance-shaped,  but  besides  are  variegated  and 
marbled  with  clean  yellow  upon  deep  green  in  a  pleasing  manner;  excellent  slender  habit. 
A.  Mesopotamicum  striattim  (Powering  Maple),  an  upright  grower  of  vigorous  habit,  producing 
its  attractive  drooping  flowers  nearly  through  the  entire  year.  The  flowers  are  about  three 
inches  in  length,  and  orange,  distinctly  striped  and  netted  with  scarlet ;  foliage  has  the  maple 
leaf  shape,  is  clear  and  beautiful.  A.  Thotapsonii,  similar  in  most  respects  to  the  preceding 
variety,  but  the  leaves  are  distinctly  variegated,  mottled  and  marbled  with  bright  yellow  on  dark 
green  ground.  This  variety  is  one  of  the  best  showy  bedding  and  also  pot  plants  for  inside 
cultivation.  It  grows  vigorously  when  planted  out,  and  the  distinctness  of  its  leaf  markings, 
although  always  striking,  are  greatly  increased  in  beauty  with  the  rapid  growth  it  makes  in  sum- 
mer. An  excellent  plant  to  set  in  vases,  large  hanging  baskets,  etc.  A.  Santana,  purplish 
crimson  flowers.  A.  Santana  alba,  an  elegant  upright  growing  variety,  with  pure  white  bell- 
shaped  flowers.  A.  Verschaffeltii,  a  new  variety,  with  deep  green  maple-shaped  leaves,  and 
exceedingly  handsome  lemon-yellow  flowers ;  a  stocky  grower  and  profuse  bloomer. 

ACHILLEA   (Hardy  Perennial). 

A  family  of  hardy  plants,  mostly  natives,  several  of  which  produce  attractive  flowers ; 
they  will  thrive  in  any  soil. 

A.  Ageratum  has  golden  yellow  flowers.  A.  Millefolium  is  a  pretty  rose-colored  variety. 
A.  Ptarmicafl.  pi.,  a  double  pure  white  variety,  which  is  desirable  in  every  collection.  It  con- 
tinues to  bloom  most  of  the  season,  throwing  up  a  succession  of  its  pretty  double  flowers,  in 
corymbes,  on  stems  about  one  foot  high.  The  foliage  is  dark  shining  green  ;  very  hardy. 


THE  HOME  FLORIST.  35 


ACHRYANTHES  (Greenhouse  Perennial,  35,  50,  90°). 

A  class  of  beautiful  foliage  plants  most  of  which  are  excellent  for  planting  in  masses  and 
in  the  ribbon  style,  their  distinct  colors  forming  a  striking  contrast  with  Centaureas  and 
other  M'hite  foliaged  plants.  All  are  admirably  adapted  for  planting  in  the  center  of  hanging 
baskets  and  vases,  and  are  also  suitable  for  house  and  window  culture,  as  they  develop  their 
best  colors  even  in  partial  shade  and  prove  to  be  somewhat  hardier  than  Coleus  for  this  purpose. 
One  to  one  and  a  half  feet  high.  Any  of  the  varieties  strike  root  readily  from  cuttings,  and  all 
that  is  necessary  to  have  beautiful  medium-sized  plants  for  window  culture  in  winter  or  to  plant 
in  ferneries — for  which  purpose  they  are  admirably  .adapted— is  to  propagate  in  July  or 
August. 

A.  Aureus  reticulatus,  leaves  are  light  green,  netted  with  golden  yellow,  occasionally  splashed 
with  crimson;  stalk  and  leaf-stems  light  crimson:  altogether  a  beautiful  and  desirable  plant. 
A.  Gilsonii,  leaves  striped  with  various  shades  of  carmine ;  stems  of  a  deep  shade  of  pink ; 
in  some  respects  an  improvement  on  old  Verschaffeltii,  being  of  a  more  dense  and  compact 
growth ;  excellent  in  every  way.  A.  Lindenii,  an  upright  dwarf  grower,  about  one  foot  high, 
completely  branched  from  the  root ;  leaves  narrow  lanceolate,  of  a  deep,  blood-red  color, 
reflecting  varying  tints  of  red  and  purple ;  unsurpassed  for  bedding.  A.  Lindenii  aureus  varie- 
gata,  a  new  variety,  in  every  respect  similar  to  Aureus  Reticulatus.  except  that  it  resembles 
Lindenii  in  growth  and  form  of  leaf. 

ACROCLINIUM  (Half-hardy  Annual). 

This  is  one  of  the  several  useful  everlasting  flowers  most  readily  grown  from  seed.  The 
flowers  are  of  medium  size,  good  form,  and  are  not  excelled  by  any  other  kind  in  points  of 
delicacy  and  beautiful  tints.  It  is  better  to  start  the  young  plants  in  heat  and  transplant  to  eight 
inches  apart,  then  to  sow  directly  where  they  are  to  bloom,  although  there  is  no  great  danger  of 
failure  by  doing  so  about  June  1st,  especially  as  the  flowers  should  be  cut  for  use  in  winter 
before  they  are  fully  expanded. 

A.  Album,  pure  white.     A.  Roseum,  bright  rose. 

AGAVE — CENTURY  PLANT  (Greenhouse  Perennial,  32,  45,  90°). 

This  remarkable  and  beautiful  family  of  plants  belongs  to  the  class  known  as  fleshy  plants, 
which  consist  of  those  growths  that  have  thick  leaves  and  that  present  but  a  small  amount  of 
surface  in  proportion  to  their  bulk.  In  the  present  instance  the  plant  has  no  proper  stem 
previous  to  the  time  it  sends  up  its  flowering  shoot,  which,  as  is  well  known,  takes  place  at  an 
advanced  age,  although  the  popular  impression  that  they  never  flower  until  the  age  of  one 
hundred  years  has  been  attained  is  erroneous.  In  Central  and  South  America,  their  native 
habitats,  they  flower  previous  to  their  twentieth  year,  but  in  our  greenhouses  not  usually  until 
they  have  reached  three  or  four  times  this  age.  After  flowering,  the  plant  dies  to  the  ground, 
but  the  root  continuing  to  live  sends  up  new  shoots.  The  leaves  are  long,  thick  and  terminate 
in  a  point ;  they  diverge  upwards  and  outwards  from  the  center  and  altogether  contribute  to 
form  one  of  the  most  effective  single  specimen  pot  plants  for  decorating  the  grounds  in  summer 
and  the  conservatory  or  dwelling  in  winter  that  can  be  cultivated.  The  Agaves  are  easy  to 
grow,  being  not  at  all  particular  as  regards  light  or  heat,  in  this  respect  being  similar  to  the 
varieties  of  the  Cactus  family,  and  quite  as  desirable  for  house  culture.  Their  growth  can  be 
retarded  or  encouraged  by  more  or  less  frequently  shifting  them  into  larger  pots,  which,  at  the 
most,  should  not  be  done  oftener  than  once  a  year. 

There  are  two  varieties  in  ordinary  cultivation — A.  Americana,  with  bluish-green  leaves, 
and  A.  Americana  variegata,  similar  in  appearance  to  the  preceding,  except  that  the  foliage  is 
striped  its  entire  length. 

AGERATUM  (Greenhouse  Perennial,  33,  45,  75°). 

The  Ageratums  are  rapid  growing,  profuse  blooming,  easily  propagated  plants,  that  will 
thrive  with  the  most  ordinary  treatment,  either  if  bedded  out  or  in  pots,  and  are  deserving  of 
a  place  in  every  collection.  The  flowers  are  produced  in  compact  tuft-like  heads,  and  although 
no  striking  colors  or  any  great  variety  of  shades  exist,  in  the  different  sorts,  they  appear 
in  large  numbers  continually  throughout  the  summer;  are  of  excellent  form  and  have  long 
convenient  stems  for  bouquet  making,  which  render  them  important  flowers  for  working  into 
summer  bouquets.  On  account  of  their  being  continually  in  flower,'  most  of  the  varieties  are 
valuable  for  planting  in  ribbon  lines  or  for  massing,  and  as  they  are  easily  reared  from  cuttings 
this  fact  should  not  be  overlooked.  One  variety  has  handsome  variegated  foliage  that  creates 
a  very  pretty  effect  when  similarly  employed.  Ageratums  can  be  forced  into  flower  in  winter, 
either  in  the  dwelling  or  conservatory,  but  are  not  prominently  valuable  for  this  purpose, 
although  young  summer  propagated  plants  can  readily  be  kept  in  a  growing  condition  from 
which  to  take  cuttings  for  spring  stock. 

A.  Imperial  Dwarf,  is  of  compact  low  growth,  attaining  the  height  of  eight  inches,  and 
spreading  to  the  size  of  one  foot  across ;  it  is  almost  entirely  covered  with  porcelain-blue  flowers 
during  the  greater  part  of  summer.  A.  Mexicanum  is  one  of  the  best  for  cut  flowers;  the 
flowers  are  of  a  delicate  lavender  blue  color,  and  very  freely  produced ;  the  plants  grow  to  a 
height  of  from  eighteen  to  twenty-four  inches.  A.  Mexicanum  variegatum,  a  beautiful  variety 
of  similar  height  to  the  preceding,  the  leaves  of  which  are  variegated  with  yellow,  green  and 


3 6  THE  HOME  FLORIST. 


generally  a  faint  shade  of  crimson ;  suitable  for  bedding  or  for  pot  culture.  A.  Prince  Alfred, 
of  dwarf  habit,  having  flowers  of  a  delicate  lilac  shade.  A.  Tom  Thumb,  the  smallest  variety 
of  all,  rarely  attaining  more  than  six  inches  in  height ;  flowers  of  a  light  porcelain  blue  color. 

AGROSTEMMA  (Hardy  Annual). 

A  family  of  plants  that  flower  freely  in  summer,  and  although  not  as  valuable  as  many  kinds, 
they  may  be  grown  with  the  greatest  ease  from  seed,  and  having  long  stems  and  rather  attractive 
colors  and  forms,  are  pretty  in  bouquets  and  other  floral  arrangements. 

The  varieties  commonly  grown  are  New  Scarlet,  a  bright  colored  variety,  Cccli  Rosa,  of  a 
deep  rose  color. 

ALOYSIA  CITRIODORA— LEMON  VERBENA  (Greenhouse  Perennial,  33,  45-,  So0). 

A  neat  growing  shrub,  with  elegant  light  green  lanceolate  leaves  that  are  undoubtedly  more 
deliciously  fragrant  than  those  of  any  other  plant  in  cultivation.  It  is  a  difficult  matter  to 
describe  a  fragrance  with  words  that  may  be  rightly  comprehended.  The  fragrance  of  this  plant 
somewhat  resembles  that  of  lemon  fruit,  yet  besides  possesses  a  pure  sweetness  and  wholesome- 
ness  that  is  indescribable.  I  occasionally  meet  with  persons  of  cultivated  tastes,  to  whom 
the  fragrance  of  such  flowers  as  the  Heliotrope,  Mignonette,  Tuberose,  Jasminum,  etc.,  which 
are  prized  by  nearly  every  one,  are  found  to  be  surprisingly  distasteful,  but  I  have  yet  to  find 
the  person  to  whom  the  fragrance  of  the  Lemon  Verbena  is  not  agreeable  in  the  highest  degree. 
Although  the  Aloysia  is  a  tender  perennial,  it  sheds  its  leaves  in  the  fall,  and  enters  into  a  natu- 
ral state  of  rest  during  winter,  in  which  condition  it  is  kept  over  until  spring  in  some  moder- 
ately dry  place,  like  under  the  shelving  in  a  conservatory  or  on  a  shelf  in  the  cellar  away  from 
frost.  The  soil  about  the  root  should  not  be  allowed  to  become  dust  dry,  but  at  long  intervals 
may  be  treated  to  a  small  quantity  of  water.  In  March  or  April  it  should  be  brought  to  light 
and  be  watered  frequently  to  induce  a  new  growth  for  the  season.  It  may  also  be  pruned  at 
this  time.  The  plant  is  suitable  either  as  a  pot  plant  or  for  bedding  out,  and  will  prove  itself 
to  be  one  of  the  easiest  to  cultivate. 

ALTERNANTHERA   (Greenhouse  Perennial,  33,  60,  90°). 

A  genus  of  ornamental  foliage  plants,  with  variously  marked  leaves,  that  are  well  adapted 
for  pot  culture,  baskets,  vases,  and  for  bedding  out  in  ribbon  lines  or  edging  to  flower  beds, 
being  of  similar  sizes  and  contrasting  beautifully  with  variegated  Alyssum  and  Thyme  for  such 
purposes.  They  grow  rapidly,  and  form  compact,  globular-shaped  plants  of  from  five  to  twelve 
inches  high,  which  are  extremely  beautiful.  In  hot  August  weather  young  plants  can  readily 
be  obtained  from  cuttings  for  winter  decoration  and  from  which  to  propagate  spring  stock.  The 
plants  are  quite  easily  injured  by  frost  and  should  be  planted  out  late  enough  in  the  spring  to 
avoid  danger  from  this  cause. 

A.  Amabilis,  the  foliage  of  this  variety  is  finely  variegated  with  orange,  rose  and  green; 
vigorous.  A.  Latifolia,  broad  smooth  leaves,  with  many  bright  colors  and  tints  on  green 
ground  resembling  autumn  leaves.  A.  Spathulata,  leaves  carmine  and  green,  the  carmine 
predominating;  five  inches.  A.*  Spectabile,  leaves  orange,  bronze  and  scarlet.  A.  Versicolor, 
a  beautiful  and  distinct  variety  of  rose  and  deep  crimson  color ;  nine  inches. 

ALYSSUM,   SWEET  (Hardy' Annual). 

A  pretty  little  plant,  easy  to  rear  from  seed  and  to  cultivate  in  summer  and  winter  for 
bouquets,  its  pure  white  scented  flowers,  which  are  produced  abundantly,  rendering  it  valua- 
ble for  this  purpose.  For  summer  culture  sow  in  the  open  ground  where  it  is  to  bloom, 
or  transplant  from  the  seed  bed ;  in  either  case  leaving  four  inches  of  open  space  between 
the  plants.  It  is  also  a  useful  plant  for  hanging  basket  and  vase  culture.  To  have  an  abun- 
dance of  flowers  in  winter,  sow  about  July  1st  and  cultivate  in  pots  during  summer.  This 
plant  is  perennial  in  habit  if  the  flowers  are  picked  and  it  is  kept  in  a  growing  temperature. 

ALYSSUM,  VARIEGATED  SWEET  (Greenhouse  Perennial,  35,  50,  80° ). — This  is  a  pretty 
variegated  variety  that  is  grown  from  cuttings.  It  is  quite  similar  in  appearance  to  the  above 
variety,  but  white  predominates  over  the  green  in  the  leaves,  making  it  exceedingly  ornamental, 
aside  of  its  many  white  sweet  scented  flowers ;  although  one  of  the  finest  droopers  for  planting 
at  the  edge  of  hanging  baskets  and  vases,  and  also  as  a  pot  plant,  it  is  one  of  the  very  best  low 
bedding  plants  for  planting  in  ribbon  lines  or  for  edgings,  as  it  assumes  a  dense  compact  form 
when  bedded. 

AMARANTH  US  (Half-Hardy  Annual). 

While  some  varieties  of  the  Amaranthus  family  are  highly  esteemed  as  garden  and  pot  plants 
for  their  beautiful,  showy  foliage,  and  others  for  the  fantastic  form  and  arrangement  of  the  flowers 
and  foliage,  some  usually  advertised  in  seedmen's  catalogues  are  scarcely  deserving  of  culture, 
unless  planted  in  the  back  ground,  or  grouped  with  plants  to  be  seen  from  a  distance,  on  account 
of  the  coarseness  of  the  foliage  and  flowers,  but  these  are  so  easily  grown  from  seed,  which  may 
be  sown  directly  where  they  are  wanted,  that  after  all  perhaps  they  are  entitled  to  our  considera- 
tion. As  a  rule,  both  the  flowers  and  foliage  of  the  various  Amaranthus  are  more  brilliant  in  a 
poor  soil  and  also  in  dry  seasons. 

A.  JSicolor  Ruber,  a  very  fine,  new  bedding  plant,  the  seed  of  which  should  be  sown  in  heat 
in  March  or  April ;  the  lower  half  of  the  leaf  a  red  scarlet,  the  upper  half  maroon,  sometimes 


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37 


Fig.  34.     Begonia   Weltoniensis. 

tipped  with  yellow.  The  plants  are  not  always  true  to  color,  especially  when  grown  on  rich 
soil.  A.  Caudatus  (Love  Lies  Bleeding),  red,  graceful ;  3  feet.  A.  Cruentus  (Prince's  Feather), 
crimson;  3  feet.  A.  Melancholicus  Ruber,  a  very  showy  plant  of  fine  growth,  foliage  blood- 
red  ;  well  adapted  for  ribbon  belts  or  groups ;  one  and  one-half  feet  high.  A.  Salicifolius,  the 
Fountain  Plant,  from  the  graceful  manner  in  which  the  foliage  is  arranged ;  the  leaves  are  elon- 
gated and  willow-shaped,  and  of  a  bronzy  carmine  hue ;  sow  the  seed  in  heat.  A.  Tricolor 
(Joseph's  Coat),  leaves  red,  yellow  and  green ;  very  handsome  in  a  favorable  season. 

AMARYLLIS  FORMOSISSIMA,  JACOBEAN  LILY  (Tender  Bulb). 
There  are  several  species  of  the  Amaryllis  family,  all  of  which  produce  flowers  of  marvel- 
ous beauty,  but  the  variety  named  at  the  head  of  this  matter  is  one  of  the  most  common  as 
well  as  one  of  great  beauty.  The  flowers  are  large,  of  a  drooping  lily-like  shape,  and  of  the 
most  brilliant  dark  crimson  color;  they  are  produced  on  a  stalk  a  foot  high;  in  the  sunshine 
they  have  the  appearance  of  being  sprinkled  with  gold.  The  bulb  may  be  planted  out  the  latter 
part  of  May,  in  rich  sandy  soil,  to  a  depth  at  which  the  neck  of  the  bulb  shall  be  even  with 
the  soil;  it  will  flower  in  June  or  July.  After  the  tops  have  been  cut  down  by  frost  in  Septem- 
ber or  October,  the  bulbs  should  be  lifted  and  put  away  in  dry  sawdust,  safe  from  frost.  The 
Amaryllis  is  \vell  adapted  to  pot  culture  in  the  conservatory  or  on  the  window-shelf;  give  an 
abundance  of  water  until  after  flowering,  when  it  should  be  gradually  and  finally  altogether 
withdrawn.  After  several  months  of  rest  it  may  be  repotted  for  another  season  of  flowering. 

AMOBIUM    ALATUM  (Hardy  Annual). 

A  pretty  little  everlasting  flower  of  fine  appearance,  which  ranks  very  high  for  winter  bou- 
quets, on  account  of  its  unequaled  pure  white  color,  if  they  are  gathered  and  cured  by  hanging 
in  the  shade  before  being  fully  expanded ;  also  useful  for  cutting  fresh.  Grows  freely  in  any 
garden  soil. 


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ANEMONE  (Hardy  Tuber). 

Although  generally  known  as  a  hardy  tuberous  plant,  the  Anemone  Hortensis  is  not  suffi- 
ciently so  to  render  it  safe  to  plant  them  out  in  the  open  ground  in  the  fall  along  with  Hyacinths 
and  the  other  hardy  bulbs.  By  keeping  them  out  of  the  ground  and  at  the  earliest  opportunity 
in  the  spring  planting  them  in  a  bed  prepared  the  fall  previous,  and  that  has  been  kept 
covered,  they  will  succeed  very  well,  and  will  flower  from  April  until  July.  The  flowers  are 
produced  on  erect  stems,  six  to  nine  inches  in  height,  in  both  double  and  single  varieties ;  they 
are  of  the  most  brilliant  colors  with  beautiful  marks  and  stripes.  Plant  the  tubers,  which  have 
a  curious  appearance,  resembling  ginger  roots,  about  six  inches  apart  and  three  inches  deep. 
After  they  have  produced  their  flowers  for  the  season,  and  the  leaves  turn  yellow,  the  roots  may 
be  taken  up,  dried  in  the  shade  and  put  away  for  planting  again. 

ANEMONE  JAPONICA  (Hardy  Perennial). — This  is  a  very  desirable  hardy  plant,  introduced 
from  Japan.  There  are  several  varieties — A.  Rubra,  with  red  flowers,  and  A.  Alba  white,  being 
the  most  commonly  cultivated.  The  flowers  of  these  are  almost  two  inches  in  diameter,  and  are 
produced  in  great  profusion  for  a  long  time  the  latter  part  of  summer  and  in  autumn ;  the  plants 
attain  a  height  of  two  feet.  There  are  different  varieties  of  wild  or  wood  Anemones  found  grow- 
ing in  various  portions  of  the  United  States  and  Europe,  which  are  very  attractive  among  other 
early  wild  flowers. 

ANIMATED    OATS  (Hardy  Annual). 

Among  those  vegetable  growths  which  partake  of  a  curious  character,  the  seed  of  this  plant 
is  prominent  and  interesting.  Of  itself  it  has  a  strong  resemblance  to  an  insect  with  long  cricket- 
like  legs,  and  being  bearded  and  covered  with  spurs,  all  pointing  in  one  direction,  it  will  throw 
itself  ahead  with  a  darting,  springing  motion  sufficiently  life-like  in  appearance  to  be  deceptive 
if  laid  upon  a  paper  which  is  being  agitated ;  or  if  the  seeds  are  moistened,  so  sensitive  are 
their  strong  beards  to  alternations  of  dryness  and  moisture,  that  they  will  twist  and  keep  the 
seed  in  motion,  resembling  an  insect  crawling  on  the  ground.  Sow  in  the  open  ground. 

ANTIRRHINUM— SNAP-DRAGON  (Hardy  -Herbaceous  Perennial). 

I  class  the  Antirrhinum  among  hardy  perennials  because  it  is  of  perennial  habit,  and  will 
survive  our  winters  with  protection,  although  it  is  not  to  be  entirely  relied  upon  in  this  respect, 
as  some  seasons  it  will  die  out.  It  is,  however,  grown  so  readily  from  seed,  sown  either  in  the 
latter  part  of  summer  or  early  in  the  spring,  in  the  frame  or  hot-bed  or  in  the  open  ground,  that 
there  is  no  necessity  of  keeping  up  the  old  plants.  Flowers  freely  the  first  season  from  the  seed,  and 
better  the  second,  if  the  flowers  are  removed  as  fast  as  they  appear  the  first  season.  The  flowers 
are  bright  and  attractive,  appearing  for  a  long  time  and  until  cold  weather ;  also  easily  propaga- 
ted by  cuttings,  and  stock  plants  can  be  kept  over  in  a  cold-pit  until  February  or  March,  and 
then  started  into  growth  to  form  shoots  for  this  purpose.  Among  the  Antirrhinums  are  the  tall 
(two  feet  high),  dwarf  (one  foot  high)  and  Tom  Thumb  (six  inches  high)  sections,  the  following 
being  some  of  the  most  distinct  varieties : 

A.  Album,  pure  white,  both  tall  and  dwarf.  A.  Brilliant,  crimson  and  white,  both  tall  and 
dwarf.  A.  Ddila,  carmine,  white  thi-oat.  A.  Firefly,  orange  scarlet,  white  throat,  both  tall 
and  dwarf.  A.  Papillon,  scarlet,  white  and  yellow,  both  tall  and  dwarf.  A.  Purpureum,  deep 
bright  purple ;  dwarf.  A.  Striatum,  beautifully  striped ;  tall,  dwarf  and  Tom  Thumb. 

AQUILEGIA — COLUMBINE  (Hardy  Herbaceous  Perennial). 

A  family  of  plants  that  flower  the  first  part  of  the  season,  some  varieties  of  which  are  well 
known,  the  old  garden  Honeysuckle  being  one  of  these.  They  may  be  propagated  by  dividing 
the  roots,  or  some  of  the  varieties  by  seed. 

A.  Ccerulea,  a  beautiful  variety  recently  introduced  from  the  Rocky  mountains,  and  which  is 
entitled  to  be  generally  cultivated.  In  England  I  see  it  is  declared  to  be  "  not  only  the  Queen 
of  Columbines,  but  even  the  most  beautiful  of  all  hardy  herbaceous  plants."  The  color  is  a 
delicate  blue,  with  distinct  white  center,  and  the  remarkably  long  spurs  give  the  flower  an 
appearance  both  singular  and  striking. 

ASTER  (Hardy  Annual). 

The  Aster  is  one  of  the  grandest  families  of  seed-grown  plants  that  can  be  cultivated.  There 
are  tall  growing  varieties  two  to  three  feet  in  height,  and  from  these,  different  varieties  range 
variously  in  height,  all  the  way  down  to  the  very  dwarf,  not  more  than  eight  inches  high,  and 
which  spreads  out  so  as  to  present  the  appearance  of  a  bouquet  of  flowers  set  in  the  ground. 
The  flowers  are  of  the  most  attractive,  as  well  as  delicate,  colors,  including  pure  white,  and 
present  quite  a  variety  of  forms,  many  of  them  being  very  large  and  double  to  the  center.  The 
seed  may  be  started  early  in  the  hot-bed,  cold-frame,  or  seed-bed,  as  the  young  plants  transplant 
readily,  or  it  may  be  sown  in  the  open  ground  directly  where  they  are  to  flower.  Transplant  the 
large  varieties  to  about  ten  inches  apart,  and  the  dwarf  from  that  down  to  six.  The  tall  varie- 
ties should  be  supported  by  stakes  in  summer  to  prevent  the  rain  from  bending  or  breaking 
them  down. 

A.  Bouquet,  JVhvesf  Dwarf,  a  very  fine  acquisition,  each  plant  looks  like  a  bouquet  of 
flowers ;  eight  inches.  A.  Bouquet,  Divarf  Pyramidal,  ten  inches  high,  and  an  early  and  abun- 
dant bloomer.  A.  Chrysanthemum-flowered,  Dwarf  Double,  a  splendid  variety  of  dwarf  com- 


THE  HOME  FLORIST.  39 


pact  habit,  nine  inches  in  height,  producing  flowers  three  to  four  inches  across.  A.  Cocardeau, 
or  New  Crown,  a  fine  flower;  very  double;  the  central  petals  being  pure  white,  sometimes 
small  and  quilled;  sports  occasionally;  eighteen  inches.  A.  German,  Pyramidal-flowered, 
late,  branching,  good  habit ;  needs  no  tying.  A.  German,  Quilled,  desirable  on  account  of  the 
quilled  appearance  of  the  flowers;  about  three  feet  high.  A.  Hedge  Hog,  or  Needle,  petals  long, 
quilled  and  sharply  pointed,  very  curious  and  fine;  two  feet.  A.  La  Superbe,  large  flowering 
class,  often  more  than  four  inches  in  diameter,  twenty  inches  in  height.  A.  Pceony -flowered 
perfection,  Truffaufs  Newest,  one  of  the  best ;  very  large,  beautiful  flowers ;  petals  long  and  a  little 
reflexed ;  two  feet.  A.  Pearl,  this  is  entitled  to  be  called  a  gem  among  Asters ;  is  of  dwarf, 
compact,  bushy  habit,  not  above  fifteen  inches  in  height,  closely  set  with  beautiful  imbricated, 
double,  globular  flowers  of  good  colors.  A.  Rose,  Improved,  a  valuable  class  of  Asters,  pro- 
ducing very  double  and  large  flowers.  The  blood-red  color  of  this  variety  is  the  darkest  and 
most  brilliant  of  all  Asters;  two  feet.  A.  Victoria,  flowers  very  double,  imbricated,  globular 
and  large;  the  plant  is  very  robust,  about  two  feet  in  height  and  branching.  A.  Victoria, 
Dwarf,  only  one  foot  in  height,  but  very  rich  flowering,  with  flowers  three  to  four  inches  across. 
A.  Emperor,  Giant,  very  brilliant  and  beautiful  colors,  flowers  double  and  of  immense  size, 
often  four  inches  in  diameter;  two  feet. 

ASTILBE  JAPONICA— SPIREA  JAPONICA  (Hardy  Herbaceous  Perennial). 
One  of  the  most  beautiful  of  all  hardy  plants.  It  blooms  the  forepart  of  summer,  in  upright 
spikes  of  pure  white,  delicately -formed  flowers ;  the  foliage  is  of  compound  digitate  form,  and 
exceedingly  attractive,  being  also  of  a  deep,  uniform  green  color ;  height  of  plant,  one  and  a 
half  to  two  feet.  By  potting  the  Astilbe  at  the  approach  of  winter,  it  may  be  taken  into  the 
dwelling  or  conservatory,  and  forced  into  bloom,  by  which  means  it  becomes  very  attractive,  and 
thrives  readily. 

AZALEA  (Greenhouse  Shrubby  Perennial,  32,  50,  70°). 

Plants  of  high  value  for  window  and  conservatory  decoration,  being  covered  with  one  blaze 
of  beauty  in  the  spring  months,  and  continuing  to  increase  in  splendor  and  the  profusion  of 
flowers  with  each  year's  growth.  In  summer  they  may  be  moved  to  the  open  air,  and  the  pots 
plunged  to  the  rims  in  soil  in  some  shady  place,  such  as  against  a  fence  or  building,  until 
September,  when  they  should  be  taken,  for  the  winter,  either  into  the  conservatory  direct,  or  cellar 
or  cold-pit,  to  bring  in  for  flowering  at  any  time  between  February  and  May.  The  most  suitable 
time  for  re-potting  is  after  their  flowering  season ;  they  delight  in  a  light  soil  containing  some 
loam  from  the  woods. 

BALSAM— LADY'S  SLIPPER  (Tender  Annual).     See  Fig.  33. 

Balsams  are  a  class  of  plants  readily  grown  from  seed,  that  bountifully  repay  any  time  and 
expense  involved  in  rearing  them.  Their  double  flowers,  of  most  brilliant  colors  and  shape,  with 
the  beautiful  texture  of  the  petals,  rank  them  among  the  finest  of  flowers,  but  unfortunatly  being 
short  stemmed,  their  use  in  ordinary  bouquets  is  precluded ;  they  can,  however,  be  employed 
in  arranging  plate  bouquets  or  upon  baskets  of  moss,  very  well.  The  pure  white  variety  is 
largely  grown  by  florists  for  making  into  wreaths,  harps  and  other  designs,  suitable  for  funerals, 
by  first  stemming  them  with  wire  on  short  bits  of  match  stick  and  inserting  into  wire  forms  filled 
with  moss,  so  that  the  flower  touches ;  frequently  no  other  flowers  are  used  but  the  double  white 
Balsam,  and  the  effect  produced  is  complete.  For  ordinary  culture  the  seed  may  be  sown  in 
the  hot-bed,  cold-frame,  or  seed-bed,  transplanting  the  plants  finally,  to  a  distance  of  ten  or 
twelve  inches  apart,  after  the  second  set  of  leaves  have  started.  Few  plants  are  susceptible  of 
such  great  improvement  by  pinching  as  is  the  Balsam ;  they  may  be  trained  to  one,  three  or 
five  branches  for  flowering,  and  in  either  case  will  be  more  pleasing  than  if  allowed  to  take  their 
natural  course  in  growing,  or  some  plants  may  be  trained  to  each  method,  thus  creating  a  variety 
in  themselves.  To  train  to  one  branch,  simply  remove  all  side  shoots  as  they  appear ;  this  will 
cause  it  to  grow  two  or  three  feet  in  height,  and  be  perfectly  covered  with  bloom.  For  three  or 
five  shoots,  pinch  back  the  terminal  and  all  side  shoots  but  the  number  it  is  desired  to  have 
remain  for  flowering.  The  American  climate  is  well  adapted  to  the  Balsam,  and  if  grown  in 
good  rich  soil,  flowers  of  great  excellence  can  be  produced,  although  it  seems  to  be  an  established 
fact  that  some  flowers  will  come  only  partially  double  from  the  best  strains  of  double  seed.  The 
plant  is  well  adapted  for  pot  culture  in  summer,  by  having  the  soil  of  good  loamy  quality,  well 
enriched,  and  giving  it  a  sunny  position  and  plenty  of  water.  Nothing  smaller  than  a  six-inch 
pot  will  answer  well  for  this  purpose. 

B.  Camellia-flowered,  spotted  German,  very  double  and  choice,  spotted  with  white.  B. 
Camellia-flowered,  pure  white.  B.  Camellia-flowered,  double  dwarf,  very  fine;  eight  or  ten  inches 
in  height.  B.  Carnation,  fine  double  flowers,  resembling  a  Carnation.  B.  Victoria,  satiny 
white,  spotted  with  scarlet ;  exceedingly  pretty.  B.  Rose-flowered,  perfectly  double.  B.  Extra 
Double  Dwarf,  very  double ;  eight  inches. 

BEGONIA  (Greenhouse  Perennial,  36,  55,  80°). 

An  interesting  family  of  plants  in  their  two  divisions  of  flowering  and  showy  leaf  varieties. 
The  more  free-flowering  varieties  of  the  former  are  indispensable  in  every  florist  establishment, 
their  flowering  qualities  rendering  them  valuable  for  bouquets.  They  are  also  well  adapted  for 


THE  HOME  FLORIST. 


Fig,  33.     Begonia  Rex. 

pot^culture  in  the  window,  or  out-of-door  plant  stand,  and  in  hanging  baskets,  and  also  Fern- 
eries, but  possess  no  real  value  for  bedding  in  the  garden  unless  planted  in  a  warm  place  well 
protected  from  winds.  During  the  greater  portion  of  the  year  the  plants  are  covered  with  a 
profusion  of  gracefully  drooping  racemes  of  rose,  pink,  white  and  crimson  buds  and  blossoms  of 
an  exceedingly  attractive,  waxy,  coral-like  appearance.  The  plants  are  of  neat,  compact  habit, 
Avith  glossy  green  leaves  in  some  varieties  and  exquisitely  cut,  in  others.  Both  sections  of 
the  Begonia  family  delight  in  warm,  sandy,  well-enriched  soil. 

B.  Fuchsioides  coccinea,  deep  scarlet;  quite  a  free  grower,  although  all  are  good  in  this 
respect.  B.  Glaucaphyllia  scandens,  an  early  flowering  variety,  producing  its  clusters  of  rich 
salmon-colored  flowers  from  the  axle  of  each  leaf;  the  plant  being  of  a  lovely  drooping  habit,  it 
is  exceedingly  fine  for  hanging  baskets,  in  a  warm  place.  B.  Hybrida  multiflora,  a  remarka- 
bly neat  and  free-flowering  variety,  with  small,  ovate,  glossy  leaves,  and  many  rosy  pink  blos- 
soms; excellent.  B.  Nitida,  a  strong  growing  variety,  producing  beautiful,  large,  salmon- 
colored  flowers.  B.  Nitida  alba,  a  free  growing,  profuse-blooming  variety,  producing  panicles 
of  pure  white  flowers  during  the  winter  months.  B.  Palmata,  attractive,  palm-shaped  leaves 
B.  Parviflora,  dwarf;  a  neat  growing  plant,  with  white  flowers;  blooms  most  profusely  in 
summer,  when  its  flowers  are  useful  for  bouquets.  B.  Saundersonii (Coral  Begonia),  one  of 
the  bast  flowering  Begoaias ;  the  flowers  are  of  a  scarlet  shade  of  crimson,  borne  in  profusion 
during  the  entire  winter  months;  leaves  slightly  edged  with  scarlet.  B,  Weltoniensis,  this 
valuable  acquisition,  of  recent  introduction,  I  consider  deserving  of  more  than  an  ordinary 
notice.  It  is  a  rapid,  healthy  grower,  very  profuse  bloomer,  with  beautiful  foliage,  and  always 
presents  an  attractive  appearance,  summer  and  winter.  Fig.  34  represents  a  pot  plant  of  this 
variety,  and  also  the  individual  leaf  and  flowers,  but  it  is  impossible  to  fairly  portray  them  in 
the  black  and  white  of  a  wood  engraving.  The  richness  of  the  surface  of  the  leaves,  in  a  natural 
specimen,  show  various  shades  of  dark  and  light  green  colors  of  intense  richness,  and  presents 
a  transparent  depth  of  texture,  without  any  gloss  whatever,  of  the  most  exquisite  beauty,  being 
somewhat  similar — except  in  color — to  the  bloom  on  the  grape.  The  flowers  and  buds  are  a 
beautiful  pink  color,  and  are  produced  in  clusters,  by  the  hundred,  on  an  ordinary  sized  plant, 
with  common  culture.  The  leaf-stalk  and  the  entire  stalk  and  branches  of  the  plant  are  dark 
crimson,  and  sufficiently  striking  to  create  a  contrast,  which  is  as  remarkable  as  it  is  rare,  among 
plants,  with  the  brilliant  green  leaves  and  the  pink  flowers.  Unlike  many  plants  that  possess 
unusually  meritorious  characteristics  this  new  Begonia  is  unexcelled  by  any  6f  the  old  tested 


77/2"  HOME  FLORIST.  4i 

varieties,  for  freeness  of  growth  and  flowering  qualities,  and  the  pfant  naturally  assumes  a  well- 
pi  oportioned  form. 

SHOWY-LEAF  BEGONIAS. — Of  the  show  leaf  varieties  I  will  state  that  lovers 'of  the  beautiful 
in  Nature's  grotesque  growths  will  find  in  this  entire  division  much  to  admire.  Their  large, 
attractive  and  interesting  leaves,  add  an  effect  to  collections  of  plants  which- can  be  equaled  by 
nothing  else  grown.  Fig.  35  represents  a  leaf  of  the  Rex  variety,  at  about  one-fourth  the 
natural  size  of  well  grown  leaves.  Imagine  in  the  engraving  the  light  part  of  the  leaf  to  be  a 
bright  greenish  silver  hue ;  the  center  and  outer  edge  a  lively,  almost  black  green  in  some  places, 
or  rather  several  shades  of  green,  spotted  lightly  with  silver.  Imagine  the  upper  surface  of  the 
leaf-ribs  to  be  studded  with  small  crimson  hairs,  while  the  extreme  edge  is  fringe-like,  with  a 
crimson  scarlet  color,  as  is  also  the  underside,  and  with  this  the  veins  distinctly  prominent  and 
showy,  and  you  can  form  an  idea  of  the  beauty  of  this  entire  section.  All  the  varieties  are 
suitable  for  pot  culture,  and  for  hanging  baskets  in  protected  places.  They  delight  in  a  warm, 
shady,  place,  and  should  not  be  exposed  to  sweeping  drafts  of  air.  In  habit  and  general 
appearance  the  first  and  last  named  varieties  in  the  following  descriptions  are  quite  similar  to 
the  flowering  section,  being  upright  growers,  with  branches,  while  the  others  are  prostrate  in 
habit,  although  the  leaves  stand  well  up  on  strong  stems. 

' B.  Argyrostygma  Veitchii,  a  very  handsome  variety,  leaves  smooth,  of  medium  size,  light 
green  and  thickly  covered  with  small,  clear  silver  markings;  underside,  of  a  crimson  color, 
smooth;  white  flowers;  easy  to  cultivate.  B.  El  Dorado,  medium  sized  leaf,  distinctly 
marked  and  of  a  peculiar  velvety  texture.  B.  Insignis,  a  free  grower,  leaves  of  medium  size 
with  a  metallic  lustre.  B.  Luxuriance,  leaves  nearly  star-shaped,  borne  on  stems  a  foot 
l°ng;  grotesque.  B.  Mary  Stuart,  large  showy  leaves;  an  old  favorite,  perhaps  the  best  in 
cultivation.  B.  Mrs.  Victor  Lemoine,  light  colored  leaf,  with  the  edges  and  center  beautifully 
marked  like  lace.  B.  Queen  of  Begonias,  a  good  grower.  B.  Rex,  a  fine  variety ;  excellent, 
described  above.  (See  Fig.  35).  B.  Silver  Queen,  a  variety  in  which  the  silvery  color  predomi- 
nates. B.  Zebrlna,  a  beautiful  upright  grower  of  bold  appearance,  with  thick  leathery  leaves 
from  four  to  six  inches  long  and  two  wide  in  their  widest  parts ;  of  a  very  dark  green  color, 
striped  with  silvery  marks;  underside  and  stems  of  dark  crimson  and  red  colors;  a  very  hand- 
some variety. 

BOUVARDIA  (Greenhouse  Perennial,  33,  60,  90°). 

A  highly  useful  family  of  shrubby  plants  for  the  greenhouse  and  the  window,  if  warm  and 
sunny,  and  for  bedding  out,  blooming  all  summer  in  the  beds,  and  when  properly  prepared  in 
pots  will  also  bloom  continually  during  winter  in  the  conservatory  or  other  suitable  place. 
Thousands  of  feet  of  glass  are  each  year  devoted  to  the  culture  of  Bouvardias  alone,  for  bouquet 
flowers  in  the  vicinity  of  our  large  cities.  The  flowers  are  of  an  exceedingly  beautiful,  substan- 
tial, waxy  character,  of  bright  and  desirable  colors,  from  the  purest  white  to  scarlet.  A  mel- 
low open  soil  is  best  suited  for  the  Bouvardia.  As  it  requires  a  high  temperature  for  its 
growth,  the  plants  should  not  be  bedded  out  in  the  latitude  of  Buffalo  before  the  latter  part  of 
May.  For  winter  flowering  they  should  be  started  the  spring  previous,  and  grown  in  about  five-inch 
pots  until  September,  when  they  may  be  shifted  into  a  larger  size  for  flowering  (observe  direc- 
tions for  summer  and  fall  treatment  on  page  14).  Towards  spring  the  flowering  and  other  shoots 
should  be  severely  pruned  back  to  induce  a  stocky  new  growth  for  summer  flowering.  With 
one  exception,  Bouvardias  are  only  propagated  by  root  cuttings  and  by  a  course  of  treat- 
ment hardly  practical  outside  of  a  good  propagating  house. 

B.  Davidsonii,  a  free  flowering,  pure  white  variety;  excellent  and  distinct.  B.  Elegans, 
vermillipn  red,  bright  and  free  blooming ;  the  most  generally  cultivated  of  all.  B.  Hogarth, 
dark  crimson.  B.  Jasiminoides,  pure  white;  susceptible  of  being  increased  from  cuttings. 
B.  Leiantha,  scarlet,  profuse;  one  of  the  best. 

BROWALIA  (Half-Hardy  Annual). 

A  class  of  flowers  usually  grown  in  the  garden,  but  also  quite  suitable  for  pot  culture. 
There  are  two  varieties,  the  colors  of  which  are  blue  and  white  respectively.  The  flowers  are 
not  large,  but  are  pretty  and  distinct,  and  are  freely  produced  for  a  long  time  on  a  stalk  a  foot 
and  a  half  high.  The  seed  may  be  sown  in  the  open  ground  where  they  are  to  flower,  or  in  a 
protected  bed,  from  which  they  may  be  transplanted  to  a  distance  of  twelve  inches  apart. 

BUTTERCUP.     See  Ranunculus. 

CACALIA— FLORA'S  PAINT  BRUSH  (Half-Hardy  Annual). 

Plants  grown  with  the  greatest  ease  from  seed,  which  may  be  sown  in  the  open  ground  in 
May,  or  earlier  in  the  hot-bed,  or  other  protected  situation,  and  afterwards  transplant  them  to 
the  garden.  The  flowers  range  from  scarlet  to  yellow  in  color,  are  bright  and  pretty,  and  some- 
what resemble  a  miniature  brush  ;  they  are  small  and  produced  in  clusters  on  long  stems,  on 
which  account  they  are  useful  for  bouquets,  although  not  strikingly  brilliant.  The  plants  attain 
a  height  of  from  eighteen  inches  to  two  feet,  and  are  in  bloom  throughout  the  summer  months. 

CACTUS  (Greenhouse  Perennial,  35,  50,  95°). 

A  well  known  family  of  succulent,  fleshy  plants,  all  of  which  are  natives  of  the  warmer 
regions  of  America.  They  are  desirable  as  pot  plants,  on  account  of  the  remarkably  singular 
forms  of  growths  which  the  various  species  assume ;  their  almost  unexceptional  beautiful  flowers 


THE  HOME  FLORIST. 


which  are  produced  in  ordinary  culture,  and  the  ease  with  which  they  are  cultivated,  either  in 
the  window  or  conservatory.  To  grow  the  Cactus  readily  all  that  is  necessary  is  to  imitate  the 
natural  conditions  of  their  growth.  They  are  found  in  their  greatest  perfection  in  sections 
which  are  subject  to  severe  drouths  of  long  duration,  alternate  with  long  wet  spells,  and  accord- 
ingly a  free  application  of  water  should  be  given  for  three  or  four  months  and  then  be  with- 
held almost  wholly  during  the  rest  of  the  year.  They  may  be  kept  dryest  during  winter,  but 
not  in  a  place  where  it  is  cold.  Repotting  them  frequently  is  not  agreeable  with  their  well  doing, 
and  it  should  be  done  not  oftener  than  once  a  year.  April  is  the  best  time  for  performing  this 
operation,  after  which  they  may  receive  an  increase  of  water.  They  delight  in  a  sandy  soil  not 
too  rich.  The  bottom  of  every  pot  should  be  covered  with  an  inch  of  broken  pots  or  rough 
gravel  for  drainage. 

CALADIUM    ESCULENTUM  (  Greenhotise  Bulb,  35,  55,  8f  ). 

A  beautiful,  large  decorative  plant  of  most  imposing  appearance  that  will  accommodate  itself 
to  various  courses  of  treatment.  As  a  pot  plant,  grown  in  the  conservatory  or  window 

in  winter,  and  removed  to  a  place 
sheltered  from  winds  in  the  summer, 
it  grows  to  the  height  of  four  feet, 
and  with  its  immense  leaves  lends  a 
tropical  appearance  to  collections, 
which  is  exceedingly  effective.  For 
garden  culture  the  treatment  suited  to 
the  Dahlia  precisely  meets  the  wants 
of  this  plant.  It  delights  in  a  warm 
sandy  soil,  and  may  be  left  out  until 
frosts  cut  down  the  foliage  before  tak- 
ing up  for  the  winter.  As  a  single 
specimen  pot  plant  it  is  without  a 
superior,  although  somewhat  subject  to 
attacks  of  red  spider.  (See  engraving, 
Fig.  36.) 

CALANDRINIA  (Half-Hardy 

Annual). 

Free  growing  plants,  producing 
heads  of  rosy,  white  and  other  colored 
flowers  freely  during  the  summer,  that 
are  desirable  in  the  garden  considering 
the  slight  expense  and  trouble  neces- 
Fig.  36.  Caladium  Esculentum.  sary  to  rear  them,  although  they  can- 

not  be  classed  among  very  fine  flowers.  They  remain  in  flower  until  after  frosts,  and  are 
frequently  quite  pretty  thus  late  in  the  season.  Sow  in  May  where  they  are  to  flower,  or  earlier 
in  heat  or  protected  bed  and  transplant. 

CALCEOLARIA— CARPET   BAG  OR  MOCCASIN  FLOWER  (Greenhouse  Perennials, 

32,  45*  75° )• 

SHRUBBY  CALCEOLARIAS. — These  are  free  blooming  plants  of  good  habits,  which  produce 
exceedingly  novel  and  attractive  flo.wers  of  irregular  parts,  the  lower  lip  of  each  being  a  large 
inflated  sac  that  presents  an  appearance  which  not  inappropriately  entitles  it  to  the  common 
name  of  Carpet  Bag  or  Moccasin  Flower.  The  plants  are  of  erect  shrubby  habit,  growing 
to  a  height  of  from  one  to  two  feet.  They  are  valuable  as  pot  plants  in  the  window  or  conser- 
vatory, or  for  bedding  out  in  positions  that  are  shaded  the  hottest  part  of  each  day,  as  the 
intense  heat  of  the  sun  in  summer  is  not  favorable  to  its  growth'  and  bloom.  In  the  autumn 
they  are  the  last  to  sustain  injury  from  freezing,  and  can  then  be  taken  up  and  wintered  in  a 
well  protected  cold  pit  or  cellar  with  ease.  Also  suitable  for  the  conservatory  or  window 
in  winter.  Propagate  from  cuttings  of  the  young  growth.  There  are  numerous  varieties,  but 
the  following  combine  the  greatest  number  of  good  points,  all  of  which  have  pure,  rich  colors, 
and  are  of  good  form  and  size : 

C.  Aurea  Floribunda,  rich  sulphur  yellow.  C.  Fulgens,  crimson  maroon.  C.  Golden  Prince, 
an  excellent  bright  yellow.  C.  Mrs.  Woodruff,  deep  crimson ;  large  and  brilliant ;  a  tall  grower. 
C.  Queen  of  Oude,  large  crimson  maroon,  mottled  in  the  most  pleasing  manner. 

HERBACEOUS  CALCEOLARIAS. — These  belong  to  a  distinct  section  of  the  family,  being  reared 
from  seed  sown  in  the  greenhouse  in  the  summer  months,  the  plants  flowering  the  following 
spring.  Although  the  hybrid  varieties  are  among  the  most  showy  plants  in  cultivation 
for  decorating  the  conservatory,  their  culture  would  not  be  likely  to  result  successfully  in  the 
window.  The  seeds  are  very  fine  and  require  careful  treatment  in  sowing.  As  soon  as  the 
young  seedlings  can  be  handled  they  should  be  potted  into  small  pots  and  given  a  place  near  the 
glass.  Shift  them  into  larger  pots  before  the  roots  mat  around  the  ball  of  earth,  as  their  growth 
is  liable  to  be  checked  if  they  become  pot  bound,  and  the  green  fly  be  invited.  They  require  a 
rich  sandy  soil. 


THE  HOME  FLORIST.  43 


CALENDULA — CAPE  MARIGOLD  (Hardy  Annual). 

A  desirable  class  of  free  growing  annuals  which  flower  almost  continually  throughout  the 
summer  and  until  after  frosts,  although  some  might  consider  them  coarse,  and  with  too  few 
flowers. 

C.  La  Prousti  is  a  new  double  variety,  of  nankeen  color,  edged  with  brown.  C.  Pluvialis, 
single,  white,  of  a  remarkably  pure  color. 

CALL  A — ETHIOPIAN  LILY  (Greenhouse  Perennial,  33,  45,  80°). 

Of  all  plants  which  are  suitable  for  cultivating  in  pots  in  the  window  none  are  superior  to 
the  highly  esteemed  and  easily  managed  Calla,  while  very  few  equal  it.  The  same  is  true  of  its 
general  value  as  a  conservatory  plant,  excepting  that  it  meets  some  rivals  here  which  do  not 
prove  so  formidable  in  the  window  garden,  because  few  can  be  grown  in  the  window  to  the 
magnificent  perfection  which  this  plant  and  its  flowers  reach.  The  flowers  are  large,  pure 
white,  and  possess  a  delicate  fragrance,  which  render  them  the  very  embodiment  of  purity 
and  elegance.  They  are  produced  singly  on  long  stems,  and  remain  beautiful  for  several 
weeks.  The  plants  bloom  most  freely  in  early  spring,  and  are  grown  largely  by  florists  for 
adorning  churches  at  Easter,  the  flowers  being  exceedingly  appropriate  for  this  purpose.  The 
best  course  of  treatment  for  the  Calla  is,  after  they  have  flowered  during  fall,  winter  and  spring, 
to  give  them  a  state  of  rest  until  August,  by  keeping  the  entire  ball  of  soil  next  thing  to  dust-dry. 
At  this  time  they  should  have  the  ball  of  earth  thoroughly  soaked,  to  facilitate  washing  the 
soil  from  the  roots,  which  should  be  done,  and  small  offsets  be  removed,  after  which  the 
tuberous  root  should  be  potted  in  a  rich  soil,  and  given  an  abundance  of  water  daily,  until  and 
all  during  their  flowering  season,  up  to  their  next  annual  rest.  It  is  impossible  to  overdo  the 
watering,  to  the  injury  of  the  plant,  as  its  nature  admits  of  its  growing  in  \vater  constantly, 
which  renders  it  valuable  for  planting  in  aquariums.  If  the  soil  is  of  a  clayey  loam  nature, 
all  the  better.  The  small  offsets  from  the  root  may  be  potted  for  new  stock.  There  are  two 
varieties,  the  tall  and  the  dwarf  (Calla  Ethiopica  Nana),  both  of  which  have  white  flowers. 
The  tall  kind  grows  to  the  height  of  from  two  to  three  feet,  and  the  dwarf  from  twelve  to  twenty 
inches,  with  a  proportionate  difference  in  the  size  of  the  flowers. 

CALLIOPSIS,  OR  COREOPSIS  (Hardy  Annual). 

Annuals  that  produce  an  abundance  of  convenient  long-stemmed  flowers,  throughout  the 
season,  of  unusually  rich  bright  colors,  such  as  yellow  and  crimson,  yellow  and  brown,  velvety 
crimson,  blood-red,  yellow  with  crimson  spots,  etc.  There  are  dwarf  and  tall  varieties,  the 
former  growing  from  one  to  two  feet,  the  latter,  two  feet  and  upwards.  Of  easy  culture  in  any 
garden  soil. 

CAMELLIA  (Greenhouse  Perennial,  32,  jo,  75°). 

In  the  conservatory  the  Camellia  is  queen  of  winter  flowers,  and  to  the  commercial  florist 
during  winter  is  valuable  above  all  others  for  making  bouquets,  baskets  of  flowers,  etc. 
It  is  well  adapted  to  cultivation  in  the  window,  as  regards  the  suitability  of  the 
situation,  as  the  plant  naturally  grows  in  shady  places  in  the  woods,  but  to  be  successful  in 
having  it  flower  it  requires  strict  attention  to  its  peculiar  wants  in  other  respects.  The  plant 
produces  its  large  flowers  during  the  winter.  They  are  from  three  to  six  inches  in  diameter, 
very  pleasing  and  perfect  in  form,  the  petals  being  thick  and  of  the  most  extraordinary  satiny 
texture.  The  principal  colors  are  pure  (purest)  white — the  favorite  color — bright  rose,  cherry 
color,  scarlet  rose,  bright  red  variegated,  salmon  rose  and  others.  After  flowering,  the 
Camellia  makes  its  plant  growth,  preceding  which  time  it  should  be  re-potted,  if  at  all. 
They  require  shifting  but  once  every  two  years,  except  with  very  thrifty  young  plants,  which 
may  receive  it  each  spring.  Any  soil  is  suited  to  its  growth,  provided  it  is  well  enriched  with 
one-third  part  of  leaf  mould  and  thoroughly  rotten  manure.  With  its  growth  in  spring,  we 
meet  with  the  distinct  peculiarity  of  this  plant,  in  forming  its  flower  buds,  more  than  half  a 
year  previous  to  their  opening  into  flowers,  and  it  is  during  the  long  time  between  which  it  forms 
its  flower  buds,  and  the  season  of  their  opening,  that  the  treatment — either  good  or  bad — which 
the  plant  receives,  decides  whether  it  will  develop  the  buds,  usually  formed  in  abundance,  into 
flowers,  or  whether  they  will  drop  from  the  plant  some  weeks  before  their  time  of  opening,  a 
condition  of  affairs,  perhaps,  most  commonly  met  by  inexperienced  cultivators.  Were  the 
treatment  it  requires  during  this  time  difficult,  there  would  be  a  good  excuse  for  an  unfortu- 
nate termination  of  the  flower-buds,  but  this  is  by  no  means  the  case.  The  plant  simply 
requires  a  light,  shady  place  in  summer,  such  as  may  be  found  in  a  shaded  greenhouse  that  is 
well  ventilated  (see  "Summer  Management  of  the  Amateur's  Conservatory"),  or  in  the  shade  of 
a  building  or  verandah,  and  be  given  an  abundance  of  water,  also  paying  attention  to  cleanliness, 
of  the  thick  leathery  foliage.  The  plant  will  become  dry  enough  to  injure  the  flower-buds, 
without  showing  it,  by  the  leaves  drooping  as  in  other  plants.  Its  habit  is  deceitful  in  this 
respect,  the  leaves  looking  green  and  bright,  although  the  soil  is  quite  too  dry  for  its  general 
good,  and  especially  for  the  flower-buds.  The  soil  must,  however,  not  be  kept  in  a  soaked 
condition,  as  this  would  prove  as  great  an  injury  as  the  other.  Water  should  be  applied  only 
when  the  surface  becomes  dry,  and  then  a  sufficient  quantity  should  be  poured  on,  to  entirely 
soak  the  ball  of  earth,  letting  this  suffice  until  the  plant  requires  and  is  given  another 
thorough  watering,  which  may  be  the  next  day  or  later.  During  its  flowering  season 


44  THE  PIOME  FLORIST. 


water  must  not  be  spared,  and  in  the  dwelling  the  atmosphere  should  be  kept  as  moist  as 
practical.  In  the  conservatory,  that  portion  where  the  Camellias  ai-e  kept,  must  have  the  glass 
shaded  from  the  sun  as  soon  in  the  spring  as  the  plants  start  into  growth,  or  else  the  leaves  will 
become  spotted.  Keep  a  lookout  for  Red  Spider  on  the  leaves ;  these  insects,  although  not 
particularly  troublesome  to  this  plant,  sometimes  makes  inroads  upon  them  before  we  are 
aware  of  their  presence. 

CAMPANULA  (Hardy  Annuals  and  Perennials). 

The  annual  Campanulas  are  neat,  free-flowering  plants  of  small  size;  are  useful  for 
massing.  The  colors  are  not  bright,  and  range  from  white  to  rosy  purple  and  blue ;  should  be 
sown  where  they  are  to  bloom.  The  hardy  section  includes  the  well-known  Canterbury  Bells 
(Campanula  Medium),  which  is  readily  grown  from  the  seed,  and  other  desirable  sorts. 

CANDYTUFT  (Hardy  Annuals,  Principally). 

The  annual  Candytuft  is.  one  of  the  most  useful  plants  that  can  be  cultivated.  It  is  grown 
from  the  seed  with  ease,  and  in  a  remarkably  short  time  after  sowing,  the  plant  will  start 
up  and  become  completely  covered  with  flowers,  if  the  weather  is  warm.  The  same 
plants  will  not  flower  freely  during  the  entire  summer,  and  it  is  better  to  sow  several  times 
for  succession,  where  an  abundance  of  flowers  are  constantly  desired.  They  will  bloom  until 
after  frosts.  The  flowers  are  pure  white,  and  several  shades  of  crimson,  and  lilac,  and  are  very 
suitable  for  bouquet-making.  The  seed  may  be  sown  very  early  in  the  spring.  Thin  out  the 
plants  to  be  four  or  six  inches  apart.  The  Hardy  Candytuft  (Iberis  Sempervirens)  is  a  hardy 
plant  of  spreading  habit  which  produces  an  abundance  of  pure  white  flowers  early  in  the  spring. 
It  does  not  die  to  the  ground  in  winter,  and  should  be  somewhat  protected  to  keep  the  foliage 
green ;  may  be  propagated  by  layers. 

CANARY   BIRD   FLOWER.     See  Tropeeolum. 
CANNA   (Tender  Bulbous  Perennial). 

This  is  a  genus  of  ornamental  plants  that  are  peculiarly  adapted  to  the  American  climate. 
They  thrive  with  the  greatest  vigor,  either  if  grown  in  pots  or  bedded  in  the  garden,  and 
produce  a  stately  tropical  effect,  with  their  broad  massive  foliage  and  beautiful  flowers,  under 
the  most  ordinary  treatment  and  care.  The  Canna  is  freely  propagated  by  division  of  the  roots 
at  planting  time.  During  winter,  the  roots  should  be  kept  in  sand  in  a  dry  cellar,  or  under 
the  bench  in  the  conservatory.  Only  the  least  showy  sorts  come  well  from  seed,  the  really 
valuable  varieties  being  shy  seeders. 

C.  Bicolor,  a  beautiful  free-growing  variety,  with  a  blending  of  various  shades  of  green  in 
the  foliage.  C.  Giganteus  Aurcantica,  foliage  yellowish  green,  of  fine  appearance  and  free- 
growing  habit.  C.  Indica,  flowers  scarlet,  foliage  green,  free  grower.  C.  Tricolor,  is  a  variety 
of  recent  introduction,  and  is  very  desirable  as  a  compact  grower  three  feet  high,  with  beauti- 
fully marked  leaves.  The  stem,  with  the  young  terminal  growth,  and  also  leaf  margins,  are 
tinted  with  red,  making  an  elegant  contrast  to  the  general  effect  of  the  foliage,  which  is  densely 
streaked  and  mottled  with  creamy  white.  C.  Warzewiczi,  foliage  striped  with  dark  maroon- 
like  crimson  and  green,  the  leaves  growing  eighteen  inches  long  from  the  stalk,  and  eight  or 
ten  inches  wide.  I  have  measured  clumps  of  this  variety,  grown  from  a  single  plant  set  out 
in  spring,  that  were  by  September  over  four  feet  high,  with  leaves  extending  two  feet  from  the 
center  each  way ;  a  superior  variety. 

CARNATION— MONTHLY  OR   TREE  (Greenhouse  Perennial,  27,  jo,  8f). 

The  Monthly  Carnation  I  take  pleasure  in  recommending  to  all  cultivators  of  flowers,  because 
but  few  plants  possessing  its  hardiness  and  ease  of  culture  have  so  many  rare  qualities.  It  is  a 
rival  of  the  Rose,  the  Japan  Lily  and  other  plants  of  equally  high  order.  The  flowers  are  delici- 
ously  fragrant,  and  possess,  in  the  different  varieties,  colors  unsurpassed  in  richness  and  beauty. 
The  plants  if  set  in  spring  bloom  abundantly  all  summer  in  the  flower  garden,  and  plants  properly 
prepared  flower  just  as  freely  all  during  winter  in  the  window  or  conservatory.  For  this  latter 
named  purpose  they  should  be  grown  in  the  garden  until  the  middle  of  September,  removing  all 
flower  buds  as  they  appear.  (See  Preparatory  Treatment  of  Plants  designed  for  Winter  Flower- 
ing, page  14.)  Some  varieties  are  better  adapted  for  winter  flowering  than  others.  President 
Degrau,  Edwardsii,  La  Purity,  De  Fontaine  and  Valliant  generally  are  preferred  for  this  purpose. 
In  open  ground  plant  not  nearer  than  one  foot  apart ;  they  may  be  propagated  from  layers  of 
the  branches  or  from  cuttings. 

Edwardsii,  pure  white,  large.  De  Fontaine,  yellow  ground,  edged  -with  scarlet,  white  and 
crimson ;  extra.  Fortuneii,  crimson.  La  Purity,  deep  carmine,  profuse  and  large  flowering ; 
very  choice.  Louise  Lenoir,  dark  crimson.  Louis  Zeller,  white.  President  Degrau,  pure 
white ;  the  best  white  for  general  purposes.  Solferino,  dark  crimson  scarlet.  Valliant,  small, 
bright  scarlet,  profuse  bloomer.  Variegated  La  Purity,  carmine  and  white. 

CARPET  BAG  OR  MOCCASIN  FLOWER.     See  Calceolaria. 

CELOSIA— COCKSCOMB  (Half-Hardy  Annual). 
A  class  of  plants  desirable  in  every  collection  on  account  of  the  singular  and  attractive 


THE  HOME  FLORIST. 


45 


Fig.  37.     Monthly  Carnation  Plant  in  Pot.  Fig.  38.     Monthly  Carnation  Flower. 

appearance  and  growth  of  the  flowers.  They  possess  numerous  good  colors,  scarlet  or  crimson 
being  the  most  brilliant,  and  are  exceedingly  rich  and  showy.  The  plants  are  grown  from  seed, 
which  should  be  started  in  heat,  and  transplanted  to  the  garden  after  frosts  are  over,  as  they  are 
easily  killed  by  freezing.  In  the  hot-bed  or  window  give  plenty  of  air  to  the  young  seedlings 
lest  they  dampen  off  or  rot  to  the  ground.  The  plants,  especially  of  the  dwarf  varieties,  are 
admirably  suited  to  pot  culture  in  summer,  thriving  almost  equal  to  those  planted  out,  if  the  soil 
is  rich  and  sandy.  Several  new  varieties  of  late  years  are  attracting  considerable  attention. 

CENTAUREA  (Greenhouse  Perennial,  30,  43,  80°). 

An  interesting  and  beautiful  genus  of  white-foliaged  ornamental  plants  that  rank  higher 
among  the  several  distinct  kinds  possessing  similar  attractions  than  any  other  family,-  either 
when  grown  in  pots,  baskets  or  vases,  or  if  bedded  out,  for  which  purpose  they  are  not  only 
generally  valuable  but  exceedingly  attractive,  especially  when  used  for  planting  at  the  edge  of 
beds  containing  large  growing  Cannas,  etc.,  or  for  contrasting  with  Coleus,  Achryanthes,  etc., 
in  ribbon  lines  and  masses.  They  are  easily  grown,  comparatively  hardy,  and  few  plants  in  our 
collections  are  more  satisfactory  to  the  cultivator. 

C.  Candida,  a  lovely  plant  of  neat,  compact,  bushy  growth,  with  exceedingly  pretty  silver- 
colored  foliage.  C.  Gymnocarpa,  a  variety  with  attractive  cut  foliage,  of  graceful  semi-droop- 
ing habit.  It  is  one  of  the  finest  plants  in  cultivation  for  planting  in  the  centre  of  hanging 
baskets,  vases,  etc. ,  or  for  bedding  out,  being  also  more  readily  propagated  then  Candida. 

CENTRADENIA  (Greenhouse  Perennial,  35,  55,  gf  ). 

Beautiful,  neat  plants  adapted  only  to  window  and  conservatory  culture  in  pots,  or  for  plant- 
ing in  Ferneries,  baskets,  etc.  They  delight  in  light  soil,  considerably  enriched  with  leaf  mould 
and  manure.  Are  propagated  from  cuttings. 

C.  Grandiftora,  elegant  narrow,  green  and  crimson  colored  foliage,  of  changeable  hue.  C. 
Rosa,  small  fine  leaves,  of  pretty  form  and  color.  The  plant  is  profusely  covered  with  small 
rose-colored  flowers  during  a  great  portion  of  the  year. 

CENTURY  PLANT.     See  Agave. 

CEREUS  GRANDIFLORUS — NIGHT-BLOOMING  CEREUS  (Greenhouse Perennial,  15,50,95°) 
The  flowers  of  this  celebrated  kind  of  Cactus,  which  open  only  at  night  time,  are  very  large, 
beautiful  and  sweet-scented.  They  begin  to  open  about  sundown,  and  are  fully  expanded  by 
eleven  o'clock.  The  petals  are  white ;  the  coralla,  or  rather  calyx,  is  from  seven  to  ten  inches 
in  diameter,  the  outside  of  which  is  a  brown  and  the  inside  a  fine  straw  yellow  color.  Its  scent 
perfumes  the  air  to  considerable  distance.  The  plant  is  of  thrifty  habit,  and  is  as  easily  grown 
to  flower  in  the  house  or  conservatory  as  any  Cactus,  requiring  treatment  similar  to  that 
described  for  this  family. 


46 


THE  HOME  FLORIST. 


CHOROZEMA  ELEGANS  (Greenhouse  Perennial,  j^  4$,  80°). 

A  small  slirubby  plant  for  pot  culture,  with  dark  green  Holly-leaf  shaped  foliage,  that  will 
thrive  and  flower  freely  in  any  cool  place  in  winter.  The  flowers  are  yellow  and  crimson,  of 
pea  shape,  and  attractive ;  one  of  the  easiest  plants  to  cultivate. 


Fig.  39.      Virgin  Queen  Chrysanthemum. 

CHRYSANTHEMUM  (Hardy  Perennial). 

The  Chinese  Chrysanthemums  are  exceedingly  handsome  late  flowering  plants,  and  although 
hardy  in  our  latitude,  the  blossom  buds  are  liable  to  be  injured  by  hard  fall  frosts,  unless 
protected  somewhat.  The  best  way  to  manage  them  is  either  to  grow  in  pots  during  the 
summer,  or  take  them  up  in  September,  and  in  either  case  remove  to  the  house,  where  their 
many  gorgeous  flowers  of  various  colors  and  tints  will  expand  in  succession  for  a  long  time.  If 
grown  in  pots  these  should  be  plunged  to  the  rim  in  the  border ;  it  is  necessary  to  turn  the  pots 
occasionally  to  prevent  the  roots  from  striking  through  the  bottom  and  growing  in  the  garden  soil. 
As  they  start  into  bud  treat  them  to  occasional  waterings  of  liquid  manure.  After  flowering  the 
plants  should  be  cut  down  and  put  in  a  cool  part  of  the  conservatory,  in  a  cold-pit  or  in  a  light 
cellar,  until  spring.  They  may  be  increased  in  number  either  from  cuttings  of  young  shoots  or 
by  division  of  the  roots  in  spring.  The  Chrysanthemums  are  especially  recommend  able  to  inex- 
perienced cultivators,  as  no  class  of  plants  are  easier  to  manage,  and  besides  they  produce  their 
flowers  late  in  autumn  at  a  time  when  all  kinds  of  flowers  are  scarce. 

LARGE  FLOWERING  CHRYSANTHEMUMS. — Aurora,  orange.  Cinderella,  pure  white,  fine. 
Condrillion  various  shades  of  orange  and  yellow.  Dr.  Brooks,  rich  golden  yellow.  Empress 
of  India,  clear  white,  large.  Fimbriata,  pure  white,  fimbriated,  fine.  Clone  Mundi,  brilliant 
yellow.  Leonidas,  light  crimson  and  orange.  Ne  Plus  Ultra,  rose ;  few  flowers,  but  immense 


THE  HOME  FLORIST.  47 


size.  Profusion,  deep  blush.  Queen  of  Lilac,  light  lilac.  Rosy  Queen,  early,  delicate  rose,  fine. 
Virgin  Queen,  snow  white,  very  desirable  (see  Fig.  39).  Webb's  Queen,  lilac.  White  Tre- 
venna,  pure  white,  medium  size. 

POMPONE,  OR  SMALL  FLOWERING  CHRYSANTHEMUMS. — Alex.  Peel,  cinnamon.  Apollo, 
brilliant  crimson.  Boule  Blanche,  globe  shape,  white.  Bould  de  Neige,  white,  yellow  center. 
Condrillion,  yellow,  profuse.  Crouchon,  ruby  red,  excellent.  Fairy  Nymph,  pure  white.  lona, 
rosy  lilac.  Jonas,  crimson  and  yellow.  La  Brazier,  deep  bronze.  Lilac  Gem,  very  dwarf,  fine 
habit.  Mignonette,  rosy  pink.  Prince  Albert  of  Prussia,  white,  fimbriated.  Roi  des  Lilliputs, 
purple,  white  tipped.  Rosabelle,  deep  rosy  crimson. 

JAPANESE  CHRYSANTHEMUMS. — These  are  noted  for  their  varied  forms  and  markings, 
together  with  the  enormous  size  which  some  of  the  varieties  assume.  Grandifiora  Japonica, 
straw  color,  fringed.  Madam  Chapon,  orange  and  yellow  plated  petals.  Richesse,  crimson. 

CIGAR  PLANT.     See  Cuphea  Platycentra. 
CINERARIA  (Greenhouse  Perennial,  33,  45,  jf). 

In  late  winter  and  early  spring,  few  plants  in  our  conservatories  present  a  more  attractive 
appearance  than  do  the  Cinerarias  when  at  their  height  of  beauty,  bearing  an  immense  crop  of 
bright,  cheerful  flowers,  in  clusters,  boldly  above  the  large,  somewhat  coarse  looking,  leaves. 
They  are  a  capital  class  of  plants  for  winter  culture  in  a  cool  greenhouse,  making  a  rapid 
growth ;  usually  reared  from  seeds  sown  at  any  time  from  July  to  September.  The  culture 
suited  to  the  Herbaceous  Calceolarias  (which  see)  will  answer  fully  for  the  Cineraria,  and  any 
person  may  expect  to  be  successful  with  their  culture  in  the  conservatory,  also  in  the  window, 
if  a  moist  atmosphere  can  be  sustained  and  they  are  kept  near  the  light. 

CISSUS  DISCOLOR  (Greenhouse  Perennial,  45,  65,  90°). 

A  climber,  with  leaves  beautifully  shaded  with  dark  green,  purple  and  white,  the  upper 
surface  of  the  leaf  having  a  rich,  velvet-like  appearance.  The  plant  requires  a  continual  high 
temperature  to  develop  the  beautiful  coloring  of  leaves,  and  there  will  be  little  use  of  attempting 
its  culture  unless  this  can  be  provided,  and  with  this  and  other  favorable  conditions  no  plant  in 
cultivation  can  exceed  the  rare  beauty  of  its  foliage. 

CLARKIA  (Hardy  Annual). 

Plants  of  considerable  beauty  for  the  garden  that  are  easily  reared  from  seed,  which  may 
be  sown  directly  where  they  are  to  flower,  either  early  in  the  spring  or  in  August  and  September, 
by  protecting  the  young  seedlings,  with  a  slight  covering  of  straw  or  litter,  which  must  be  removed 
early  the  following  spring.  The  flowers  are  attractive  in  form  and  color,  with  double  and  single 
varieties.  They  attain  the  greatest  perfection  in  spring  and  autumn,  as  the  hot  sun  of  summer 
interferes  somewhat  with  their  development. 

COBCEA  SCANDENS  (Greenhouse  Perennial,  JS,  55>  & '). 

An  excellent  climbing  plant,  grown  from  seed  or  increased  by  layering,  that  is,  perhaps, 
more  generally  useful  than  any  other,  being  suitable  for  the  conservatory,  the  window  or  the 
open  air,  but  it  requires  careful  management.  The  plants  produce  large,  bell-shaped  flowers 
freely  in  the  open  ground,  but  are  rather  shy  in  this  respect  when  cultivated  in  pots,  although 
their  growth  is  satisfactory,  and  the  foliage  endures  the  confined  heat  of  the  dwelling  admirably. 
When  planted  in  a  border,  either  in  the  conservatory  or  in  a  sheltered  place  out  doors,  the 
growth  made  by  well  established  plants  is  enormous,  having  been  known  to  reach  a  length 
of  two  hundred  feet  in  one  season.  The  seed  require  care  in  starting,  which  must  be  done  in 
heat.  Until  the  young  plants  appear,  water  very  lightly — only  enough  to  keep  the  soil  from 
getting  entirely  dry.  The  Coboea  delights  in  a  warm,  sandy  soil. 

COCCOLOBA  PLATYCLADA  (Greenhouse  Perennial,  33,  50,  83°). 

A  singular  looking  pot  or  bedding  plant  of  fern-like,  angular  growth.  It  is  readily  grown, 
under  most  any  circumstances,  being  also  suitable  for  cultivating  in  ferneries,  and  is  not  out  of 
place  in  a  hanging  basket.  On  account  of  its  grotesque  appearance,  it  will  be  admired  where 
many  flowering  plants  would  scarcely  attract  attention.  Propagates  from  cuttings. 

COCKSCOMB.     See  Celosia. 
COLEUS  (Greenhouse  Perennial,  40,  60,  90°). 

This  family  possesses  'the  most  remarkable,  varied  and  striking  colors  in  their  foliage 
of  any  plants  in  cultivation  which  are  susceptible  of  being  grown  and  propagated  with  equal 
ease.  There  is  one  condition,  however,  that  is  absolutely  essential  to  its  growth  or  even 
its  existence,  which  is  a  high  temperature,  and  where  this  is  present,  it  will  grow  with  the 
greatest  freedom,  either  in  the  open  air,  the  window  or  conservatory,  and  form  strong  plants  of 
remarkable  beauty  in  a  very  short  space  of  time.  The  cultivator,  meditating  over  a  bed  of  beau- 
tiful Coleus  in  midsummer,  each  one  of  which  has  sprung  up  to  form  a  large  plant,  from  the 
small-sized  one  set  out,  perhaps,  the  first  of  June,  can  hardly  realize  that  all  this  beauty  is 
destined  to  fall  under  the  first  stroke  of  frost,  be  it  ever  so  slight,  to  which  it  may  be  exposed 
later  in  the  season.  It  is  on  account  of  this  rapid  growth,  and  withal  their  great  beauty,  that 


THE  HOME  FLORIST. 


such  vigorous  varieties  as  Verschaffeltii,  Setting  Sun,  Mutabilis  and  others,  rank  among  the 
very  best  of  plants  for  planting  in  masses  or  ribbon  lines,  even  though  tender  they  are.  The 
majority  of  our  dwellings  that  are  heated  by  anthracite  coal  stoves  or  ranges,  and  in  which  fire 
heat  is  maintained  day  and  night,  will  suit  the  Coleus  if  grown  in  pots  or  baskets  and  placed 
in  the  light.  A  handsome  size  of  plants  may  be  reared  for  winter  decoration  by  striking  cuttings 
in  July  or  August  for  the  purpose.  Plant  them  into  light,  rich  soil  and  water  moderately  during 
winter,  also  pay  attention  to  heading  back  strong  growing  shoots,  to  prevent  a  growth  of 
' '  drawn  "  appearance. 

C.  Brunette,  green  leaves,  spotted  and  blotched  with  various  shades  of  maroon.  C.  Canari, 
a  peculiar  yellowish  green  variety,  edged,  and  sometimes  spotted,  with  maroon.  C.  Chameleon, 
a  comparatively  new  and  desirable  variety,  in  which  the  colors  of  pure  rose,  green  and  purple 
are  distinctly  presented.  C.  Edith,  rich  dark  red,  edged  with  yellowish  green.  C.  Enchantress, 
brilliant  crimson  and  shades,  edged  with  pale  green.  C.  Hamlet,  purplish  maroon.  C.  Hero, 
chocolate  maroon.  C.  Mutabilis,  maroon  and  bronze,  deeply  edged  with  yellowish  green.  C. 
Nonsuch,  light  bronzy  crimson,  edged  with  green.  C.  Princess  of  Prussia,  deep,  velvety-crimson, 
the  brightest  variety  in  cultivation.  C.  Princess  of  Wales,  purplish  red,  edged  green.  C.  Rain- 
bow, a  blending  of  various  colors,  such  as  maroon,  crimson,  bronzy  green,  etc.,  in  stripes  and 
blotches.  C.  Refulgent,  dark  maroon ;  a  strong  grower.  C.  Rival,  dark  claret  crimson,  light 
green  edge.  C.  Setting  Sun,  bronze  crimson  center,  bright  golden  margin.  C.  Shah,  recently 
introduced,  the  leaves,  which  are  rich  cinnamon,  are  marked  the  entire  width  and  one-third  or 
one-half  their  depth  with  golden  yellow,  although  it  is  inclined  to  vary  occasionally  from  this 
rule.  C.  Verschaffeltii,  rich  velvety  crimson,  of  superior  quality,  either  for  bedding  or  pot 
culture. 

COLUMBINE.     See  Aquilegia. 
CONVOLVULUS  (Half -Hardy  Annual). 

CONVOLVULUS  MAJOR  (Morning  Glory). — A  climbing  plant  that  is  perhaps  as  well  known 

as  any  plant  in  cultivation,  being  excellent  for 
covering  trellises,  rustic  work,  cords  for  shading 
the  veranda,  etc.  There  are  many  varieties  of 
different  colors,  all  of  which  are  more  or  less 
attractive.  The  seed  may  be  sown  in  the  open 
ground  quite  early  in  the  spring.  As  soon  as 
the  young  plants  stretch  forth  for  support  on 
which  to  spin,  it  should  be  provided,  as  they 
do  not  hold  on  so  readily  after  being  older,  be- 
sides they  become  entangled  with  each  other. 

CONVOLVULUS  MINOR  (Dwarf  Convolvulus). 
— Free  flowering  annuals  of  distinct  and  rich 
colors,  that  are  desirable  for  massing  or  for  in- 
dividual effect.  The  seeds  germinate  readily, 
and  may  be  sown  where  they  are  to  flower. 
Thin  out  the  plants  to  stand  not  nearer  than 
fifteen  inches  apart  in  rich  soil. 

CROWN  IMPERIAL  (Hardy  Bulb). 

An  old  fashioned,  early  spring  flowering  bulb, 
bearing  on  a  stem  several  feet  high,  drooping 
bell-shaped  flowers,  which  in  their  arrangement 
around  the  stalk  may  be  fancied  to  resemble  a 
crown.  There  are  both  double  and  single  va- 
rieties, the  colors  of  which  are  principally  yel- 
low and  red.  They  delight  in  a  deep  rich  bed, 
and  should  not  have  their  bulbs  lifted  for  re- 
Fig.  40.  Cuphea  Platycentra— Cigar  Plant.  setting  oftener  than  every  third  year. 

CUPHEA  PLATYCENTRA— CIGAR  PLANT  (Greenhouse  Perennial,  32,  45,  80°). 
This  is  a  pretty,  shrub-like  plant  adapted  to  a  variety  of  purposes.  The  flowers,  which  are 
tubular  in  form  (see  Fig.  40),  are  uniformly  of  a  bright  scarlet  color,  tipped  at  their  opening 
with  pure  white  and  jet  black  edges.  It  is  almost  constantly  in  bloom  under  any  fair  circum- 
stances, and  will  thrive  beautifully  as  a  hanging  basket  or  vase  plant,  or  if  planted  out  in  the 
border  and  beds,  where  it  will  during  the  season  assume  a  dense  globular  form,  and  constantly 
produce  hundreds  of  flowers.  It  is  also  valuable  as  a  pot  plant  for  the  window,  where  its  con- 
stantly appearing  flowers  of  pleasing  appearance  will  be  certain  to  make  it  a  favorite.  The 
Cuphea  is  readily  propagated  from  cuttings  of  the  young  growth. 

CRASSULA   COCCINEA  (Greenhouse  Perennial,  34,  43,  85°). 

A  plant  suitable  for  the  window  or  conservatory,  which  produces  scarlet  wax-like  flowers  of 
considerable  beauty  for  a  long  time ;  should  be  kept  rather  dry  during  winter. 


THE  HOME  FLORIST.  49 

CROCUS  (Hardy  Bulb). 

The  Crocuses  are  an  interesting  class  of  bulbous  plants,  that  produce  their  flowers  in  the 
open  air  through  the  month  of  April  and  up  to  the  flowering  of  Hyacinths.  Being  very  early, 
they  are  entitled  to  a  place  in  every  garden.  The  flowers  are  principally  white,  blue,  yellow 
and  striped,  and  present  an  exceedingly  gay  appearance,  as  they  appear  without  a  companion 
scarcely  at  their  early  season  of  flowering.  The  bulbs  require  to  be  planted  in  the  fall,  and 
should  be  set  about  three  inches  apart  and  not  more  than  two  inches  deep.  Their  culture,  in 
common  with  other  hardy  bulbs,  is  generally  treated  on  on  page  14.  The  Crocus  will  also 
flower  well  in  the  house.  Directions  for  cultivation  in  glasses,  pots,  etc.,  is  given  on  page  21. 

CYCLAMEN   PERSICUM   (Greenhouse  Bulb,  33,  55,  ?f). 

Beautiful  plants  for  the  conservatory,  with  delicately  marked  foliage,  which  produce  from 
autumn  until  spring  a  profusion  of  small  bell-shaped  flowers  of  the  most  pleasing  appearance, 
on  long  stems.  The  soil  in  which  they  are  potted  should  be  very  rich.  After  they  have 
done  flowering,  they  may  be  kept  plunged  in  the  open  ground  during  summer  and  receive  a  shift 
into  larger  pots  for  flowering,  in  August  or  September,  The  plants  are  reared  from  seed,  which 
may  be  sown  at  any  time  from  early  spring  until  mid-summer,  for  flowering  the  next  year. 

CYPRESS   VINE.     See  Ipomoea. 
CYTISUS  RACEMOSUS  (Greenhouse  Perennial,  33,  30,  80°). 

Cytisus  Racemosus  is  a  winter  flowering  pot  plant,  suitable  for  the  window  or  conservatory, 
assuming  an  irregular  bushy  form,  which  is  very  attractive.  The  flowers  are  small,  very  sweet, 
and  of  a  pleasing,  deep  golden  yellow  color,  borne  on  racemes  that,  for  a  long  time,  give  the 
plant  a  beautiful  appearance.  It  is  difficult  to  propagate. 

DAFFODIL.     See  Narcissus. 

DAHLIA  (Tender  Tuber). 

Well  known  tuberous  plants,  only  suitable  for  open-air  culture,  which  produce  flowers  of  the 
most  perfect  and  beautiful  form,  and  of  unexceptionally  brilliant  and  good  colors,  during  the 
summer  and  autumn  months.  Luxuriate  in  a  moist  soil.  In  dry  weather  the  flowers  will  be 
finer,  and  the  plants  do  better,  by  receiving  a  thorough  watering  occasionally  of  an  evening. 
Nothing  gives  Dahlias  a  better  appearance  than  to  keep  them  neatly  tied  to  strong  stakes  about 
four  feet  long,  one  driven  in  the  ground  by  each  plant.  All  flowers  should  be  removed  as  soon 
as  they  begin  to  decay,  and  imperfect  buds  be  cut  off.  The  tubers  are  to  be  lifted  after  frosts 
have  killed  the  stalk,  usually  the  forepart  of  October  in  our  latitude.  They  should  then  be 
labeled,  and  after  having  been  allowed  to  dry,  either  in  the  sun  or  in  an  open  shed,  packed  in 
sand  and  kept  in  a  dry,  warm  cellar  during  winter  or  under  the  benches  in  the  conservatory; 
after  the  middle  of  May  they  may  be  divided  in  pieces,  each  with  a  crown,  and  planted  in  the 
flower  beds  again.  Their  flowering  season  is  considerably  advanced  by  starting  and  keeping 
them  growing  in  the  hot-bed,  up  to  near  the  first  of  June ;  for  this  purpose  start  in  April. 


Amazement,  dark  crimson. 

Belle  de  Baum,  deep  pink. 

Bob  Ridley,  dark  scarlet. 

Black  Dwarf,  dark  maroon. 

Col.  Sherman,  light  scarlet. 

Criterion,  delicate  rose  color. 

Celestial,  bluish  lilac. 

Dr.  Stein,  dark  maroon  with  light  blotches. 

Deutschland1  s  Ehrc,  red,  tipped  with  pale  rose. 

Eugenie,  white,  tipped  with  scarlet. 

Fulgens  Picta,  scarlet,  tipped  white. 

Glory  of  Summer,  rich  glowing  salmon. 

Golden  Fleece,  yellow,  tipped  pink. 

Goldjinder,  golden  yellow. 

Grand  Duke,  large  lilac. 

Grimaldi,  large  and  attractive. 

Guiding  Star,  pure  white,  fimbriated. 

Little  Kate,  small  maroon. 

Little  J\Iodel,  rosy  crimson,  light  center. 

Little  Virginie,  bright  rosy  purple. 


Mandarin,  clear  yellow,  pale  rose  stripe. 

Magician,  crimson  and  white. 

Mein  Strejling,  salmon,  striped  crimson. 

Miss  Amarang,  dwarf  crimson. 

Mrs.  Seacole,  an  excellent  variety. 

Norah  Crinea,  orange,  tipped  white. 

Paradise  Williams,  clear  claret. 

Pearl,  pure  white. 

Penelope,  blush,  purple  tint. 

Princess  Calibri,  deep  scarlet. 

Princess  Alice,  pale  rose,  with  light  center. 

Princess  of  Prussia,  blush  and  purple. 

Queen  of  Sports,  blush,  spotted  and  streaked 

with  purple. 

Salvator  Rosa,  clear  pink,  fine  form. 
Selmer,  yellow,  purple  tip. 
Silver  Fish. 

Tom  Green,  maroon,  tipped  while. 
Vedette,  soft  purple. 
Venus,  blush  white. 


DAISY — BELLIS  PERENNIS  (Hardy  Herbaceotts  Perennial). 

A  pretty  little  plant  for  the  garden,  which  bears  a  profusion  of  perfectly  double  flowers, 
of  red,  white,  and  red  and  white  variegated  colors,  throughout  all  but  the  hottest  portion  of 
the  season.  They  propagate  by  division  and  also  from  the  seed,  but  are  not  very  satisfactory  if 
thus  reared,  as  a  large  proportion  always  will  come  single  or  only  semi-double  from  the  best  of 
seed.  Set  the  plants  about  six  inches  apart,  and  protect  slightly  in  winter.  A  few  may  be 
potted  in  the  fall  to  flower  in  a  cool  place  in  the  window  or  conservatory  during  winter. 

4 


THE  HOME  FLORIST. 


DELPHINIUM — LARKSPUR  (Hardy  Annuals  and  Perennials). 

ANNUAL  DELPHINIUMS. — A  class  of  annuals  possessing  bright  colors  and  free  flowering 
qualities  that  are  worthy  of  culture  in  every  considerable  garden  collection.  The  dwarf  varieties 
are  regarded  as  the  most  beautiful.  They  attain  a  height  of  one  foot,  throwing  up  a  flower 
shoot  that  somewhat  resembles  a  Hyacinth.  These  should  stand  at  a  distance  of  six  inches  from 
each  other,  and  the  tall  varieties  a  foot  and  a  half  apart.  Sow  where  they  are  to  bloom. 

DELPHINIUM  FORMOSUM  is  one  of  the  most  desirable  hardy  perennial  plants  in  cultivation. 
It  blooms  more  or  less  freely  from  July  until  November,  giving  a  supply  of  exceedingly  attrac- 
tive flowers.  The  flowers  are  large,  lively  blue,  with  the  center  white,  shaded  with  reddish 
purple.  When  the  plants  become  large  they  should  be  divided  and  reset;  they  can  also  be 
grown  true  from  seed,  which  should  be  sown  in  spring,  and  will  flower  the  next  summer. 


Fig.  41.     Diadem  Pink  (Dianthus  Heddewigii  Diadematus  fl.  pi.). 

DEUTZIA  (Hardy  Shrub). 

Although  a  family  of  hardy  shrubs,  and  one  of  the  best  for  permanent  planting,  the 
varieties  Deutzia  Gracilis,  pure  white,  and  Deutzia  Gracilis  fl.  pi.,  double,  pure  white,  serve 
admirably  for  pot  culture  and  forcing  into  flower  in  the  window  or  conservatory.  The  plants 
should  be  grown  in  the  open  ground,  and  after  the  leaves  have  fallen  in  autumn,  be  brought  into 
the  cold-pit  or  cellar,  until  New  Year's,  after  which  time  they  may  be  taken  to  the  window  or 
conservatory  for  flowering.  With  bearing  a  profusion  of  pretty  flowers  in  due  time,  nothing  can 
be  handsomer. 

DIANTHUS  (Hardy  Perennial). 

This  is  an  extensive  genus  of  desirable  flowering  plants,  which  embrace  numerous  important 
kinds,  the  Carnation,  Garden  Pink,  Sweet  William,  etc.,  being  of  the  number.  I  shall  here 
treat  of  those  that  are  generally  reared  from  seed,  the  others  will  be  found  under  their  respective 
heads.  The  species  known  as  D.  Chinensis,  embracing  the  old  Chinese  Pink,  very  much 
improved  of  late  years,  and  the  new  and  superb  varieties  from  Japan,  known  as  D.  Heddewigii 
and  lacinatus,  with  the  new  varieties  springing  from  them  through  the  means  of  hybridization 
(see  illustration  of  Diadem  Pink,  Fig.  41),  are  among  the  most  brilliant  and  useful  of  garden 
flowers.  They  are  easily  reared  from  seed  in  any  good  soil,  and  flower  freely  during  the  season, 
even  up  to  winter,  and  for  several  years,  provided  they  are  in  suitable  condition  for  surviving  the 


THE  HOME  FLORIST, 


winter.  It  is  better  to  secure  strong,  stocky  plants  by  pruning,  even  at  the  expense  of  some 
bloom,  by  fall,  as  they  will  not  only  winter  better  but  will  produce  larger  and  finer  flowers  the 
second  season.  The  seed  may  be  sown  in  heat  and  the  young  plants  transplanted,  if  large  plants 
are  desired  the  first  year,  or  by  sowing  in  the  garden  at  any  time  from  late  spring  until  Septem- 
ber, excellent  plants  may  be  had  for  flowering  the  following  year.  The  plants  should  be  set  at 
a  distance  of  from  six  to  twelve  inches  apart. 


Fig.  42.      Tricolor  Geranium,  Mrs.  Pollock.     See  page  37. 

DIANTHUS  BARBATUS  (Sweet  William),  useful  garden  perennials,  with  double  and  single  vari- 
eties of  various  colors.     They  have  long  been  in  cultivation,  but  great  improvements  have  been 
made  in  the  quality  of  the  flowers,  as  well  as  in  the  increase  of  desirable  varieties.     Easily  raised 
from  seeds,  or  fine  varieties  may  be  perpetuated  by  dividing  the  roots  after  they  have  flowered. 
DICENTRA  SPECTABILIS— LOVE  LIES  BLEEDING  (Hardy  Herbaceous  Perennial). 

One  of  our  most  ornamental,  spring-flowering  hardy  herbaceous  plants,  and  also  excellent 
for  forcing  in  the  window  or  conservatory.  The  flowers  appear  in  racemes,  on  long  drooping 
stems,  are  of  a  bright  rose  pink,  with  pearly  white  corolla,  and  as  they  are  produced  by 
hundreds  on  large  plants  in  the  open  air,  rendering  the  plant  for  the  time  one  of  the  most  attractive 
objects  the  garden  will  contain  during  the  season.  For  winter  flowering  they  should  be  taken 
up  in  October,  potted,  and  placed  in  a  cold-pit  or  some  place  where  they  may  be  got  at  in 
winter.  Any  time  after  cold  weather  sets  in  (they  should  have  a  freeze)  they  may  be  brought 
indoors  and  will  flower  in  about  two  months. 


THE  HOME  FLORIST. 


DIGITALIS— Fox  GLOVE  (Hardy  Biennial). 

A  well  known  hardy  border  plant,  flowering  in  June  and  July,  possessing  considerable 
beauty.  The  flowers  in  the  different  varieties  are  purple,  white  and  spotted ;  have  a  thimble- 
like  shape,  and  are  produced  in  dense  spikes.  Are  propagated  by  sowing  the  seed  in  the  spring 
or  up  to  the  middle  of  August,  and  flower  the  second  year. 

DRACENA  (Greenhouse  Perennial,  jj,  60,  95° ). 

Tropical  plants  of  rare  beauty,  only  suited  to  pot  or  Fernery  culture  in  the  window  or  con- 
servatory, but  may  be  introduced  in  summer  decoration,  in  pots,  vases  and  hanging  baskets 
with  grand  effect.  The  beauty  of  the  plant  consists  in  the  leaves,  which  range  in  color  from 
various  shades  of  green  to  bright  crimson  and  pink,  striped  with  dark  green  in  the  different 
varieties,  and  are  long,  narrow  and  straight,  somewhat  resembling  those  of  the  Indian  Corn 
plant,  except  that  they  are  shorter.  Do  best  in  soil  consisting  of  one-third  part  leaf  mould, 
also  containing  some  sand,  and  kept  pretty  moist. 

ECHEVERIA  (Greenhouse  Perennial,  35,  50,  90° ). 

A  remarkable  class  of  plants,  with  thick  succulent  leaves  of  grotesque  appearance,  suitable 
for  pot  culture  in  the  window  or  conservatory,  and  also  for  bedding.  They  are  prized  chiefly 
for  their  odd,  yet,  in  some  varieties,  delicate  appearance,  as  few  would  consider  them  possessed 
of  any  greater  beauty  than  that  found  in  plants  of  the  Cactus  family.  They  are  of  the  easiest 
culture,  and  while  delighting  in  moisture  generally,  should  be  kept  quite  dry  during  winter. 

ERYSIMUM   PEROFFSKIANUM  (Hardy  Annual). 

A  free  flowering  little  annual  producing  flowers  of  beautiful  orange  shade,  which  are  esteemed 
for  their  sweetness  and  suitability  for  cutting.  Sow  the  seed  where  it  is  to  flower. 

ESCHOLTZIA  CALIFORNICA— CALIFORNIAN  POPPY  (Hardy  Annual). 
The  Escholtzia  is  a  desirable  garden  annual  easily  grown  from  seed,  and  flowers  almost  con- 
tinually from  June  until  cold  weather.  The  flowers  are  of  a  splendid  rich,  deep  yellow  color  in 
E.  California,  which  cultivators  generally  consider  the  best,  and  possess  a  dazzling  brilliancy 
in  the  sunshine.  Their  dense  growth  should  be  supported  by  sticks,  else  a  portion  of  the  plant 
will  lie  close  to  the  ground,  detrimental  to  their  perfect  flowering.  Sow  where  they  are  to 
flower  and  thin  out  to  one  foot. 

EUONYMUS  (Greenhouse  Perennial,  30,  43,  90°). 

Very  beautiful  plants  of  shrubby  nature,  valuable  for  pot  culture,  Ferneries,  winter  hanging 
baskets,  and  in  fact  for  any  in-door  purpose,  as  they  are  of  neat,  vigorous  habit,  with  lovely 
variegated  leaves  of  glossy  Ivy-like  texture,  and  are  scarcely  equaled  for  growing  in  the  shade. 

The  varieties  are  Aurea  variegata  and  Radicans  variegata,  which  are  nearly  alike,  except  in 
their  colors.  The  leaves  of  the  former  are  a  rich  golden  yellow  color  on  green ;  and  in  Radicans 
variegata,  a  bright  pea  green,  deeply  margined  with  creamy  white,  both  having  a  striking  and 
pretty  appearance,  not  found  in  any  similar  plant. 

EUPATORIUM  (Greenhouse  Perennial,  33,  45,  75°). 

This  is  a  family  of  plants  extensively  grown  by  florists  for  the  abundant  crop  of  pure 
white  flowers  they  produce  only  in  winter.  The  flowers  are  borne  in  dense  clusters  on 
good  stems.  The  plant  is  vigorous,  of  upright  habit,  and  requires  considerable  pot  room ;  of 
the  easiest  culture  under  any  circumstances.  As  it  propagates  readily,  it  is  best  to  start  young 
plants  early  each  spring  for  flowers  the  following  winter ;  they  should  be  grown  in  pots  out  of 
doors  in  a  place  protected  from  wind,  during  summer.  Cut  down  the  plants  after  flowering, 
which  will  induce  a  new  growth  to  propagate  from. 

There  are  three  varieties  generally  cultivated,  the  flowers  of  which  are  white  and  nearly 
alike  in  appearance.  E.  Arboreum  is  the  earliest  to  flower,  E.  Salicifolius  (very  pure  white) 
next,  and  E.  Elegans  latest,  the  three  varieties  affording  a  succession  of  bloom  during  the 
winter. 

EVERLASTING   FLOWERS.       See   Acroclinium,    Amobium    Helichrysum,    Helipterum, 
Gomphrena,  Rhodanthe,  and  Xeranthemum. 

FABIANA  IMBRICATA  (Greenhouse  Perennial,  34,  50,  90°). 

One  of  the  prettiest  little  shrub-like  pot  plants  that  can  be  cultivated,  being  of  dense  pyra- 
midal habit,  fine  foliage  and  profusely  covered  with  white  flowers  in  spring;  excellent  for 
baskets  in  summer  or  winter.  Any  ordinary  treatment  and  good  soil  will  suit  this  plant. 

FARFUGIUM  GRANDE  (Greenhouse  Perennial,  33,  50,  90°). 

A  singular  looking  plant  of  easy  culture  in  the  window  or  conservatory,  the  leaves  of  which 
are  its  attractive  feature.  These  are  large,  round,  borne  on  long  stems,  are  smooth,  of  a  deep 
green  color,  and  blotched  with  distinct  golden  yellow  spots,  ranging  from  the  size  of  a  pin's 
head  to  nearly  an  inch  across  and  distributed  with  a  striking  irregularity  over  the  surface.  They 
are  increased  by  new  shoots  starting  from  the  root,  which  should  be  potted.  Suitable  for  plant- 
ing in  baskets, -vases,  etc. 


THE  HOME  FLORIST.  -~ 


FERN  (Greenhouse  Perennial,  35,  45  or  30,  80°). 

There  are  many  varieties  of  Ferns  or  Brakes  found  growing  in  wood  and  swamp  lands,  in  all 
parts  of  our  country.  These  are  principally  of  kinds  whose  roots  continue  to  live  from  year  to 
year — the  tops  dying  annually.  There  are  numerous  varieties  grown  in  greenhouses,  differing  from 
these  inasmuch  as  the  foliage  is  perennial  or  evergreen,  thus  being  continually  attractive,  summer 
and  winter.  This  class  are  among  the  most  attractive  plants  which  can  be  grown  under  glass  or 
in  the  window,  and  especially  in  the  latter,  with  the  use  of  a  Fernery  or  plant  case.  On  page 
19  this  means  of  growing  plants  is  treated  upon,  and  I  will  repeat  that  it  exactly  suits  the  wants  of 
Ferns  and  many  other  plants  of  similar  requirements.  Ferns  are  propagated  from  the  spores 
which  form  on  the  leaves,  these  being  sown  in  earth  similar  to  seeds  of  seed  bearing  plants, 
a  somewhat  difficult  and  uncertain  means  of  propagation,  with  which  few  amateurs  would  be 
successful,  for  want  of  suitable  appliances.  The  plants  should  be  grown  in  soil  largely  com- 
posed of  leaf  mould  from  the  woods. 

FEVERFEW— PYRETHRUM  (Greenhouse  Perennial,  33,  45,  83°). 

Very  useful  bedding  plants  in  several  varieties,  all  of  which  are  nearly  hardy,  of  the  easiest 
possible  culture  and  readily  propagated  from  cuttings.  The  double  white  Feverfew  (Pyrethrum 
Parthenum)  produces  an  immense  crop  of  perfectly  double,  pure  white,  daisy-like  flowers,  an 
inch  and  upwards  in  size,  in  clusters,  on  stems  eighteen  inches  high,  the  fore  part  of  summer, 
and  then  less  freely  at  intervals,  until  late  in  the  season,  on  which  account  it  has  become  an 
important  plant  in  every  florist's  greenhouse,  and  is  deserving  of  general  cultivation  at  the  hands 
of  amateurs,  especially  as  there  need  be  no  failure  with  managing  it  to  produce  an  abundance 
of  bloom. 

Prince  Alfred  is  a  variety  similar  to  the  preceding  but  of  dwarfer  habit.  Golden  Feather 
Feverfew  possesses  no  merit  as  a  flowering  plant,  but  is  highly  esteemed  for  its  attractive,  delicate 
cut  foliage  of  greenish  golden  color,  and  the  dense  symmetrical  growth  it  assumes.  It  is  a 
beautiful  plant  for  massing  or  planting  in  ribbon  lines  and,  like  the  two  varieties  described 
above,  is  very  suitable  as  a  pot  plant  or  for  planting  in  vases  and  large  hanging  baskets.  The 
flower  shoots  should  be  pinched  back  as  they  appear.  All  the  Feverfews  may  be  taken  from 
the  ground  in  fall  and  wintered  in  a  cold-pit.  To  rear  an  abundance  of  stock  for  bedding,  take 
plants  thus  secured,  into  heat  in  February  and  then  make  cuttings  of  the  young  shoots. 

FORGET-ME-NOT.     See  Myosotis. 
FOUR  O'CLOCK.     See  Mirabilis  Jalapa. 

FOX   GLOVE.     See  Digitalis. 
FUCHSIA — LADY'S  EAR  DROP  (Greenhouse  Perennial,  35,  50,  85°).     See  Fig.  43. 

The  Fuchsia  is  another  of  those  superb  families  of  plants,  the  varieties  of  which,  to  an 
extent,  are  indispensable  in  every  collection  of  choice  plants.  It  is  a  well  known  genus,  and 
has  for  years  attracted  the  attention  of  cultivators  by  its  elegant  appearance  and  lovely  flowers. 
The  Lady's  Ear  Drop,  as  it  is  commonly  called,  is  associated  with  our  earliest  recollection  of 
window  plants,  cultivated  many  years  ago,  but  since  that  time,  like  with  many  other  things,  the 
florist's  art  of  hybridizing  has  caused  wonderful  changes  and  improvements  in  the  flowers,  and 
has  rendered  the  varieties  of  to-day  immensely  superior  to  those  known  a  score  of  years  ago. 
The  Fuchsia  is  admirably  adapted  for  pot  culture  on  the  window-shelf  or  in  the  conservatory — 
some  varieties  flowering  beautifully  in  the  winter.  They  delight  not  so  much  in  a  high  tempera- 
ture as  in  a  light  place  in  which  they  can  frequently  be  treated  to  fresh  air.  Their  nature 
requires  a  season  of  rest  annually,  which  should  be  given  the  ordinary  varieties  from  the  latter 
part  of  summer  until  January,  and  the  winter  blooming  kinds  for  several  months  in  summer. 
During  this  time  water  should  be  withheld  from  the  plants  to  an  extent  that  will  cause  the 
leaves  to  drop,  a  little  being  applied  occasionally  to  prevent  the  soil  from  becoming  entirely  dry. 
They  may  be  placed  in  any  dry,  airy  place,  but  in  the  winter  not  where  it  freezes.  After  they 
have  rested  sufficiently,  they  should  be  cut  back  to  a  degree  that  will  encourage  the  formation  of 
a  well  formed  plant  from  the  new  growth,  and  should  be  well  supplied  with  water.  As  the 
flower  buds  appear,  plants  may  receive  an  occasional  watering  with  liquid  manure.  Frequently 
repotting  the  plants  as  they  require  it  into  larger  sized  pots,  and  in  a  soil  of  the  most  fertile 
nature — it  may  be  one-half  well  rotted  manure — are  important  in  growing  the  plant  to  perfec- 
tion. By  paying  attention  to  this,  and  supplying  sufficient  water,  a  growth  of  an  astonishing 
magnitude  and  appearance  may  be  had  in  the  time  of  a  few  months,  by  starting  with  a  good 
healthy  young  plant.  Excellent  as  a  flowering  plant  in  the  center  of  hanging  baskets  and  vases, 
and  the  double  varieties  are  quite  suitable  for  bedding  in  a  partially  shaded  place  protected  from 
sweeping  winds. 

Alba  coccinea,  sepals  white;  corolla  violet,  mottled  with  rose;  tube  streaked  with  dark  pink. 
Arabella,  white  tube  and  sepals ;  corolla  rich  rose.  Aurora  Superba,  rich,  waxy  pink  ;  splendid 
habit.  Avalanche  (Smith's),  tube  and  sepals  carmine ;  corolla  deep  violet,  and  exceedingly 
large  and  double;  a  free  grower  and  profuse  bloomer;  regarded  as  one  of  the  finest  double 
varieties.  Bianca,  white  sepals ;  deep  pink  corolla.  Bianca  marginata,  early,  free  flowering ; 
the  sepals  are  white  and  finely  reflexed ;  corolla  delicate  pink ;  a  handsome  branching,  erect 
grower.  Bridesmaid,  sepals  white ;  dark  pink  corolla.  Brilliant,  corolla  bright  scarlet ;  sepals 


54 


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Fig.  43.     Double  Fuchsias — Avalanch  and  Princess  of  Wales. 

white.  Charming,  violet  corolla ;  crimson  sepals,  immense  clusters.  Criterion,  coral-red  tube 
and  sepals;  blue  corolla.  Dagmar,  a  fine  and  distinct  variety;  the  tubes  and  sepals  are 
crimson;  corolla  rosy  violet,  laying  open  in  peculiar  salver-shaped  form.  Elm  City,  tube  and 
sepals  crimson  scarlet ;  corolla  dark  purple,  double ;  an  early  flowering  and  desirable  variety. 
Evening  Star,  sepals  blush;  corolla  crimson  scarlet.  Fulgens,  a  variety  of  peculiar  form,  hav- 
ing a  small  bright  scarlet  tube,  enlarging  to  a  pencil-like  diameter  at  about  three  inches  from 


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55 


its  stem,  where  it  divides  into  four  white-pointed  sepals;  the  coro.lla  is  also  scarlet;  novel  and 
beautiful.  Geo.  Felton,  crimson  scarlet  sepals  and  tube ;  dark  purple  corolla ;  very 
double.  Grandiflora  Gem,  a  very  desirable  variety ;  the  tube  and  sepals  are  light  crimson  ; 
corolla  dark  crimson ;  fine  form  and  large  size.  Heather  Bell,  tube  and  sepals  white ;  corolla 
dark  crimson  ;  quite  distinct.  Little  Dorrit,  a  variety  of  miniature  size ;  tube  and  general  form 
about  one-fourth  the  ordinary  size  ;  very  free  flowering.  Puritani,  white  corolla ;  scarlet  sepals. 
Prince  Imperial,  sepals  fine  scarlet ;  corolla  violet ;  the  earliest  dark  variety.  Princess  of 
Wales,  a  crimson  scarlet  variety  of  glossy  texture,  with  white  corolla ;  very  double  and  large. 
Rose  of  Castile,  sepals  white ;  corolla  violet  rose ;  a  somewhat  dwarf,  but  early  and  profuse 
bloomer ;  one  of  the  best.  Sally  Mead,  tube  and  sepals  scarlet ;  corolla  crimson ;  very  double 
and  of  irregular  length,  laying  open  like  a  rose.  Sir  Colin  Campbell,  an  old  favorite ;  double ; 
tube  and  sepals  scarlet;  corolla  dark  purple.  Schiller,  sepals  white;  corolla  a  light  violet, 
changeable  to  rose ;  a  profuse  and  early  bloomer.  Victor  Emanuel,  tube  and  sepals  coral  red  ; 
corolla  fine  double  white,  tinted  with  scarlet  stripes;  beautiful.  Wave  of  Life,  golden  foliage; 
sepals  scarlet ;  corolla  dark  purple.  White  Eagle,  corolla  white  ;  sepals  carmine. 

WINTER  FLOWERING  FUCHSIAS. — The  following  two  varieties  are  the  best  for  winter 
flowering,  while  Bianca  Marginata  is  also  useful  for  this  purpose.  Carl  Halt,  a  new  and 
distinct  variety,  and  very  valuable  for  winter  flowering.  The  flower  is  striped  in  clear  colors  of 
white  and  red,  in  a  novel  and  beautiful  form ;  very  productive.  Speciosa,  a  well  known  variety, 
producing  large  flowers  two  inches  in  length,  tubes  and  sepals  of  which  are  blush,  the  corolla 
crimson.  The  single  plants  of  this  variety,  grown  in  eight  or  nine  inch  pots,  will  produce  from 
three  hundred  to  five  hundred  flowers  from  December  to  May. 

FUNKIA— THE  DAY  LILY  (Hardy  Herbaceous  Perennial). 

The  White  Day  Lily  (F.  Alba  Odora)  is  an  attractive,  bulbous  garden  plant,  with  luxuriant, 
broad,  ovate,  veined  foliage  of  rich  yellowish  green  coior,  that  grows  in  an  elegant  clump  or 
mass  one  foot  high.  The  flowers  are  pure  white  and  fragrant,  of  an  exceedingly  pleasing 
appearance,  and  are  borne  on  stems  twenty  inches  high,  before  midsummer,  opening  only  in  the 
day.  A  mass  of  this  beautiful  plant  growing  on  the  lawn  is  very  handsome.  F.  Ccerulea, 
quite  similar  to  the  above,  excepting  that  the  flowers  are  light  blue,  and  the  foliage  of  a  deep 
green.  F.  Marginata,  with  elegant  variegated  leaves,  distinctly  edged  and  striped  with  sulphur 
yellow. 

GALANTHUS— SNOWDROP  (Hardy  Bulbous  Perennial). 

Most  delightful  little  flowers,  blooming  in  the  open  air  the  very  earliest  of  all  flowers,  gener- 
ally in  warm,  sunny  exposures  long  before  the  snow  has  all  disappeared.  There  are  double  and 
single  varieties,  pure  white.  No  garden  can  be  considered  fairly  stocked,  without  at  least  a  few 
clumps  of  these  earliest  of  early  flowers.  The  bulbs  should  be  planted  in  the  fall  months  with 
Hyacinths,  Tulips,  etc.,  about  two  or  three  inches  deep,  and  if  set  three  inches  apart  in  clumps 
a  foot  or  two  across,  the  effect  will  be  the  finest.  Reset  them  once  in  three  years.  The  Galan- 
thus  are  also  useful  for  forcing  into  bloom  in  winter.  (See  page  21). 

GAZANIA  (Greenhouse  Perennial,  32,  45,  8f). 

Summer  and  autumn  flowering  bedding  plants  of  low  prostrate  habit ;  the  prevailing  colors 
are  orange  and  yellow,  with  a  broad,  intensely  black  velvety  ring  passing  around  the  center. 
Excellent  for  planting  in  hanging  baskets  and  vases.  Propagate  from  cuttings  and  layers. 

GERANIUM— PELARGONIUM  (Greenhouse  Perennials,  33,  45,  85°,  except  where  noted). 

An  extensive,  varied  and  interesting  family  of  plants  of  great  value  for  pot  culture  and  bed- 
ding; indeed,  in  such  a  degree,  that  a  nice  flower  and  window  garden  might  be  sustained  by 
employing  no  other  plants  than  those  included  in  the  genus.  Their  requirements  through- 
•  out  are  of  the  most  simple  kind,  and  there  is  scarcely  such  thing  as  failure  in  realizing 
satisfaction  from  cultivating  them,  even  by  inexperienced  amateurs.  All  the  varieties  of 
the  several  sections  strike  root  readily  from  cuttings.  August  and  September  are  suitable 
months  for  propagating,  as  an  abundance  of  growth  is  then  available,  and  cuttings  struck  at  this 
season  will  make  strong  plants  for  next  year's  use.  They  will  also,  each,  afford  several  young 
cuttings  during  the  winter  for  propagation.  Young  plants  make  such  rapid  growth  that  it  is 
better  to  provide  plenty  of  new  stock  each  fall  and  winter  for  bedding  in  the  spring,  and  also 
for  pot  culture,  to  the  exclusion  of  old  plants.  A  light  place,  where  air  can  be  introduced  to 
them,  is  most  suitable  for  their  winter  quarters.  Old  plants  can  easily  be  kept  over  in  a  warm 
cold-pit  or  light  cellar  which  is  not  too  damp.  (See  Pelargonium.) 

ZONALE,  SCARLET,  OR  HORSESHOE  GERANIUMS. — This  is  perhaps  the  best  known  class  in 
cultivation,  being  easily  grown,  afford  a  large  variety  of  colors,  and  different  habits.  As 
bedding  plants  they  are  unequaled,  being  rapid  growers  and  are  remarkably  free-flowering. 
Scarcely  a  more  pleasing  or  yet  more  simple  disposal  of  plants  can  be  effected  than  to  mass  the 
scarlet  varieties  a  foot  or  eighteen  inches  apart,  according  to  size,  in  a  bed  upon  the  lawn,  to  be 
viewed  from  *a  distance,  as  from  a  walk,  or  a  favorite  window  in  the  living  room.  For  brilliancy 
the  varieties  Gen.  Grant  and  Queen  of  the  West  are  the  best,  being  strong  growers  and  immense 
bloomers.  All  during  the  season  many  large  dazzling  heads  of  bloom  will  be  conspicuous  over 
the  green,  compact  mass  of  leaves,  affording  a  continual,  never-tiring  view  for  months,  which, 


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for  attractiveness,  cannot  be  fully  approached  by  any  other  plants  in  cultivation,  similarly  arranged. 
The  number  of  plants  employed,  or  the  size  of  the  bed,  has  less  to  do  with  its  general  effec- 
tiveness, than,  that  only  one  variety  be  planted,  and  that  of  plants  nearly  uniform  in  size  (see 
"Planting  in  Masses  of  Color,"  page  10).  Varieties  of  other  colors  are  quite  as  suitable  for 
bedding  in  masses ;  my  advice  to  amateurs,  however,  is,  to  make  their  first  choice  of  the  above- 
named  varieties  for  this  purpose,  leaving  other  colors  for  subsequent  plantings,  unless  it  is  desired 
to  plant  a  compound  bed  with  Geraniums,  each  part  with  a  distinctly  colored  variety.  The 
following  varieties  are  best  of  this  section  for  massing : 

Gen.  Grant,  scarlet.  Mons.  Barre,  salmon  rose.        Pearl,  white. 

Gloriede  Carbonay,  salmon  pink.   Mrs.   Whitty,  deep  pink.  Queen  of  the  West,  orange  scarlet. 

In  massing  Geraniums,  the  beds  may  or  may  not  be  edged  Math  plants  of  showy  foliage,  as 
best  suits  the  planter.  The  ground  should  always  be  slightly  raised  in  the  center  and  finished  to 
a  mound-like  form.  This  class  of  Geraniums  are  much  used  as  pot  plants  and  for  planting  in 
the  center  of  hanging  baskets,  urns  and  vases.  For  flowering  in  winter  they  should  be  pinched 
back  occasionally  during  the  previous  summer,  and  not  allowed  to  flower  much. 
Andrew  Henderson,  salmon,  with  scarlet  tinted 

center ; .  a  beautiful  variety. 
Bicolor,  flowers  nearly  pure  white,  with  center 

markings  of  a  rich,  deep  shade  of  rose. 
Bridesmaid,  salmon  rose. 
Blue  Bells,  color  not  a  blue,  but  is  a  rich  shade 

of  majenta  pink ;  forms  an  immense  truss. 
Col.  Holden,  attractive,  deep  rosy  crimson. 
Excellent,  orange  scarlet ;   a   superior  variety 

for  pot  or  basket  culture. 
Francis  Dubois,  white,  salmon  center ;  extra. 
Father  Ignatius,  extra  large  scarlet,  of  aston- 
ishing size  and  perfection. 
General  Grant,  dazzling  scarlet,  immense  truss, 

and  very  free-flowering. 
General  Ulot,  large  scarlet ;  very  desirable. 
Gloriede  Carbonay,  rich  salmon  pink ;  compact. 
Glorious,  brilliant  scarlet. 
Harlequin,  a  distinctly  striped  variety,  ground 

color  salmon  pink,  mottled  and  striped  white. 
Harold,  brilliant  scarlet,  a  free  bloomer  and 

compact  grower. 
Jean  Sisley,  a  very  desirable  variety,  of  dwarf 

habit,  flowers  brilliant  scarlet,  with  a  distinct 

white  eye. 

Jennie,  rosy  pink  ;  dwarf. 
King  of  Pinks,   neat,   compact  habit,  with  a 

dark,  almost  black-brown  zone. 

DOUBLE  GERANIUMS  (see  Figs.  44  and  45). — The  Double  Geraniums  have  been  in 
cultivation  for  only  a  few  years  comparatively,  but  at  the  present  time  they  include  numerous 
desirable  colors,  even  to  pure  white,  with  the  introduction  of  Aline  Sisley.  Their  general 
growing  habit  and  appearance  is  similar  to  the  common  Zonale  or  Scarlet  Geraniums,  except 
that  they  have  larger  leaves  on  an  average,  and  are  something  stronger  in  their  growth,  while 
the  plants  are  equally  valuable,  whether  employed  for  bedding  or  for  growing  in  pots,  but  of 
course  they  are  finer  and  more  desirable  for  the  latter  purpose  than  the  single  kinds,  because  the 
flowers  embrace  the  same  distinct  colors,  are  of  fine  texture,  as  perfectly  double  as  a  Rose,  and  are 
produced  in  the  greatest  profusion  under  ordinary  treatment.  The  soil  for  them  should  not  be 
as  rich  as  for  single  Geraniums,  as  their  growth,  which  is  always  inclined  to  be  free,  would 
become  too  rank,  and  less  flowers  would  be  the  result. 

Aline  Sisley,  this  is  a  long  desired  acquisition,  being  a  pure  white,  double  Geranium  of  good, 
healthy  and  free-flowering  habit.  Still  we  must  enjoy  the  florets  while  they  are  young,  because, 
although  perfectly  white,  they  do  not  remain  so  for  more  than  a  few  days,  after  which  they 
assume  a  pinkish  tint.  I  trust  this  variety  is  the  forerunner  of  others,  whose  color  will  continue 
white,  like  the  single  varieties.  Ascendency,  light  rose;  vigorous.  Double  Andrew  Henderson, 
dark  scarlet,  large  truss,  fine  flower  and  good  grower.  Due  de  Suez,  very  double  scarlet  crimson, 
the  largest  of  all  double  varieties  yet  introduced ;  flowers  of  excellent  shape,  imbricated  and  of 
immense  size ;  habit  of  the  plant  compact  and  neat ;  free-flowering,  beautiful  and  distinct. 
Emile  Lemoine,  fine  truss  and  pips ;  color  light  orange  scarlet,  very  attractive.  Jeanne  de  St. 
Maur,  bright  vermillion.  Madame  Lemoine,  the  color  of  this  variety  is  a  beautiful  rose  of  the 
most  pleasing  shade  and  is  admired  by  every  one ;  a  free  bloomer,  fine  truss  and  form ;  good 
healthy  grower,  and  in  every  way  a  first-class  plant.  Princess  Teck,  a  variety  producing  very 
large,  bright  scarlet  flowers;  perfectly  double  and  beautiful;  very  excellent  and  desirable  in 
every  collection.  Triumph,  rich  shade  of  scarlet.  Triumph  de  Lorraine,  bright  cherry  car- 
mine. Wm.  Pfitzer,  a  scarlet  flowering,  dwarf  variety. 


Laviata,  very  scarlet ;  a  superb  variety. 
Little  Gem,  deep,  clear  scarlet,  distinct  white 

eye;  novel  and  beautiful. 
L?  Incomparable,  ground  a  clear  salmon  color, 

streaked  with  white ;  neat  habit. 
Louis   Veronillot,   deep    crimson    scarlet,    fine 

form  ;  very  distinct  and  attractive. 
Mad.  Vaucher,  pure  white,  compact  grower. 
Mad.  Rendatler,  pink ;  profuse. 
Maid  of  Kent,  color  majenta,  or  lake  rose. 
Marglnata,  white ;  petals  edged  with  pink. 
Master  Christine,  very  profuse  dwarf;  flowers 

deep  rose,  with  white  eye. 
Mons.  Barre,  salmon  rose,  deep  zone. 
Mrs.    Whitty,  deep  pink  nosegay,  a  beautiful 

and  desirable  color ;  excellent. 
Prince  of  Wales,  salmon,  light  edge. 
Pearl,  pure  white  ;  excellent  habit. 
Queen  of  the  West,  bright  orange ;  extra  fine. 
Rival,  rich  scarlet ;  a  superior  variety. 
Sheen  Rival,  scarlet,  tri-color-like  foliage. 
Sncnvball,  pure  white 
Sparkler,  crimson ;    immense  truss,  containing 

one  hundred  and  upwards  of  flowers. 
Troubadouer,  crimson  scarlet ;  rich. 
Warrior,  large,  bright  scarlet ;  fine  flower,  and 

a  good,  well-shaped  grower ;  finely  zoned. 
Wonder,  carmine  crimson,  ornamental  foliage. 


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57 


Fig.  44.     Double  Geranium  Plant. 


Fig.  45.     Double  Geranium  Flower. 


IVY-LEAVED  GERANIUMS  (Peltatum). — In  this  beautiful  division  we  are  given  habits  of  droop- 
ing and  climbing  character,  adapting  them  admirably  for  planting  at  the  edges  of  vases  and 
baskets  for  drooping  over  or  for  training  to  trellises  in  pot  culture.  The  foliage  in  nearly  all  the 
varieties  is  variegated,  and  of  peculiar  waxy  texture,  possessing  mostly  the  Ivy-leaf  shape.  The 
flowers  are  produced  in  abundance  and  show  to  delightful  advantage,  owing  to  the  habit  of  the 
plant.  An  interesting  plant  for  bedding,  as  they  grow  freely  and  creep  beautifully  if  not 
supported. 

Bridal  Wreath,  fine,  large  trusses  of  pure  white  flowers ;  very  distinct.  Duke  of  Edinburgh, 
a  new,  large  leaved  variety.  Floribunda,  bright,  glossy  green,  narrow  zone,  clearly  variegated  in 
creamy  white  and  green ;  pink  flowers.  Holly  Wreath,  deep  and  ragged  golden  white  margin, 
light  green  center.  1}  Elegante,  deep  pea  green,  with  margin  of  white ;  very  beautiful ;  this 
excellent  variety  should  be  in  every  collection ;  will  be  certain  to  please.  Princess  Alexandria, 
beautiful  pure  white  flowers.  Remarkable,  a  remarkably  distinct  variety  of  a  more  decidedly 
climbing  habit  than  any  of  the  preceding  varieties ;  leaves  marked  with  a  dark  Vandyke  ivy- 
shaped  zone,  and  flower  truss  is  of  a  rich  warm  rose-colored  bloom ;  well  adapted  for  pot  culture 
and  training  to  a  trellis  or  conservatory  pillar  and  for  summer  decoration  in  balconies. 

TRICOLOR,  GOLD  AND  SILVER-EDGED  GERANIUMS  (35,  50,  85° ),  see  Fig.  46. — As  their 
names  imply,  the  chief  merit  of  this  section  consists  in  the  distinctly  edged  and  variegated  foli- 
age, although,  without  an  exception,  they  produce  fine  flowers.  Well  grown  specimens  as 
pot  plants  are  exceedingly  unique  for  decorating  the  parlor  or  conservatory,  but  they  should 
have  a  position  as  near  the  glass  as  possible,  as  the  colors  will  be  more  clearly  defined  for  being 
thus  treated.  The  different  varieties  are  useful  for  planting  on  ribbon  beds  to  contrast  with 
Coleus,  Achryanthes,  etc.,  or  for  edging  to  beds  of  Scarlet  Geraniums;  are  also  valuable  for 
planting  in  baskets  and  vases. 

Attraction,  leaves  striped  and  edged  -with  silver,  bronze  zone;  flowers  scarlet.  Avalanch, 
the  new  silver-edged  Geranium,  quite  similar  to  Mount  of  Snow,  except  that  the  flowers  are  pure 
white.  Beauty  of  Caulderdale,  yellowish  green  ground,  fine  dark  zone ;  flowers  scarlet.  Black 
Hawk,  immense  bronze  band  on  light  green ;  scarlet.  Crystal  Palace  Gem,  golden  foliage,  with 
green  diverging  in  marks  from  the  center.  Cloth,  of  Gold,  foliage  golden  yellow,  with  dark  green 
markings ;  scarlet  flowers.  Flower  of  Spring,  a  beautiful  plant ;  leaves  edged  with  straw-tinted 
white ;  a  free-growing  variety ;  excellent  either  for  pot  or  basket  culture,  or  for  bedding.  Golden 
Fleece,  clear  yellow  leaves,  tinted  green.  Golden  Pheasant,  margin  golden  yellow,  fine  zone ; 
scarlet.  Italia  Unita,  sulphur  white  margin,  with  a  dark  zone  on  the  notched-like  intersections 
of  green  and  white,  being  on  the  green  a  dark  maroon  color,  on  the  white  a  rose  and  delicate 
pink ;  scarlet  flowers.  Lady  Cullum,  finely-marked  foliage,  much  like  Mrs.  Pollock.  Mount 
of  Snow,  pure  white-margined  foliage ;  scarlet  flowers ;  strong  grower ;  this  is  one  of  the  best 
and  most  desirable  varieties  of  the  class  (see  Fig.  46).  Mrs.  Pollock,  one  of  the  most  beautiful 


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Fig.  46. — Silver-edged  Geranium.     (See  Flower  of  Spring,  Mount  of  Snow,  etc.,  varieties.) 

of  the  tri-colors ;  leaves  colored  with  deep  green,  light  green,  crimson  bronze  and  clear  yellow ; 
flowers  deep  scarlet  (see  Fig.  42).  Neatness,  greenish  yellow,  with  broad  chocolate  band  ; 
cherry  pink.  Rose  Queen,  margined  white,  distinct  zone  on  green  disc.  Silver  Pheasant, 
leaves  margined  with  tinted  white ;  compact  grower. 

HYBRID  PERPETUAL  GERANIUMS. — This  class  comprises  but  a  limited  number  of  varieties, 
their  characteristics  in  most  kinds  being  fragrance  of  leaves,  with  marked  flowers,  in  the  style 
of  Pelargonium,  but  of  smaller  size.  Flower  more  or  less  continually  throughout  the  season. 

SCENTED  AND  CUT-LEAVED  GERANIUMS. — The  Geranium  family  affords  in  this  delightful 
section  a  remarkable  diversity  of  sweet  smelling  odors  in  their  foliage,  resembling  fruits,  etc., 
which  is  not  common  with  any  other  family  of  plants  to  anything  like  a  similar  extent.  The 
Rose,  Apple,  Lemon,  Orange  and  Peppermint  are  sufficiently  distinct  in  fragrance  that  no  imagi- 
nation or  fancy  is  required  to  detect  the  resemblance  to  the  natural  fruits,  etc.,  from  which  they 
suggestively  derive  their  names.  The  Nutmeg  fragrance  in  the  variety  so  called  is  not  quite  so 
apparent;  neither  is  that  of  the  Citron  and  Pennyroyal,  yet  these  each  possess  quite  a  distinct 
fragrance  which  is  agreeable  and  desirable  for  variety.  The  Oak-leaved  variety  resembles 
the  oak  leaf  in  shape ;  has  clearly  defined  variegations  and  bears  attractive  pink  flowers  with 
brilliant  dark  spots  on  the  petals.  Fernifolia  is  a  beautiful  variety  with  very  thin,  finely  cut 
leaves  of  fern-like  texture  and  of  a  transparent  green  color,  which  renders  it  a  real  novelty. 
Skeleton-leaved  is  a  very  attractive  variety  with  foliage  of  real  skeleton-like  appearance ;  that  is  to 
say,  the  leaves  are  singularly  cut,  the  fleshy  material  lying  along  both  sides  of  the  framework  ribs 
of  the  leaf,  but  generally  less  than  one-eighth  of  an  inch  in  width  in  any  part.  Dr.  Livingstone 
somewhat  resembles  skeleton-leaved.  Lady  Plymouth,  besides  possessing  fragrance,  is  similar 
in  form  of  the  foliage  to  the  Rose,  with  distinct  edges  and  variegations  of  white  throughout. 
This  is  a  beautiful  variety  for  pot  culture  or  for  bedding  out.  Shrub/and  Pet  is  a  free-growing 
variety  with  a  sweet  fragrance  somewhat  resembling  Rose;  it  grows  rapidly  when  bedded, 
assuming  a  height  of  eighteen  inches,  and  bears  constantly  in  summer  hundreds  of  rich  crimson 


THE  HOME  FLORIST. 


flowers.     Little  Pet  is  a  dwarf  grower  and  profuse  bloomer,  with  deep  green  foliage  resembling 
the  Rose  in  form  ;  very  desirable  as  a  pot  or  summer  bedding  plant. 

All  the  scented  and  cut-leaved  Geraniums  are  valuable  as  pot  plants,  as  they  are  not  depen- 
dant upon  bloom  to  make  them  attractive,  although  nearly  all  bear  flowers  freely,  and  some 
are  really  very  desirable  for  their  flowers  alone.  Their  value  as  bedding  plants  seems  not  to  be 
justly  appreciated  by  cultivators.  They  are  without  exception  rapid,  handsome  growers,  and 
become  in  a  short  time  after  bedding  exceedingly  beautiful.  All  the  varieties  propagate  readily 
from  cuttings,  except  the  Apple,  which  is  reared  from  seed. 

GESNERA  ZEBRINA  (Greenhouse  Bulbous  Perennial,  jj,  60,  90°). 

A  pot  plant  with  most  beautiful  velvety  foliage,  richly  variegated  in.  green  and  maropn. 
It  dies  down  to  the  root  at  the  approach  of  winter,  after  which  water  should  be  withheld  almost 
entirely,  keeping  the  pot  in  a  warm  place.  In  spring  the  bulb  may  be  repotted,  dividing  it  if 
desirable,  and  be  given  plenty  of  water  to  induce  a  new  growth.  Should  have  sandy  loam  soil, 
which  will  be  the  better  for  an  admixture  of  thoroughly  decayed  leaf  mould. 

GLADIOLUS. 

Of  the  summer  flowering  bulbs  the  Gladiolus  stands  eminently  at  the  head,  as  the  most 
imposing,  varied  and  beautiful  class.  The  flowers  on  a  bed  of  good  varieties  are  gorgeous  and 
attractive  beyond  description.  They  are  produced  in  spikes,  two  feet  and  upward  in  height,  and 
have,  especially  the  newer  varieties,  a  rich,  substantial  texture,  which  make  them  the  subjects 
of  irresistible  admiration  from  every  one.  By  planting  at  intervals,  from  the  middle  of  April  to 
June,  the  flower  garden  may  be  brilliant  with  their  colors  for  several  months  in  summer  and 
early  autumn.  Plant  two  or  three  inches  deep  and  six  or  nine  inches  apart  Keep  tied  to 
stakes,  or,  if  in  beds,  to  twine  stretched  across  the  bed.  By  the  middle  of  October  take  up  the 
bulbs,  leave  to  dry  for  a  few  days,  but  not  expose  to  frosts,  remove  the  tops,  and  store  in  a 
moderately  warm  place  for  next  year's  planting.  The  rapid  natural  increase  of  the  Gladiolus, 
under  any  common  cultivation,  together  with  the  slight  first  cost  of  the  bulbs,  always  tend  to 
make  the  culture  satisfactory. 

Adonis,  light  cherry,  marked  with  white.  Annatal  Levanneur,  brilliant  crimson,  with 
maroon  and  azure.  Antonius,  cherry  color,  tinged  with  orange.  Aristole,  rosy  lilac,  mottled 
with  crimson,  yellow  and  carmine.  Berenice,  rose,  streaked  with  carmine  and  purple.  Brench- 
leyensis,  deep  vermillion  scarlet  ;  fine.  Chas.  Dickens,  delicate  rose,  blazed  with  crimson  rose. 
Couranti  Fulgens,  brilliant  crimson,  with  yellow.  Daphne,  light  cherry,  with  darker  stripes, 
stained  with  carmine.  De  Audry,  brilliant.  Don  Juan,  rich  fiery  orange,  with  darker  marks  and 
blotches.  Emma,  clear  deep  carmine  ;  dwarf.  Eugene  Verdier,  rich  carmine,  with  deep  crimson 
spots.  Fanny  Rouguet,  rosy  flesh  color,  with  carmine  stripe  ;  excellent.  Galathea,  fine  pinkish  white, 
with  carmine  spots  and  stains.  Gandavensis,  red,  marked  with  yellow,  amaranth  stripe.  Gem, 
rosy  lilac,  slightly  penciled  with  carmine  and  yellow.  Hercules,  fawn  and  scarlet,  with  yellow. 
John  Bull,  white,  slightly  tinged  with  lilac,  and  sometimes  of  pinkish  color;  large  and  excellent. 
Lelia,  peach  blossom,  stained  lilac.  Lord  Byron,  brilliant  scarlet,  stained  and  ribboned  pure 
white.  Madame  de  Vatry,  white,  with  violet  crimson  tint.  Madame  Hercinque,  white,  yellow, 
and  rosy  violet,  marbled.  Madame  Hocquin,  blotched  and  marbled  scarlet.  Madame  La  Febre, 
light  pink  and  rose.  Madame  Victor  Verdier,  scarlet  and  rose,  with  violet  spots.  Mars,  fine 
form  and  color.  Mazeppa,  rosy  orange  and  red,  large  yellow  stems  ;  late.  Meteor,  dark  brilliant 
red,  with  white  stains.  Meyerbeer,  very  brilliant  light  red,  blazed  with  vermillion,  amaranth 
stain;  superb.  Mons.  Vinchon,  light  salmon  red.  Nemesis,  rosy  scarlet,  with  yellow  and 
purple.  Ninon  de  Endor,  fine  rose,  flushed  with  carmine.  Osiris,  purplish  rose,  with  dark 
blotches.  Pallas,  bright  rose,  shaded  with  orange.  Princess  de  Montrague,  brilliant  red  ;  dwarf. 
Princess  of  Wales,  white,  blazed  with  carminate  rose.  Princess  Fred.  William,  flesh  color, 
lightly  streaked.  Proserpine,  rosy  white,  marked  with  deep  rose  and  crimson.  Rembrandt, 
bright  scarlet.  Stuart  JSoiv,  violet  rose,  stained  deep  rose.  Urania,  white,  blazed  with  carmi- 
nate rose.  Vesta,  white,  shaded  and  marked  with  carmine  pink.  Victoria,  rosy  red,  with  a 
slight  white  center. 

GNAPHALIUM  LANATUM  (Greenhouse  Perennial,  33,  43,  90°). 

A  white  foliaged  plant,  of  spreading  habit,  about  one  foot  high;  well  adapted  for  the  front 
lines  of  ribbon  beds,  also  fine  for  baskets  and  vases. 

GODETIA  (Hardy  Annual). 

Annuals  of  good  quality,  readily  grown  from  seed,  which  may  be  sown  where  they  are  to 
flower.  They  will  thrive  in  any  garden  soil,  and  will  bloom  nearly  the  entire  season. 

GOMPHRENA—  ENGLISH   CLOVER  (Half-Hardy  Annual). 

An  indispensable  family  of  everlasting  flowers,  with  colors  as  brilliant  and  showy  as 
any  belonging  to  this  interesting  class.  Aside  of  the  desirable  quality  in  the  flowers,  of  drying, 
and  retaining  their  forms  and  colors  for  years,  they  are  highly  useful  as  summer  decorative 
plants  for  planting  singly  in  the  border,  or  for  massing  and  ribboning,  on  account  of  their 
attractive  free-flowering  habit;  the  flowers  also  being  useful,  in  their  fresh  state,  for  sum- 
mer cutting.  The  colors  are  white,  flesh-color,  dark  purplish  crimson,  and  orange.  Sow 
the  seed  in  a  hot-bed  or  window-box,  quite  early,  and  transplant  the  young  seedlings,  the  latter 


60  THE  HOME  FLORIST. 

part  of  May,  to  a  foot  apart  in  the  garden.  By  removing  the  cottony  husk  which  envelopes  the 
seed,  it  will  germinate  more  freely.  For  drying,  do  not  pick  before  they  are  of  full  size, 
which  will  be  in  August  or  September.  Gomphrenas  are  also  well  adapted  for  pot  culture  in 
summer,  flowering  nearly  as  freely  as  in  the  open  ground ;  for  this  purpose  the  soil  should  be 
rich,  and  no  lack  of  water  allowed. 

GOLD   DUST   SHRUB— AUCUBA   JAPONICA  (Greenhouse  Perennial,  30,  45,  8f). 
A  beautiful   pot   plant,  prized   for  its  attractive  foliage;    the  leaves,  which  are  large  and 
smooth,  are  deep  green  and  exquisitely  blotched  or  speckled  with  golden  yellow.     The  plant 
is  almost  hardy,  and  will  thrive  under  the  most  ordinary  culture ;  very  desirable  in  the  win- 
dow, conservatory  or  for  summer  decoration  in  pots. 

GRASSES   FOR  DRYING  (Annuals  and  Biennials). 

The  varieties  of  these,  though,  of  course,  not  brilliant,  are  interesting  in  the  garden  and 
desirable  for  cutting  with  flowers  in  summer ;  but  they  are  particularly  valuable  to  use  with  the 
everlasting  flowers  for  the  formation  of  winter  bouquets,  wreaths  and  other  ornaments.  For 
this  purpose  they  should  be  cut  in  a  green  state  and  dried  in  the  shade. 

Agrostis  Nebulosa,  most  elegant  ornamental  grass ;  fine  and  feathery ;  very  delicate.  Briza 
Maxima,  one  of  the  best  of  the  ornamental  grasses ;  perfectly  hardy ;  sow  in  the  open  ground 
any  time  in  spring.  Briza  Minor,  very  small  and  pretty;  sow  early.  Bromus  Briz&fonnis  is 
much  like  Briza  Maxima,  but  is  only  useful  the  second  summer  after  sowing.  Coix  Lachryma 
(Job's  Tears),  this  grass  is  of  no  value  for  drying  to  be  used  in  the  formation  of  winter  bouquets, 
but  is  grown  for  its  wonderful  bead-like  seeds.  These  are  hard  as  glass,  possessing  a 
glazed  surface,  and  each  seed  is  naturally  punctured  with  a  hole  which  admits  of  their  being 
strung  upon  a  thread,  like  beads.  Not  brilliant,  but  interesting  and  easily  grown.  Langurus 
Ovatus  (Hare's  Tail  Grass),  showy  head;  excellent.  Stipa  Pennata  (Feather  Grass),  a  most 
useful  and  exceedingly  graceful  and  handsome  grass  for  winter  bouquets,  flowering  the  second 
season.  The  rows  should  be  distinctly  labeled ;  the  grass  so  nearly  resembling  ordinary  grass 
that  it  would  be  in  danger  of  being  hoed  out,  unless  guarded  by  some  means. 

GYMNOSTACHYUM  (Greenhouse  Perennial,  38,  jjT,  90°). 

Beautiful  pot  plants  for  the  conservatory  or  for  Fernery  culture  in  the  window,  with  smooth 
leaves,  richly  painted  with  reticulations,  in  marks,  which  vary  from  red  to  rich  pink  on  a  deep 
green  ground.  A  warm,  damp,  shady  place  suits  them  best. 

GYPSOPHILA  MURALIS  (Hardy  Annual). 

A  free  flowering,  graceful  little  plant  for  the  garden.  It  is  readily  grown  from  the  seed,  and 
bears  very  small  rose-colored  flowers  on  many  delicate  stems,  which  gives  to  it  an  exceedingly 
light,  airy  appearance,  somewhat  resembling  the  seeds  of  some  grasses. 

HANGING  BASKET,   VASE   AND  TRELLIS   PLANTS.     Select  list,  page  18. 

HELIANTHUS— SUN   FLOWER  (Hardy  Annual). 

A  well  known  genus  of  rather  coarse,  large  flowering  plants  for  the  garden,  which  can  be 
rendered  useful  in  mixed  collections  of  tall  growing  Ricinus,  Cannas,  etc.,  in  beds  in  the  back 
ground.  There  are  double  and  single  varieties,  all  of  which  may  be  grown  with  the  greatest 
ease  by  sowing  the  seed  where  they  are  to  bloom. 

HELICHRYSUM— EVERLASTING  FLOWER  (Hardy  Annual). 

Everlasting  flowers  of  great  merit  for  winter  bouquets  and  other  indoor  decorations,  as  well 
as  for  their  beauty  in  the  flower  garden  in  summer.  There  are  several  beautiful  and  even  bril- 
liant colors  and  shades,  including  dark  purple,  yellow,  orange,  white,  bright  rose,  some  of  which 
are  not  common  to  the  other  families  of  everlastings,  while  with  being  very  double  they  should 
not  be  overlooked  by  the  cultivator  who  is  seeking  kinds  suitable  for  drying.  Cut  the  flowers 
before  they  are  fully  expanded,  and  also  cure  some  of  the  buds,  which  make  up  beautifully, 
and  are  desirable  for  variety.  The  young  plants  transplant  readily,  and  the  seed  may  be  sown 
in  the  hot-bed  or  in  the  house  in  April,  setting  the  seedlings  at  a  distance  of  a  foot  apart. 

HELIOTROPE  (Greenhouse  Perennial,  35,  jo,  8f). 

An  important  plant  either  for  pot  culture  in  the  winter  or  bedding  out.  The  flowers,  which 
are  produced  freely,  are  prized  for  their  attractive  light  violet  color — a  color  rare  among  choice 
flowers — but,  above  all,  for  the  delicious  vanilla-like  scented  odor  emitted,  which  has  given  it  a 
reputation  above  every  other  fragrant  flowering  plant  that  can  be  managed  to  produce  bloom 
during  the  entire  year.  The  plants  make  a  rapid  growth  in  the  open  air  and  bear  an  immense 
number  of  flowers  until  frost.  For  winter  blooming  in  the  window  or  conservatory  it  is  best 
to  start  with  young  plants  the  spring  previous,  or  some  propagated  from  young  shoots  in  June  or 
July  will  do  well  and  make  large  strong  plants  by  the  first  of  October,  provided  they  have 
been  brought  along  in  rich  soil ;  the  plants  never  having  become  badly  root-bound  before  they  re- 
ceived a  shift  into  larger  pots ;  and  always  amply  supplied  with  water.  During  winter  give  them 
the  most  sunny  exposure  that  can  be  afforded,  provided  it  is  sufficiently  warm,  as  they  will  not 
thrive  in  much  shade.  Wash  the  foliage  occasionally  and  see  that  no  red  spider  attacks  the 


THE  HOME  FLORIST. 


61 


plants.  The  soil  should  contain  a  small  portion  of  sand.  The  Heliotrope  can  be  grown  to 
a  great  age  by  training  the  shoots  to  a  trellis,  but  I  consider  their  culture  more  satisfactory, 
if  the  plants  are  renewed  each  year,  keeping  them  bushy,  by  pinching  back.  There  are 

numerous  varieties  in  cultivation,  but  really  so  little 
difference  exists  between  them  that  it  is  scarcely 
worth  while  to  pay  attention  to  procuring  any  but 
the  best  growing  and  most  profuse  blooming  kinds. 
I  have  found  the  variety  Chieftain  to  be  a  superior 
one  for  both  summer  and  winter  culture. 

HELIPTERUM  SANFORDII  (Tender  Annual). 
A  choice  and  distinct  everlasting  flower,  growing 
less  than  one  foot  in  height,  with  large  globular  clus- 
ters of  bright  golden  yellow  star-like  flowers,  which 
individually  are  of  small  size.  Very  desirable  for 
winter  bouquets,  and  cutting  fresh  in  summer.  Sow 
in  heat  and  transplant  to  the  garden  after  danger  of 
frost  is  past. 

HESPERIS  MATRONALIS   ALBA  PLENO 

(Hardy  Herbaceous  Perennial). 
A  fine  hardy  herbaceous  plant,  with  spikes  of  clear 
white  flowers  a  foot  long,  produced  in  early  summer, 
which  are  highly  esteemed  for  their  fragrance  and 
beauty. 

HOLLYHOCK  (Hardy  Herbaceous  Perennial). 

A  well  known  and  splendid  hardy  plant  for  the  gar- 
den, ranking  with  the  Dahlia  for  autumn  decoration, 
and,  from  its  stately  growth  and  the  varied  colors  of 
its  magnificent  spikes  of  flowers,  may  justly  demand 
a  place  in  every  collection  where  suitable  situations 
for  its  tall  growth  are  afforded.  It  may  be  perpetu- 
ated from  the  seed,  or  by  dividing  the  roots.  The 
plants  flower  the  second  year,  from  seed  sown  in  the 
spring  or  before  the  first  of  September.  To  increase 
it  by  division,  the  stalks  should  be  cut  clown  in  Au- 
gust, afterwards  dividing  the  roots  with  a  sharp  knife. 
They  are  impatient  of  a  wet  soil  and  will  winter 
badly  unless  grown  where  it  is  dry,  a  well  drained 
light  rich  soil  being  best  adapted  for  them. 

HOYA  CARNOSA— WAX  PLANT  (Greenhouse 
Perennial,  jj,  30,  90°). 

A  house  plant  of  climbing  habit,  that  is  also  suita- 
ble for  conservatory  culture,  with  finely  formed,  thick, 
waxy  foliage.  The  flowers,  which  are  produced  in 
clusters,  have  a  pearly,  wax-like  appearance,  are  star- 
shaped,  with  a  pink  or  crimson  center.  They  are 
of  easy  culture  and  continue  to  increase  in  beauty 
for  years ;  should  be  provided  with  a  suitable  trellis 
for  support.  The  Hoya  does  not  require  much  water, 
and,  when  growing  in  the  window,  should  have  its 
foliage  cleaned  of  accumulating  dust  occasionally. 

HYACINTH  (Hardy  Bidb). 

The  Hyacinth  is  a  well-known  family  of  those 
hardy  bulbs  that  are  planted  in  the  fall  and  which 
flower  early  in  the  spring.  In  common  with  the  Tulip, 
Crocus,  etc.,  it  is  adapted  for  winter  flowering  in  the 
window  or  conservatory,  and  is  preferred  above  all 
other  bulbs  for  such  purposes.  The  flowers  are  very 
fragrant,  of  beautiful  form,  both  double  and  single, 
possess  attractive  colors,  and  remain  beautiful  for 
a  great  length  of  time,  either  when  forced  or  in  the 
open  air.  In  the  garden  they  should  be  planted  six 
or  eight  inches  apart  and  four  inches  deep.  On 
pages  14  and  21  will  be  found  directions  for  cultiva- 
ting the  Hyacinth,  and  other  bulbs  of  similar  require- 
Fig.  47.  Double  Hollyhock.  ments,  in  the  garden  and  in  pots  for  winter  blooming. 


62  THE  HOME  FLORIST. 

HYDRANGEA  (Greenhouse  Perennial,  32,  45,  So0). 

Hydrangea  Hortensis  is  a  well-known  pot  plant,  and  much  esteemed  for  its  great  profusion  of 
elegant  but  monstrous  flowers,  which  pass  in  rotation  through  several  shades  of  pink  colors, 
and  remain  upon  the  plant  for  months.  The  plants  succeed  much  better  in  a  shady  place  than 
where  it  is  sunny,  on  which  account  they  are  valuable  for  house  culture.  It  requires  a 
plentiful  supply  of  water  during  its  growth,  and  especially  when  in  flower — the  flowers  being 
produced  upon  shoots  of  the  previous  year.  Being  tolerably  hardy,  in  the  Southern  States  it  may 
be  planted  in  the  open  air  and  remain  out  during  winter  with  protection,  and  will  flower 
profusely  from  June  to  October.  //.  Hortensis  Variegata  is  a  somewhat  rare  and  beautiful 
variety  of  the  preceding,  with  the  foliage  distinctly  blotched  with  clear  white  upon  green.  It  is 
readily  grown  and  forms  one  of  the  most  delightful  variegated  house  plants  which  can  be 
cultivated.  , 

ICE    PLANT.     See  Mesembryanthemum. 

1BERIS.      See  Candytuft. 
IPOMGEA  (Tender  Annual). 

A  splendid  family  of  climbers,  with  which  the  Morning  Glory,  as  Iponuza  purpurca,  is  classed 
by  some,  although  all  the  varieties,  besides,  ai-e  more  tender  than  this  well-known,  useful 
climber.  Our  seasons  are  rather  short  in  the  North  to  derive  great  satisfaction  from  the  tender 
kinds,  unless  they  are  brought  forward  in  heat.  By  sowing  the  seed  in  March  or  April  and  culti- 
vating in  pots,  or  transplanting,  with  great  care,  to  a  sheltered  situation  in  the  ground  after  June 
first,  they  will  amply  repay  all  the  care  bestowed  upon  them,  and  will,  by  this  means,  flower 
profusely  and  until  frosts.  There  will  be  little  use  of  sowing  the  seeds  in  the  open  ground  before 
the  last  of  May,  as  the  soil  must  be  warm  to  enable  them  to  germinate.  The  seeds  are  hard, 
and  previous  to  sowing  should  be  soaked  in  boiling  water,  and  allowed  to  remain  until  the  water 
is  cold.  The  Ipomoeas  are  very  desirable  plants  for  cultivation  in  pots  for  conservatory  decora- 
tion. Under  any  circumstances,  they  require  a  soil  well  enriched  with  rotten  manure. 

/.  Coccinaa  (Star  Ipomoea),  a  handsome  variety  of  free  growth  and  profuse  blooming  habit, 
especially  after  midsummer.  Small,  bright  scarlet  flowers  that  are  very  attractive.  Does  quite 
well,  ordinarily,  by  sowing  in  the  open  ground,  towards  the  end  of  May.  /.  Hederacea  grandi- 
flora  includes  several  beautiful  varieties,  with  flowers  somewhat  similar  to  the  Morning  Glory, 
but  much  larger  and  of  the  most  delicate  colors,  such  as  light  blue,  blue  with  a  white  edge, 
blue  with  a  purple  center,  white  with  pink  center,  and  white  shaded  with  purplish  red.  They 
are  exceedingly  handsome  and  well  repay  the  care  necessary  to  rear  them.  /.  Quamoclit 
(Cypress  Vine),  an  exceedingly  beautiful  variety  that,  for  elegance  of  foliage,  gracefulness  of 
habit,  and  loveliness  of  flowers,  is  without  a  rival  among  annual  climbing  plants,  although  it  is 
quite  tender.  There  are  scarlet,  white  and  rose-colored  flowers,  which  open  in  the  morning, 
and  contrast  delightfully  with  the  rich  green,  delicate  cut  foliage. 

IRIS — FLOWER  DE  LUCE  (Hardy  Perennial  Bulbs  aud  Tubers). 

Garden  plants  of  elegant  habit  and  beautiful  flowers,  comprising  several  divisions — those 
most  commonly  met  with  being  the  English  and  Spanish  Iris,  which  are  bulbous,  and  the 
German  Iris,  well-known  hardy,  tuberous  perennials,  generally  known  by  the  name  of  Flag 
Lily,  and  which  thrive  in  any  garden  soil. 

ENGLISH  AND  SPANISH  IRIS. — This  division  includes  numerous  varieties,  flowering  in  June, 
which  embrace  the  most  delicate  shades  of  light  and  dark  blue,  brown,  purple,  yellow,  white, 
and  variously  striped  and  spotted  flowers  of  exceedingly  handsome  appearance.  The  bulbs 
should  be  planted  in  autumn,  with  Hyacinths,  Tulips  and  other  hardy  bulbs  (see  directions,  page 
14),  and  need  not  be  taken  up  oftener  than  once  in  three  years.  Are  also  desirable  for  pot  cul- 
ture in  winter  (see  "Culture  of  Hyacinths  and  other  Hardy  Bulbs  for  Winter  Decoration,"  page 
2i).  The  English  varieties  are  of  more  robust  growth  than  the  Spanish,  but  in  other  respects 
quite  similar. 

GERMAN  IRIS. — These  are  valuable  plants  for  the  garden,  being  of  the  easiest  culture  in  any 
soil,  and  produce  many  beautiful  flowers  in  the  spring.  There  are  numerous  varieties,  of  various 
colors  and  shades  of  yellow,  blue,  purple,  white  and  salmon — some  distinctly  of  one  color,  and 
others  striped,  spotted  and  tipped  with  various  colors.  The  tubers  grow  rapidly  and  should  be 
taken  up  once  every  three  or  four  years,  and  be  reset. 

IVY — HEDERA  (Hardy  and   Tender  Perennials). 

I  take  pleasure  in  introducing  a  full  page  plate  of  Ivy  foliage,  considerably  reduced  in  size, 
upon  which  are  represented  some  of  the  most  distinct  and  interesting  varieties  of  this  useful 
family  of  plants.  Sometimes  I  think  the  reason  why  Ivies  are  not  grown  in  every  home  is, 
because  amateurs  have  not  all  seen  or  became  acquainted  with  their  admirable  adaptability  to 
house  culture.  In  the  first  place  the  Ivy  naturally  delights  in  a  situation  partially  or  wholly 
shaded  from  the  sun,  which  allows  of  its  growing  or  being  trained — for.it  is  climbing  in  habit 
— in  any  part  of  the  room,  and  at  a  distance  from  the  window;  then  again,  wholly  unlike 
many  plants,  it  is  not  at  all  particular  as  regards  temperature,  or  if  the  atmosphere  be  dry  or 
damp ;  frosts  do  not  affect  it,  as  it  is  evergreen,  and  all  the  varieties  are  nearly,  some  quite, 
hardy  in  the  latitude  of  Buffalo,  and,  on  the  other  hand,  it  bears  75°  or  upwards  of  heat 
with  impunity.  The  plant  requires  but  little  attention,  is  exceptionally  free  of  insects  and 


THE  HOME  FLORIST. 


1.  Hedera  Gracilis. 

2.  H.  Marginata  Elegantissima. 
j".  H.  Marginata  Cullissi. 

4.  H.  Carariensis  (English  Ivy). 

J.  //.  Latifolia  Maculata. 

6.  PL  Chrysocarpa. 


Group  of  Ivy  Leaves. 


7.  Hedera  Japonica  Argentea. 

8.  H.  Rhojnba  Variegata. 
<?.  H.  Folia  Picta. 

jo.  H.  Palmata  (Palm-leaf  Ivy). 

11.  H.  Bicolor. 

12.  H.  Poetica  (Poet's  Ivy). 


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would  continue  to  thrive  for  a  long  time  under  neglect  that  would  kill  most  other  plants  out- 
right. It  is  true  the  Ivy  ordinarily  bears  no  flowers,  but  the  foliage  presents  a  remarkably  bright 
clean,  glossy  appearance,  and  is  of  an  attractive  deep  green  color,  except  where  variegated  or 

blotched  ;  besides  in  the  different  varieties  numer- 
ous distinct  and  interesting  forms  and  variegations 
exist  permanently,  that  we  do  not  mind  the  lack 
in  this  respect.  The  Ivy  is  very  tractable,  and 
if  planted  in  a  large -sized  pot  and  permanently 
placed  in  the  parlor  or  sitting  room,  it  may  be 
trained  to  cover  the  side  of  the  room  or  ceiling, 
festoon  a  pillar,  climb  and  trail  about  a  window- 
sill,  or  up  a  wire  screen  or  trellis,  and  endless 
othe.r  uses.  Fig.  49  represents  a  plant  used  to 
decorate  a  picture  or  mirror  frame.  In  planting 
for  this  delightful  purpose  no  earthen  pot  is  used, 
but  instead,  the  plant  is  grown  in  a  wedge-shaped 
zinc  pot  or  pan,  open  at  the  top,  placed  behind 
the  frame.  It  is  also  unequaled  as  a  climber  or 
drooper  for  hanging  baskets.  As  a  rule,  the  varie- 
gated varieties  are  of  slower  growth  than  the 
others  and  not  so  good  for  planting  where  a  large 
space  is  to  be  covered  with  foliage,  but  for  pot 
culture  they  are  unequaled.  Propagate  easily 
from  cuttings  or  by  layers. 

H.  Bicolor,  a  variety  of  free  growth,  edged 
silvery  white  (No.  1 1  on  plate).  H.  Canariensis 
(English  Ivy),  an  excellent  variety  for  cultivation 
in  the  house,  being  a  free  grower,  and  very  beau- 
tiful (No.  4  on  plate).  H.  Canariensis  Mannar- 
ata,  very  similar  to  the  above,  except  that  the 
foliage  is  distinctly  marbled  with  silvery  white 
and  yellow;  vigorous.  //.  Chrysocarpa,  exceed- 
ingly pretty,  narrow  elongated  leaves  ;  a  handsome 
and  free  grower  (No.  6  on  plate).  H.  Folio  Picta, 
leaves  clearly  blotched  with  golden  yellow  (No. 
9  on  plate).  H.  Gradlis,  a  slender,  rapid  growing 
Ftg.  49.  Ivy  Trained  about  Frame.  variety,  with  attractive  narrow  lobed  leaves;  by 
pinching  back  the  ends  of  shoots,  to  induce  a  dense  growth,  it  forms  a  beautiful  pot  plant  with- 
out a  trellis;  also  superior  as  a  drooper  in  baskets,  vases,  etc.,  (No.  I  on  plate).  //.  Helix  (Irish 
Ivy)  the  hardiest  of  all  Ivies,  leaf  similar  to  Canariensis;  will  thrive  unprotected  in  the  North, 
if  planted  where  the  sun  in  winter  cannot  strike  it.  //.  Japonica  Argentea,  silver-margined 
Japanese,  distinct  (No.  7  on  plate).  H.  Latifolia  Maculata,  a  free  growing  variety,  marbled 
ana  blotched  in  a  very  attractive  manner  (No.  5  on  plate).  H.  Marginata  Cullissi,  Cullis' 
silver-margined,  very  fine  (No. 3  on  plate).  H.  Marginata  Elegantissima,  margined  with  light 
yellow  (No.  2  on  plate).  H.  Palmata  (Palm-leaf  Ivy),  an  attractive  and  interesting  Ivy,  with 
beautifully  defined  foliage  (No.  10  on  plate).  H.  Poetica  (Poet's  Ivy),  a  handsome  variety,  of 
beautiful  form  of  leaf  and  growth  (No.  12  on  plate).  H.  Regneriana,  very  large  leaves  of 
roundish  outline  and  massive  growth.  II.  Rhomba  variegata,  silver  margined,  distinct  and 
beautiful  (No.  8  on  plate). 

JAPANESE   STRIPED   MAIZE  (Tender  Annual). 

A  plant  closely  allied  and  quite  similar  to  the  common  Indian  Corn,  the  foliage  of  which  is 
beautifully  and  freely  striped  throughout  its  entire  length  with  white  of  various  widths,  render- 
ing the  plant 'very  effective  when  grouped  with  Cannas,  Helianthus,  Hollyhocks,  Ricinus,  etc., 
or  if  planted  in  ribbon  lines.  May  be  started  in  pots  about  May  ist,  or  planted  where  wanted 
several  weeks  later.  The  plant  retains  its  attractiveness  for  a  long  time,  as  it  does  not  tassel 
and  seed  as  freely  as  the  common  Maize  or  Indian  Corn. 

JASMINUM  GRANDIFLORUM  (Greenhouse  Perennial,  35,  50  to  60,  85°). 
A  plant  for  pot  culture,  of  climbing  habit,  with  delicately  cut  foliage,  and  which  is  esteemed 
for  the  fragrance  of  its  pure  white  single  flowers.  Fine  for  winter  flowering  in  a  warm  light 
window  or  in  the  conservatory ;  it  can  be  trained  to  a  stake  or  trellis,  or  be  planted  for  twining 
up  the  pillars  of  the  latter.  The  soil  in  which  it  is  grown  should  be  loose  and  of  a  fertile 
character.  Propagates  with  some  difficulty  from  cuttings. 

JONQUIL.     See  Narcissus. 

JUSTICA  CARNEA  (Greenhouse  Perennial,  jj,  jo,  go"). 

An  upright  growing  pot  plant  of  free  growth,  crowned  with  rosy  pink  spikes  of  flowers 
nearly  the  whole  year.  They  are  easily  cultivated  in  any  soil,  but  it  should  be  well  drained 
with  pot  shreds  or  gravel,  and  be  given  abundant  pot  room. 


THE  HOME  FLORIST.  65 


LADY'S  EAR  DROP.     See  Fuchsia. 
LANTANA  (Greenhouse  Perennial,  jjr,  50,  90°). 

These  desirable  plants  are  annually  growing  in  favor,  both  for  bedding  purposes  and  pot 
culture.  They  are  of  brilliant  colors,  robust  growth,  and  profuse  blooming  habits,  which  render 
them  worthy  of  a  place  in  every  considerable  collection.  The  flowers  have  somewhat  the  appear- 
ance of  Verbenas,  but  are  grown  on  shrub-like  plants,  and  are  of  the  most  delicate  shades  of 
orange,  sulphur,  creamy  white,  etc.,  which  colors  are  not  found  in  that  plant.  Also  interesting 
from  the  fact  of  their  changing  from  one  distinct  color  to  another  on  the  same  plant,  as  they  in- 
crease in  development  and  age.  In-  the  house  they  should  be  placed  in  a  light  warm  place ;  are 
particularly  useful  for  window  culture,  as  they  will  thrive  in  a  dryer  atmosphere  than  many 
plants.  By  proper  pruning,  plants  may  be  grown  of  handsome  shape.  Somewhat  difficult  to 
propagate. 

LAVENDULA  CRISTATA  (Greenhouse  Perennial,  33,  45-,  90°). 

A  neat,  compact,  pot  and  bedding  plant,  useful  in  baskets,  vases,  etc.,  and  of  the  easiest 
culture.  The  leaves  are  of  an  ashy  green,  an  inch  long,  nearly  round,  of  singular  notched  appear- 
ance, seeming  to  have  been  shaped  in  a  mould.  Propagates  from  cuttings. 

LARKSPUR.     See  Delphinium. 

LAURUSTINUS  (Greenhouse  Perennial,  33,  30,  90°). 

A  shrubby  perennial  for  pot  culture,  that  blooms  freely  only  in  winter  and  early  spring.  The 
flowers  are  pure  white,  produced  in  large  flattened  panicles,  and  are  universally  esteemed.  The 
foliage  is  deep  green,  smooth  and  of  pretty  form.  It  is  quite  hardy,  and  in  the  South  will  stand 
the  winters  with  slight  protection.  The  plant  always  assumes  a  handsome  form,  and  is  seldom 
troubled  with  insects.  In  summer  the  pots  should  be  moved  to  the  open  air  and  plunged. 

LEMON.     See  Orange  and  Lemon. 
LEMON  VERBENA.     See  Aloysia  Citriodora. 

LEPTOSIPHON   (Hardy  Annual). 

A  charming  class  of  free  blooming  annuals  of  the  easiest  culture  from  seed.  They  are  of 
bushy  growth  and  produce  an  abundance  of  small  flowers  of  remarkably  distinct  colors.  Sow 
the  seed  where  they  are  to  bloom  early  in  the  spring,  or  it  may  be  done  the  fall  previous. 

L.  Aureus  is  less  than  six  inches  high  and  spreads  to  the  width  of  one  foot.  Very  handsome 
as  an  edging  plant,  being  covered  with  a  profusion  of  exceedingly  pretty,  little  yellow  flowers 
with  dark  centre,  which  gives  them  a  peculiar  rich  appearance.  L.  Densifiorus  Albus,  one  foot 
high,  pure  white ;  very  useful  for  loose  bouquets.  There  is  also  a  rosy  lilac  variety  similar  to 
this,  but  being  of  less  desirable  color  is  not  so  greatly  esteemed.  L.  Hybridus,  French  hybrids 
of  pretty  appearance,  which  embrace  yellow,  orange,  rose,  purple  and  other  colors. 

LIBONIA  FLORIBUNDA  (Greenhouse  Perennial,  32,  45  or 50,  8f). 
A  neat  growing,  winter  blooming  plant  well  adapted  for  the  window  shelf  or  conservatory-. 
The  flowers,  which  are  about  an  inch  in  length,  are  scarlet  orange  at  the  base,  running  into 
deep  yellow  at  the  top,  somewhat  similar  to  the  Cigar  flower,  but  larger.  They  are  produced 
freely  under  ordinary  circumstances,  and  are  quite  certain  of  affording  pleasure  to  the  cultivator. 
The  plants  are  of  the  easiest  culture,  any  well  enriched  soil  suiting  them.  A  frost  among  plants 
of  sufficient  severity  to  injure  many,  would  leave  this  unharmed. 

LILIUM— LILY  (Hardy  Perennial  Bulb). 

The  Lilium  family,  including  the  numerous  superb  varieties  from  Japan,  are  eminently  valua- 
ble garden  plants,  and  no  collection  can  scarcely  be  so  limited  but  that  some  of  the  choicer  varie- 
ties at  least  should  be  included.  They  possess  many  desirable  qualities,  being,  with  an  exception 
or  two,  perfectly  hardy ;  easy  of  culture  in  any  dry  soil,  continuing  to  increase  in  strength  and 
beauty  for  many  years,  and,  above  all,  are  of  matchless  colors  in  the  several  varieties.  L.  Longi- 
flortim  is  the  principal  exception  to  their  being  entirely  hardy,  and  this  will  stand  the  winter 
well,  with  a  protection  of  strawy  manure  on  the  roots,  applied  late  in  the  fall  after  the  ground 
is  frozen.  Such  a  covering  is  desirable  for  all  the  varieties,  and  especially  newly  planted  ones. 
Lilies  may  be  planted  either  in  the  fall  months,  or  early  in  the  spring.  Avoid  applying  rank 
manure  to  the  soil,  which  is  apt  to  cause  a  diseased  condition  in  the  bulbs.  They  should  be  set 
deep,  the  top  of  the  bulbs  not  less  than  four  inches  below  the  surface.  This  is  essential,  in 
order  that  the  roots  which  support  the  flowering  shoot,  and  which  being  above  the  bulb,  may 
be  fully  protected  from  the  sun  in  summer.  They  should  be  allowed  to  remain  several  years 
without  resetting,  if  possible.  The  various  Lilies  can  also  be  cultivated  to  a  great  degree  of 
perfection  in  pots,  with  ordinary  care. 

L.  Atrosanguineum,  orange  red,  blotched  and  marbled.  L.  Auratum  (Golden  Banded 
Japan  Lily),  this  Lily  is  of  remarkable  size  and  magnificence,  usually  measuring  nearly  a  foot 
across.  It  is  delicately  fragrant,  and  is  composed  of  six  petals  of  ivory  whiteness,  each  thickly 
studded  with  crimson  spots,  and  having  a  golden  band  lengthwise  through  its  centre.  Will 
succeed  in  any  dry  deep  soil,  but  cannot  be  considered  quite  as  robust  as  most  other  varieties,  yet 


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is  not  very  delicate.  L.  Candidum,  the  ordinary  fragrant  White  Lily,  frequently  found  in  cultiva- 
tion. It  flowers  about  the  first  of  July  on  stems  three  or  four  feet  high,  and  a  mass  of  the  plants 
are  always  beheld  with  admiration.  There  is  a  double  flowering  variety  of  this  sort,  which, 
however,  will  not  compare  with  the  single  in  point  of  desirability.  L.  Lancifolium  Album, 
Roseutn,  and  Rubrum  are  introductions  from  Japan,  of  the  very  highest  merit  for  garden  culture. 
The  three  varieties  are  quite  similar  in  form,  but  vary  in  color — the  former  being  pure  white  of 
great  purity  and  beauty,  but  the  plant  is  a  little  delicate  in  character.  The  two  latter  varieties 
are  almost  alike  in  appearance,  being  of  ivory  white  ground,  spotted  in  rose  and  red,  and  quite 
fragrant.  They  are  very  hardy,  and  flower  in  August,  strong  plants  producing  numerous  flowers 
on  stalks  three  feet  high.  L.  Longiflorum,  snowy  white,  trumpet-shaped  flowers,  five  inches  in 
length.  Although  a  vigorous  variety,  it  should  be  treated  as  not  being  quite  hardy.  This 
variety  is  suitable  for  forcing  to  flower  in  winter  in  the  window  or  conservatory.  L.  Tigrinum 
(Tiger  Lily),  a  well  known  strong  growing  variety,  the  flowers  of  which  are  orange  spotted  with 
black.  A  new  variety  of  this  desirable  old  sort  has  recently  been  introduced,  having  excellent 
double  flowers.  L.  Washingtonianum,  a  recent  introduction  from  the  Far  West,  California  and 
Oregon.  It  produces  delicately  fragrant,  pendulous  flowers  which  are  pure  white  shaded  with 
lilac.  • 


Fig.  jo.     Pansies.     See  page  71. 

LILY  OF  THE  VALLEY— CONVALLARIA  MAJALLIS  (Hardy  Perennial). 
For  a  combination  of  elegance,  purity,  grace  and  fragrance  in  a  small  compass,  this  little 
flower  is  without  a  just  rival  in  the  garden,  and  it  has  been  esteemed  as  a  favorite  for  ages. 
The  flowers  are  pure  white,  bell-shaped,  and  less  than  one-third  of  an  inch  across.  They  droop 
gracefully,  each  on  its  own  curved  stem,  from  the  side  of  an  upright  stem  six,  and  upwards,  inches 
long,  supporting  a  dozen  or  more  of  the  flowers.  The  leaves,  which  spring  from  the  root,  are, 
in  themselves,  most  elegant,  being  large  and  smooth,  of  a  luxuriant  green,  and  furnish  an 
admirable  accompaniment  to  the  flowers  in  choice  floral  arrangements.  Flowers  may  be 


THE  HOME  FLORIST.  67 


forced  quite  readily  in  the  window  and  conservatory,  by  taking  up  and  potting  clumps  in  the 
fall,  and  after  subjecting  them  to  several  severe  freezes,  bringing  them  into  a  heat  of  forty-five  or 
fifty  degrees,  in  the  night  time,  and  giving  an  abundance  of  water.  In  our  great  cities  much 
attention  is  paid  to  forcing  this  plant  in  winter  as  the  flowers  are  eagerly  sought,  at  remunerative 
prices,  by  lovers  of  choice  flowers  all  during  the  winter  months.  The  plants  are  perfectly  hardy 
and  will  succeed  well  in  a  shady  place,  in  any  garden  soil,  flowering  in  May  and  June.  They 
increase  rapidly  by  their  slender  roots,  which  spread  to  a  considerable  distance.  Altogether 
may  be  considered  one  of  the  most  desirable  plants  in  cultivation. 

LOBELIA  (Greenhouse  and  Hardy  Perennials,  32,  45,  80° ). 

The  Lobelias  are  universally  admired,  and  the  drooping  varieties  are  used  to  an  extent, 
probably,  second  to  no  other  plant  in  cultivation,  for  planting  in  hanging  baskets  and  similar 
arrangements  for  decoration.  Their  graceful,  drooping  and  free  blooming  habit  renders  them 
especially  valuable  for  such  purposes,  as,  under  favorable  circumstances,  the  flowers  are  pro- 
duced by  hundreds  for  a  long  time.  They  are  equally  desirable  as  pot  plants,  forming  a  dense 
mass  of  drooping  foliage  and  flowers  over  the  edge  of  the  pot,  in  a  most  pleasing  manner. 
Among  our  most  suitable  plants  for  window  culture,  as  they  flower  almost  constantly  and 
equally  as  well  in  shady  places,  as  in  the  full  sun,  while  their  delight  in  an  abundance  of 
moisture  in  the  soil,  is  easily  afforded  them.  When  bedded  out  they  fl-  >wer  during  the  entire 
season,  so  profusely,  as  to  render  them  very  useful,  for  ribboning  or  massing,  where  low  growing 
plants  are  desired.  This  is  especially  the  case  in  a  wet  season,  or  if  the  soil  is  frequently 
watered.  Propagate  freely  from  cuttings. 

Z.  Cardinalis  (Cardinal  Flower),  a  splendid,  hardy  native  plant,  of  excellent  upright  habit; 
producing  spikes  of  brilliant  scarlet  flowers,  of  a  dazzling  hue ;  excellent  either  for  pot  culture  or 
for  bedding.  Z.  Erinus  grandis,  large  blue;  in  every  way  excellent  as  a  drooper  for  hanging 
baskets,  vases,  etc.,  or  for  pot  culture.  L.  Erinus  Paxtonia,  similar  to  the  preceding,  but  is  blue, 
with  a  white  eye.  Z.  Miss  Murphy,  a  neat  dwarf  grower ;  very  beautiful,  either  as  a  pot  plant 
or  for  planting  in  beds  and  borders.  It  grows  a  dense  globular  tuft,  six  inches  in  diameter,  and 
can  be  trimmed  to  any  desired  shape. 

LUPINUS— LUPINE   (Hardy  Annual). 

A  genus  of  annuals  for  the  garden  that  are  rather  showy,  and  flower  until  after  hard  frosts ; 
in  fact  the  beds  will  frequently  appear  at  their  best  late  in  October  and  November,  after  the 
larger  proportion  of  summer  flowers  are  past  their  usefulness.  Blue,  white  and  purple  are  the 
principal  colors,  being  distinct  in  some  varieties  and  intermixed  with  yellow  in  others.  The 
seed  should  be  sown  early  where  they  are  to  bloom. 

LYCHNIS   (Hardy  Perennial). 

A  useful  family  of  hardy  garden  and  pot  plants,  of  easy  culture  and  free  bloomers,  which 
are  throughout,  exceedingly  showy  of  flowers.  Some  of  the  varieties  are  easily  grown  from  seed, 
flowering  the  first  season  if  sown  early;  others  propagate  by  division  of  the  roots,  and  still 
others  with  difficulty  from  cuttings.  They  delight  in  a  light  rich  soil. 

Z.  Chalcedonica,  a  tall  kind,  growing  two  feet  in  height,  which  produces  in  the  variety  most 
generally  cultivated,  heads  of  intense  light  scarlet  flowers,  and  in  others  white  and  flesh-colored 
flowers  respectively.  May  be  propagated  from  seed  or  by  dividing  the  roots  early  in  the  spring 
of  alternate  years ;  succeeds  best  if  protected  during  winter.  Z.  Fimbriata,  double  pink 
flowers  on  stalks  a  foot  high ;  veiy  showy  and  desirable  and  perfectly  hardy.  Z.  Flos  Cuculi 
Flore  albo  plena  (Double  White  Lychnis),  a  valuable  summer  bloomer;  in  flower  from  the  middle 
of  June  until  October;  flowers  pure  white,  somewhat  resembling  a  Carnation;  very  highly 
esteemed  by  cultivators.  Should  be  protected  by  a  covering  of  straw  or  leaves  at  the  opening 
of  winter.  Z.  Flos  Cuculi  plena  (Ragged  Robin),  well  known  hardy  plants,  flowering  in  May. 
The  flowers  are  crimson  and  double.  Z.  Fulgens  is  a  hardy  species  with  scarlet  flowers;  one 
and  one-half  feet  high.  Z.  Haageana,  of  dwarfish  growth  about  one  foot  high,  readily  raised 
from  seed.  The  flowers  are  large,  single  and  embrace  white,  rose,  red  and  vermillion -colored 
varieties. 

LYCOPODIUM — SELAGINELLA  (Greenhouse  Perennial,  35,  55,  90°). 

Delicate  fine  foliage  plants  of  creeping  and  erect  habits,  that  delight  in  warm,  moist,  parti- 
ally shaded  situations,  being,  with  the  Ferns,  an  unequaled  class  of  plants  for  Fernery  culture. 
Properly  treated  they  are  a  delight  to  every  cultivator,  no  matter  what  may  be  the  extent  of  his 
or  her  collection. 

LYTHRUM  SALICARIA  (Hardy  Herbaceous  Perennial). 

A  hardy  garden  plant,  growing  to  the  height  of  three  feet  and  producing  long  attractive 
spikes  of  rosy-red  flowers  through  the  season.  Propagates  by  dividing  the  roots. 

MARIGOLD— TAGETES  (Half-Hardy  Annual). 

Well  known  free  flowering  annuals,  with  single  and  double,  also  quilled  varieties,  of  sulphur, 
orange,  brown  and  striped  flowers.  They  are  reared  with  the  greatest  ease  from  seed  sown 
either  in  heat  or  where  they  are  to  flower.  Although  there  are  some  exceedingly  rich  and  showy 
varieties,  which  are  attractive  wherever  employed,  yet  the  plants  will  never  be  ranked  among 


68  THE  HOME  FLORIST. 


the  highest  by  cultivators,  on  account  of  their  rather  distasteful  fragrance,  but  are  decidely  too 
beautiful  to  be  entirely  ignored  for  this  reason. 

TAGETES  SIGNATA  PUMILIA. — A  splendid  half-hardy  annual,  forming  a  dense  globular 
mass  from  one  to  one  and  one-half  feet  in  diameter,  and  producing  hundreds  of  bright  yellow 
and  orange  flowers  on  the  surface.  It  is  a  handsome  plant  for  the  garden,  and  as  easily  grown 
from  seed  as  are  the  common  Marigolds. 

MESEMBRYANTHEMUM,  INCLUDING  ICE  AND  DEW  PLANTS  (Greenhouse  Perennial, 

33,  43  to  60,  90°). 

A  genus  for  the  most  part  natives  of  the  Cape  of  Good  Hope.  There  are  many  varieties, 
but  the  several  I  will  here  notice  are  the  most  valuable  for  ordinary  cultivation*,  and  are  highly 
prized  wherever  introduced.  All  of  these  are  of  trailing  habit,  and  being  free  growers  they  are 
consequently  very  desirable  for  planting  in  baskets,  vases,  etc.  They  are  also  excellent  for  pot 
culture  in  the  window  or  conservatory,  and  very  handsome  if  bedded,  continuing  in  flower  dur- 
ing most  of  the  season,  and  growing  with  great  freedom  in  rich  ground. 

M.  Chrystallinium  (Ice  Plant),  this  variety  is  noted  for  the  peculiar  cold,  icy  appearance  the 
foliaga  presents,  the  stems  and  leaves  throughout  being  covered  with  crystal  frost-like  gems, 
which  render  the  plant  very  attractive.  Grown  from  seed,  and  should  be  treated  as  a  tender 
annual.  M.  Cordifolium  (Dew  Plant),  another  variety  possessing  the  remarkable  features  of 
the  Ice  Plant  to  a  slight  extent,  but,  aside  of  this,  is  a  stronger  and  more  handsome  grower  gen- 
erally, with  rich  deep  green  foliage,  and  is  covered  with  a  profusion  of  attractive  small  rosy-pink 
blossoms  almost  constantly.  This  is  one  of  the  handsomest,  drooping  plants  in  cultivation  for 
hinging  baskets,  vases,  etc.,  and  also  as  a  low,  trailing  bedding  plant.  Propagates  from  cut- 
ting?. M.  Cordifolium  variegatum,  similar  to  the  preceding,  but  in  addition,  the  foliage  is  varie- 
gated in  creamy  white  and  green,  which  renders  it  exceedingly  pretty  for  any  use  it  is  suited  to. 
M.  Grandiflorumy  a  variety  with  round-pointed  foliage,  producing  large  pink  flowers  several 
inches  in  diameter,  more  or  less  continually  from  early  spring  throughout  the  season. 

MIGNONETTE— RESEDA  (Hardy  Annual). 

A  deliciously  fragrant  flower,  two  well  known  to  require  any  special  description.  It  is  easily 
grown  from  seed,  which  may  be  sown  very  early  in  the  spring  where  they  are  to  flower,  and 
several  times  during  the  season  for  an  abundance  in  succession,  and  may  also  be  sown  late  in 
the  fall.  Every  garden  should  have  a  bed  for  cutting  from.  Some  pots  may  be  started  in  sum- 
mer for  winter  flowering  in  the  window  or  conservatory.  Do  not  transplant  well. 

MIMOSA   SENSITIVA— SENSITIVE  PLANT  (Tender  Annual). 

A  remarkable  annual  cultivated  for  the  curious  peculiarity  of  its  delicate  pinnate  leaves, 
which  suddenly  close  and  droop  if  touched  or  shaken.  They  open  and  regain  their  upright  po- 
sition in  the  course  of  an  hour  or  two,  without  the  least  injury  to  themselves  or  the  plant  for  the 
surprising  transition  through  which  they  have  passed.  The  plant  is  only  suitable  for  pot  culture, 
and  may  easily  b_e  reared  from  seed  by  sowing  in  a  warm  window  or  hot-bed. 

MIRABILIS   JALAPA— FOUR  O'CLOCK   FLOWER   (Half-Hardy  Annual  or  Perennial), 

A  very  ornamental  plant  of  good  habit ;  glossy  bright  foliage  with  fragrant  flowers,  which 
open  about  four  o'clock  in  the  afternoon,  hence  its  appropriate  common  name.  The  plant 
grows  to  several  feet  in  height,  and  blooms  profusely  after  mid-summer.  The  flowers  include 
various  colors,  such  as  different  shades  of  red,  red  striped  with  white,  red  and  yellow,  yellow, 
lilac  striped  with  white,  violet  and  white,  and  sport  into  many  attractive  variegations.  May  be 
reared  from  seed  planted  in  May  where  the  plants  are  desired,  or  the  roots  may  be  taken  up  in 
the  fall  and  preserved  like  Dahlias  during  winter.  The  plants  should  stand  two  feet  apart. 

M.  Jalapafolis  varicgata,  a  variety  of  the  above,  the  leaves  of  which  are  faintly  variegated 
or  marbled ;  several  colors  of  flowers.  AT.  Longiflora  alba  and  violacea,  with  long,  sweet  scented 
flowers,  in  the  former,  pure  white  with  purple  below,  and  in  the  latter,  violet. 

MORNING  GLORY.     See  Convolvulus. 
MUSK   PLANT.     See  description  of  Mimulus  Moschatus,  page  18. 

MYOSOTIS— FORGET-ME-NOT  (Half-Hardy  Perennial). 

An  old  and  well  known  genus  of  garden  plants,  growing  about  six  inches  high,  which  survive 
our  winters  with  protection.  They  bear  in  different  varieties  blue,  yellow  and  white  star-like 
flowers  with  bright  centers ;  very  small,  but  highly  esteemed  for  their  distinctness  and  perfection 
of  form ;  these  appear  in  little  clusters  during  the  greater  portion  of  the  season,  if  the  plants 
are  grown  in  moist  soil  in  a  somewhat  shaded  situation— a  condition  most  favorable  to  their 
growth.  Easily  raised  from  seed  sown  in  early  spring  or  in  August. 

MYRTUS  COMMUNIS — MYRTLE  (Greenhouse  Perennial,  32,  43  to  50,  90°). 
This,  the  true  Myrtle,  is  a  pretty  pot  plant  of  erect  shrubby  habit,  which  has  been  grown 
and  highly  esteemed  for  ages  very  remote.  At  the  present  day  it  is  valued  by  florists  for  its 
twigs  of  small  dark,  smooth  foliage,  which  are  a  useful  green  in  making  wedding  and  funeral 
bouquets  and  designs  of  white  flowers,  besides  being  slightly  fragrant.  The  plant  bears  small 
white  flowers  quite  freely,  and  is  of  the  easiest  culture  in  the  window  or  conservatory. 


THE  HOME  FLORIST. 


69 


MYRSYPHYLLUM  ASPARAGOIDES— SMILAX  (Greenhouse  Perennial,  jj,  45  to 55,  ?o° ). 

One  of  the  finest  climbing  plants  in  existence,  for  pot  culture,  hanging  baskets,  etc.,  being 
esteemed  for  the  exceeding  grace  and  delicacy  of  the  vine  and  its  beautiful  glossy  green  foliage. 

Smilax  has  become  conspicuous  among  plants 
cultivated  by  florists  for  foliage  alone,  and  large 
beds  are  now  devoted,  summer  and  winter,  to 
cultivating  a  supply.  Each  plant  is  provided 
with  a  twine  for  support,  which  extends  up- 
ward to  the  rafters  or  sash  bars  of  greenhouses, 
and  upon  which  the  numerous  shoots  twine. 
After  the  top  has  been  reached,  the  entire 
length  is  cut  away  for  use,  and  another  twine 
is  fixed,  which  in  turn  answers  for  a  support 
for  the  new  shoots  that  quickly  start  again 
from  the  root.  The  stems  of  foliage  are  usually 
sold  by  the  yard,  and  are  greatly  in  demand 
for  festooning,  and  for  cutting  into  short  lengths 
to  intermix  with  arrangements  of  choice  flowers. 
For  window  cultivation  the  plants  should  be 
trained  to  strings  or  trellis,  and  be  kept  near 
the  glass.  Smilax  is  closely  allied  to  common 
garden  Asparagus,  and  like  that  plant  will 
bear  frequent  cutting  back  to  the  roots.  After 
a  large  growth  has  been  obtained,  the  plant 
should  be  entirely  cut  away  as  soon  as  the 
leaves  are  inclined  to  turn  yellow ;  the  root 
should  then  be  given  a  rest  for  a  month  or 
two  by  withholding  water  almost  wholly,  after 
which  it  may  be  started  into  a  new  growth. 
Will  thrive  in  any  soil ;  is  propagated  from 
seed. 

NARCISSUS   (Hardy  Bulb). 

An  early  "spring  flowering  bulbous  family, 
which  embrace  numerous  forms  and  colors 
of  flowers,  including  the  well  known  Daffodil 
and  Jonquil.  The  flowers  appear  very  early, 
and  are  highly  ornamental.  Nearly  all  are 
hardy,  and  should  be  planted  in  the  autumn 

r..  r     •,      /  XT        j.7      77        A  ^  -J     ,  like  tne  Hyacinth,  etc.,  but  should  remain  in 

Fig.  si.    Smilax  ( Myrsyphyullum  Asparagoides ).  ^  Rrouncf   until    they   form    large    ciumps> 

when  they  may  be  divided  and  reset.  All  the  kinds  are  desirable,  and  some  are  unequaled  for 
pot  culture  in  winter  in  the  window  and  conservatory  (see  "  Culture  of  Hardy  Bulbs  for  Winter 
Decoration,"  page  2i).' 

DOUBLE  NARCISSUS  (Daffodil,  etc.),  include  besides  the  double  yellow  Daffodil,  varieties 
of  white  (Albo  pleno  odorata;  very  handsome),  light  yellow,  orange  and  other  colors,  all  of 
which  are  double,  and  some  deliciously  fragrant.  Very  hardy  .and  desirable  in  every  garden, 
also  useful  for  forcing. 

S.INGLE  NARCISSUS  are  hardy  and  of  great  beauty,  including  N.  Poeticus  (Poet's  Narcissus), 
a  snowy  white  variety,  in  which  the  projecting  cup  from  the  centre  is  of  cream  color,  delicately 
fringed  with  reddish  purple.  N.  Btilbocodium  (Hoop-Petticoat  Narcissus),  having  the  cup  two 
inches  long,  and  broad  at  the  brim.  N.  Odorus  (known  as  Great  Jonquil),  a  large  yellow  variety 
with  powerful  fragrance  ;  and  other  desirable  varieties. 

POLYANTHUS  NARCISSUS,  an  exceedingly  handsome  division,  but  not  sufficiently  hardy  in 
the  North  to  be  reliable  in  the  open  ground.  They  will  sometimes  succeed  if  planted  deep  in 
light,  dry  soil  and  heavily  protected  at  the  approach  of  winter.  It  is  in  pot  culture  in  winter, 
however,  either  in  the  window  or  conservatory,  that  this  species  can  be  employed  with  the 
greatest  advantage  by  cultivators,  and  for  this  purpose  nothing  can  be  more  satisfactory.  There 
are  numerous  varieties,  which  show  many  colors  and  shades,  from  purest  white  to  orange  red. 
The  flowers  appear  in  clusters,  numbering  from  six  to  upwards  of  a  dozen  on  each.  The  white 
flowers  of  this  division  have  yellow  cups,  and  the  yellow,  orange  cups.  There  is  also  a  double 
variety  which  is  very  fragrant. 

NARCISSUS  JONQUILLA  (Jonquil). — The  Jonquils  are  well  known  hardy  bulbs,  producing 
both  double  and  single  sweet  scented  flowers  which  are  very  attractive.  Plant  in  autumn  six 
inches  apart  and  cover  three  inches  deep.  They  do  not  flower  so  well  the  first  year  as  the 
second  and  third,  therefore  should  only  be  lifted  every  third  year. 

NASTURTIUM.     See  Tropaolum. 


70  THE  HOME  FLORIST. 

NEMOPHILA   (Hardy  Annual). 

A  genus  of  low  growing  annuals  which  afford  in  the  different  varieties  many  peculiar  and 
novel  colored  flowers,  such  as  white  with  black  spots,  white  and  purple,  white  blotched 
with  violet,  white  with  chocolate  centre,  black  edged  with  white,  rich  maroon  margined  white, 
bright  blue  with  white  centre,  blue  blotched  with  black,  and  so  forth.  While  interesting,  these 
plants  can  scarcely  be  styled  showy,  although  when  at  their  best  they  are  very  attractive. 
A  cool  partially  shaded  situation  suits  them  best.  The  seeds  should  be  sown  in  frames  early 
in  the  spring  or  late  the  fall  previous,  in  order  to  secure  strong  plants  by  hot  weather,  as 
young  plants  that  come  on  late,  never  do  so  well.  Transplant  to  five  or  six  inches  apart. 

NIREMBERGIA  GRANDIFLORA  (Greenhouse  Perennial,  33,  45,  90°). 
A  valuable  plant,  either  for  the  flower  garden,  or  in  baskets,  pots,  vases,  window  boxes,  etc. 
The  leaves  are  small  and  pointed,  flowers  pale  bluish  white,  one  inch  and  a  half  in  diameter 
and  salver  shaped.  They  are  borne  in  great  abundance  all  during  the  summer,  and  by  fall 
fifty  flowers  can,  almost  at  any  time,  be  counted  on  each  plant  that  is  growing  in  the  garden. 
They  may  be  lifted  in  October  without  wilting,  and  will  be  showy  for  a  long  time  in  the  window 
or  conservatory.  Any  soil  will  suit  them.  Propagate  from  cuttings  with  some  difficulty. 

OLEANDER— NERIUM   (Greenhouse  Perennial,  30,  45,  8f) 

A  well  known  genus  of  erect  growing,  evergreen  shrubs,  with  narrow  elongated  leathery 
leaves.  The  plants  are  well  adapted  for  culture  in  pots  and  boxes,  for  adorning  the  lawn,  or 
plant  collection  in  summer,  as  they  are  easily  managed  to  produce  an  abundance  of  bloom.  They 
naturally  delight  in  moist  soil,  and  during  their  flowering  season  should  at  all  times  be  well 
supplied  with  water.  After  they  have  done  blooming,  keep  rather  dry  at  the  roots  until  spring, 
storing  them  during  winter  in  any  cool  dry  place,  a  light  cellar  answering  very  well.  Early 
winter  is  the  most  suitable  time  for  pruning  the  plants,  which  may  be  done  quite  severely  to 
their  benefit.  The  young  shoots  can  be  cut  back  to  within  two  buds  of  the  old  wood.  In 
March  they  should  be  shifted  into  larger  pots  or  boxes  and  a  new  growth  encouraged  by  an 
increase  of  water.  Decayed  turfy  loam,  with  one-fourth  part  old  rotten  manure,  forms  an  excel- 
lent compost  for  them.  As  the  plants  advance  in  growth,  a  weekly  watering  of  liquid  manure, 
not  very  strong,  will  heighten  the  size  and  beauty  of  the  flowers  ;  during  their  approaching  sea- 
son of  bloom,  keep  a  sharp  look-out  for  scale  insects  on  the  leaves  and  bark  and  remove  them 
by  washing.  Scrubbing  affected  parts  with  tobacco  water  heated  to  100°  and  afterwards  with 
soap  and  water  will  completely  destroy  them  if  it  is  thoroughly  done.  The  Oleander  is  easily 
propagated  from  cuttings  of  the  young  growth  in  spring  and  summer.  A  favorite  and  time- 
honored  method  of  proceeding  with  this,  is  by  placing  the  cutting  in  a  bottle  of  water  suspended 
in  the  window  or  under  the  piazza;  this  means  is  quite  similar  to  the  saucer  system  of  propaga- 
tion described  on  page  16,  and  in  the  case  of  this  plant  is  perhaps  quite  as  good  a  one.  Imme- 
diately as  the  roots  appear,  the  cutting  should  be  potted  and  receive  an  abundance  of  water 
until  it  becomes  rooted  in  the  soil. 

Alba  Plena  is  a  semi-double  pure  white  variety,  not  so  commonly  cultivated  as  Splendens, 
but  nevertheless  very  desirable.  Splendens  i^  a  very  beautiful  variety  with  double,  rose  colored 
flowers,  which  render  it  highly  esteemed  by  all  cultivators.  Yellow,  a  single  pale  yellow 
variety,  which  is  useful  for  affording  a  greater  diversity  of  colors. 

ORANGE  AND  LEMON— CITRUS  (Greenhouse  Perennials,  32,  45  to  tf,  90°). 
These  well  known  fruits  of  commerce  both  belong  to  the  genus  Citrus,  and  are  quite  identi- 
cal in  many  respects.  The  genus  comprises  a  great  number  of  kinds  and  varieties,  some  of 
which  are  known  as  wild  and  others  as  cultivated,  the  former  possessing  little  value,  except  as 
stocks  upon  which  to  graft  the  better  sorts.  Both  the  Orange  and  Lemon  can  easily  be  culti- 
vated in  pots  in  the  North,  and  form  attractive  plants  when  in  health  with  their  rich  glossy 
leaves  which  are  also  pleasantly  fragrant  if  chafed.  Under  favorable  circumstances  they  may 
be  had  to  flower  and  fruit  in  the  window  or  conservatory,  and  if  the  stocks  be  grafted  with  the 
improved  varieties  the  fruit  produced  will  be  edible,  although  such  varieties  are  always  more 
difficult  to  cultivate  than  the  stronger  growing  plants  produced  from  seed.  The  flowers  of  the 
Orange  are  noted  for  their  sweetness  and  pure  white  color  in  some  of  the  kinds.  There  are 
beautiful  dwarf  growing  varieties  of' the  Orange,  which  are  known  as  the  Chinese  Lhvarf, 
that  are  very  suitable  for  cultivation,  :being  of  good  habit  and  producing  fruit  freely,  which, 
although  not  edible,  renders  the  plant  highly  ornamental.  These  can  be  perpetuated  by  cuttings, 
thus  allowing  of  their  purity  being  maintained  to  any  extent.  The  genus  loves  a  rich  soil,  and 
one  containing  a  fair  proportion  of  well  decayed  turf,  taken  up  from  a  loamy  soil,  will  suit  it  as 
well  as  any.  For  young  plants,  it  may  contain  a  portion  of  sand  until  they  arrive  at  a  fruiting 
age.  The  months  of  March,  and  also  August,  are  suitable  times  for  repotting  the  plants,  which 
may  also  be  pruned  at  the  same  time.  All  stunted  or  straggling  shoots  should  be  well  cut  back 
and  a  general  system  of  pruning  be  adopted  to  effect  a  well  shaped  head.  The  Lemon  especi- 
ally, is  greatly  inclined  to  irregularity  of  growth.  All  the  varieties  of  the  Citrus  tribe  are  shade- 
loving  plants,  and  should,  therefore,  be  protected  from  the  full  glare  of  sunshine  in  midsum- 
mer, but  throughout  winter  they  should  have  all  the  daylight  that  can  be  secured  for  them.  The 
foliage  and  branches  should  also  receive  an  occasional  cleansing  with  water  and  sponge,  and 
insects  of  no  kind  must  be  tolerated. 


THE  HOME  FLORIST. 


P/EONIA   (Hardy   Herbaceous  Perennial). 

A  well  known  genus  of  plants  noted  for  their  hardiness,  ease  of  culture,  vigorous  growth  in 
any  warden  soil,  and  for  the  wonderful  size  and  attractiveness  of  their  flowers,  which  in  many 
varieties  are  nearly  half  a  foot  in  diameter,  well  rounded  and  perfectly  double.  The  Herbace- 
ous Paonias  are  increased  by  dividing  the  roots.  This  may  be  done  once  every  few  years,  in 
September  or  October  or  in  the  spring,  if  it  be  done  very  early.  The  roots  should  be  taken  up 
whole,  cut  in  pieces,  each  with  at  least  one  bud,  and  be  reset.  Plant  them  in  rich  deep  soil, 
the  crown  or  bud  three  inches  below  the  surface. 

PANICUM  (Hardy  Herbaceous  and  Greenhouse  Perennials). 

PANICUM  PLICATUM. — This  is  a  desirable  hardy  grass  for  the  garden,  with  deep  green  foliage, 
striped  white,  and  occasionally  rose  ;  grows  in  clumps,  and  attains  a  height  of  about  two  feet  ; 
propagates  by  division.  Protect  in  winter. 

PANICUM  VARIEGATUM  (35,  30  to  60,  90°). — A  very  attractive  grass,  of  trailing  or  creeping 
habit,  excellent  for  hanging  baskets  or  pot  culture  in  the  greenhouse  or  window.  The  leaves  are 
willow  shaped,  and  distinctly  variegated  with  white,  rose  and  green.  The  plant  requires  a  warm 
place,  and  rather  delights  in  shade  ;  propagates  from  cuttings. 

PANSY — HEART'S-EASE,  VIOLA  TRICOLOR  (Hardy  Annual).  See  Fig.  50. 
I  term  the  Pansy  a  hardy  annual  because  the  best  way  to  manage  the  plants  is  to  treat 
them  as  such,  although  they  may  not  incorrectly  be  classed  among  biennials  and  perennials. 
The  Pansy  is  a  magnificent  genus  among  flowering  plants,  and  is  undoubtedly  as  generally 
esteemed  as  any  in  cultivation,  not  even  excepting  the  Rose.  It  is  among  the  easiest  to  rear 
from  the  seed ;  is  very  productive  of  flowers  for  a  long  time,  and  the  flowers  in  the  garden  are 
the  subjects  of  admiration  from  all  beholders.  Their  colors  range  from  white  to  jet  black 
through  the  various  shades  of  violet,  dark  and  light  blue,  reel,  bronze,  yellow,  purple,  etc., 
and  there  are  some  varieties  of  recent  introduction  which  are  most  beautifully  and  distinctly 
striped  and  blotched.  To  grow  the  Pansy  to  perfection  simply  requires  that  they  be  planted  in 
soil  of  high  fertility,  and  with  this  requisite  secured  there  is  no  need  of  hot-bed,  conservatory, 
or  any  other  appliance  to  have  an  abundance  of  flowers,  by  sowing  the  seed  in  the  fall.  They 
flower  most  freely,  and  the  bloom  is  finest  in  the  months  preceding  and  following  the  hottest 
and  dryest  part  of  summer,  although  there  will  be  no  cessation  of  bloom  during  this  period  if 
the  soil  is  ordinarily  retentive  of  moisture  and  well  enriched.  The  seeds  may  be  sown  in 
August  or  the  first  half  of  September.  If  the  seed-bed  is  shaded  with  whitewashed  sash  or  lath 
shutters — the  lath  an  inch  apart — they  will  germinate  more  readily.  After  they  have  made  their 
second  leaves  they  should  be  thinned  out  to  afford  a  chance  for  development,  or  they  may  be 
transplanted  to  several  inches  apart  in  any  rich  soil  for  wintering.  Young  Pansy  plants  are 
hardy,  and  all  the  protection  they  require  is  a  slight  scattering  of  long  strawy  manure  on  the 
beds,  after  the  ground  is  frozen,  which  will  prevent  any  injury  to  the  plants  from  thawing 
weather  in  winter ;  this  must  be  removed  early  in  the  spring.  For  final  flowering,  plant  six  to 
nine  inches  apart  in  the  highly  enriched  beds  above  alluded  to.  If  the  sowing  in  the  fall  was 
neglected,  the  seed  may  be  sown  from  February  to  April,  and  nearly  the  same  results  gained 
as  with  fall  sowing,  but  with  a  little  more  trouble.  Should  these  spring  grown  plants  be  too 
small  for  flowering  before  midsummer,  they  will  be  all  the  more  rewarding  in  the  fall  months 
for  not  having  flowered  profusely  in  the  spring. 

PASSION   FLOWER— PASSIFLORA  (Greenhouse  Perennial,  jj,  50,  go0). 
Climbing  plants  for  the  greenhouse  and  window  that  possess  a  pleasing  appearance,  both  in 
the  foliage,   form  of  growth  and  in  the  flowers.      They  withstand  the  dry  heat  of  dwellings 
better  than  the  average  of  plants ;  are  frequently  planted  permanently  in  the  conservatory  to 
climb  along  the  rafters,  for  which  purpose  they  are  well  suited  and  very  ornamental. 

PELARGONIUM — LADY  WASHINGTON  GERANIUM  (Greenhouse  Perennial,  33,  45  to 55,  90°). 
A  distinct  division  of  the  Geranium  family  (popularly  speaking,  for,  in  a  botanical  sense,  the 
Geraniums  are  Pelargoniums),  which  are  only  suitable  for  pot  culture,  producing  flowers  of  an 
extremely  high  rank  of  beauty  and  color.  The  plant  is  in  appearance  somewhat  similar  to  the 
common  Horseshoe  or  Scarlet  Geranium,  but  the  flowers,  although  of  similar  form,  are  much 
larger,  averaging  about  two  inches  across,  and  are  of  the  richest  colors,  and  shades  of  colors, 
imaginable,  ranging  from  purest  white,  through  carmine,  crimson,  rosy  pink,  vermillion,  to  the 
darkest  maroon,  and  through  the  intervening  shades  for  the  ground  work,  and  upon  these  the 
most  exquisite  veinings  and  delicate  shadings,  all  on  petals  of  the  finest  satin-like  texture,  yet, 
of  such  a  thickness  that  but  the  deepest  markings  run  through  them,  the  under  side  being  gener- 
ally a  tinted  white,  or  a  lighter  and  uniform  shade  of  the  predominating  color  of  the  flower. 
The  Pelargonium  is  not  so  valuable  a  window  plant  as  some  of  the  Geraniums,  for,  although  of 
free,  healthy  growth,  under  any  circumstances,  it  is  here  inclined  to  be  a  shy  bloomer,  but,  as 
a  spring  and  early  summer  flowering  plant  in  the  conservatory,  all  the  varieties  possess  the 
greatest  value,  and  bloom  with  exceeding  freedom.  No  conservatory  can  be  considered  well 
stocked  without  some  of  these  plants  in  the  collection.  After  the  plants  have  flowered  in 
summer  they  should  be  given  a  rest  of  two  months  by  almost  entirely  withholding  water 
from  them.  At  the  end  of  this  time  they  should  be  cut  back  and  be  repotted  into  fresh 


7  2  THE  HOME  FLORIST. 


soil  of  a  fertile  nature,  first  soaking  the  ball  of  old  earth  in  which  they  have  been  growing,  and 
removing  all  that  can  be  taken  off,  without  mutilating  the  roots.  Water  may  be  freely  applied 
from  this  time  on.  During  winter  the  plants  should  be  placed  in  a  light  situation,  and  g^ven 
sufficient  space  to  enable  the  air  and  light  to  reach  all  the  foliage.  Due  attention  should 
be  paid  to  pinching  back  any  strong  growing  shoots,  and  neat  stakes  should  be  provided. 
They  propagate  readily  from  cuttings.  The  end  shoots  obtained  in  pruning  back  plants  after 
their  annual  rest,  are  most  suitable  for  striking,  and  strong  plants  can  be  grown  from  these  by 
spring,  if  they  are  repotted  as  required  during  winter. 

Arcadian  Prince,  deep  glowing  rosy  crimson,  slightly  penciled  with  maroon ;  an  excellent 
grower  and  free  bloomer.  Augusta  Odier,  an  exceedingly  rich,  carmine- veined  variety.  Beads- 
man, pink,  maroon  spots.  B:lle  Blonde,  white,  edged  and  penciled  with  carmine,  and  spotted 
with  maroon.  Bianca,  shell  tinted  pink,  with  dark  spots  running  through  crimson  to  pink,  on 
two  petals.  Captivation,  pure  white,  with  striking  spots  of  dark  maroon.  Diadematum,  bright 
crimson  pink,  penciled  with  maroon.  Dr.  Andre,  blush  pink  ground,  the  margins  of  the  petals 
elegantly  fringed.  Gen.  Taylor,  a  free  flowering  carmine  pink  variety,  slightly  marked  with 
maroon  on  two  petals;  a  superb  variety.  Glorie  de  Belleview,  light,  veined  crimson,  with  black- 
ish maroon  spots;  fine.  James  Odier,  upper  petals  white,  under  shell-tinted  with  maroon 
markings.  Lavina,  pure  white,  with  the  lower  petals  distinctly  marked  with  maroon  and  edged 
with  crimson.  Marksman,  white  ground,  profusely  marked  and  stained  with  purplish  crimson. 
Madella  D'Or,  darkest  crimson,  with  darker  spots  and  light  center ;  exceedingly  rich.  Mazinella, 
pink,  crimson  and  maroon.  Nor  ma,  light  lilac  on  white,  with  dark  spots.  Sir  Casper,  light 
pink,  blotched  with  maroon  and  crimson.  White  Lady,  a  pure  white  variety,  the  flowers  of 
which,  although  freely  produced,  are  rather  below  the  average  in  size. 


Fig.  52.     Double  Neapolitan  Violets.     See  page  81. 
PENSTEMON   (Greenhouse  Perennial,  30,  43,  75°). 

A  class  of  nearly  hardy  plants  suitable  for  the  flower  garden  and  pot  culture.  They  bloom 
for  a  long  time.  The  flowers  are  produced  in  spikes  of  Foxglove-like  form,  very  nicely  shaded 
and  mottled.  Can  be  taken  up  in  the  fall  and  preserved  in  a  cold-pit  or  the  cool  end  of  a  con- 
servatory or  in  the  cellar  during  winter.  Propagate  readily  from  cuttings. 

PETUNIA  (Half-Hardy  Annual  or  Greenhouse  Perennial,  33,  jo,  Sj°). 
For  out-door  decoration  in  summer  there  are  few  plants  that  excel  this  class.  They 
commence  to  flower  early  and  continue  a  mass  of  bloom  the  whole  summer  and  until  after 
frosts.  There  are  both  double  and  single  varieties,  the  former  usually  being  increased  from  cut- 
tings and  treated  as  greenhouse  perennials  in  winter,  and  the  latter  as  annuals,  raising  them 
from  seed  each  spring,  although  the  best  of  these  can  also  be  perpetuated  very  profitably  from 
cuttings,  thus  insuring  the  purity  of  any  desirable  strain.  Double  varieties  can  also  be  raised 


THE  HOME  FLORIST. 


73 


from  seed,  but  only  a  small  percentage  of  even  the  most  carefully  saved  seed  can  be  de- 
pended upon  to  come  double.  Aside  from  the  great  value  of  the  entire  family  as  bedding 
plants,  the  double  varieties  especially  are  very  satisfactory  if  grown  in  rich  soil  in  pots,  and  the 
stronger  growing  single  varieties  are  excellent  for  planting  in  hanging  baskets  and  vases  for  trail- 
ing over  the  edges.  For  this  purpose  the  seed  should  be  sown  as  early  as  March.  For  ordi- 
nary summer  decoration  the  seed  may  be  sown  in  a  hot-bed,  cold-frame  or  prepared  seed-bed, 
transplanting  the  seedling  plants  eighteen  inches  apart  in  the  garden,  in  May,  or  sowings  may 
be  made  where  the  plants  are  desired,  which  will  do  quite  as  well,  excepting  that  these  will  not 
flower  within  several  weeks  as  early  as  the  others. 

The  most  desirable  varieties  among  the  double  Petunias  are  :  Beauty,  rich  crimson  and  white 
striped ;  sometimes  sports.  Cleopatra,  white,  blotched  with  violet  crimson.  Delicata,  laven- 
der and  blush.  Afauffn's  Blush,  light  rosy  pink  ;  very  beautiful,  and  a  free  bloomer.  Queen  of 
Whites,  pure  white ;  very  double ;  somewhat  resembling  a  white  Carnation,  but  larger.  Wm. 
White,  crimson  and  white.  Wm.  Heines,  dark  violet  crimson.  Among  the  single  varieties 
which  may  be  reared  from  seed,  the  following  are  prominent  for  their  superiority:  Countess 
of  E 'lies more,  rosy  carmine,  with  white  throat;  an  exceedingly  desirable  variety,  coming  true 
from  seed.  In  the  large  flowering  (Grandiflora)  section:  Green  Margined,  crimson  color,  white 
throat,  green  edge.  Inimitable,  purplish  red,  spotted  and  margined  with  white.  Kermesina, 
large  crimson.  Maculata,  purple  and  crimson,  spotted  white.  Venosa,  beautiful  veined  variety. 


53-     Phlox  Drummondii. 


PHLOX   (Half-  Hardy  Annuals  and  Hardy  Perennials). 

This  family,  in  its  several  divisions,  embraces  many  varieties  of  garden  plants  of  the  highest 
value  to  the  amateur  or  commercial  florist.  Throughout  they  are  of  fine  habit  and  vigorous 
growth,  producing  flowers  of  very  attractive  colors  in  great  profusion,  the  plants  thriving  in 
any  garden  soil,  and  with  the  most  ordinary  attention.  On  account  of  these  desirable  qualities 
they  are  recommendable  to  cultivators  of  little  experience,  as  there  is  scarcely  any  danger  of 
failure  to  realize  successful  results  with  their  cultivation. 

PHLOX  DRUMMONDII.  —  Among  seed-grown  annuals  for  the  garden  the  Phlox  Drummondii 
stands  without  a  rival  for  brilliancy  of  colors  and  continual  display.  It  is  to  this  class,  what  the 
Verbena  and  Geranium  are  to  tender  greenhouse  bedding  plants,  and  it  is  even  a  most  formida- 
ble rival  of  these  distinct  and  brilliant  flowering  plants,  when  effect  is  taken  into  consideration; 
while  with  calculating  on  the  small  outlay  necessary  to  procure  an  abundance  of  seed,  the  readi- 
ness with  which  it  is  cultivated  from  seed,  and  its  general  attractiveness,  either  in  ordinary  beds 
or  in  ribbons  and  masses,  it  is  deserving  of  attention  from  cultivators  generally  as  a  showy 
bedding  plant  of  the  greatest  importance,  and  also  as  one  of  the  best  for  cut  flowers,  the  flowers 
being  produced  on  conveniently  long  stems.  The  different  varieties  afford  many  distinct  and 
striking  colors,  such  as  pure  white,  white  with  purple  eye,  deep  blood  purple,  brilliant  scarlet, 
beautiful  rose  color,  rose  with  white  eye,  dark  violet  with  white  eye,  red  with  white  eye,  crimson 
striped  with  white,  slate  color,  and  many  others,  all  of  which  come  true  to  color  from  seed. 


74  THE  HOME  FLORIST. 


The  seed  may  be  sown  either  in  the  hot-bed,  cold-frame  or  open  ground.  The  plants  should 
stand  from  nine  to  twelve  inches  apart.  They  commence  flowering  early  and  continue  to 
produce  an  abundance  of  bloom  until  towards  winter,  especially  if  not  allowed  to  seed. 

HARDY  UPRIGHT  PHLOXES. — These  are  hardy  herbaceous  perennials,  and  among  the  most 
useful  and  showy  in  cultivation.  The  flowers  are  produced  in  great  profusion,  on  upright  stems 
from  one  to  three  feet  high,  in  the  summer  and  fall  months.  The  plants  are  perfectly  hardy,  and 
will  thrive  in  any  garden  soil.  After  they  have  attained  some  size,  the  roots  may  be  taken  up 
in  the  fall  or  spring,  be  divided  and  reset.  The  following  is  a  desirable  list  of  varieties : 

Alexandriena  Varennes,  deep  rose.  Delecata,  rich  dark  purplish  crimson.  Gloria  de  Nieully, 
brilliant  salmon  red.  Harlequin,  brilliant  crimson,  somewhat  mottled.  Hector  Rouillard,  dis- 
tinctly striped  crimson  and  rose.  L.  Avenir,  salmon  and  red ;  very  fine.  Mad.  Amezi  Pothier, 
pink  with  deep  red  eye.  Mad.  Bcllvenuc,  deep  rose,  crimson  center.  Mad.  Bernian,  rosy  pur- 
ple, crimson  eye.  Mad.  de  Chambrey,  large  rosy  purple,  distinct  dark  eye.  Mad.  de  Wendall, 
almost  pure  white,  crimson  eye.  Mad.  Masson,  crimson,  petals  edged  and  striped  with  purplish 
rose.  Mad.  Pepin,  rose,  with  salmon  center  and  crimson  eye;  distinct.  Mad.  Van  Houtte, 
light  pink  with  bright  crimson  eye.  Mons.  Duffe,  brilliant  crimson.  Napoleon,  pure  white  dis- 
tinctly striped  with  purple.  Roi  des  Roses,  rosy  purple  with  bright  crimson  eye.  Startler, 
striped  rose.  Venus,  blush  with  carmine  eye.  Victor  Hugo,  striking  purplish  crimson. 

HARDY  PROCUMBENT  PHLOXES  (Moss  Pink). — These  differ  from  the  other  sections  of  the 
family,  in  being  of  creeping  habit,  with  small  pointed  leaves.  They  produce  their  pretty  flowers 
in  May,  at  which  time  the  prostrate  plants  are  literally  covered  with  bloom.  Of  the  easiest  cul- 
ture. Propagate  by  division. 

P.  Setacea,  pink  flowers  in  immense  numbers.  P.  Setacea  alba,  pure  white,  similar  in  form 
and  growth  to  the  preceding  variety,  and  very  attractive. 

PI  LEA — ARTILLERY   PLANT  (Greenhouse  Perennial,  35,  30,  80°). 

Unique  plants,  with  graceful  frond-like  leaves,  which,  when  in  flower,  produce  a  snapping 
sound  if  water  is  thrown  upon  them.  They  are  useful  either  as  pot  plants  or  for  planting  in 
baskets,  vases,  Ferneries,  etc.,  being  in  either  case  easy  to  manage.  Propagate  from  cuttings. 

PINK,  GARDEN    OR   FLORIST'S— (Hardy  Perennial). 

A  class  of  hardy  plants  for  the  garden  that  pertain  to  the  Dianthus  family.  They  much 
resemble  Carnations,  but  are  more  dwarf.  The  flowers  are  perfectly  double,  clove  scented,  and 
embrace  numerous  colors  in  the  different  varieties,  including  pure  white,  carmine,  pink,  etc., 
in  some  of  which  striking  deep  rose,  maroon,  deep  carmine  and  other  colors  appear  in  the  center 
of  the  flower  or  distinctly  on  each  petal.  Some  are  also  beautifully  fringed.  The  plants  may 
be  propagated  by  cuttings  or  by  layers,  and  will  thrive  in  any  garden  soil. 

PURE  WHITE  HARDY  PINKS. — Sarah  Howard,  a  fragrant,  double,  pure  white,  free  flowering 
summer  and  fall  Pink,  not  entirely  hardy,  but  with  slight  protection,  very  desirable ;  exceedingly 
valuable  for  bouquet  making.  Alba  Jimbriata,  a  double  white  early  spring  flowering  sort,  of 
good  form  and  substance,  being  fringed  and  very  fragrant ;  grown  extensively  by  florists  for  bou- 
quet flowers ;  perfectly  hardy  and  unequaled  for  forcing  in  pots  in  winter,  for  which  purpose  any 
of  the  ordinary  plants  from  the  garden  may  be  taken  up  and  potted  in  the  fall  without  previous 
treatment.  For  forcing,  32,  50,  80°. 

PLUMBAGO  CAPENSIS   (Greenhouse  Perennial,  35,  jo,  85°). 

A  shrubby  greenhouse  pot  plant,  also  suitable  for  window  culture,  producing  large  trusses  of 
azure  blue  flowers,  during  fall  and  winter  months.  It  flowers  freely  in  plants  six  inches  high, 
and  as  the  colors  of  its  flowers  is  rare,  it  is  a  desirable  addition  to  any  collection. 

POINSETTIA  PULCHERRIMA  (Greenhouse  Perennial,  35,  55  to  65,  zoo0). 
A  tropical  plant  of  remarkable  growth,  and  possessed  of  gorgeous  beauty  when  in  bloom. 
The  flower,  or  rather  the  bracts  or  leaves  that  surround  the  flower  proper,  in  well  grown  speci- 
mens attain  a  diameter  of  one  foot,  and  of  the  most  dazzling  scarlet.  The  plants  require  a 
warm  place  to  develop  the  flower  heads,  which  appear  in  December  and  January,  but  with  this 
requirement  supplied,  they  are  of  the  easiest  culture.  Sandy  soil  suits  them  best.  After  their 
flowering  season  they  should  receive  only  enough  water  to  prevent  the  soil  from  becoming  pow- 
der dry,  and  the  plants  may  be  set  under  the  staging  until  spring  when  they  may  be  repotted, 
plunging  the  pots  in  soil  in  the  open  ground,  until  the  time  of  returning  them  under  glass, 
which  should  be  in  September. 

POLYANTHUS— PRIMULA  ELATIOR,  CUPS  AND  SAUCERS  (Hardy  Perennial). 
Pretty,  early  flowering,  hardy  garden  plants  that  are  found  in  many  collections.  They 
flower  mostly  in  May.  The  flowers  appear  in  trusses  on  erect  stems,  and  embrace  various 
colors,  including  brown  with  yellow  eye  and  delicate  yellow  edge,  rich  brown,  almost  black, 
either  shaded  or  plain,  various  cortibinations  of  crimson,  yellow,  sulphur,  etc.  May  be  increased 
by  division,  and  also  from  seed.  They  delight  in  a  light  loamy  soil  and  are  benefited  by  a 
covering  of  leaves  or  other  material  through  winter. 

POMEGRANATE,    DWARF   (Almost -Hardy,  Shrubby- Perennial'). 
The  fruit  bearing  Pomegranate  is  a  native  of  Asia,  and  is: much.; cultivated. in  warm  coun- 


THE  HOME  FLORIST.  75 


tries.  The  dwarf,  flowering  kind  is  valuable  for  pot  culture,  bearing  brilliant  orange  scarlet 
flowers  of  leathery  substance.  It  is  a  deciduous  plant,  and  with  pot  culture  may  be  stored  in 
a  cellar,  cold- pit,  or  under  the  staging  in  the  conservatory  during  winter,  and  until  April,  when 
it  should  be  brought  to  light  and  started  into  growth.  In  the  Southern  States  the  dwarf  Pome- 
granate is  hardy  with  slight  protection. 

POPPY— PAPAVER   (Hardy  Annuals  and  Hardy  Perennials). 

Showy  and  well  known  border  flowers,  apt  to  be  despised  through  ignorance  of  the  really 
good  qualities  of  improved  varieties.  The  annual  varieties  are  readily  grown  from  seed,  which 
should  be  sown  where  the  plants  are  wanted.  Among  the  perennial  sorts  P.  Bracteattim  is  a 
scarlet  variety.  P.  Croceum*  orange ;  an  early  and  free  bloomer.  P.  Orientale  (Oriental 
Poppy),  large,  orange  red;  flowering  the  fore  part  of  summer.  These  may  also  be  reared 
from  seed  or  by  division. 

PORTULACA   (Half-Hardy  Annual). 

Exceedingly  brilliant  and  popular  low  growing  annuals  of  the  easiest  culture.  There  are 
both  double  and  single  varieties,  including  white,  rose,  golden,  orange^  crimson,  scarlet,  rosy 
purple  and  other  colors,  besides  beautifully  striped  varieties.  The  Double  Portulacas  are  of 
remarkable  beauty,  being  as  double  and  as  perfect  as  a  fine  Rose.  All  luxuriate  in  an  exposed 
sunny  situation,  and  produce  throughout  the  summer  their  distinct  and  sliowy  flowers  in  the 
greatest  profusion,  on  which  account  they  possess  very  high  value  for  planting  in  masses  or  in 
ribbon  lines,  as  well  as  for  other  purposes  in  adorning  the  grounds  and  garden.  A  bed  of  either 
the  double  or  single  varieties,  but  especially  of  the  former,  will  form  as  attractive  an  object  with 
their  brilliant  colors  as  can  be  introduced,  particularly  in  bright  sunny  weather.  Are  grown 
with  readiness  from  seed,  which  may  be  sown  early  in  the  open  ground,  or  in  the  hot-bed,  or 
pots  in  the  window,  and  afterwards  setting  the  young  seedlings  about  eight  inches  apart  in  the 
garden.  The  seeds  saved  from  double  flowers  will  not  all  produce  perfectly  double  flowers, 
although  a  large  enough  percentage  may  be  depended  upon  to  be  satisfactory. 

POTENTILLA— CINQUE  FOIL  (Hardy  Perennial). 

An  extensive  genus,  mostly  natives  of  the  temperate  zones,  some  of  which  are  worthy  of  cul- 
tivation, while  many  are  ranked  among  weeds.  The  foliage  of  nearly  all  the  varieties  very 
closely  resembles  that  of  the  strawberry  plant.  There  are  in  cultivation  varieties  with  dark 
crimson,  orange  scarlet,  blood  red,  blush  and  salmon,  red  shaded  with  maroon,  colored  flowers, 
which,  although  not  as  showy  as  those  of  some  other  plants,  they  possess  a  pleasing  beauty 
and  are  produced  with  little  intermission  through  the  entire  season.  Succeed  in  any  garden 
soil,  and  are  increased  either  from  seed  or  by  dividing  the  roots. 

PRIMROSE — PRIMULA  (Greenhouse  Perennial,  jj,  jo,  8f). 

This  is  a  most  valuable  class  of  plants  for  pot  culture,  either  in  the  conservatory  or  window. 
They  grow  less  than  one  foot  in  height  and  produce  an  immense  number  of  the  purest  white  and 
other  colored  flowers  during  fall,  winter  and  spring.  There  is  a  Double  White  variety,  which 
is  extensively  grown  for  winter  flowers  by  florists.  The  flowers  are  an  inch  across,  perfectly 
double,  and  of  the  purest  white.  This  variety  is  increased  with  some  difficulty  by  division  and 
from  cuttings  in  the  spring;  is  rather  impatient  of  ill-treatment,  and  will  not  do  as  well  in  the 
window  as  the  single  varieties.  It  requires  a  fine,  rich  soil,  containing  considerable  sand,  and 
does  not  bear  to  be  crowded  closely  among  other  plants.  In  the  summer  it  should  be  grown 
under  glass,  heavily  coated  with  a  wash  of  quick -lime  and  water.  During  winter  the  glass 
should  also  be  kept  slightly  whitened,  and  as  uniform  a  temperature  as  possible  be  maintained. 
Water  may  be  freely  applied,  but  sprinkling  the  leaves  and  flower-stems  should  be  avoided  as 
much  as  possible.  The  Single  varieties  are  reared  from  seed,  which  is  sown  in  summer,  usually. 
These  include  flowers  of  white,  rose,  and  crimson  colors,  and  also  some  with  finely  fimbriated 
edges.  The  directions  given  for  managing  the  double  Primrose  are  applicable  to  the  single 
varieties. 

PYRETHRUM.     See  Feverfew. 

RANUNCULUS  (Hardy  Perennials). 

RANUNCULUS  ACRIS  FLORE  PLENO  (Butter  Cup,  Crowfoot). — A  hardy  herbaceous  peren- 
nial that  is  quite  common.  The  flowers  are  double,  of  pretty,  glossy  yellow  color,  produced  on 
upright  stems,  two  feet  high,  in  June  and  July.  Will  thrive  in  any  soil,  and  when  once  intro- 
duced in  a  garden,  ,there  is  no  difficulty  in  keeping  it,  as  it  grows  freely  and  propagates  by  divi- 
sion very  easily. 

RANUNCULUS  AsiATi.cus.  is  a  section  which  affords  some  of  the  most  splendid  flowers  in 
cultivation,  but,  unfortunately,  our  winters  are  too  severe  to  rear  them,  without  great  difficulty, 
in  the  open  ground,  on  which  account  their  culture  is  generally  precluded,  except  in  the  window 
and  conservatory;  where  they  may  be  grown  by  observing  the  directions  given  for  cultivating 
the  Hyacinth  and  other  Hardy  Bulbs,  etc.,  on  page  21. 

RHODANTHE  (Half-Hardy  Annual). 

A  beautiful,  though  somewhat  delicate,  genus  of  Everlasting  flowers,  grown  from  seed,  which 
should  be  started  in  the  house. 


76 


THE  HOME  FLORIST. 


R.  atrosanguinea  is  a  distinct  variety,  of  dwarfish,  branching  habit,  the  flowers  of  which  a*e 
deep  purple  and  violet,  with  magenta  ray  scales.  R.  maculata,  rosy  purple,  with  yellow  disc ; 
of  quite  strong  growth  and  large  flowers.  R.  maculata  alba,  similar  to  the  preceding,  except 
that  the  flowers  are  pure  white,  with  yellow  disc.  This  is  the  finest,  pure  white,  everlasting 
in  cultivation.  R.  Manglesii,  bright  rosy  color,  and  silvery  calyx;  rather  delicate  for  the  open' 
ground,  but  succeeds  finely  as  a  pot  plant. 


Fig.  54.      Verbenas.     See  page  81. 

RICHARDIA  ALBA  MACULATA  (Tender  Bulb). 

A  plant  belonging  to  the  same  order  as  the  Calla,  with  beautifully  spotted  leaves.  It 
flowers  during  the  summer  months,  either  in  pots  or  if  planted  out  in  the  open  border.  The 
flowers  are  shaped  like  those  of  the  Calla,  and  are  -white,  shaded  with  violet  inside.  It  is  a 
deciduous  plant,  to  be  kept  dry  in  winter  in  the  cellar  or  under  the  bench  of  the  conservatory, 
and  started  in  spring  like  a  Dahlia. 

RICIN US— CASTOR  OIL  BEAN  (Half-Hardy  Annual). 

A  genus  of  ornamental  seed-grown  plants  of  stately  growth,  and  with  picturesque  foliage, 
that  are  highly  useful  for  planting,  either  singly  or  in  groups,  about  the  lawn  or  garden,  or  with 
other  strong  growing  plants,  possessing  striking  foliage  or  flowers,  such  as  Cannas,  Caladiums, 
Japanese  Striped  Maize,  Hollyhocks,  Helianthus,  etc.  The  seeds  may  be  planted  in  the  open 
ground  in  May,  or  may  be  started  a  month  earlier  in  pots,  in  the  hot -bed  or  window,  thus  secur- 
ing showy  plants  some  weeks  earlier.  Young  plants  will  not  bear  much  moisture  or  cold. 

ROSE.     See  pages  25  to  33. 


THE  HOME  FLORIST.  77 


ROSEMARY — ROSEMARIANUS  OFFICINALIS  (Greenhouse  Perennial,  jj,  451055,  85°). 
vA  common  sweet  scented  plant,  of  erect  habit,  much  cultivated  as  a  house  plant.     It  thrives 
with  the  most  ordinary  care,  and  is  generally  prized  by  all  who  cultivate  it. 

<    SALPIGLOSSIS  (Half-Hardy  Annual). 

Beautiful  annuals  for  the  garden,  with  funnel-shaped  flowers,  richly  colored,  delicately  veined 
and  marbled.  On  close  examination  the  blossofms  Vill  be*  found  to  have  a  rich,  velvety  softness 
seldom  seen  in  other* flowers.  But  for  the  fact  that  tthe  plants  are  of  somewhat  slender  and 
straggling  growth,  they  would  be  exceedingly  desirable.  Seed  may  be  sown  in  the  open  border. 
The  plants  should  stand  about  eight  inches  apart.  ^  ,  .  v  . 

SALVIA — SAGE  (Greenhouse  Perennial,  33,  45  to  50,  80°). 

A  family  of  late  summer  flowering  plants,  suitable  for  the  garden.  They  are  of  robust 
growth,  easily  cultivated  in  any  soil,  and  form  very  attractive  plants  when  in  bloom.  Easily 
increased  from  cuttings,  and  some  varieties  from  seed ;  the  plants  may  be  lifted  in  the  fall  and 
kept  in  a  growing  condition,  either  in  a  light  cellar,  the  window  or  conservatory,  until  Febru- 
ary, when  new  stock  may  be  propagated  for  spring  planting. 

'  S.  Grahami  Purpurea,  purplish  crimson.  6V  Ojficinalis  Tricolor,  a  beautiful  variegated 
variety  of  the  common  Sage ;  foliage  blotched  with  white,  green  and  sometimes  pink ;  dwarf, 
bushy  habit ;  fine  for  bedding.  -5".  Patens,  flowers  of  the  richest  and  most  distinct  blue ;  excel- 
lent for  pot  culture.  S.  Splendent,  a  superb  fall  flowering  bedding  plant,  growing  to  a  height  of 
two  to  three  feet,  and  completely  covered  with  spikes  of  dazzling  scarlet  flowers,  causing  it  while 
in  bloom  to  be  the  most  attractive  plant  in  the  garden.  A  sharp  lookout  should  be  kept  for  the 
Green-fly  on  this  plant,  in  the  winter,  as  it  is  perhaps  more  liable  to  attacks  from  this  insect  than 
any  other  plant  in  cultivation.  S.  Splendens  alba,  a  pure  white  variety,  similar  in  form  of  growth 
and  flowers  to  the  preceding.  An  excellent  plant  for  decorating  the  conservatory  and  window  in 
autumn,  if  grown  in  a  good  sized  pot. 

SANCHEZIA  NOBILIS  VARIEGATA  (Greenhouse  Perennial,  35,  50  to  90°). 
A  highly  ornamental  plant  of  good  habit  and  vigorous  growth,  producing  large  leaves  of 
intense  green,  the  veins  of  which  are  broadly  margined  with  golden  yellowr.     As  a  handsome, 
variegated,  foliage  plant  of  easy  culture  in  pots,  it  is  very  desirable,  particularly  in  a  warm  con- 
servatory.    A  light,  rich  soil  suits  it  the  best. 

SCABIOSA— MOURNING  BRIDE  (Half-Hardy  Annual). 

A  garden  plant  of  considerable  value,  grown  from  seed.  There  are  tall  and  dwarf  kinds,  the 
former  attaining  a  height  of  two  feet ;  the  dwarf,  one-half  of  this  height,  but  both  are  of  free 
growth  and  produce  distinct  flowers  of  many  colors  and  shades,  from  white,  through  lilac,  brick 
color,  dark  purple,  etc.,  down  to  almost  jet  black;  these  are  produced  on  long,  straight  stems, 
which,  with  being  neat  and  pretty,  render  them  exceedingly  useful  for  cutting  for  summer 
bouquets.  In  flower  from  July  to  October.  The  seed  may  be  sown  early  in  the  open  ground, 
or  started  in  heat,  afterwards  setting  the  seedlings  a  foot  or  fifteen  inches  apart  in  the  garden. 

S.  nanafl.  pi.,  a  dwarf  variety,  somewhat  distinct,  the  flowers  of  which  are  quite  double  and 
globular,  extending  through  all  the  colors  of  the  tribe.  -5".  Stellata  (Starry  Scabiosa).  The 
petals,  or  rather  seed  vessels,  of  this  variety  are  of  peculiar  scaly  texture,  and  when  dried  are 
useful  for  arranging  with  the  everlastings  and  dried  grasses  into  winter  bouquets. 

SEDUM— STONE  CROP  (Hardy  Perennials,  principally). 

Mostly  garden  plants,  with  thick  succulent  leaves,  and  very  tenacious  of  existence;  the 
common  Live-for-Ever  belonging  to  the  genus.  Some  of  the  varieties  are  of  erect  habit,  many 
of  which  are  exceedingly  attractive  in  the  garden,  while  others  are  creeping  and  trailing,  being 
very  useful  for  cultivating  in  pots  in  the  window  or  conservatory,  or  for  planting  in  baskets, 
vases,  etc. ,  to  droop  over  the  edge.  Among  the  latter  S.  Seboldii,  with  grayish  green  foliage 
and  wiry-like  stems,  and  S.  Seboldii  variegata,  similar  to  the  preceding,  except  that  the  leaves 
are  varigated  with  yellow,  are  considered  the  best.  Will  thrive  in  any  soil  and  progagate  readily 
by  division  or  from  cuttings,  which,  of  some  varieties,  will  root  if  simply  laid  where  it  is  damp. 

SENSITIVE  PLANT.     See  Mimosa  Sensitiva. 

SMILAX.     See  Myrsyphyllum  Asparagoides. 

SNAP-DRAGON.     See  Antirrhinum. 

SNOWDROP.     See  Galanthus. 

SOLANUM — JERUSALEM  CHERRY,  ETC.   (Greenhouse  Perennial,  33,  45  to  55,  90°). 
A  family  of  plants  including  several  useful  varieties,  for  pot  culture  in  the  window  and  con- 
servatory and  also  for  bedding.     They  are  of  the  easiest  possible  culture,  thriving^  in  any  soil 
and  under  apparently  adverse  circumstances.     All  may  be  readily  raised  from  cuttings,  and  the 
fruit  bearing  variety  from  seed. 

S.  Jasiminoides,  of  neat  climbing  habit,  with  small,  dark  green  foliage  and  pure  white  flowers ; 
suitable  for  training  to  trellis  or  pillars  in  the  conservatory.  S.  Pseudo-Capsicum,  the  well  known 


7 8  THE  HOME  FLORIST. 


Jerusalem  Cherry,  producing  an  immense  crop  of  scarlet,  cherry-like  fruit,  from  early  in  the  fall 
until  after  Christmas.  Plants  grown  from  seed  are  more  productive  of  fruit  the  first  season, 
than  those  struck  from  cuttings,  or  those  several  years  old.  Sow  in  the  spring  for  fall  bloom, 
and  bring  forward  during  summer  either  in  ample  sized  pots,  plunged  in  the  open  air,  or  else 
by  planting  out  and  taking  up  and  potting  the  plants  in  September.  S.  Pseudo- Capsicum  fol.  var. 
is  a  dwarf  variety  of  the  above.  Aside  of  its  other  good  qualities,  the  foliage  is  margined  .with 
sulphur  yellow  to  half  the  depth  of  the  leaves.  Whether  used  as  a  house  plant,  for  bedding,  or 
for  vase  or  basket  decoration,  it  is  a  valuable  plant. 

SPIREA    (Hardy  Herbaceous  Perennials  and  Shrubs). 

A  genus  containing  a  large  number  of  species,  including  herbaceous  plants  and  shrubs, 
natives  of  Europe,  Asia,  and  America.  They  are  all  hardy,  and  produce  showy  flowers,  usually 
in  heads,  their  prevailing  colors  being  white,  pink,  crimson,  etc.  Of  the  easiest  culture  in  any 
garden  soil,  the  herbaceous  varieties  propagating  by  division  of  the  roots.  The  Astilbe  Japonica, 
which  is  separately  treated  on,  on  page  39,  belongs  to  this  family.  S.  Filipendula  Plena  is  a 
highly  esteemed  variety,  with  deep  green  foliage  of  beautiful  form,  and  pure  white  clusters  of 
bloom,  produced  in  June  on  stems  from  one  to  two  feet  high  There  is  also  a  variety  with 
variegated  foliage  and  whitish  flo.wers. 

STATICE  MARITIMA— THRIFT,  SEA  PINK  (Hardy  Herbaceous  Perennial). 
A  low  growing  plant  of  dense  growth,  which  is  valued  for  edging  beds,  walks,  etc.,  being 
one  of  the  best  in  cultivation  for  this  purpose.  It  grows  rapidly  in  any  garden  soil,  and  can  be 
multiplied  to  any  desired  extent  almost,  yet  does  not  partake  of  a  weedy  character  in  any  way. 
The  plants  grow  less  than  six  inches  high ;  are  very  compact,  with  narrow  deep  green  leaves, 
and  little  heads  of  pink  flowers  in  June  and  July.  Should  be  taken  up  once  every  few  years, 
and  be  divided  and  reset. 

STEVIA   (Greenhouse  Perennial,  33,  45,  8f). 

The  Stevias,  although  botanically  distinct  from  Eupatoriums  (see  Eupatorium,  page  52),  are, 
in  points  of  free  growing  and  winter  flowering  qualities  and  their  general  requirements,  almost 
precisely  the  same  as  that  family  of  plants,  being  with  them  of  the  easiest  culture  and  a  superior 
class  of  plants  for  the  conservatory,  and  also  useful  for  window  culture.  For  their  management, 
follow  directions  given  for  that  family. 

Compacta,  an  early  flowering  variety,  with  large  compact  heads  of  pure  white  flowers;  con- 
tinues in  flowers  nearly  all  winter,  and  longer  than  any  other  variety  of  either  Stevia  or  Eupat- 
orium. Scrrata,  a  free  flowering  variety,  blooming  most  freely  about  the  holidays.  The  flowers 
are  white  and  arranged  loosely  and  gracefully  along  the  stem. 

STOCK — GILLYFLOWER   (Half -Hardy  Annuals,  Biennials  and  Perennials). 

A  genus  of  half-shrubby  plants  grown  from  seed,  which  produce  spikes  of  elegant  fragrant 
single  and  double  flowers  of  many  desirable  and  showy  colors,  including  pure  white.  The  plants 
are  in  no  respect  delicate,  are  easily  reared,  and  in  the  different  sections  afford  varieties  of  the 
greatest  value,  either  for  bedding  or  for  pot  culture  in  the  window,  the  conservatory  (tempera- 
ture, 33,  45  to  55,  80°)  or  the  open-air  plant  stand.  All  kinds  of  Stocks  should  be  transplanted 
from  the  seed  pots  or  beds  in  \vhich  they  are  started  while  they  are  quite  small,  as  their  slender 
roots  soon  extend  to  such  a  distance  that  the  plants  cannot  be  taken  up  without  loss  of  fine  root- 
lets, and  consequent  injury. 

TEN  WEEK  STOCKS. — These  are  important  annuals  ranking  in  general  desirability  as 
garden  plants  with  the  Aster,  Balsam,  Phlox  Drummondii,  Portulaca,  Zinnia,  etc.,  but  are 
superior  to  either  of  these  in  their  admirable  adaptability  to  pot  culture  for  blooming  either  in 
summer  or  winter.  The  section  includes  varieties,  ranging  in  growth  from  one-half  to  one  and 
one-half  feet  in  height,  which  embrace  a  large  variety  of  colors,  such  as  white,  bright  crimson, 
carmine,  blue,  lilac,  chamois,  rose,  blood-red,  yellow,  violet,  purple  and  various  shades  of  these, 
most  of  which  are  exceedingly  pure,  striking  and  fragrant,  and  a  large  percentage  of  the  plants 
will  produce  flowers  perfectly  double.  They  delight  in  any  well  enriched  soil.  For  summer 
flowering  the  seeds  may  be  sown  in  the  hot-bed  or  cold-frame  in  April,  or  the  open  ground  in 
May,  allowing  the  plants  to  stand  twelve  inches  apart.  For  winter  flowering,  sow  in  July, 
August  or  September,  and  cultivate  in  pots  in  the  open  ground  until  cool  autumn  weather,  when 
they  should  be  moved  under  protection,  but  still  treated  to  an  abundance  of  fresh  air  as  late  in 
the  season  as  possible,  and  also  frequently  in  winter.  During  their  flowering  season  in  pots, 
they  will  be  benefited  by  occasional  waterings  with  weak  liquid  manure. 

AUTUMNAL  OR  INTERMEDIATE  STOCKS. — This  section  are  prized  on  account  of  their  flower- 
ing late  in  the  autumn  and  winter,  which  necessitates  that  they  be  grown  in  pots,  and  brought 
into  the  window  or  conservatory  for  blooming.  For  this  purpose  the  seeds  should  be  sown  in 
the  spring.  Seeds  may  also  be  sown  in  July  or  August,  for  plants  to  flower  in  the  spring,  A 
large  number  of  bright  and  desirable  colors  are  embraced. 

EMPEROR  OR  IMPERIAL  STOCKS. — This  desirable  class  of  Stocks  are  better  suited  for  pot 
culture  then  for  bedding,  and  are  perennial  in  habit,  frequently  lasting  for  several  years.  If  the 
seeds  are  sown  in  spring  they  will  bloom  in  autumn,  while  for  spring  flowering  they  should  be 
sown  in  July  and  August.  The  colors  are  white,  rose  and  crimson,  and  the  plants  attain  a  height 
of  eighteen  inches. 


THE  HOME  FLORIST. 


BROMPTON  STOCKS. — The  Brompton  Stocks  are  biennial  in  habit,  flowering  in  the  winter 
or  spring,  from  seed  sown  the  previous  spring,  in  the  window  or  conservatory,  not  being  hardy 
enough  to  endure  our  winters  in  the  open  ground.  By  wintering  the  plants  in  a  place  sufficiently 
cool  not  to  excite  them  into  free  growth  and  flowering,  they  may  be  planted  into  the  border, 
early  in  the  spring  and  will  flower  handsomely  during  summer.  If  a  good  quality  of  seed  is 
sown,  more  than  one-half  may  be  expected  to  produce  double  flowers.  The  flowers  vary  from 
straw  color  to  pure  white,  and  rose  to  deep  purple  and  violet. 

SUNFLOWER.     See  Helianthus. 
SWEET   PEA— LATHYRUS   (Hardy  Annuals  and  Perennials).     See  Fig.  55. 

The  flowering  annual  Peas  are  desirable  and  popular  plants  for  the  garden;  excellent  for 
bouquets  and  cut  flowers,  and  are  commended  as  one  of  the  most  essential  to  every  collection. 
They  are  among  the  most  fragrant  of  all  the  garden  flowers,  and  a  great  variety  of  shades  and 
colors  are  afforded,  such  as  white,  rose  and  white,  purple  and  white,  scarlet,  scarlet  striped  with 
white,  black,  black  with  light  blue,  brownish  purple,  etc.  Being  a  perfectly  hardy  annual, 
seed  may  be  sown  as  early  in  spring  as  the  soil  can  be  prepared.  Sow  in  clumps,  groups,  or 
drills,  and  place  sticks  or  other  fixtures  for  the  Peas  to  run  upon,  and  treat  the  same  as  the 
common  garden  Pea.  By  cutting  the  flowers  as  fast  as  they  bloom  the  plants  will  continue  pro- 
lific all  season. 

PERENNIAL  PEA  (Everlasting  Pea). — A  beautiful  climbing  perennial,  easily  grown  from 
seed,  or  may  be  increased  by  dividing  the  roots  of  old  plants.  The  flowers  are  red,  white, 
rose-colored,  etc.,  and  are  produced  in  clusters  in  long  succession.  An  excellent  plant  for 
training  to  trellis,  or  an  arbor,  and  is  hardy. 

SWEET  WILLIAM.     See  Dianthus. 
TAGETES   SIGN  ATA  PUMILIA.     See  Marigold. 

THUNBERGIA   (Tender  Annual). 

Trailing  and  climbing  plants  for  conservatory  and  window  culture,  which  are  among  our 
most  valuable  basket  plants  in  protected  situations,  and  are  also  well  suited  for  bedding.  The 
flowers  are  large,  round,  single  and  embrace  peculiarly  attractive  colors,  which  are  certain  to  be 
admired,  being  yellow,  orange  and  buff  in  the  different  varieties,  with  an  intensely  dark  eye  of 
large  size ;  there  is  also  a  pure  white  variety.  The  seeds  should  be  started  early,  in  a  warm 
place ;  of  slow  growth  while  young,  but  as  warm  weather  comes  on  the  plants  advance  rapidly 
and  flower  constantly. 

TIGRIDIA— TIGER   FLOWER   (Tender  Bulbous  Perennial). 

A  bulbous  plant  for  the  garden,  producing  beautiful  and  curious  large  flowers  for  a  long 
time  in  summer.  Their  colors  in  different  varieties  embrace  orange  and  scarlet  with  golden 
yellow  variegations,  and  are  distinctly  spotted  with  black.  The  bulbs  may  be  planted  in  May 
in  warm  situations,  and  should  be  lifted  again  early  in  October.  After  allowing  them  to  dry, 
pack  in  dry  sand  or  sawdust  and  store  away  from  frosts — and  mice,  I  might  add,  who  will 
devour  them  if  an  opportunity  is  afforded — until  time  of  planting  in  spring. 

TROP^EOLUM — NASTURTIUM  (Half-Hardy  Annuals  and  Greenhouse  Perennials,  35, 50,  90°). 

A  well-known  genus,  affording  plants  of  strong  growing  and  free  flowering  habits,  some  of 
which  are  dwarf  and  others  climbers.  The  flowers  are  attractive  and  showy  in  all  the  varieties, 
the  prevailing  colors  being  dark  crimson,  brilliant  scarlet,  dark  orange,  sulphur  spotted  with 
maroon,  etc.  There  is  a  double  flowering  variety,  of  orange  scarlet  color,  which,  with  Star  of 
Fire  and  varieties  belonging  to  the  Lobbianum  section,  are  mostly  cultivated  as  perennials,  being 
increased  by  cuttings. 

T.  Star  of  Fire  is  an  exceedingly  useful  and  easily  cultivated  variety  for  pot  culture  in  the 
conservatory,  producing  dazzling  flowers  in  the  greatest  profusion,  and  climbing  freely  on  trellis, 
pillar  or  rafters,  if  planted  in  a  large  pot.  By  starting  with  young  plants  of  this  variety  in 
the  spring,  keeping  them  in  pots,  and  placing  in  a  light  situation  in  the  conservatory,  each 
plant  will  produce  hundreds  of  flowers  from  November  until  spring,  of  the  following  winter. 
The  varieties  which  come  under  the  head  Nasturtium,  are  grown  from  seed  planted  either  in 
open  ground  or  in  heat,  and  afterwards  set  in  the  garden.  Those,  classed  with  T.  Majus,  being 
climbers  of  rapid  growth,  make  an  excellent  covering  for  old  walls,  trellises,  etc. ;  while  the 
varieties  of  T.  Minus  (Dwarf  Nasturtiums),  from  their  close,  compact  growth  and  rich  colored 
flowers,  are  suitable  for  bedding  purposes. 

TROP^EOLUM  PEREGRINUM  (Canary  Bird  flower). — This  is  a  beautiful  climber,  with  fine 
cut  foliage,  the  flowers  of  which  are  a  bright  Canary-yellow,  and  when  half  open  have  a  pretty 
and  fanciful  likeness  to  little  birds.  The  plants  are  well  adapted  for  covering  trellises,  etc., 
and  are  easily  grown  from  the  seed,  which  may  be  sown  directly  where  they  are  required,  or  in 
heat,  afterwards  transplanting  the  seedlings.  In  flower  from  July  until  frosts. 

TULIP  (Hardy  Bulb). 

The  Tulip  family,  in  some  of  its  varieties  at  least,  is  too  well  known  to  require  any  descrip- 
tion, being  esteemed  for  its  hardiness,  ease  of  culture  in  any  soil,  the  amazing  brilliancy  of  its 


8o 


THE  HOME  FLORIST. 


flowers  which  are  produced  in  spring,  and  other  good  qualities.  The  family  consists  of  numer- 
ous classes,  including  the  Early  and  Late  Flowering,  both  double  and  single,  Parrot,  Due  Van 
Thol,  Bizarres  and  Byblooms,  in  different  varieties  and  colors,  all  of  which  are  highly  desirable. 
The  gorgeous  coloring  in  many  of  the  improved  varieties  is  remarkable,  and  a  superiority 
can  be  claimed  for  the  family  in  this  respect  over  any  other  in  cultivation  to  an  extent. 
Among  the  large  and  most  double  varieties,  as  well  as  the  single,  are  to  be  found  distinct,  pure 
white,  pure  white  striped  with  rose,  intense  scarlet,  velvety  crimson,  rich  bright  yellow,  glitter- 
ing red,  and  many  other  colors.  Tulips  should  be  planted  in  the  autumn,  as  directed  on  pages 
14-15,  at  a  distance  of  five  or  six  inches  apart,  giving  the  tall,  late  varieties  even  a  little  more 
distance,  and  all  about  five  inches  deep.  They  are  also  very  valuable  for  forcing  in  the  window 
or  conservatory  in  winter,  like  Hyacinths,  Crocus,  etc.,  and  special  directions  for  their  manage- 
ment here,  are  given  on  page  21. 


55-     Flowering  Pea. 


Fig.  56.     Double  Tuberose  Flower. 


TUBEROSE  (Tender  Bulb). 

A  bulbous  plant,  far  less  commonly  grown  than  its  abundant  merits  deserve,  producing  many 
beautiful  pure  white,  wax-like,  sweet-scented,  double  flowers,  on  long,  upright  stalks.  The  only 
difficulty  in  the  way  of  this  magnificent  flower  being  generally  cultivated,  is,  that  unless  the 
tubers  are  started  early,  in  artificial  heat,  our  seasons  in  the  North  are  not  sufficiently  long  for 
it  to  flower  in  the  open  ground,  and,  then,  unlike  the  Gladiolus,  Tigridia,  etc.,  the  bulbs  do  not 
produce  new  bulbs  each  year  for  flowering  the  next.  They  produce  small  bulblets  freely,  with 
each  season's  growth,  but  these  must  be  cultivated — one,  two  or  more  years — before  they  will 
be  sufficiently  large  for  flowering.  The  first  difficulty  may  %be  overcome  by  starting  the  bulbs 
in  pots,  in  a  warm  place,  late  in  April  and  turning  them  into  the  garden  soil  the  latter  part  of 
May.  Should  frost,  in  September,  threaten  to  destroy  the  flowers  before  all  are  expanded — as 
they  open  for  several  months  in  succession — no  plants  of  the  garden  are  easier  to  take  up,  and 
the  roots  may  be  carefully  lifted  and  transplanted  to  pots,  for  removal  to  the"  conservatory  or  a 
warm,  light  window,  where  they  can  finish  blooming.  Although  the  Tuberose  requires  consid- 
erable heat  to  flower  well,  growing  bulbs  may  be  transplanted,  either  in  the  spring  or  fall,  with 
safety.  To  secure  bulbs  for  flowering,  the  young  bulblets  should,  in  the  fall  or  spring,  be 
removed  from  the  old  bulbs  and  be  planted  in  a  warm  part  of  the  garden,  not  earlier  than  the 
first  of  June,  and  given  clean  culture  until  the  first  of  October.  This  must  be  repeated  each 
year  with  all  that  are  desired  for  flowers,  until  they  are  strong  enough  to  produce  flowering 
shoots.  The  bulbs  of  this  plant  require  to  be  kept  in  a  dry  condition,  where  it  is  warm  during 
winter.  The  temperature  should  not  fall  far  below  45°,  else  they  may  receive  injury,  by  the 
germ  of  the  next  season's  flowering  shoot  decaying,  although  the  external  appearance  of  the 
bulbs  would  not  indicate  it.  The  Tuberose  is  susceptible  of  being  managed  to  flower  in  winter 
by  keeping  the  bulbs  dry  and  starting  them  at  any  time,  or  at  intervals  for  succession  up  to 
August  1st;  but  they  require  a  situation  where  the  thermometer,  in  the  night,  will  indicate 
at  least  60°,  and  ten  or  fifteen  higher  during  the  day,  otherwise  any  attempt  to  force  them  will 
be  fruitless. 


THE  HOME  FLORIST.  8 1 


TRITOMA  UVARIA — RED-HOT  POKER  (nearly  Hardy  Perennial). 
This  beautiful  garden  plant  throws  up,  in  September,  numerous  strong  flower  stems  four  feet 
in  height,  which  are  surmounted,  each,  with  a  spike  of  red  and  yellow  flowers  of  exceedingly 
striking  appearance.  Although  the  Tritoma  is  nearly  hardy  in  this  latitude,  it  is  better  to  take 
up  the  plants  in  autumn  and  keep  in  a  cool  cellar  or  cold-pit,  covering  the  roots  with  earth  or 
sand.  Of  the  easiest  culture,  and  will  thrive  in  any  garden  soil. 

VALLOTA   PURPUREA   (Tender  Bulb). 

This  is  a  superb  summer  flowering  bulb  for  pot  culture,  and  also  suitable  for  bedding.  It  is 
easily  grown,  and  in  August  throws  up  its  flowering  shoots  a  foot  or  more  high,  each  of  which 
is  surmounted  by  five  to  eight  Lily-like  flowers  of  brilliant  scarlet  color.  During  its  season  of 
growth  the  plant  should  be  abundantly  watered,  and  exposed  to  the  sun  as  much  as  possible. 
In  October  water  should  be  gradually  withheld  allowing  them  to  become  fully  dry  by  Novem- 
ber, in  which  condition  they  should  be  kept  in  any  dry  place,  away  from  frost  until  March,  when 
they  may  be  started  into  growth,  by  applying  water,  for  another  season  of  flowering. 

VERBENA  (Annual  or  Greenhouse  Perennial,  jj,  45,  80° ).     See  Fig.  54. 

The  Verbena  is  in  every  respect  a  desirable  bedding  plant,  but  of  little  use  for  pot  culture. 
In  the  open  air  it  is  a  rapid  grower,  an  abundant  bloomer,  and  the  flowers  in  the  varieties  embrace 
colors  and  shades,  varied  without  end  almost,  and  exceedingly  bright  and  attractive ;  indeed 
there  is  not  a  dull  color  to  be  found  among  them.  Verbena  plants  set  out  in  May  require  but  a 
warm  shower  to  start  them  into  rapid  growth,  which  in  the  hot  weather  of  June  -will  assume  a 
spreading  form,  and  the  plant  be  continually  in  bloom.  By  August  the  upright  single  stem 
plant  that  was  set  in  May,  will  have  extended  to  three  feet  across,  and  will  at  all  times 
be  covered  with  scores  of  beautiful,  bright,  in  some  varieties,  fragrant  flowers.  Verbenas  will 
thrive  in  any  soil,  but,  without  exception,  it  should  be  in  the  highest  state  of  fertility.  I  would 
particularly  caution  inexperienced  growers  against  planting  too  close  in  the  beds ;  three  feet  is 
near  enough.  Do  not  grow  them  on  the  same  spot  too  often,  as  they  are  finer  on  fresh  soil. 
After  the  plant  has  made  some  growth,  the  stems  should  be  pegged  down  to  the  ground  with 
hair-pins,  or  little  sticks  like  matches,  four  inches  long  crossed  over  them.  The  Verbena  is 
most  generally  increased  from  cuttings,  although  it  can  be  easily  reared  from  seed.  The  advant- 
age of  adopting  the  former  method  is,  that  the  splendid  named  varieties  can  be  maintained  from 
year  to  year,  while  it  can  never  be  known  what  colors  will  come  from  the  seed,  besides  the  lat- 
ter will  also  lack  the  fine  form  of  the  selected  named  varieties,  each  one  of  which,  is  likely  to 
equal  the  best  that  could  be  reared  among  thousands,  from  seed.  In  winter,  stock  plants  require 
a  cool,  light,  airy  situation,  on  which  account  it  is  a  difficult  matter  to  keep  up  healthy  ones,  ex- 
cept in  the  conservatory.  Where  it  is  desired  to  keep  over  stock  it  is  better  to  start  young  plants 
for  the  purpose  from  cuttings,  in  September,  than  to  take  up  and  pot  old  plants.  Propagation 
from  these  for  bedding  in  the  spring  may  be  dorie  at  any  time  from  January  until  the  last  of 
March,  but  the  young  plants  should  be  given  as  much  light  and  air  as  possible.  To  grow  seed- 
lings, sow  in  February,  March  or  April,  provide  plenty  of  light  and  air,  and  never  allow  them 
to  be  crowded.  Verbenas,  if  well  hardened,  will  bear  slight  freezing  without  injury. 

VERBENA  MONTANA  (Hardy  Verbena). — This  is  a  very  pretty  and  perfectly  hardy  plant, 
for  the  garden.  The  flowers  are  similar  in  form  to  the  tender  varieties ;  of  a  bright  rose  color, 
changing  to  lilac,  and  are  produced  in  great  profusion  all  summer.  Plant  is  of  low  spreading 
habit,  and  handsome.  » 

VERONICA   (Half -Hardy  Perennial,  30,  4$,   75°). 

A  class  of  plants  blooming  during  the  fall  months,  that  are  well  adapted  for  bedding  and  pot 
culture.  The  flowers  are  borne  on  spikes  from  three  to  five  inches  in  length,  running  through 
the  various  shades  of  purple,  rose,  lilac  and  white,  and  are  attractive.  The  plants  succeed  in 
any  soil,  and  when  growing  in  the  garden  may  be  taken  up  and  preserved  in  a  cold-pit  during 
winter,  or  maybe  kept  in  a  cool  part  of  the  conservatory.  There  is  a  handsome  variegated 
variety  which  is  highly  attractive,  either  as  a  pot,  basket  or  vase  plant,  or  for  bedding. 

VIRGINIAN   STOCK— MALCOLMIA  MARITIMA  (Hardy  Annual). 

This  beautiful  little  annual,  notwithstanding  its  popular  name,  is  a  native  of  the  shores  of 
the  Mediterranean.  The  seeds  may  be  sown  directly  where  the  plants  are  wanted,  early  or  at 
any  time  in  the  spring.  The  plants  grow  six  inches  high,  and  embrace  in  the  respective  varie- 
ties red,  white  and  rose  colored  flowers.  The  flowers  are  small  and  distinct;  are  produced  in 
great  profusion  on  erect  stems  well  above  the  plant,  from  early  in  the  season  until  after 
frosts.  Useful  for  massing  and  in  ribbon  beds,  and  may  also  be  grown  as  an  edging  plant. 
The  plants  should  stand  three  or  four  inches  apart. 

VIOLET   (Hardy  Perennial). 

Well  known  hardy  spring  flowering  plants,  very  highly  esteemed  for  their  earliness,  and 
the  rich  refreshing  fragrance  of  the  flowers,  which  include  several  shades  of  violet-blue  color,  in 
the  different  varieties.  There  are  double  and  single  varieties,  the  former  being  most  highly 
prized,  although  they  lack  somewhat  in  hardiness.  These  are  forced  to  a  very  large  extent,  for 
winter  flower,  in  all  large  cities  where  a  good  demand  for  cut  flowers  exists.  Plants  designed 
for  this  purpose,  are  grown  in  the  open  ground  during  summer,  at  a  foot  apart  each  way.  In 

6 


82  THE  HOME  FLORIST. 


September  these  are  gone  over,  and  the  runners  which  start  into  growth  about  this  time  are 
removed.  This  operation  is  repeated  every  few  weeks,  and  in  October  the  plants  are  taken  up 
and  potted,  or  if  to  be  forced  in  the  conservatory  they  may  be  planted  directly  on  the  beds. 
The  plants  will  not  bear  much  confinement,  and  a  crop  of  flowers  can  only  be  expected  where 
plants  are  kept  cool  (32,  45,  75°)  and  treated  to  an  abundance  of  fresh  air.  The  double  varie- 
ties may  be  wintered  with  entire  safety  in  a  cold-pit,  or  by  receiving  protection  in  the  open 
ground.  All  delight  in  cool  places,  and  a  little  shade.  Propagate  by  division  and  cuttings. 

WALL  FLOWER— CHERIANTHUS  CHEIRI  (Half- Hardy  Perennial.) 
This  is  a  well  known  plant,  of  the  easiest  culture  from  seed,  and  suitable  for  pot  or  garden 
culture.  It  commences  flowering  in  the  spring  of  the  second  season  after  sowing  ;  during  the 
preceding  winter  should  be  kept  in  the  cellar,  cold-pit,  or  cool  part  of  the  conservatory.  There 
are  handsome  double  and  single  flowers,  very  fragrant,  with  orange  and  yellow  colors  predomi- 
nating, and  these  shaded  red,  brown  or  violet. 

WAX   PLANT.     See  Hoya. 
XERANTHEMUM   (Hardy  Annual). 

A  class  of  everlasting  flowers,  possessing  considerable  merit  for  drying  for  winter  decoration. 
There  are  white  and  several  shades  of  light  purple  flowers,  which  are  double  and  borne  on  long 
substantial  stems  that  retain  their  strength  \vith  drying.  The  plants  are  robust  and  easily  grown 
from  seed,  which  starts  readily  and  may  be  sown  in  heat  or  where  the  plants  are  wanted. 


Double  Zinnia  Flower. 

ZINNIA,    DOUBLE  (Half-Hardy  Annual). 

The  improved  Double  Zinnia  of  the  present  day  is  emphatically  one  of  the  most  valuable 
annuals  that  can  be  grown,  and  one  that  is  deserving  of  a  place  in  every  flower  garden.  The 
plant  is  robust,  free-growing  and  exceedingly  prolific,  and  may  be  reared  from  seed  sown  under 
glass,  transplanting  the  plants  when  small,  or  in  the  open  ground,  as  soon  as  danger  from  frost 
is  over.  The  flowers  are  of  beautiful  form  and  texture,  perfectly  double  in  the  best  sorts,  and 
afford  white,  scarlet,  yellow,  purple,  salmon,  violet  and  other  colors  in  the  different  varieties. 
They  begin  to  appear  when  the  plants  are  very  young,  retain  their  attractiveness  for  a  long  time, 
and  increase  in  number  and  beauty  until  hard  frosts.  Unfortunately  the  Zinnia,  like  many  other 
choice  double  kinds  of  seed-grown  plants,  will  only  produce  a  certain  percentage  of  double 
flowers  from  the  best  of  seed.  I  generally  set  the  plants  six  or  seven  inches  apart,  in  rows 
twenty  inches  apart,  and  then  as  they  come  in  flower  thin  out  one  half  or  moi'e  of  the  poorest, 
and  thus  retain  only  those  of  superior  quality.  This  thinning  must  be  done  with  caution,  and 
several  flowers  should  be  allowed  to  form  on  a  plant  before  deciding  whether  to  pull  it  up  or  not, 
as  plants  which  will  in  season  produce  the  most  double  flowers,  frequently  show  their  first  ones 
only  partially  double.  The  Zinnia  will  thrive  in  any  garden  soil. 


THE  HOME  FLORIST.''  '   ;t 


THE    FLORICULTURAL    OPERATIONS    OF    THE 
YEAR,  ARRANGED   BY   WEEKS. 

The  successful  cultivation  of  plants  and  flowers  depends  largely  on  the  performance  of 
all  operations  connected  therewith,  at  certain  suitable  times,  and  some  kind  of  a  reminder  of 
the  various  ones,  as  they  should  occur,  is  serviceable  to  cultivators,  especially  to  amateurs  and 
others  who  devote  only  a  small  portion  of  time  to  floriculture.  The  following  is  an  arrangement 
of  the  operations  and  work  of  the  florist,  during  the  year,  into  fifty-two  parts,  which  are 
respectively  adapted  to  the  fifty-two  weeks  of  a  year.  It  is  most  perfect  in  its  application, 
to  latitudes  between  42°  and  43°  (Buffalo,  N.  Y.),  and  persons  living  north  and  south  should 
calculate  upon  the  difference  in  the  length,  earliness  and  lateness  of  the  season,  between  their 
own  latitude  and  the  above,  in  making  use  of  the  arrangement. 

In  dividing  a  year  into  fifty-two  weekly  parts,  each  part  or  week  of  the  year,  it  is  plain,  will 
begin  on  the  same  day  that  the  first  week;  or  January  I,  commences  on;  thus,  if  January  I  falls 
on  Wednesday,  so  will  January  8,  January  15,  and  all  the  dates  given  below,  the  same  being 
also  true  when  the  year  begins  with  any  other  day  of  the  week.  The  only  exception  to  this  is 
after  Feb.  29,  during  a  leap-year,  and  here  the  difference  (one  day)  is  so  slight  as  to  be  of 
little  consequence. 

The  matter  under  each  weekly  head  is  designed  for  the  week  commencing  at  the  date  given. 
Although  nearly  all  the  operations  named  may  with  safety  be  performed  either  at  a  time  preced- 
ing or  following  the  week  under  which  they  appear,  those  printed  in  italics  are  of  general  interest 
at  the  season  in  which  they  are  given,  without  particular  reference  to  the  week  they  may  be  under. 

The  following  abbreviations  are  made  use  of:  W.  for  Window,  Con.  for  Conservatory, 
O.  A.  for  Open  Air,  C.  P.  for  Cold-Pit,  W.  F.  for  Winter  Flowering.  The  small  figures  which 
appear  frequently  (thus  24)  refer  to  the  pages  where  the  subject  is  specially  treated  on. 


January  i — First  Week. 

Read  articles  in  preceding  pages  relative 
to  the  required  temperature,  adaptability  and 
culture  of  each  plant  included  in  the  collec- 
tion. .  .  tJPay  strict  attention  to  airing®  when 
the  weather  is  mild,  watering  plants •,14-20  de- 
stroying insects,  etc.,  in  the  Con.**  W.^  and 

C.  /).24— see    Dec.    17    and   Oct.    15 Give 

Callas,43  hardy  bulbs,  in  pots,  etc.,21  (see  list 
Oct.  8)  plenty  of  water ....  Fuchsias 53  at  rest 
may  be  started ....  Repair  at  once  any  broken 
glass, 

January  8 — Second  Week. 

Give  plants  in  W.  extra  protection, ^  during 
severe  nights. .  .  .Study  and  decide  early  what 
improvements  would  be  desirable  about  the 
grounds;  also  to  what  extent  you  will  engage 
in,  or  increase  upon  floriculture,  during  the 
coming  year.  •..  .Ascertain  the  number  of 
plants,  etc.,  required,  and  govern  subsequent 
propagations,  the  procuring  of  plants,  seeds, 
etc.,  accordingly. 

January  15— Third  Week. 
Continue  to  bring  in  kinds  named  under 
Oct.  8,  and  Roses,  etc.,  under  Oct.  29. ..  .Tie 
up  Hyacinths  and  other  flowering  plants .... 
Keep  Pelargoniums^  near  the  light .  .  . .  Syringe 
and  wash  plants,87  etc. — see  Nov.  26. ..  .See 


and   other  tubers,   etc., 
are  not  suffering  from 


that  dormant  Canna 
named  under  Oct.  8 
any  cause. 

January  22 — Fourth  Week. 
Seeds  under  Feb.  19  may  be  sown,  for  early. 
....  As  bulbs  pass  out  of  flower,  cut  away  the 
stalks ....  Keep  the  earth  in  pots  mellow,  etc. 
— see  Dec.  17. 

January  29 — Fifth  Week. 
Make  hot-bed  sash,  etc. — see  Dec.  IO.... 
Study  to  improve  plants,  by  pruning** .  .  .  .En- 


courage W.  F.  Roses,  etc. ,  by  occasionally  ap- 
plying liquid  manure.88 

February  5— Sixth  Week. 
February  is  the  month  for  propagating  from 
cuttings,15  all  kinds  of  common  soft -wooded 
plants  in  the  W.  and  Con.,  for  adornment,  dur- 
ing the  coming  year,  and  nearly  everything  will 
strike  readily,  therefore,  as  fast  as  suitable 
growth  is  afforded,  make  cuttings  and  progagate. 
....  After  Poinsettias74  have  flowered,  give  rest 
....  Provide  seedling  Plants  named  under  Aug. 
20,  Oct.  29,  with  abundance  of  pot  room,  air, 
and  light,  and  they  will  grow  rapidly. 

February  12— Seventh  Week. 
Continue  to  bring  in,  for  forcing,  kinds 
named  under  Oct.  8,  and  Roses,  etc.,  under 
Oct.  29. ..  .Start  Chrysanthemums48  to  propa- 
gate from ....  Provide  an  abundance  of  man- 
ure for  future  use. 

February  19 — Eighth  Week. 
Seeds  of  Pansy,71  Verbena,81  Salvia  Splen- 
dens,77  Petunia,72  Stock,78  Sweet  Alyssum,38 
Mimulus,18  Maurandia,18  Ice  Plant,68  Sensitive 
Plant,68  Delphinium,60  Dianthus,50  Antirrhin- 
um,38 may  be  sown  to  secure  strong  plants  for 
spring  and  summer  flowering  .  .  .As  the  season 
advances  plants  will  need  more  water,  and  should 
have  an  increase  of  air;  be  ever  on  guard 
against  insects — see  Oct.  15,  Dec.  17 ....  Have 
clean  pots  and  good  soil  on  hand  for  newly 
started  plants. 

February  26 — Ninth  Week. 
See  that  implements,  vases,  etc.,  for  sum- 
mer use  are  in  repair ....  Give  all  cutting^ 
close  attention ....  Perfect  plans  as  alluded  to 
under  Jan.  8 ....  Water  abundantly  plants 
being  forced ....  Give  the  Fernery*1  daily  atten- 
tion— see  Dec.  24. . .  .  .  See  that  climbers  of  all 
kinds  have  suitable  support. 


THE  HOME  FLORIST. 


March  5 — Tenth  Week. 
See  that  a.  proper  quantity  of  stock  is  com- 
ing on,  either  by  propagation  or  otherwise. 
. .  . .  Propagation  from  cuttings^  should  still  go 
on  for  spring  plants,  and  Chrysanthemums,46 
Eupatoriums,52  Stevias,18  Roses,25  Carnations,44 
Violets,  ^Liboniaj^Laurustinus^sjasminums,64 
W.  F.  Fuchsias,55  Cytisus,49  Chorozema,46 

Abutilons,34  for  W.  F.  be  struck Pinch  bac^ 

the  shoots  of  newly  started  plants,  to  induce  a 
stocky  growth ....  Pot  cuttings1*  soon  as  possible, 
after  they  are  rooted. .  . .  Dormant  Lemon  Ver- 
benas,36 Richardias,76  Gesneras,59  Mimulus,18 
may  be  started  to  grow ....  Out  door  work, 
such  as  grading?  trenching, 12  etc. ,  should  be  com- 
menced as  early  as  the  soil  can  be  worked,  but  be- 
ware of  digging  stiff,  loamy  soil  when  it  is  wet. 

March  12 — Eleventh  Week. 
Kinds  named  under  Oct.  8,  and  Roses,  etc., 
under  Oct  29,  may  still  be  brought  in .... 
Provide  pot  plants  with  as  much  room  as  pos- 
sible.... See  "  As  the  season  advances,"  etc., 
Feb.  19,  also  Oct.  15  and  Dec.  17. 

March.  1 9 — Twelfth  Week. 
From  the  time  Camellias**'  start  into  growth 
until  autumn  they  require  to  be  shaded  from  the 
sun;  will  also  need  more  water  now,  and  may 
be  pruned  if  desirable .  .  .  .  Attend  to  airing  Fern- 
eries,^  see  Dec.  24.  ..  .Hot-beds13  may  be 
made  for  general  purposes ....  If  Anemone 
Hortensis 38  tubers  have  been  kept  over,  plant 
at  first  opportunity. 

March  26 — Thirtee?ith  Week. 
Seeds  of  Gomphrena,59  Cobcea,47  Amaran th- 
us, ^Celosia,44  Ipomoea,62  Thunbergia, 79  Canary 
BirdjFlower,79  Canna,44  may  be  sown  in  heat. 
.  .  .  .Hot-beds^  should  be  very  carefully  aired, 
watered  and  protected;  allow  for  the  admittance 
of  a  little  air  during  night  time.  .  .  .  Lilies65  may 
be  started  in  pots ....  Oleanders,70  Oranges  and 
Lemons,70  Cactus,41  Pomegranates,75  Hydran- 
geas,62 may  be  started  into  new  growth;  repot- 
ting if  needed.  .  .  .Calceolarias,42  Cinerarias,47 
Pelargoniums,71  may  be  treated  to  liquid  man- 
ure88 occasionally.  .  .  .  Give  cuttings  close  atten- 
tion; pot  off  early .  .  .  .Bedding  and  other  plants 
in  pots  will  do  well  in  a  good  hot-bed.  ,  .  .  Push 
outdoor  work  as  the  season  will  allow.  Protec- 
tion applied  to  beds,  plants,  etc.,  in  the  fall 
should  be  removed  if  not  yet  done.  Sodding9 
may  be  done  as  soon  as  the  ground  is  settled. 

April  2— Fourteenth  Week. 

Cuttings  may  still  be  made  of  Verbenas,81 
Petunias,72  Achryanthes,35  Coleus,47  Salvias,77 
Heliotropes,60  Fuchsias,53  German  Ivy,18  etc., 
for  summer  decoration,  and  the  kinds  named 

under  March  5th  for  W.  F Seeds  of  Ac- 

roclinum,35  Aster,38  Balsam,39  Browalia,41 
Cacalia,41  Celosia,44  Helichrysum,60  Helipter- 
um,61  Japanese  Maize,64  Marigold,67  Petunia,72 
Ricinus,76  Phlox  Drummondii,73  Portulaca,75 
Scabiosa,77  Stocks  of  all  kinds,78  Trapoeolum,79 
Wall  Flower,82  Xeranthemum,82  Double  Zin- 
.nia,82  and  those  named  under  Feb.  19  may  be 
spwn  in  heat13. ...  If  the  soil  is  dry  Hardy  Per- 
ennials may  be  taken  up,  divided  and  reset,  as 
required,  and  Lilies65  be  planted. 


April  p— Fifteenth  Week. 
Not  much  fire  heat  is  likely  to  be  needed 
after  this  date  in  the  Con. — see  "As  the  Season 
Advances,"  etc.,  under  Feb.  IQ  .  ..  .Dahlias,49 
Caladiums,42  Cannas,44  Amaryllis,37  Vallota,81 
may  be  started  in  heat . .  .  .  A s  the  soil  becouus 
Jit,  Candytuft,44  Sweet  Pea,79  Convolvulus  mi- 
nor,48 Mignonette,68  Clarkia,47  Sweet  Alys- 
sum,36  Briza,60  Coix  Lachryma,60  Lupinus,67 
may  be  sown 12  in  the  O.  A ....  Overhaul 
plants  remaining  in  the  C.  P.  and  give  almost 
full  exposure  to  air. 

April  16— Sixteenth  Week. 
Keep  watch  of  the  seed-beds,™  watering  when 
necessary,  removing  weeds,  and  thinning  and 
transplanting  plants  that  stand  too  close. .  . . 
Watch  for  and  destroy  all  insects  21-24  in  the 
W.  Con.,  etc.,  as  with  warm  weather  they  mul- 
tiply rapidly — see  Dec.  1 7 ....  If  W.  plants  can 
be  set  outdoors  during  a  warm  shower  they 
will  be  benefited. .  .  .Early  hanging  baskets  17 
may  be  planted,  .  . .  Sow  lawns,8  if  ready.  .  . . 
Divide  and  reset  edgings  of  Statice 78. .  .  .  PJant 
out  Tritomas,81  etc.  .  .  .Secure  plenty  of  loamy 
turf,  manure,  refuse  hops,  etc.,  for  potting  soil. 

April  23 — Seventeenth  Week. 
Start  Tuberose  bulbs  80  in  a  warm  place .... 
Propagate  Double  White  Primroses 75  by  divi- 
sion . .  .  Cold-frames  13  may  be  sown  with  seeds 
named  under  April  2,  etc. .  -  .Hot-beds 13  may 
still  be  sown ....  If  they  have  been  well  aired, 
Carnations,44  Pinks,74Violets,81  for  W.  F.,  etc., 
also  Veronicas,81  Penstemons,72  Pansies,71  may 
be  planted  out ....  Make  a  first  planting  of 
Gladiolus,59  continue  doing  so  at  intervals  of 
ten  days  or  two  weeks,  until  June  15. 

April  jo — Eighteenth  Week. 
Give  an  abundance  of  air  to  all  plants ;  attend 
to  pinching  back  87 ;  will  need  close  attention  as 
regai'ds  watering,  lest  they  suffer  from  drying 
out — see  Feb.  1 9  and  Dec.  17....  See  ' '  Keep 
watch  of  Seed-beds,"  etc.,  April  16, .  .  .Mow 
the  lawn  8  as  soon  as  a  little  growth  of  grass  has 
been  made;  repeat  every  two  weeks  or  oftener, 
during  the  season. 

May  j — Nineteenth  Week. 
If  well-hardened,  Roses,25  Verbenas,81  and 
the  hardiest  annuals  and  other  plants  may  be 
set  out. .  - . See  " Transplanting."  13. .  . . Seeds 
maybe  sown12  in  the  O.  A.,  of  Animated  Oats,38 
Amaranthus,36  Amobium,37  Antirrhinum,38  As- 
ter,38 Browalia,41  Cacalia,41  Calendula,43  Calli- 
opsis,43  Campanula,44  Agrostemma,36  Clarkia,47 
Morning  Glory,48  Erysimum,52  Escholtzia,52 
Godetia,59  Grasses,60  Gypsophila,60  Helian- 
thus,60  Helichrysum,60  Leptosiphon,65  Nemo- 
phi  la, 70  Pansy, "  Petunia,  "Phlox  Drummondii, 73 
Poppy,75  Portulaca,75  Salpiglossis,77  Scabiosa,77 
Ten- week  Stock,78  Tropseolum,79  Virginian 
Stock,81  Xeranthemum,82  Double  Zinnia82  be- 
sides those  named  under  Aug.  1 3.,.. The 
ventilators  of  the  Con.  may  be  kept  open 
almost  constantly ....  See  that  no  Red-Spider 
affect  Roses,  Fuchsias,  etc.  This  is  a  very  small 
insect 21  24  31  appearing  on  the  under-side  of 
leaves,  in  large  numbers,  and  causing  them  to 
turn  brown  and  finally  drop — see  May  21 .... 


THE  HOME  FLORIST.  <"''   /,   ;      I'j**  «-,-•".«        85 


Cut  away  flower  stems  of  bulbs  out  of  bloom, 
but  let  the  leaves  grow. 

May  14 — Twentieth  Week. 

The  planting  out  of  all  but  the  most  tender 
plants  may  go  on .  .  .  Plant  out  Dahlia  tu- 
bers 49 .  .  . .  Sow  seeds  of  Solanum 77  in  pots,  for 
autumn  and  winter  decoration,  and  in  the 
open  air  tender  annuals,  such  as  Balsam,  39Cal- 
andrina,42  Celosia,44  Helipterum,61  Japanese 
Maize,64  Marigold,67  Mirabilis.68.  .  .  .Keep  a 
lookout  for  Rose  Saw-flies — see  ' '  Insects  Injuri- 
ous to  Roses."  31 

May  21 — Twenty -first  Week. 

The  glass  of  the  Con.  may  be  shaded,24  ex- 
cept over  Noisette  and  other  Roses.25  These 
should  be  syringed  frequently,  as  also  should 
Camellias,'®  Fuchsias,^  and  other  plants  kept  in 
during  summer,  to  create  moisture  for  prevent- 
ing attacks  of  Red  Spider.  Water  should  also  at 
all  times  be  freely  used  on  the  walks  and 
about  the  Con.  The  ventilators  should  be 
kept  open.  ..  .Azaleas39  may  be  repotted 
and  moved  out  ;  also  Agaves,35  Cala- 
diums,4'2  Dracenas,52  and  othel-  ornamental 

pot    plants,    designed  for  the  lawn,    etc 

Winter-flowering  Roses,25  Bouvardia,41  Jasmi- 
nums,64  Poinsettias,74  and  those  named  March 
5,  to  be  grown  in  pots  during  summer,  should 
be  moved  to  the  O.  A.,  and  carefully  plunged 
in  soil  or  other  substance  to  prevent  their  drying 
out ;  each  one  should  be  placed  on  a  stone,  pot- 
shred  or  slate,  to  prevent  angle  worms  enter- 
ing through  the  hole  below. .  .  .  House  plants19 
may  be  moved  to  summer  quarters.  .  .  .Vases,17 
hanging  baskets,17  etc.,  may  be  put  out,  and 
new  ones  still  planted. .  .  .Fuchsias,53  Gerani- 
ums,55 Ageratums,35  Cupheas,48  Petunias,72 
Heliotropes,60  etc.,  make  handsome  pot  plants 
for  fall  blooming  if  propagated15  now,  and  kept 
pinched  back87  for  eight  weeks ....  Plant  out 
Bouvardia,41  started  Dahlias,49  Coleus,47  also 
Tigridia,79  Amaryllis,37  Vallota,81  and  sow  Ri- 
cinus,76  Acroclinium,35  Rhodanthe,75  Ipomcea62 
seeds. .  .  .If  not  yet  done,  W.  F.  Fuchsias,55 
should  be  given  rest. 

May  2 '#-— Twenty '-second  Week. 
Trapreolums,79and  Heliotropes, 60  for  W.  F., 
may  be  propagated  ;  also  a  general  collection 
of  such  things  as  will  be  useful  for  winter  de- 
coration,20 including  plants  with  ornamental 
foliage,  and  for  Ferneries,21  also  Ivies,62  and 
the  freest  growing  plants  named  under  March  5 
....New  lawns  still  to  be  sown,8  should  be 
seeded  with  as  little  delay  as  possible ....  Any 
of  the  seeds  named  under  May  7-14,  etc., 

may  still  be  sown  in  the  O.  A Be  prepared 

to  destroy  Rose  Slugs,*1  if  any  appear — see  June 
1 8,  also  July  9. 

June  4 — Twenty -third  Week. 
Planting  of  Geraniums,^  Verbenas^  and  all 
started  beddings  plants  is  still  in  order .  .  .  .Set  out 
young  Tuberose  bulblets80.  .  .  .Callas43  should 
be  given  a  rest  of  sevei'al  months  when  done 
flowering.  ..  .Keep  Double  White  Primroses™ 
in  shade,  and  give  plenty  of  space. 

June  IT —  Twenty -fourth  Week. 
Pinch  back 14  87  Carnations,44  Bouvardia,41  and 


other  W.  F.  plants  that  require  it14 After 

all  plants  for  outdoors  have  been  moved  from 
the  Con.  it  should  be  thoroughly  cleared  up 
for  the  summer ....  Wash  empty  pots .... 
Watch  for  and  destroy  Chafers  31  on  Rose  bushes. 

June  18— Twenty-fifth  Week. 
Peg  down  Verbenas,81  and  other  trailing 
bedding  plants ....  See  '•'•Summer  Culture,"** 
"  Watering  Plants,"  etc.,u  "  Removal  of  Ma- 
tured Flowers"9* .  .  .  .Mow  the  lawn  frequently. 
Maintain  neatness  in  all  parts  of  the  grounds. 
.  . .  Water  hanging  baskets,^  vases, ^  pot  plants,^ 
etc. ,  abundantly. . . .  Syringe  and  use  water  freely 
in  the  Con.,  not  neglecting  Camellias.^  Prornde 
Sweet  Pea,'1'*  Morning  Glory, ,48  and  other  climb- 
ers, with  support,  as  needed. 

June  25 — Twenty -sixth  Week. 
Re-pot,  if  necessary,  Roses  and  other  W.  F. 
plants  named  and  alluded  to  under  May  21,  and 
keep  well  watered  and  plunged ....  Propaga- 
tion15 of  plants  named  and  alluded  to  under 
May  28,  may  still  go  on.  .  .  .As  strong  young 
shoots  are  formed  layering™  may  be  done. 

July  2 — Twenty-seventh  Week. 
Any  building  or  improvement  of  Conserva- 
tories which  is  contemplated,  also  repairing  of 
glass,  etc.,  should  be  done,  to  have  them  ready 

for  plants  in  Sept.    and   Oct Sweet  Alys- 

sum,36  Ten- Week  Stock,™  and  Mignonette,^ 
may  be  sown  for  W.  F. . .  . .  Candytuft,44  Mig- 
nonette,68 Phlox,73  Erisymum,52  may  be  sown  in 
O.  A.  for  succession. 

July  <? — Twenty-eighth  Week. 
Keep  edgings  clipped,   and  cut   the  edges  of 
grass  borders  occasionally ....  Allow  no  weeds  to 
grow  either  in  the  walks  or  beds. 

July  1 6 — Twenty -ninth  Week. 
Layering™  of  Carnations,^  Pinks, ^  Roses, ^ 
etc.,    should    receive    attention    where    suitable 
growth  is  afforded — see  June  n  and  18. 

July  23— Thirtieth  Week. 
Should  the  season  prove  dry,  Dahlias,49  Car- 
nations,44 newly  planted  trees,  etc.,  will  be 
benefited  by  mulching.  ..  .Plants  alluded  to 
under  May  28  may  still  be  propagated15. .  .  . 
Seeds  of  kinds  named  under  Aug.  13  and  20 
may  be  sown12  thus  early. 

July  30 — Thirty-first  Week. 
Pinch  and  use  the  knife  freely  on  monthly 
Roses  and  all  rapid  growing  plants,  see  "  Prun- 
ing,"31 83.  .  .  .  For  potting  soil,  see  April  16.  .  . . 
After  done  flowering  give  Pelargoniums 71  rest 
. .  .  .For  Rust  on  Roses, — see  page"®. 

August  6 — Thirty-second  Week. 
Callas43  may  be  started  to  grow ....  Keep 
flowering  Dahlias,  Gladiolus,  Lilies,  etc.,  tied 
to  stakes.  .  . .  The  re-potting  of  Oleanders,  etc., 
named  under  March  26,  is  seasonable,  after  they 
have  made  a  growth. .  .  .Carnations,  ^designed 
for  early  flowers  should  receive  their  last  head- 
ing back. 

August  13 — Thirty-third  Week. 
Winter-flowering  Fuchsias55  may  be  started. 
....  Propagation15   of    Geraniums    and    other 
plants  alluded  to  under  Sept.  10,  may  be  be- 


86  , 


THE  HOME  FLORIST. 


gun.  As  they  require  it  re-pot  W.  F.  plants 
named  and  alluded  to  under  May  21 ...  .Sow 
Seeds  of  Pansy,71  Hollyhock,61  Delphinum,50 
Dianthus,60  Aquilegia,38  Canterbury  Bells,44 
Digitalis,52  Lychnis,67  Myosotis,68  Perennial 
Poppy,75  Lobelia  Cardinalis,67  Antirrhinum,38 
— see  June  18,  also  July  n. 

August  20 — Thirty-fourth  Week. 
Sow,13  for  winter  and  spring  decoration, 
Calceolaria,42  Cineraria,47  Cobcea  Scandens,47 
Cyclamen,49  Primula,75  Smilax,69  Ten- Week 
Stock78. .  .  .For  drying  everlastings,  gather  be- 
fore fully  expanded,  tie  in  small  bunches,  and 
hang  in  the  shade.  .  .  .In  gathering  seed,  save 
that  only  from  the  best  /lowers. 

August  27— Thirty-fifth  Week. 

Provide  pots,  potting  soil,  fuel,  etc Lili- 

um  Candidum65  may  now  be  reset ....  Layer- 
ing™ may  still  be  kept  up. 

September  j — Thirty-sixth  Week. 
Give  Fuchsias53  rest  as  they  cease  to  flower. 
....  Remove    runners,    and  cut  back  W.    F. 
Violets81 — see  July  2. 

September  10 — Thirty -seventh  Week. 

Carnations44  for  W.  F. ,  also  Tuberoses80  not 
yet  done  flowering,  may  be  taken  up  and  pot- 
ted ....  Propagation™  of  a  general  stock  of  tender 
plants  should  be  engaged  in,  which  are  to  be  in- 
creased during  the  fall  and  winter  for  spring 
and  later  use.  Those  named  under  Oct.  I 
may  be  deferred  until  then ....  Repot  such 
W.  F.  plants  named  and  alluded  to  under  May 
21  as  require  it. 

September  17 — Thirty-eighth  Week. 

Hardy  Bulbs  named  under  October  8  may  be 
planted  in  the  O.  A.14  or  started  for  forcing21 
.  .  .  .Be  on  your  guard  against  frosts,  and  pro- 
tect for  a  week  or  tiuo  longer  or  take  in,  all  W.  F, 
plants,  for  the  window  or  conservatory.  Vases, 
hanging  baskets,  and  the  showy  pot  plants 
named  under  May  21,  may  be  left  out  longer 
by  carefully  protecting  in  cool  and  frosty  nights. 

September  24 — Thirty -ninth  Week. 

See  "Treatment  of  Plants  designed  for  W. 
F.,"14  also  Roses32. .  .Pelargoniums71  may  be 
cut  back  and  started  into  growth.  Give  cut- 
tings™ close  attention  daily,  and  see  ''''Keep 
watch  of  seed-beds,"  etc.,  April  16. .  .  .  A  little 
fire  heat  may  be  needed  on  cool,  frosty  nights 
— see  Oct.  15. 

October  i — Fortietn  Week. 
Ferneries21  for  winter  adornment  may  be 
planted. ..  .Petunias,72  Centaureas,45  Carna- 
tions,44 Pinks,74  can  be  propagated  better  now 
than  earlier  ;  Verbenas81  strike  well  yet .... 
Chrysanthemum^  may  be  stimulated  with  li- 
quid manure^ .  .  .  .Pot  cuttings,™  soon  as  they 
are  rooted;  thin  out,  transplant  or  pot  any  seed- 
lings which  may  require  it .  .  .  .Sow,  for  early 
plants  next  year,  Clarkia,47  Calliopsis,43  Can- 
dytuft,44 Erysimum,52  Mignonette,68  Nemo- 
phila,7(\Perennial  and  Sweet  Pea,79  Larkspur.50 

October  8 — Forty-first  Week. 
Seasonable  time  for  planting  in  the  O.  A.,14 
or  starting  in  pots,21  etc.,  for  forcing,  the  hardy 


bulbs  of  Hyacinth,61  Tulip,79  Crocus,49  Nar- 
cissus,69 Jonquil, 69  Lilium  Longiflorum,65Iris,  62 

Crown   Imperial,48  Snowdrop,55  etc After 

sharp  frosts,  take  up,  dry  and  store  away  for 
winter,  Canna,44  Caladium,42  Dahlia,49  Ama- 
ryllis,37 Gladiolus,59  Tigridia,7*  and  Tuberose,80 
bulbs,  etc Commence  drying  off  Vallota.81 

October  15 — Forty-second  Week. 
Give  plants  in  the  Con.,  W.,  and  the  C.  P., 
an  abundance  of  atr31  24  daily  as  long  as  the 
weather  will  admit,  and  also  during  winter . .  .  . 
By  no  chance  allow  a  higher  temperature™  24  to 
exist  at  night  than  would  be  suitable  in  the  day- 
time, neither  strive  to  keep  as  high  a  degree  in 
cloudy  weather  as  in  clear;  never  stibject  plants 
of  any  kind,  and  especially  Roses,  to  strong 
drafts  of  air  ;  open  ventilators  in  the  Con.  on 
the  side  away  from  the  wind,  in  cold  weather. 
....  Secure  Lemon  Verbena  36  plants ....  Haul 
manure,  sand,  etc.,  under  shelter  for  winter 
use. .  .  See  " Taking  up  Plants  in  the  Fall"  15 
. .  .  .On  Insects,  Watering,  etc. — see  Dec.  17. 

October  22 — Forty-third  Week. 
Take  up  Feverfews,53  Penstemons,72  Veroni- 
cas,81 for  stock  plants.  .  .  .Oleanders  and  other 
hard  wooded  plants  named  under  March  26, 
may  be  placed  in  winter  quarters ....  Water 
Callas  43  abundantly. 

October  29 — Forty-fourth  Week. 
Sweet  Alyssum,36  Mignonette,68  Ten- week 
Stock,78  Maurandia,18  Browalia,41  etc.,  may 
be  sown  for  winter  and  spring  decoration .... 
Young  plants  of  Carnation,  Chrysanthemum, 
Sterna,  Eupatorium,  Pink,  Violet,  that  are 
too  small  for  flowering,  may  be  kept  safely 
during  winter  at  a  night  temperature  of  40° 
to  45° . .  .  .  Roses,25  Deutzias,60  Dicentras,51  Lily 
of  the.  Valley,66  Pinks,74  Daisies,49  Violets,81 
Astilbe  Japonica,39  for  winter  and  spring 
forcing,  may  be  taken  up,  potted,  and  stored 
in  the  C.  P.  or  cellar .  .  .  .In  taking  them  in 
from  the  C.  P.,  etc.,  during  winter,  never 
commence  forcing  too  rapidly ;  the  same  with 
hardy  bulbs. 

November  5 — Forty-fifth  Week. 
Hardy  bulbs  named  under  Oct.  8,  may  be 
planted  in  the  O.  A.  as  long  as  the  ground 
remains  open,  and  be  started  for  forcing  two 
months  yet .  .  .  .Fall  struck  cuttings  and  seedling 
plants  in  small  pots  should  be  shifted  as  re- 
quired*. ...  Be  very  particular  not  to  allow  the 
seedlings  named  under  Aug.  20  to  become 
root-bound. 

November  12 — Forty-sixth  Week. 
At  this  season  the  grounds  should  be  cleaned 
up  generally;  vases,  etc.,  secured;  rubbish  and 
dead  plants  removed;  manure  applied;  beds 

worked  over,12  etc Earliest  started  bulbs,  for 

forcing,  named  under  Oct.  8,  may  be  brought  in. 
....  Care  of  Ferneries,  see  page,  ^  and  Dec.  24. 

November  19 — Forty-seventh  Week. 

Protect,  by  laying  down  or  otherwise, 
Roses,31  shrubs,  etc.,  before  winter  sets  in 
severely;  mulch  the  roots  for  a  good  distance 
around. . .  .For  airing,  temperature,  etc.,  of  the 


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